Production of mannosylerythritol lipids and their application in cosmetics

Potential anti-aging applications of microbial-derived surfactantsin cosmetic formulations

The skin aging process is a complex interaction of genetic, epigenetic, and environmental factors, such as chemical pollution and UV radiation. There is growing evidence that biosurfactants, especially those of microbial origin, have distinct age-supportive effects through different mechanisms, such as stimulation of fibroblast growth, high antioxidant capacities, and favorable anti-inflammatory properties. With a growing financial contribution of more than 15 m€per year, microbial surfactants (MSs) display unique biological effects on the skin including improved cell mobility, better nutrient access, and facilitated cellular growth under harsh conditions. Their biodegradable nature, unusual surface activity, good safety profile and tolerance to high temperature and pH variations widen their potential spectrum in biomedical and pharmaceutical applications. MSs typically have lower critical micelle concentration (CMC) levels than chemical surfactants enhancing their effectiveness. As natural surfactants, MSs are considered possible "green" alternatives to synthetic surfactants with better biodegradability, sustainability, and beneficial functional properties. This review therefore aims to explore the potential impacts of MSs as anti-aging ingredients.

Designed Mannosylerythritol Lipid Analogues Exhibiting Both Selective Cytotoxicity Against Human Skin Cancer Cells and Recovery Effects on Damaged Skin Cells

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are a class of amphipathic molecules bearing a hydrophilic 4-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-D-erythritol skeleton. Here, we designed and synthesized four kinds of MEL analogues R-MEL-A ([2R,3S]-erythritol type), S-mannosylthreitol lipid (MTL)-A ([2S,3S]-threitol type), R-MTL-A ([2R,3R]-threitol type), and α-S-MEL-A ([2S,3R]-erythritol type) using our previously reported boron-mediated aglycon delivery (BMAD) method and a neighboring group assisted glycosylation method. The selective cytotoxicity of the target compounds against cancer cells was evaluated, with R-MTL-A showing the highest selective cytotoxicity against human skin squamous carcinoma HSC-5 cells. Our findings suggest that R-MTL-A induces necrosis-like cell death against HSC-5 cells by decreasing cell membrane fluidity. R-MTL-A also exhibits an efficient recovery effect on damaged skin cells, indicating that R-MTL-A has potential as a lead compound for new cosmeceuticals with both cancer cell-selective toxicity and recovery effects on damaged skin cells.

Glycolipids biosurfactants production using low-cost substrates for environmental remediation: progress, challenges, and future prospects

The production of renewable materials from alternative sources is becoming increasingly important to reduce the detrimental environmental effects of their non-renewable counterparts and natural resources, while making them more economical and sustainable. Chemical surfactants, which are highly toxic and non-biodegradable, are used in a wide range of industrial and environmental applications harming humans, animals, plants, and other entities. Chemical surfactants can be substituted with biosurfactants (BS), which are produced by microorganisms like bacteria, fungi, and yeast. They have excellent emulsifying, foaming, and dispersing properties, as well as excellent biodegradability, lower toxicity, and the ability to remain stable under severe conditions, making them useful for a variety of industrial and environmental applications. Despite these advantages, BS derived from conventional resources and precursors (such as edible oils and carbohydrates) are expensive, limiting large-scale production of BS. In addition, the use of unconventional substrates such as agro-industrial wastes lowers the BS productivity and drives up production costs. However, overcoming the barriers to commercial-scale production is critical to the widespread adoption of these products. Overcoming these challenges would not only promote the use of environmentally friendly surfactants but also contribute to sustainable waste management and reduce dependence on non-renewable resources. This study explores the efficient use of wastes and other low-cost substrates to produce glycolipids BS, identifies efficient substrates for commercial production, and recommends strategies to improve productivity and use BS in environmental remediation.

New insights into the antibiofilm activity and mechanism of Mannosylerythritol Lipid-A against Listeria monocytogenes EGD-e

Listeria monocytogenes is one of the leading causative agents of foodborne disease outbreaks worldwide. Herein, the antibiofilm effect and mechanism of Mannosylerythritol Lipid-A against L. monocytogenes EGD-e is reported for the first time. MEL-A effectively attenuated biofilm formation while reducing the viability and motility of bacteria within the biofilm in the early stage, and influenced bacterial adhesion by affecting the secretion of extracellular polysaccharides and eDNA. RT-qPCR revealed that MEL-A significantly suppressed the expression of genes involved in flagellar movement and virulence. Untargeted LC-MS metabolomics indicated that MEL-A affected the fluidity and permeability of cell membranes by significantly upregulating unsaturated fatty acids, lipids and glycoside metabolites, and affected protein biosynthesis, nucleotide metabolism and DNA synthesis and repair by significantly downregulating amino acid metabolism and nucleic acid metabolism. These pathways may constitute the key targets of biofilm formation inhibition by MEL-A. Furthermore, MEL-A showed good removal effects on mature biofilms under different temperatures, different materials and milk. Our data indicated that MEL-A could be used as a novel antibiofilm agent to improve food safety. Our study provides new insights into the possible inhibitory mechanism of MEL-A and the response of L. monocytogenes EGD-e to MEL-A.

A novel glycoglycerolipid from Holotrichia diomphalia Bates: Structure characteristics and protective effect against DNA damage

A lipidated polysaccharide, HDPS-2II, was isolated from the dried larva of Holotrichia diomphalia, which is used in traditional Chinese medicine. The molecular weight of HDPS-2II was 5.9 kDa, which contained a polysaccharide backbone of →4)-β-Manp-(1 → 4,6)-β-Manp-(1 → [6)-α-Glcp-(1]n → 6)-α-Glcp→ with the side chain α-Glcp-(6 → 1)-α-Glcp-(6 → linked to the C-4 of β-1,4,6-Manp and four types of lipid chains including 4-(4-methyl-2-(methylamino)pentanamido)pentanoic acid, 5-(3-(tert-butyl)phenoxy)hexan-2-ol, N-(3-methyl-5-oxopentan-2-yl)palmitamide, and N-(5-amino-3-methyl-5-oxopentan-2-yl)stearamide. The lipid chains were linked to C-1 of terminal α-1,6-Glcp in carbohydrate chain through diacyl-glycerol. HDPS-2II exhibited DNA protective effects and antioxidative activity on H2O2- or adriamycin (ADM)-induced Chinese hamster lung cells. Furthermore, HDPS-2II significantly ameliorated chromosome aberrations and the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), reduced γ-H2AX signaling and the expressions of NADPH oxidase (NOX)2, NOX4, P22phox, and P47phox in ADM-induced cardiomyocytes. Mechanistically, HDPS-2II suppressed ADM-induced up-regulation of NOX2 and NOX4 in cardiomyocytes, but not in NOX2 or NOX4 knocked-down cardiomyocytes, indicating that HDPS-2II could relieve intracellular DNA damage by regulating NOX2/NOX4 signaling. These findings demonstrate that HDPS-2II is a new potential DNA protective agent.

