Skin pigmentation enhancers

Changing human hair fibre colour and shape from the follicle

INTRODUCTION

Natural hair curvature and colour are genetically determined human traits, that we intentionally change by applying thermal and chemical treatments to the fibre. Presently, those cosmetic methodologies act externally and their recurrent use is quite detrimental to hair fibre quality and even to our health.

OBJECTIVES

This work represents a disruptive concept to modify natural hair colour and curvature. We aim to model the fibre phenotype as it is actively produced in the follicle through the topical delivery of specific bioactive molecules to the scalp.

METHODS

Transcriptome differences between curly and straight hairs were identified by microarray. In scalp samples, the most variable transcripts were mapped by in situ hybridization. Then, by using appropriate cellular models, we screened a chemical library of 1200 generic drugs, searching for molecules that could lead to changes in either fibre colour or curvature. A pilot-scale, single-centre, investigator-initiated, prospective, blind, bilateral (split-scalp) placebo-controlled clinical study with the intervention of cosmetics was conducted to obtain a proof of concept (RNEC n.92938).

RESULTS

We found 85 genes transcribed significantly different between curly and straight hair, not previously associated with this human trait. Next, we mapped some of the most variable genes to the inner root sheath of follicles, reinforcing the role of this cell layer in fibre shape moulding. From the drug library screening, we selected 3 and 4 hits as modulators of melanin synthesis and gene transcription, respectively, to be further tested in 33 volunteers. The intentional specific hair change occurred: 8 of 14 volunteers exhibited colour changes, and 16 of 19 volunteers presented curvature modifications, by the end of the study.

CONCLUSION

The promising results obtained are the first step towards future cosmetics, complementary or alternative to current methodologies, taking hair styling to a new level: changing hair from the inside out.

Tricholoma matsutake polysaccharides suppress excessive melanogenesis via JNK-mediated pathway: Investigation in 8- methoxypsoralen induced B16-F10 melanoma cells and clinical study

Skin hyperpigmentation is a worldwide condition associated with augmented melanogenesis. However, conventional therapies often entail various adverse effects. Here, we explore the safety range and depigmentary effects of polysaccharides extract of Tricholoma matsutake (PETM) in an in vitro model and further evaluated its efficacy at the clinical level. An induced-melanogenesis model was established by treating B16-F10 melanoma cells with 8-methoxypsoralen (8-MOP). Effects of PETM on cell viability and melanin content were examined and compared to a commonly used depigmentary agent, α-arbutin. Expressions of key melanogenic factors and upstream signaling pathway were analysed by quantitative PCR and western blot. Moreover, a placebo-controlled clinical study involving Chinese females with skin hyperpigmentation was conducted to measure the efficacy of PETM on improving facial pigmented spots, melanin index, and individual typology angle (ITA°). Results demonstrated that PETM (up to 0.5 mg/mL) had little effect on the viability and motility of B16-F10 cells. Notably, it significantly suppressed the melanin content and expressions of key melanogenic factors induced by 8-MOP in B16-F10 melanoma cells. Western blotting results revealed that PETM inhibited melanogenesis by inactivating c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and this inhibitory role could be rescued by JNK agonist treatment. Clinical findings showed that PETM treatment resulted in a significant reduction of facial hyperpigmented spot, decreased melanin index, and improved ITA° value compared to the placebo-control group. In conclusion, these in vitro and clinical evidence demonstrated the safety and depigmentary efficacy of PETM, a novel polysaccharide agent. The distinct mechanism of action of PETM on melanogenic signaling pathway positions it as a promising agent for developing alternative therapies.

Lipidomic Analysis of Hand Skin Surface Lipids Reveals Smoking-Related Skin Changes

Smoking contributes to the formation of skin wrinkles and reduces skin function, but the mechanism is not yet fully proven. This study aims to compare and analyze the effects of smoking on skin lipids and to further investigate the harmful effects of smoking on the skin. A total of 40 subjects (20 male smokers and 20 healthy control males) were recruited for this study. Measurement of hand skin-surface lipids (SSLs) in smoking and healthy control groups was undertaken using ultra-performance liquid chromatography quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-Q-TOF-MS). Multivariate data analysis was used to investigate the differences in SSLs between the two groups. There were 1230 lipids detected in the two groups and significant differences in SSLs' composition were observed between them. Under selected conditions, 26 types of lipid with significant differences were observed between the two groups (p < 0.05). Sphingolipids (SP) and glycerolipids (GL) were significantly increased, and sterol lipids (ST) were significantly reduced. Smoking causes changes in skin lipids that disrupt skin homeostasis, making the skin more fragile and more susceptible to skin aging and diseases.

