Jaricot M, Malhiac C, Chao C, Merlaud F, Grisel M, Savary G. Understanding of the residual odor of fatty esters used as emollient in cosmetic products.
Int J Cosmet Sci 2022;
44:685-702. [PMID:
35977723 DOI:
10.1111/ics.12811]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/16/2022] [Accepted: 08/06/2022] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE
Fatty esters are known for their versatility, but in addition to their performance as emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers, or dispersing agents, they have to meet more and more criteria to be used in cosmetic products. Thus, their olfactory characteristics are expected to be as neutral as possible. However, despite a step of deodorization during the synthesis of fatty esters, a residual odor is currently still perceived at the end of the process.
METHODS
In this study, a specific analytical methodology combining sensory with chemical analyses was implemented to characterize the residual odor of two fatty esters and to determine its origin. Ethyl oleate and isononyl isononanoate were selected and underwent a sensory analysis to evaluate their odor intensity and odor profile. Volatile compounds released by these esters were assessed by GC-MS after Solid-Phase MicroExtraction (SPME) and amongst them, odor-active compounds were brought into light using Gas Chromatography coupled with Mass Spectrometry and Olfactometry (GC-MS-O) analyses.
RESULTS
On the isononyl isononanoate chromatogram, only peaks corresponding to the different isomeric ester forms were evidenced while around 70 volatile compounds were detected in the ethyl oleate headspace, including esters, aldehydes, hydrocarbons, and ketones. Isononyl alcohol used as raw material in the synthesis was proven to be responsible for isononyl isononanoate final odor. As for ethyl oleate, of the 23 odor-active compounds perceived, 14 have been identified; they are mainly esters and saturated as well as unsaturated aldehydes.
CONCLUSION
A novel measurement approach was presented to analyze trace odors of fatty esters and the results will be useful to control their deodorization by targeting appropriate strategies with the aim either to avoid the formation or remove the identified odorant compounds. This study may be further expanded by investigating the impact of deodorization on odor-active compounds for a complete understanding of their contribution to the fatty ester global odor.
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