Promising Application, Efficient Production, and Genetic Basis of Mannosylerythritol Lipids

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are a class of glycolipids that have been receiving increasing attention in recent years due to their diverse biological activities. MELs are produced by certain fungi and display a range of bioactivities, making them attractive candidates for various applications in medicine, agriculture, and biotechnology. Despite their remarkable qualities, industrial-scale production of MELs remains a challenge for fungal strains. Excellent fungal strains and fermentation processes are essential for the efficient production of MELs, so efforts have been made to improve the fermentation yield by screening high-yielding strains, optimizing fermentation conditions, and improving product purification processes. The availability of the genome sequence is pivotal for elucidating the genetic basis of fungal MEL biosynthesis. This review aims to shed light on the applications of MELs and provide insights into the genetic basis for efficient MEL production. Additionally, this review offers new perspectives on optimizing MEL production, contributing to the advancement of sustainable biosurfactant technologies.

Advances in the production of biosurfactants as green ingredients in home and personal care products

Home and personal care industry is currently witnessing a growing demand for sustainable and eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic surfactants. This increase is fueled by concerns over the delayed degradation and environmental impact of the latter. To this, biosurfactants possess important properties such as biodegradability, low toxicity, and renewable sourcing. These qualities position them as compelling replacements of traditional synthetic surfactants. Their diverse attributes including emulsification, antimicrobial efficacy, surface tension reduction, and foaming capability, make them well-suited choices for home and personal care products. Biosurfactants can be produced through several inexpensive and renewable sources which contributes to their commercialization potential. This article discusses various microbial derived biosurfactants including rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, mannosyl-erythritol lipids, trehalolipids and lipopeptides, unraveling and comparing their distinctive roles and advantages in the home and personal care industry. It also focuses on the recent patent innovations in the production of biosurfactants which have aimed at improving their economic viability and performance attributes. Finally, the article sheds light on the challenges and future trajectories for better integration of these sustainable biosurfactants into mainstream consumer products.

DoE-based medium optimization for improved biosurfactant production with Aureobasidium pullulans

Polyol lipids (a.k.a. liamocins) produced by the polyextremotolerant, yeast-like fungus Aureobasidium pullulans are amphiphilic molecules with high potential to serve as biosurfactants. So far, cultivations of A. pullulans have been performed in media with complex components, which complicates further process optimization due to their undefined composition. In this study, we developed and optimized a minimal medium, focusing on biosurfactant production. Firstly, we replaced yeast extract and peptone in the best-performing polyol lipid production medium to date with a vitamin solution, a trace-element solution, and a nitrogen source. We employed a design of experiments approach with a factor screening using a two-level-factorial design, followed by a central composite design. The polyol lipid titer was increased by 56% to 48 g L-1, and the space-time yield from 0.13 to 0.20 g L-1 h-1 in microtiter plate cultivations. This was followed by a successful transfer to a 1 L bioreactor, reaching a polyol lipid concentration of 41 g L-1. The final minimal medium allows the investigation of alternative carbon sources and the metabolic pathways involved, to pinpoint targets for genetic modifications. The results are discussed in the context of the industrial applicability of this robust and versatile fungus.

A Novel Biosurfactant-Based Oil Spill Response Dispersant for Efficient Application under Temperate and Arctic Conditions

Synthetic oil spill dispersants have become essential in offshore oil spill response strategies. However, their use raises significant concerns regarding toxicity to phyto- and zooplankton and other marine organisms, especially in isolated and vulnerable areas such as the Arctic and shorelines. Sustainable alternatives may be developed by replacing the major active components of commercial dispersants with their natural counterparts. During this study, interfacial properties of different types of glycolipid-based biosurfactants (rhamnolipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and trehalose lipids) were explored in a crude oil-seawater system. The best-performing biosurfactant was further mixed with different nontoxic components of Corexit 9500A, and the interfacial properties of the most promising dispersant blend were further explored with various types of crude oils, weathered oil, bunker, and diesel fuel in natural seawater. Our findings indicate that the most efficient dispersant formulation was achieved when mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) were mixed with Tween 80 (T). The MELs-T dispersant blend significantly reduced the interfacial tension (IFT) of various crude oils in seawater with results comparable to those obtained with Corexit 9500A. Importantly, no leaching or desorption of MELs-T components from the crude oil-water interface was observed. Furthermore, for weathered and more viscous asphaltenic bunker fuel oil, IFT results with the MELs-T dispersant blend surpassed those obtained with Corexit 9500A. This dispersant blend also demonstrated effectiveness at different dosages (dispersant-to-oil ratio (DOR)) and under various temperature conditions. The efficacy of the MELs-T dispersant was further confirmed by standard baffled flask tests (BFTs) and Mackay-Nadeau-Steelman (MNS) tests. Overall, our study provides promising data for the development of effective biobased dispersants, particularly in the context of petroleum exploitation in subsea resources and transportation in the Arctic.

Substrates of Opposite Polarities and Downstream Processing for Efficient Production of the Biosurfactant Mannosylerythritol Lipids from Moesziomyces spp

Biosurfactants can replace fossil-driven surfactants with positive environmental impacts, owing to their low eco-toxicity and high biodegradability. However, their large-scale production and application are restricted by high production costs. Such costs can be reduced using renewable raw materials and facilitated downstream processing. Here, a novel strategy for mannosylerythritol lipid (MEL) production explores the combination of hydrophilic and hydrophobic carbon sources sideways with a novel downstream processing strategy, based on nanofiltration technology. Co-substrate MEL production by Moesziomyces antarcticus was threefold higher than using D-glucose with low levels of residual lipids. The use of waste frying oil instead of soybean oil (SBO) in co-substrate strategy resulted in similar MEL production. Moesziomyces antarcticus cultivations, using 3.9 M of total carbon in substrates, yields 7.3, 18.1, and 20.1 g/L of MEL, and 2.1, 10.0, and 5.1 g/L of residual lipids, for D-glucose, SBO, and a combination of D-Glucose and SBO, respectively. Such approach makes it possible to reduce the amount of oil used, offset by the equivalent molar increase in D-glucose, improving sustainability and decreasing residual unconsumed oil substrates, facilitating downstream processing. Moesziomyces spp. also produces lipases that broken down the oil and, thus, residual unconsumed oils are in the form of free fatty-acids or monoacylglycerol, which are smaller molecules than MEL. Therefore, nanofiltration of ethyl acetate extracts from co-substrate-based culture broths allows to improve MEL purity (ratio of MEL per total MEL and residual lipids) from 66 to 93% using 3-diavolumes.

Reviewing the Source, Physiological Characteristics, and Aroma Production Mechanisms of Aroma-Producing Yeasts

Flavor is an essential element of food quality. Flavor can be improved by adding flavoring substances or via microbial fermentation to impart aroma. Aroma-producing yeasts are a group of microorganisms that can produce aroma compounds, providing a strong aroma to foods and thus playing a great role in the modern fermentation industry. The physiological characteristics of aroma-producing yeast, including alcohol tolerance, acid tolerance, and salt tolerance, are introduced in this article, beginning with their origins and biological properties. The main mechanism of aroma-producing yeast is then analyzed based on its physiological roles in the fermentation process. Functional enzymes such as proteases, lipases, and glycosidase are released by yeast during the fermentation process. Sugars, fats, and proteins in the environment can be degraded by these enzymes via pathways such as glycolysis, methoxylation, the Ehrlich pathway, and esterification, resulting in the production of various aromatic esters (such as ethyl acetate and ethyl caproate), alcohols (such as phenethyl alcohol), and terpenes (such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, and squalene). Furthermore, yeast cells can serve as cell synthesis factories, wherein specific synthesis pathways can be introduced into cells using synthetic biology techniques to achieve high-throughput production. In addition, the applications of aroma yeast in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries are summarized, and the future development trends of aroma yeasts are discussed to provide a theoretical basis for their application in the food fermentation industry.