Characterization of Phenethyl Cinnamamide Compounds from Hemp Seed and Determination of Their Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity

Hyperpigmentation is induced by the overactivation of tyrosinase, which is a rate-limiting enzyme in melanogenesis. The defatted extract of hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) seed is known to have inhibitory effects on melanogenesis; however, effective compounds in the extract have not been identified yet. In this study, three phenethyl cinnamamides present in hemp seed extract were prepared by purification and chemical synthesis and were assessed for their inhibitory effect on melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. A comparison of the anti-melanogenesis and anti-tyrosinase activity of hemp seed solvent fractions revealed that the ethyl acetate fraction possessed the greatest potential for suppressing melanogenesis in melanoma cells by decreasing tyrosinase activity. We tentatively identified 26 compounds in the ethyl acetate fraction by comparing spectroscopic data with the literature. Three phenethyl cinnamamides such as N-trans-caffeoyltyramine, N-trans-coumaroyltyramine, and N-trans-feruloyltyramine present abundantly in the ethyl acetate fraction were prepared and their anti-melanogenesis and anti-tyrosinase activities in melanoma cells were evaluated. We found that N-trans-caffeoyltyramine and N-trans-feruloyltyramine inhibited alpha melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis without cytotoxicity, while N-trans-coumaroyltyramine inhibited melanogenesis with cytotoxicity. IC₅₀ values of N-trans-caffeoyltyramine, N-trans-feruloyltyramine, and N-trans-coumaroyltyramine for inhibition of α-MSH-mediated tyrosinase activation were 0.8, 20.2, and 6.3 μM, respectively. Overall, N-trans-caffeoyltyramine possessed the strongest anti-melanogenesis activity among the three phenethyl cinnamamides evaluated. The inhibitory effect of N-trans-caffeoyltyramine was verified by determining the melanin content and tyrosinase activity in melanoma after treating the cells with synthetic compounds. Thus, N-trans-caffeoyltyramine isolated from hemp seed extract could be useful in cosmetics as a skin-whitening agent.

Marine endophytic fungi associated with Halopteris scoparia (Linnaeus) Sauvageau as producers of bioactive secondary metabolites with potential dermocosmetic application

Marine fungi and, particularly, endophytic species have been recognised as one of the most prolific sources of structurally new and diverse bioactive secondary metabolites with multiple biotechnological applications. Despite the increasing number of bioprospecting studies, very few have already evaluated the cosmeceutical potential of marine fungal compounds. Thus, this study focused on a frequent seaweed in the Portuguese coast, Halopteris scoparia, to identify the endophytic marine fungi associated with this host, and assess their ability to biosynthesise secondary metabolites with antioxidative, enzymatic inhibitory (hyaluronidase, collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase), anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, and antimicrobial (Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Malassezia furfur) activities. The results revealed eight fungal taxa included in the Ascomycota, and in the most representative taxonomic classes in marine ecosystems (Eurotiomycetes, Sordariomycetes and Dothideomycetes). These fungi were reported for the first time in Portugal and in association with H. scoparia, as far as it is known. The screening analyses showed that most of these endophytic fungi were producers of compounds with relevant biological activities, though those biosynthesised by Penicillium sect. Exilicaulis and Aspergillus chevalieri proved to be the most promising ones for being further exploited by dermocosmetic industry. The chemical analysis of the crude extract from an isolate of A. chevalieri revealed the presence of two bioactive compounds, echinulin and neoechinulin A, which might explain the high antioxidant and UV photoprotective capacities exhibited by the extract. These noteworthy results emphasised the importance of screening the secondary metabolites produced by these marine endophytic fungal strains for other potential bioactivities, and the relevance of investing more efforts in understanding the ecology of halo/osmotolerant fungi.

Characterization of Caffeoylquinic Acids from Lepisorus thunbergianus and Their Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity

Hyperpigmentation resulting from the overactivation of tyrosinase leads to darker spots or patches on the human skin. Although these phenomena are harmless, there is still great demand for melanogenesis inhibitors to prevent hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the tyrosinase, a rate-limiting enzyme in melanogenesis. Although Lepisorus thunbergianus has been used in folk remedies as a diuretic and hemostatic agent, its effect on melanogenesis has not yet been reported. In this study, we prepared an L. thunbergianus extract and its solvent fractions and evaluated their biological activity against free radical and melanin synthesis. The extract of L. thunbergianus inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity more efficiently than, and with similar antioxidant activity to, arbutin in vitro. Comparative evaluation of the anti-melanogenesis and anti-tyrosinase activity of L. thunbergianus solvent fractions demonstrated that, by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, the butanol fraction has the highest potential for the inhibition of melanogenesis in melanoma cells. We found by structural analysis using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and NMR spectroscopy that the major compounds in butanol fraction were three caffeoylquinic acid derivatives. The three derivatives had similar radical scavenging and anti-tyrosinase activities in vitro, while only 5-caffeoylquinic acid had an inhibitory effect on α-MSH-induced melanogenesis. The inhibitory effect of 5-caffeoylquinic acid was verified by the determination of the melanin content and tyrosinase activity in melanoma after treating the cells with a commercial compound. Further, we revealed that 5-caffeoylquinic acid inhibited melanogenesis by chelating a copper cation from a copper-tyrosinase complex. Thus, 5-caffeoylquinic acid or butanol fraction isolated from L. thunbergianus might be useful in cosmetics as a skin-whitening agent.