Production of Mannosylerythritol Lipids Using Oils from Oleaginous Microalgae: Two Sequential Microorganism Culture Approach

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are biosurfactants with excellent biochemical properties and a wide range of potential applications. However, most of the studies focusing on MELs high titre production have been relying in the use of vegetable oils with impact on the sustainability and process economy. Herein, we report for the first time MELs production using oils produced from microalgae. The bio-oil was extracted from Neochloris oleoabundans and evaluated for their use as sole carbon source or in a co-substrate strategy, using as an additional carbon source D-glucose, on Moesziomyces spp. cultures to support cell growth and induce the production of MELs. Both Moesziomyces antarcticus and M. aphidis were able to grow and produce MELs using algae-derived bio-oils as a carbon source. Using a medium containing as carbon sources 40 g/L of D-glucose and 20 g/L of bio-oils, Moesziomyces antarcticus and M. aphidis produced 12.47 ± 0.28 and 5.72 ± 2.32 g/L of MELs, respectively. Interestingly, there are no significant differences in productivity when using oils from microalgae or vegetable oils as carbon sources. The MELs productivities achieved were 1.78 ± 0.04 and 1.99 ± 0.12 g/L/h, respectively, for M. antarcticus fed with algae-derived or vegetable oils. These results open new perspectives for the production of MELs in systems combining different microorganisms.

Non-traditional oils with water-soluble substrate as cell growth booster for the production of mannosylerythritol lipids by Pseudozyma antarctica (ATCC 32657) with their antimicrobial activity

Among glycolipids, mannosylerythritol lipids (MEL), are mild and environmentally friendly surfactants used in various industrial applications. MELs are produced by biofermentation using non-traditional oils with various water-soluble carbon sources as cell growth booster. This substrate affects the production yield and cost of MEL. In this research work, the non-traditional oils jatropha oil, karanja oil and neem oil were used as new substrates along with glucose, glycerol and honey as new water-soluble substrates. All these oils are new feedstocks for the production of MEL using Pseudozyma antarctica (ATCC 32657). Jatropha oil, karanja oil and neem oil with honey as substrates resulted in higher MEL yields of (8.07, 7.75, and 1.86) g/L and better cell growth of (8.07, 7.75, and 1.86) g/L, respectively, than non-traditional oils with glucose and glycerol as substrates. Neem oil gave a lower yield of MEL (1.54 g/L) as well as cell growth (6.06 g/L) compared to jatropha oil and karanja oil (7.03 and 6.17) g/L, respectively. Crude MEL from the fermentation broth was detected by thin-layer chromatography (TLC), Fourier transform infrared spectrommetry (FT-IR), high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (1H NMR). Purified MEL has been used as an antimicrobial agent in cosmetic products associated with gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria and fungi.

Detection and diversity of the mannosylerythritol lipid (MEL) gene cluster and lipase A and B genes of Moesziomyces antarcticus isolated from terrestrial sites chronically contaminated with crude oil in Trinidad

BACKGROUND

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) belong to the class of glycolipid biosurfactants and are produced by members of the Ustilago and Moesziomyces genera. Production of MELs is regulated by a biosynthetic gene cluster (MEL BGC). Extracellular lipase activity is also associated with MEL production. Most microbial glycolipid-producers are isolated from oil-contaminated environments. MEL-producing yeast that are capable of metabolizing crude oil are understudied, and there is very limited data on indigenous strains from tropical climates. Analysis of the MEL BGC and lipase genes in Trinidad M. antarcticus strains, using a gene-targeted approach, revealed a correlation between their intrinsic capability to degrade crude oil and their adaptation to survive in a chronically polluted terrestrial environment.

RESULTS

M. antarcticus was isolated from naturally-occurring crude oil seeps and an asphaltic mud volcano in Trinidad; these are habitats that have not been previously reported for this species. Genus identification was confirmed by the large-subunit (LSU) and the small-subunit (SSU) sequence comparisons and species identification was confirmed by ITS sequence comparisons and phylogenetic inference. The essential genes (Emt1, Mac1, Mac2, Mmf1) of the MEL BGC were detected with gene-specific primers. Emt1p, Mac1p and Mmf1p sequence analyses confirmed that the Trinidad strains harboured novel synonymous amino acid (aa) substitutions and structural comparisons revealed different regions of disorder, specifically for the Emt1p sequence. Functionality of each protein sequence was confirmed through motif mining and mutation prediction. Phylogenetic relatedness was inferred for Emt1p, Mac1p and Mmf1p sequences. The Trinidad strains clustered with other M. antarcticus sequences, however, the representative Trinidad M. antarcticus sequences consistently formed a separate, highly supported branch for each protein. Similar phylogenetic placement was indicated for LipA and LipB nucleotide and protein sequences. The Trinidad strains also demonstrated lipolytic activity in culture, with an ability to utilize different carbon sources. Comparative evolution of MEL BGC and LipA gene suggested early and late duplication events, depending on the gene, followed by a number of speciation events within Ustilaginaceae. M. antarcticus and M. aphidis were separated from all other members of Ustilaginaceae and two gene homologues were detected, one for each species.

CONCLUSIONS

Sequence analyses was based on a novel gene-targeted approach to analyze the essential genes of the MEL BGC and LipA and LipB genes of M. antarcticus strains from Trinidad. The findings indicated that these strains accumulated nucleotide mutations to a threshold level that did not affect the function of specific proteins encoded by the MEL BGC and LipA and LipB genes. The biosurfactant and lipase enzymes secreted by these Trinidad M. antarcticus strains facilitated their survival in oil-contaminated terrestrial environments. These findings suggest that the Trinidad strains should be explored as promising candidates for the commercial production of MEL biosurfactants and lipase enzymes.

Glycolipid Biosurfactants, Mannosylerythritol Lipids: Distinctive Interfacial Properties and Applications in Cosmetic and Personal Care Products

Biosurfactants produced by a variety of microorganisms show attractive properties (e.g., higher surface activity and biodegradability, lower toxicity, and environmental compatibility) compared to chemically synthesized counterparts. The numerous advantages of biosurfactants have prompted their application to not only the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries, but agriculture and environmental protection disciplines as well. Among different types of biosurfactants, glycolipids are the most practically useful, due to their high product titers from renewable resources and versatile interfacial and biochemical properties. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are characteristic glycolipid biosurfactants that are produced by different yeast strains of the genus Pseudozyma. MELs exhibit different lyotropic liquid crystalline phases, such as sponge (L₃), reverse bicontinuous cubic (V₂), or lamellar (L_α) phases; and they have high levels of surface activity at very low concentrations. MELs also show excellent moisturizing effects on human skin and hair, with comparable performance to natural ceramides. Today, MELs are commercially produced by a Japanese company and their use is rapidly expanding around the world. In this review, we will briefly describe the current R&D status of glycolipid biosurfactants, with a focus on the interfacial properties of MELs and their applications in cosmetic and personal care products.

Biosurfactant is a powerful tool for the bioremediation of heavy metals from contaminated soils

Heavy metal toxicity has become a pressing ecological problem that affects the ecosystems through bioaccumulation, representing a serious public health hazard. Many conventional strategies have been developed and applied to decontaminate and restore metal-contaminated areas. However, these conventional approaches are not very suitable and environmentally safe for heavy metal remediation because of their high operational costs, high energy requirements, post-waste disposal problems, and secondary pollutant generation. Thus, biosurfactant-based bioremediation of heavy metals is a sustainable and promising approach because of its biodegradation capability, economic effectiveness, and ecofriendly nature. Pseudomonas sp., Bacillus sp., Citrobacter freundii, and Candida tropicalis have been isolated as potential sources of biosurfactants and produce compounds such as surfactin, rhamnolipids, and sophorolipids. Owing to the severity of heavy metal pollution in certain parts of the environment, biosurfactants have garnered great interest and attention as an emerging multi-functional technology of the new century for successful removal of heavy metal pollutants. The present study describes the role of biosurfactants in the bioremediation of heavy metals from contaminated environments. Moreover, the interaction mechanism underlying biosurfactant-metal complexation and metal remediation are discussed. Based on the review of the literature, further research is warranted to elucidate the mechanistic roles and explore the structural characterization and gene regulation of biosurfactants to improve their productivity and expand their applicability in bioremediation.

Glycolipid Biosurfactant Production from Waste Cooking Oils by Yeast: Review of Substrates, Producers and Products

Biosurfactants are a microbially synthesized alternative to synthetic surfactants, one of the most important bulk chemicals. Some yeast species are proven to be exceptional biosurfactant producers, while others are emerging producers. A set of factors affects the type, amount, and properties of the biosurfactant produced, as well as the environmental impact and costs of biosurfactant’s production. Exploring waste cooking oil as a substrate for biosurfactants’ production serves as an effective cost-cutting strategy, yet it has some limitations. This review explores the existing knowledge on utilizing waste cooking oil as a feedstock to produce glycolipid biosurfactants by yeast. The review focuses specifically on the differences created by using raw cooking oil or waste cooking oil as the substrate on the ability of various yeast species to synthesize sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, mannosylerythritol lipids, and other glycolipids and the substrate’s impact on the composition, properties, and limitations in the application of biosurfactants.

Apoptosis Induction in Murine Melanoma (B16F10) Cells by Mannosylerythritol Lipids-B; a Glycolipid Biosurfactant with Antitumoral Activities

Mannosylerythritol lipids have drawn attention to cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries due to their non-toxicity and excellent biological interactions with human skin, particularly with the deepest epidermal layer. Lamellar liquid crystal structure, formed by MEL-B, is an interesting feature due to its similarity to the stratum corneum molecular arrangement and cell signaling events involved in the deregulation of the cancerous cell membrane. Thus, this work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity of commercial mannosylerythritol lipids-B in murine melanoma, fibroblast, and human erythrocytes cells. Cytotoxic effect was more pronounced on the tumor cells from 20 µg/mL, reducing cell viability by 65%, whereas fibroblast and human erythrocytes cells were more resistant to glycolipid treatment. Fluorescence microscopy and flow cytometer proved that mannosylerythritol lipids-B is an apoptosis inducer in tumor cells related to reactive oxygen species generation.

Synthetic and Bio-Derived Surfactants Versus Microbial Biosurfactants in the Cosmetic Industry: An Overview

This article includes an updated review of the classification, uses and side effects of surfactants for their application in the cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries. Based on their origin and composition, surfactants can be divided into three different categories: (i) synthetic surfactants; (ii) bio-based surfactants; and (iii) microbial biosurfactants. The first group is the most widespread and cost-effective. It is composed of surfactants, which are synthetically produced, using non-renewable sources, with a final structure that is different from the natural components of living cells. The second category comprises surfactants of intermediate biocompatibility, usually produced by chemical synthesis but integrating fats, sugars or amino acids obtained from renewable sources into their structure. Finally, the third group of surfactants, designated as microbial biosurfactants, are considered the most biocompatible and eco-friendly, as they are produced by living cells, mostly bacteria and yeasts, without the intermediation of organic synthesis. Based on the information included in this review it would be interesting for cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries to consider microbial biosurfactants as a group apart from surfactants, needing specific regulations, as they are less toxic and more biocompatible than chemical surfactants having formulations that are more biocompatible and greener.

Biosurfactants and Their Applications in the Oil and Gas Industry: Current State of Knowledge and Future Perspectives

Surfactants are a group of amphiphilic chemical compounds (i.e., having both hydrophobic and hydrophilic domains) that form an indispensable component in almost every sector of modern industry. Their significance is evidenced from the enormous volumes that are used and wide diversity of applications they are used in, ranging from food and beverage, agriculture, public health, healthcare/medicine, textiles, and bioremediation. A major drive in recent decades has been toward the discovery of surfactants from biological/natural sources-namely bio-surfactants-as most surfactants that are used today for industrial applications are synthetically-manufactured via organo-chemical synthesis using petrochemicals as precursors. This is problematic, not only because they are derived from non-renewable resources, but also because of their environmental incompatibility and potential toxicological effects to humans and other organisms. This is timely as one of today's key challenges is to reduce our reliance on fossil fuels (oil, coal, gas) and to move toward using renewable and sustainable sources. Considering the enormous genetic diversity that microorganisms possess, they offer considerable promise in producing novel types of biosurfactants for replacing those that are produced from organo-chemical synthesis, and the marine environment offers enormous potential in this respect. In this review, we begin with an overview of the different types of microbial-produced biosurfactants and their applications. The remainder of this review discusses the current state of knowledge and trends in the usage of biosurfactants by the Oil and Gas industry for enhancing oil recovery from exhausted oil fields and as dispersants for combatting oil spills.

Engineering Ustilago maydis for production of tailor-made mannosylerythritol lipids

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are surface active glycolipids secreted by various fungi. MELs can be used as biosurfactants and are a biodegradable resource for the production of detergents or pharmaceuticals. Different fungal species synthesize a unique mixture of MELs differing in acetyl- and acyl-groups attached to the sugar moiety. Here, we report the construction of a toolbox for production of glycolipids with predictable fatty acid side chains in the basidiomycete Ustilago maydis. Genes coding for acyl-transferases involved in MEL production (Mac1 and Mac2) from different fungal species were combined to obtain altered MEL variants with distinct physical properties and altered antimicrobial activity. We also demonstrate that a U. maydis paralog of the acyltransferase Mac2 with a different substrate specificity can be employed for the biosynthesis of modified MEL variants. In summary, our data showcase how the fungal repertoire of Mac enzymes can be used to engineer tailor-made MELs according to specific biotechnological or pharmaceutical requirements.

•

Biosynthetic enzymes for MELs from distinct fungal species retain their substrate specificity if expressed in U. maydis.

•

The combination of acyltransferases from different fungi leads to the production of unique MEL variants.

•

Novel MELs show altered physical properties and antimicrobial activity.