"Ecological risk assessments and eco-toxicity analyses using chemical, biological, physiological responses, DNA damages and gene-level biomarkers in Zebrafish (Danio rerio) in an urban stream"

We conducted the ecological risk assessment in an urban stream by using multiple-level approaches ranging from community level, chemical analyses in water and sediments, physiological assays of DNA biomarkers, embryonic development tests, and gene-level marker analyses of cyp1a, c-Fos, CRH, transgenic fli1:GFP and HuC:eGFP in zebrafish (Danio rerio). In water, the chemical perturbations based on nutrients (N,P), organic matter, ionic contents and metals identified in downstream zone. Analogous corroborations verified in sediment samples having hazardous metals (Zn, Pb, Cu, Ni, As, Cd). The chemical contaminations reflected significant damages in fish DNA, based on tDNA, tail length (TL), and tail extent moment (TEM). Zebrafish embryonic development experiments significantly enlightened the chemical contaminants in downstream compared to those in control and reference conditions. Hatching and survival rates rigorously declined in downstream region. Embryonic development delayed and followed by death in the downstream substantiated by the above-mentioned findings. Similar were the findings on heart rate and pigmentation largely affected in the contaminated zone. Pollutants in urban stream reflected significantly at the gene level, and were corroborated through experiments using transgenic zebrafish strains that were influenced by pollutants during the process of occurrence. In conclusion, these studies illuminate the community to gene-level ecological health assessment that could be useful for ecological risk assessments of urban streams and rivers. Further, the gene-level biomarkers and transgenic zebrafish experiments combination propose the procedures could be effectively used as sensitive and efficient biomarkers of ecological health and risk assessment in urban streams from community to gene-level assessments.

Isolation and Characterization of Isofraxidin 7-O-(6'-O-p-Coumaroyl)-β-glucopyranoside from Artemisia capillaris Thunberg: A Novel, Nontoxic Hyperpigmentation Agent That Is Effective In Vivo

Abnormalities in skin pigmentation can produce disorders such as albinism or melasma. There is a research need to discover novel compounds that safely and effectively regulate pigmentation. To identify novel modulators of pigmentation, we attempted to purify compounds from a bioactive fraction of the Korean medicinal plant Artemisia capillaris Thunberg. The novel compound isofraxidin 7-O-(6′-O-p-coumaroyl)-β-glucopyranoside (compound 1) was isolated and its pigmentation activity was characterized in mammalian melanocytes. Compound 1 stimulated melanin accumulation and increased tyrosinase activity, which regulates melanin synthesis. Moreover, compound 1 increased the expression of tyrosinase and the key melanogenesis regulator microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in melanocytes. Compared to the parent compound, isofraxidin, compound 1 produced greater effects on these pigmentation parameters. To validate compound 1 as a novel hyperpigmentation agent in vivo, we utilized the zebrafish vertebrate model. Zebrafish treated with compound 1 showed higher melanogenesis and increased tyrosinase activity. Compound 1 treated embryos had no developmental defects and displayed normal cardiac function, indicating that this compound enhanced pigmentation without producing toxicity. In summary, our results describe the characterization of novel natural product compound 1 and its bioactivity as a pigmentation enhancer, demonstrating its potential as a therapeutic to treat hypopigmentation disorders.

Isolation of 4,5-O-Dicaffeoylquinic Acid as a Pigmentation Inhibitor Occurring in Artemisia capillaris Thunberg and Its Validation In Vivo

There is a continual need to develop novel and effective melanogenesis inhibitors for the prevention of hyperpigmentation disorders. The plant Artemisia capillaris Thunberg (Oriental Wormwood) was screened for antipigmentation activity using murine cultured cells (B16-F10 malignant melanocytes). Activity-based fractionation using HPLC and NMR analyses identified the compound 4,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid as an active component in this plant. 4,5-O-Dicaffeoylquinic acid significantly reduced melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner in the melanocytes. In addition, 4,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid treatment reduced the expression of tyrosinase-related protein-1. Significantly, we could validate the antipigmentation activity of this compound in vivo, using a zebrafish model. Moreover, 4,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid did not show toxicity in this animal model. Our discovery of 4,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid as an inhibitor of pigmentation that is active in vivo shows that this compound can be developed as an active component for formulations to treat pigmentation disorders.