Effect of synthetic surfactants on the environment and the potential for substitution by biosurfactants

The environmental impacts of the use of synthetic surfactants are discussed in this work such as their high levels of toxicity and low biodegradability. These materials destroy aquatic microbial populations, damage fish and other aquatic life, and reduce photochemical energy conversion efficiency of plants as well as adversely affecting waste-water treatment processes. With global usage of surfactants being over 15 million tonnes annually, and an estimated 60% of surfactant ending up in the aquatic environment, there is an urgent need for alternatives with lower adverse environmental effects; this review explores biosurfactants as potential alternatives. The sources and natural function of biosurfactants are presented, together with their advantages compared with their synthetic counterparts, including their low toxicity and biodegradability. Their comparable effectiveness as surfactants has been demonstrated by surface tension reduction, achieved at much lower critical micelle concentrations that those of synthetic surfactants. The limitations and challenges for the use of biosurfactants are discussed, particularly low production yields; such limitations must be addressed before wide range industrial use of biosurfactants can be achieved. Although there has been focus on achieving greater production yields, a remaining issue is the lack of research into the use of biosurfactants in a greater range of industrial and consumer applications to demonstrate their efficacy and identify candidate biosurfactants for production. This review highlights such research as deserving of further investigation, alongside the ongoing work to optimize the production process.

Development and Genetic Engineering of Hyper-Producing Microbial Strains for Improved Synthesis of Biosurfactants

Current research energies are fixated on the synthesis of environmentally friendly and non-hazardous products, which include finding and recognizing biosurfactants that can substitute synthetic surfactants. Microbial biosurfactants are surface-active compounds synthesized intracellularly or extracellularly. To use biosurfactants in various industries, it is essential to understand scientific engagements that demonstrate its potentials as real advancement in the 21st century. Other than applying a substantial effect on the world economic market, engineered hyper-producing microbial strains in combination with optimized cultivation parameters have made it probable for many industrial companies to receive the profits of 'green' biosurfactant innovation. There needs to be an emphasis on the worldwide state of biosurfactant synthesis, expression of biosurfactant genes in expressive host systems, the recent developments, and prospects in this line of research. Thus, molecular dynamics with respect to genetic engineering of biosynthetic genes are proposed as new biotechnological tools for development, improved synthesis, and applications of biosurfactants. For example, mutant and hyper-producing recombinants have been designed efficaciously to advance the nature, quantity, and quality of biosurfactants. The fastidious and deliberate investigation will prompt a comprehension of the molecular dynamics and phenomena in new microorganisms. Throughout the decade, valuable data on the molecular genetics of biosurfactant have been produced, and this solid foundation would encourage application-oriented yields of the biosurfactant production industry and expand its utilization in diverse fields. Therefore, the conversations among different interdisciplinary experts from various scientific interests such as microbiology, biochemistry, molecular biology, and genetics are indispensable and significant to accomplish these objectives.

Artificially designed routes for the conversion of starch to value-added mannosyl compounds through coupling in vitro and in vivo metabolic engineering strategies

Starch/cellulose has become the major feedstock for manufacturing biofuels and biochemicals because of their abundance and sustainability. In this study, we presented an artificially designed "starch-mannose-fermentation" biotransformation process through coupling the advantages of in vivo and in vitro metabolic engineering strategies together. Starch was initially converted into mannose via an in vitro metabolic engineering biosystem, and then mannose was fermented by engineered microorganisms for biomanufacturing valuable mannosyl compounds. The in vitro metabolic engineering biosystem based on phosphorylation/dephosphorylation reactions was thermodynamically favorable and the conversion rate reached 81%. The mannose production using whole-cell biocatalysts reached 75.4 g/L in a 30-L reactor, indicating the potential industrial application. Furthermore, the produced mannose in the reactor was directly served as feedstock for the fermentation process to bottom-up produced 19.2 g/L mannosyl-oligosaccharides (MOS) and 7.2 g/L mannosylglycerate (MG) using recombinant Corynebacterium glutamicum strains. Notably, such a mannose fermentation process facilitated the synthesis of MOS, which has not been achieved under glucose fermentation and improved MG production by 2.6-fold than that using the same C-mole of glucose. This approach also allowed access to produce other kinds of mannosyl derivatives from starch.

Microbial Biosurfactants as Key Multifunctional Ingredients for Sustainable Cosmetics

A polar head and an apolar tail chemically characterize surfactants, they show different properties and are categorized by different factors such as head charge and molecular weight. They work by reducing the surface tension between oil and water phases to facilitate the formation of one homogeneous mixture. In this respect, they represent unavoidable ingredients, their main application is in the production of detergents, one of if not the most important categories of cosmetics. Their role is very important, it should be remembered that it was precisely soaps and hygiene that defeated the main infectious diseases at the beginning of the last century. Due to their positive environmental impact, the potential uses of microbial sourced surfactants are actively investigated. These compounds are produced with different mechanisms by microorganisms in the aims to defend themselves from external threats, to improve the mobility in the environment, etc. In the cosmetic field, biosurfactants, restricted in the present work to those described above, can carry high advantages, in comparison to traditional surfactants, especially in the field of sustainable and safer approaches. Besiede this, costs still remain an obsatcle to their diffusion; in this regard, exploration of possible multifunctional actions could help to contain application costs. To highlight their features and possible multifunctional role, on the light of specific biological profiles yet underestimated, we have approached the present review work.

Marine-Derived Surface Active Agents: Health-Promoting Properties and Blue Biotechnology-Based Applications

Surface active agents are characterized for their capacity to adsorb to fluid and solid-water interfaces. They can be classified as surfactants and emulsifiers based on their molecular weight (MW) and properties. Over the years, the chemical surfactant industry has been rapidly increasing to meet consumer demands. Consequently, such a boost has led to the search for more sustainable and biodegradable alternatives, as chemical surfactants are non-biodegradable, thus causing an adverse effect on the environment. To these ends, many microbial and/or marine-derived molecules have been shown to possess various biological properties that could allow manufacturers to make additional health-promoting claims for their products. Our aim, in this review article, is to provide up to date information of critical health-promoting properties of these molecules and their use in blue-based biotechnology (i.e., biotechnology using aquatic organisms) with a focus on food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical/biomedical applications.

Production and investigation of the physico-chemical properties of MEL-A from glycerol and coconut water

This work reports the production of MEL-A using coconut water as the carbon source. Proximate analysis of coconut water indicated the presence of nutrients necessary for growth of the organism and production of desired metabolite. The amount of MEL produced using coconut water was 3.85 g/L (± 0.35) with 74% of it being MEL-A when compared to 2.58 g/L (± 0.15) with 60% being MEL-A using glycerol, a conventional carbon source. MEL-A from coconut water consisted of 38.1% long-chain saturated fatty acids (C16:0 and C18:0) whereas with glycerol it was 9.6%. The critical micellar concentration of the biosurfactant from coconut water was 2.32 ± 0.21 µM when compared to 4.41 ± 0.25 µM from glycerol. The stability of O/W emulsion was reduced by 50% and 90% after incubation for 8 h in the case of MEL-A from coconut water and glycerol respectively when compared to synthetic surfactant, Tween-20. MEL-A from both the sources exhibited free radical scavenging activity (DPPH assay) in a dose-dependent manner wherein MEL-A from coconut water showed two fold higher activity than the other. The interaction of coconut water MEL-A with DPPC for drug encapsulation applications was also studied. The DSC measurements showed the differences in the interaction of drugs with DPPC/MEL-A liposome. The differences were also observed in the solubility of drugs after encapsulation with DPPC/MEL-A liposome.

Mannosylerythritol Lipid B Enhances the Skin Permeability of the Water-Soluble Compound Calcein via OH Stretching Vibration Changes

We confirmed that mannosylerythritol lipid B (MEL-B), a biosurfactant, enhances the skin permeability of the model water-soluble compound calcein. MEL-B liposomes were prepared by the thin-layer evaporation technique, and then applied to the skin. Although we attempted to adjust the size by extrusion, we could not control the particle diameter of the liposomes. However, the MEL-B liposome particle diameter remained the same over the 7-day study period. We observed an endothermic peak, with 74.7 °C as the transition temperature by differential scanning calorimetry. We also performed a fusion experiment with a fluorescence resonance energy transfer. A high amount of fusion of intercellular lipid liposomes and MEL-B liposomes occurred in a short period of time. After applying the MEL-B liposomes containing calcein to the skin, we measured the degree of calcein permeation and the amount of calcein within the skin. The resulting values were higher than those of an aqueous solution. The results obtained using a confocal laser scanning microscope suggested that calcein had been delivered deeply into the skin. Using the attenuation of total reflectance Fourier-transform infrared spectrometry, we observed that the OH stretching vibration had shifted to a higher wavenumber; however, this did not affect the CH stretching vibration. The measurement of transepidermal water loss after four days of continuous application of 1% MEL-B to animals revealed no changes. Our results suggest that MEL-B increases the skin permeability of compounds (calcein) that are difficult to deliver transdermally by changing the OH stretching vibration, which shifts to a higher wavenumber.

Mannosylerythritol lipids: antimicrobial and biomedical properties

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) have attracted particular interest of medical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic fields, due to their specific characteristics, including non-toxicity, easy biodegradability, and environmental compatibility. Therefore, this review aims to highlight recent findings on MEL biological properties, focusing on issues related to therapeutic applications. Among the main findings is that MELs can play a fundamental role due to their antimicrobial properties against several nosocomial pathogen microorganisms. Other remarkable biological properties of MELs are related to skincare, as antiaging (active agent), and in particular on recover of skin cells that were damaged by UV radiation. MEL is also related to the increased efficiency of DNA transfection in liposome systems. Regarding the health field, these glycolipids seem to be associated with disturbance in the membrane composition of cancerous cells, increasing expression of genes responsible for cytoplasmic stress and apoptosis. Moreover, MELs can be associated with nanoparticles, as a capping agent, also acting to increase the solubility and cytotoxicity of them. Furthermore, the differences in the chemical structure of MEL could improve and expand their biochemical diversity and applications. Such modifications could change their interfacial properties and, thus, reduce the surface tension value, enhance the solubility, lower critical micelle concentrations, and form unique self-assembly structures. The latest is closely related to molecular recognition and protein stabilization properties of MEL, that is, essential parameters for their effective cosmetical and pharmaceutical effects. Thus, this current research indicates the huge potential of MEL for use in biomedical formulations, either alone or in combination with other molecules.

Targeted transcriptomic study of the implication of central metabolic pathways in mannosylerythritol lipids biosynthesis in Pseudozyma antarctica T-34

Pseudozyma antarctica is a nonpathogenic phyllosphere yeast known as an excellent producer of industrial lipases and mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs), which are multi-functional glycolipids. The fungus produces a much higher amount of MELs from vegetable oil than from glucose, whereas its close relative, Ustilago maydis UM521, produces a lower amount of MELs from vegetable oil. In the present study, we used previous gene expression profiles measured by DNA microarray analyses after culturing on two carbon sources, glucose and soybean oil, to further characterize MEL biosynthesis in P. antarctica T-34. A total of 264 genes were found with induction ratios and expression intensities under oily conditions with similar tendencies to those of MEL cluster genes. Of these, 93 were categorized as metabolic genes using the Eukaryotic Orthologous Groups classification. Within this metabolic category, amino acids, carbohydrates, inorganic ions, and secondary metabolite metabolism, as well as energy production and conversion, but not lipid metabolism, were enriched. Furthermore, genes involved in central metabolic pathways, such as glycolysis and the tricarboxylic acid cycle, were highly induced in P. antarctica T-34 under oily conditions, whereas they were suppressed in U. maydis UM521. These results suggest that the central metabolism of P. antarctica T-34 under oily conditions contributes to its excellent oil utilization and extracellular glycolipid production.

Extreme environments: a source of biosurfactants for biotechnological applications

The surfactant industry moves billions of dollars a year and consists of chemically synthesized molecules usually derived from petroleum. Surfactant is a versatile molecule that is widely used in different industrial areas, with an emphasis on the petroleum, biomedical and detergent industries. Recently, interest in environmentally friendly surfactants that are resistant to extreme conditions has increased because of consumers' appeal for sustainable products and industrial processes that often require these characteristics. With this context, the need arises to search for surfactants produced by microorganisms coming from extreme environments and to mine their unique biotechnological potential. The production of biosurfactants is still incipient and presents challenges regarding economic viability due to the high costs of cultivation, production, recovery and purification. Advances can be made by exploring the extreme biosphere and bioinformatics tools. This review focuses on biosurfactants produced by microorganisms from different extreme environments, presenting a complete overview of what information is available in the literature, including the advances, challenges and future perspectives, as well as showing the possible applications of extreme biosurfactants.

Biosurfactant: A new frontier for greener technology and environmental sustainability

Petroleum hydrocarbons, oil, heavy metals pollution is becoming additional severe problem due to the growing call for crude oil and crude oil products related products in several fields of application. Such pollution have fascinated much considerations and attractions as it leads to ecological damages in both marines, aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems. Thus, different techniques including chemical surfactants and complex technologies have been proposed for their clean up from the environment, which in turn has detrimental effects on the environment. As of late, biosurfactant compounds have added much deliberation since they are considered as a reasonable option and eco-accommodating materials for remediation technology. The present society is confronting a few difficulties of usage, authorizing ecological protection and environmental change for the next generations. Biosurfactants hold the special property of minimizing and reducing the interfacial tension of liquids. Such features endure biosurfactants to afford a major part in emulsification, de-emulsification, biodegradability, foam formation, washing performance, surface activity, and detergent formulation, which have potential applications in the diverse industrial set-up. Conversations on cost-effective technologies, renewable materials, novel synthesis, downstream, upstream, emerging characterization techniques, molecular, and genetical engineering are substantial to produce biosurfactant of quality and quantity. Therefore, greater attention is being paid to biosurfactant production by identifying their environmental, and biotechnological applications. Be that as it may, the extravagant cost drew in with biosurfactants biotechnological synthesis and recovery can hamper their application in those areas. Notwithstanding these costs, biosurfactants can be used as these parts shows outstandingly high benefits that can at present beat the expenses incurred in the initial purification and downstream processes. Biosurfactant production by microorganisms is relatively considered one of the crucial know-how for improvement, growth, advancement, and environmental sustainability of the 21st century. There is a developing conversation around environmental safety and the significant role that biosurfactants will progressively play soon, for instance, the use of renewable by-products as substrates, potential reduction, re-use and recycling of waste and waste products. The review confers the usefulness of biosurfactants in the removal of environmental contaminants and, consequently, expanding environmental safety and drive towards greener technology.

Deficiency of biodegradable plastic-degrading enzyme production in a gene-deletion mutant of phyllosphere yeast, Pseudozyma antarctica defective in mannosylerythritol lipid biosynthesis

The basidiomycetous yeast Pseudozyma antarctica (currently designated Moesziomyces antarcticus) produces extracellular enzymes and glycolipids, including mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs), which are biosurfactants. Strain GB-4(0) of this species was previously isolated from rice husks and produces biodegradable plastic-degrading enzyme (Pseudozyma antarctica esterase; PaE). In this study, we generated a MEL biosynthesis-deficient strain (∆PaEMT1) by deleting the gene PaEMT1, which is essential to MEL biosynthesis in strain GB-4(0). The resulting ∆PaEMT1 strain showed deficient PaE activity, and the corresponding signal was hardly detected in its culture supernatant through western blotting analysis using rabbit anti-PaE serum. On the other hand, the relative expression of the gene PaCLE1, encoding PaE, was identical between GB-4(0) and ∆PaEMT1 based on quantitative real-time PCR. When strain ∆PaEMT1 was grown in culture media supplemented with various surfactants, i.e., Tween20, BRIJ35 and TritonX-100, and MELs, PaE activity and secretion recovered. We also attempted to detect intracellular PaE using cell-free extract, but observed no signal in the soluble or insoluble fractions of ∆PaEMT1. This result suggested that the PaCLE1 gene was not translated to PaE, or that expressed PaE was degraded immediately in ∆PaEMT1. Based on these results, MEL biosynthesis is an important contributor to PaE production.

Production and characterization of a new glycolipid, mannosylerythritol lipid, from waste cooking oil biotransformation by Pseudozyma aphidis ZJUDM34

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipids possessing unique biosurfactant properties. However, the prices of substrates currently used for MEL formation caused its unsustainable commercial development. Waste cooking oil poses significant ecological and economical problems. Thus, the production of MELs from used waste cooking oil using the biotransformation route is one of the better alternatives to utilize it efficiently and economically. This work aims at the production of MELs using waste cooking oil instead of soybean oil and evaluating the major characteristics and compositions of MELs. The titers reached 61.50 g/L by the optimization of culture medium, higher than the counterpart (10.25 ± 0.32 g/L) of the nonoptimized medium. MELs exhibited good surface activity and better performance in contrast to MELs grown on soybean oil. The water phase behavior of MEL-A was also evaluated. The process showed higher productivity of MELs with better surface activity and application stability than the conventional process using soybean oil. The findings of this study imply that the use of inexpensive fermentation substrates associated with straightforward downstream processing is expected to have a great impact on the economy of MEL production.

Mannosylerythritol lipids ameliorate ultraviolet A-induced aquaporin-3 downregulation by suppressing c-Jun N-terminal kinase phosphorylation in cultured human keratinocytes

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipids and have several pharmacological efficacies. MELs also show skin-moisturizing efficacy through a yet-unknown underlying mechanism. Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a membrane protein that contributes to the water homeostasis of the epidermis, and decreased AQP3 expression following ultraviolet (UV)-irradiation of the skin is associated with reduced skin moisture. No previous study has examined whether the skin-moisturizing effect of MELs might act through the modulation of AQP3 expression. Here, we report for the first time that MELs ameliorate the UVA-induced downregulation of AQP3 in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT keratinocytes). Our results revealed that UVA irradiation decreases AQP3 expression at the protein and messenger RNA (mRNA) levels, but that MEL treatment significantly ameliorated these effects. Our mitogen-activated protein kinase inhibitor analysis revealed that phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), but not extracellular signal-regulated kinase or p38, mediates UVA-induced AQP3 downregulation, and that MEL treatment significantly suppressed the UVA-induced phosphorylation of JNK. To explore a possible mechanism, we tested whether MELs could regulate the expression of peroxidase proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPAR-γ), which acts as a potent transcription factor for AQP3 expression. Interestingly, UVA irradiation significantly inhibited the mRNA expression of PPAR-γ in HaCaT keratinocytes, whereas a JNK inhibitor and MELs significantly rescued this effect. Taken together, these findings suggest that MELs ameliorate UVA-induced AQP3 downregulation in HaCaT keratinocytes by suppressing JNK activation to block the decrease of PPAR-γ. Collectively, our findings suggest that MELs can be used as a potential ingredient that modulates AQP3 expression to improve skin moisturization following UVA irradiation-induced damage.

Mannosylerythritol lipids inhibit melanogenesis via suppressing ERK-CREB-MiTF-tyrosinase signalling in normal human melanocytes and a three-dimensional human skin equivalent

Hyperpigmentation is caused by excessive production of melanin in melanocytes. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are glycolipid biosurfactants that are abundantly produced by yeasts and used commercially in cosmetics. However, the potential depigmenting efficacy of MELs has not been evaluated. In this study, the depigmentary effect of MELs was tested in primary normal human melanocytes (NHMs), α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16 cells (murine melanoma cells) and a human skin equivalent (MelanoDerm) using photography, Fontana-Masson (F&M) staining and two-photon microscopy. Mannosylerythritol lipids significantly decreased the melanin contents in NHMs and α-MSH-stimulated B16 cells. Consistent with these findings, MELs treatment had a clear whitening effect in a human skin equivalent, brightening the tissue colour and reducing the melanin content. The molecular mechanism underlying the anti-melanogenic effect of MELs treatment was examined by real-time PCR and Western blotting. Mechanistically, MELs clearly suppressed the gene expression levels of representative melanogenic enzymes, including tyrosinase, Tyrp-1 and Tyrp-2, by inhibiting the ERK/CREB/MiTF signalling pathway in NHMs. This work demonstrates for the first time that MELs exert whitening effects on human melanocytes and skin equivalent. Thus, we suggest that MELs could be developed as a potent anti-melanogenic agent for effective whitening, beyond their use as a biosurfactant in cosmetics.

Saponins and microbial biosurfactants: Potential raw materials for the formulation of cosmetics

The cosmetic industry is currently one of the fasting growing sections of the economy in many countries. The recent tendency toward the use of cosmetics of a natural origin has driven the industry to seek alternatives to synthetic components in the formulation of products. Biosurfactants are natural compounds that have considerable potential for application in the formulation of safe, effective cosmetics as a replacement for commonly used chemical tensioactive agents. The present review provides essential information on the physicochemical and biological properties of saponins and microbial biosurfactants employed in cosmetic products, with a focus on the use of these natural compounds in shampoos, addressing the current state of research and patents involving biosurfactants for this purpose. The challenges and prospects of this cosmetic application are also discussed. © 2018 American Institute of Chemical Engineers Biotechnol. Prog., 34:1482-1493, 2018.

Simple glycolipids of microbes: Chemistry, biological activity and metabolic engineering

Glycosylated lipids (GLs) are added-value lipid derivatives of great potential. Besides their interesting surface activities that qualify many of them to act as excellent ecological detergents, they have diverse biological activities with promising biomedical and cosmeceutical applications. Glycolipids, especially those of microbial origin, have interesting antimicrobial, anticancer, antiparasitic as well as immunomodulatory activities. Nonetheless, GLs are hardly accessing the market because of their high cost of production. We believe that experience of metabolic engineering (ME) of microbial lipids for biofuel production can now be harnessed towards a successful synthesis of microbial GLs for biomedical and other applications. This review presents chemical groups of bacterial and fungal GLs, their biological activities, their general biosynthetic pathways and an insight on ME strategies for their production.

Going Green and Cold: Biosurfactants from Low-Temperature Environments to Biotechnology Applications

Approximately 80% of the Earth's biosphere is cold, at an average temperature of 5°C, and is populated by a diversity of microorganisms that are a precious source of molecules with high biotechnological potential. Biosurfactants from cold-adapted organisms can interact with multiple physical phases - water, ice, hydrophobic compounds, and gases - at low and freezing temperatures and be used in sustainable (green) and low-energy-impact (cold) products and processes. We review the biodiversity of microbial biosurfactants produced in cold habitats and provide a perspective on the most promising future applications in environmental and industrial technologies. Finally, we encourage exploring the cryosphere for novel types of biosurfactants via both culture screening and functional metagenomics.

The yeast-like fungus Aureobasidium thailandense LB01 produces a new biosurfactant using olive oil mill wastewater as an inducer

In this study, the biosurfactant production by an Aureobasidium thailandense LB01 was reported for the first time. Different agro-industrial by-products (corn steep liquor, sugarcane molasses, and olive oil mill wastewater) were evaluated as alternative low-cost substrates. The composition of the culture medium was optimized through response surface methodology. The highest biosurfactant production (139±16mg/L) was achieved using a culture medium containing yeast extract (2g/L); olive oil mill wastewater (1.5%, w/w); glucose (6g/L) and KH₂PO₄ (1g/L) after 48h of fermentation. The partially purified biosurfactant exhibited a critical micelle concentration of 550mg/L, reducing the surface tension of water up to 31.2mN/m. Its molecular structure was found to be similar to a lauric acid ester. The biosurfactant exhibited a better performance than the chemical surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) in oil dispersion assays, thus suggesting its potential application in bioremediation.

Potential application of Bacillus subtilis SPB1 lipopeptides in toothpaste formulation

•

The application of a lipopeptide biosurfactant in a toothpaste formulation.

•

The investigation of the physicochemical properties and the cleaning ability of the formulated toothpaste.

•

The evaluation of the antimicrobial activity of the formulated toothpaste.

•

The follow-up of the formulated toothpaste stability.

Toothpaste is a gel dentifrice used with a toothbrush as an accessory to clean, keep and promote oral hygiene. The literature review suggests that there are many different formulations of toothpastes and that each of their individual components present specific functions. The concentration of the toothpaste ingredients must be appropriately chosen taking into account the purposes of the toothpaste. Biosurfactants are considered as suitable molecules for application in many formulations such as in toothpaste one. In the present work, two dentifrice formulations were investigated and their efficiencies were tested using chemical surfactant agent and lipopeptide biosurfactant isolated from Bacillus subtilis SPB1. The physicochemical properties were analyzed considering several tests mainly spreading ability, water activity, pH, foaming and cleaning tests. The obtained results indicated that the SPB1 biosurfactant was as efficient as the chemical surfactant confirming its potential utilization in toothpaste formulation compared to the commercial one. The evaluation of the antimicrobial activity of the formulated dentifrice was carried out against eight bacteria. The results demonstrated that the biosurfactant-based product exhibited an important antimicrobial activity, which was very effective against Enterobacter sp and Salmonella typhinirium.

Characterization, enhancement and modelling of mannosylerythritol lipid production by fungal endophyte Ceriporia lacerate CHZJU

The glycolipid biosurfactants mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) attract great attention for their biodegradability, super emulsifying properties and versatile bioactivities. In this study, the MEL deriving from Ceriporia lacerate CHZJU was identified as MEL-A, and its critical micelle concentration and emulsifying activities were assessed. To examine the production of MELs from Ceriporia lacerate, a Plackett-Burman design and response surface methodology were used to optimize the culture nutrients. The optimal medium contains 1g/L yeast extract, 1.5g/L (NH₄)₂SO₄, 0.5g/L KH₂PO₄, 0.04g/L CaCl₂, 119.6mL/L soybean oil and 0.297g/L MnSO₄. Subsequent verification revealed that the yield of MELs was 129.64±5.67g/L. Furthermore, an unstructured kinetic model was developed for mycelial growth, MEL production and substrate utilization. This work provides insight into Ceriporia lacerate CHZJU, a predominant fungus producing MEL-A. Optimization using response surface methodology enhanced the mannosylerythritol lipid recovery. Importantly, we developed fermentation kinetic modelling for mannosylerythritol lipid production.

Biosurfactants in cosmetic formulations: trends and challenges

Cosmetic products play an essential role in everyone's life. People everyday use a large variety of cosmetic products such as soap, shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant, skin care, perfume, make-up, among others. The cosmetic industry encompasses several environmental, social and economic impacts that are being addressed through the search for more efficient manufacturing techniques, the reduction of waste and emissions and the promotion of personal hygiene, contributing to an improvement of public health and at the same time providing employment opportunities. The current trend among consumers is the pursuit for natural ingredients in cosmetic products, as many of these products exhibit equal, better or additional benefits in comparison with the chemical-based products. In this sense, biosurfactants are natural compounds with great potential in the formulation of cosmetic products given by their biodegradability and impact in health. Indeed, many of these biosurfactants could exhibit a "prebiotic" character. This review covers the current state-of-the-art of biosurfactant research for cosmetic purposes and further discusses the future challenges for cosmetic applications.

Enhanced separation and analysis procedure reveals production of tri-acylated mannosylerythritol lipids by Pseudozyma aphidis

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are one of the most promising biosurfactants because of their high fermentation yields (>100 g l−1) and during the last two decades they have gained a lot of attention due to their interesting self-assembling properties and biological activities. In this study, MELs were produced by fed-batch bioreactor fermentation of rapeseed oil with Pseudozyma aphidis MUCL 27852. This high-level MEL-producing yeast secretes four conventional MEL structures, -A, -B, -C and -D, which differ in their degree of acetylation. During our research, unknown compounds synthesized by P. aphidis were detected by thin-layer chromatography. The unknown compounds were separated by flash chromatography and identified as tri-acylated MELs by high-performance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC–MS/MS). The third fatty acid chain on the tri-acylated MELs was positioned on the primary alcohol of the erythritol moiety and comprised long-chain acids, mainly oleic and linoleic acid, which are not found in conventional di-acylated MELs. Furthermore, the LC–MS analysis time of conventional MELs was reduced to almost one-third by switching from HPLC–MS/MS to ultraperformance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC–MS/MS). Provided optimization of the fermentation yield, P. aphidis could be an interesting novel producer of tri-acylated MELs and, thereby expand the supply and applicability of biosurfactants.