Effects of oxygen transfer coefficient on dihydroxyacetone production from crude glycerol

The principal objective of this study was to evaluate the kinetics of dihydroxyacetone production by Gluconobacter frateurii CGMCC 5397 under different oxygen volumetric mass transfer coefficient (k_La) conditions in submerged bioreactors using biodiesel-derived crude glycerol as the carbon source. k_La is a key fermentation parameter for the production of dihydroxyacetone. Cultivations were conducted in baffled- and unbaffled-flask cultures (the k_La values were 24.32 h⁻¹ and 52.05 h⁻¹, respectively) and fed-batch cultures (the k_La values were held at 18.21 h⁻¹, 46.03 h⁻¹, and 82.14 h⁻¹) to achieve high dihydroxyacetone concentration and productivity. The results showed that a high k_La could dramatically increase dihydroxyacetone concentrations and productivities. The baffled-flask culture (with a k_La of 52.05 h⁻¹) favored glycerol utilization and dihydroxyacetone production, and a dihydroxyacetone concentration as high as 131.16 g/L was achieved. When the k_La was set to 82.14 h⁻¹ in the fed-batch culture, the dihydroxyacetone concentration, productivity and yield were 175.44 g/L, 7.96 g/L/h and 0.89 g/g, respectively, all of which were significantly higher than those in previous studies and will benefit dihydroxyacetone industrial production.

Inhibitory Effects of (2'R)-2',3'-dihydro-2'-(1-hydroxy-1-methylethyl)-2,6'-bibenzofuran-6,4'-diol on Mushroom Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis in B16-F10 Melanoma Cells

(2'R)-2',3'-Dihydro-2'-(1-hydroxy-1-methylethyl)-2,6'-bibenzofuran-6,4'-diol (DHMB) is a natural compound extracted from Morus notabilis. It was found that DHMB acts as a competitive inhibitor against mushroom tyrosinase with a Ki value of 14.77 μM. Docking results further indicated that it could form strong interactions with one copper ion with a distance of 2.7 Å, suggesting the mechanism of inhibition might be due to chelating copper ions in the active site. Furthermore, melanin production in B16-F10 murine melanoma cells was significantly inhibited by DHMB in a concentration-dependent manner without cytotoxicity. The results of western blotting also showed that DHMB decreased 3-isobuty-1-methxlzanthine-induced mature tyrosinase expression. Taken together, these findings indicated that DHMB may be a new promising pigmentation-altering agent for agriculture, cosmetic, and therapeutic applications.

Efficient production of dihydroxyacetone from biodiesel-derived crude glycerol by newly isolated Gluconobacter frateurii

The efficient production of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) on biodiesel-derived glycerol based media was developed. A newly isolated strain, Gluconobacter frateurii CGMCC 5397, could convert crude glycerol to DHA with high yield and productivity. In shake-flask fermentation, the DHA concentration of 73.1 gl(-1) was attained at 48 h using an optimum medium containing biodiesel-derived crude glycerol. When fed-batch fermentation was carried out in a 7-l stirred bioreactor with crude glycerol, the DHA concentration, productivity, and yield were 125.8 gl(-1), 2.6 gl(-1)h(-1), and 90.5% at 48 h, respectively. This study suggests that the inexpensive biodiesel-derived crude glycerol could be utilized for efficient production of DHA by G. frateurii.

Citrus flavanone naringenin enhances melanogenesis through the activation of Wnt/β-catenin signalling in mouse melanoma cells

Citrus fruits are the major source of flavonoids for humans, and flavanones are the main flavonoids in the Citrus species. Among the Citrus flavanones, the glycoside derivatives of naringenin, naringin and narirutin, are the most abundant in grapefruit. The present study aimed to investigate the molecular events of melanogenesis induced by naringenin in murine B16-F10 melanoma cells. Melanin content, tyrosinase activity and Western blot analysis were performed to elucidate the possible underlying mechanisms. Exposure of melanoma cells to naringenin resulted in morphological changes accompanied by the induction of melanocyte differentiation-related markers, such as melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, and the expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). We also observed an increase in the intracellular accumulation of β-catenin as well as the phosphorylation of glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK3β) protein after treatment with naringenin. Moreover, the activity of phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K) was up-regulated by naringenin since the phosphorylated level of downstream Akt protein was enhanced. Based on these results, we concluded that naringenin induced melanogenesis through the Wnt-β-catenin-signalling pathway.

Solar radiation induced skin damage: review of protective and preventive options

PURPOSE

Solar energy has a number of short- and long-term detrimental effects on skin that can result in several skin disorders. The aim of this review is to summarise current knowledge on endogenous systems within the skin for protection from solar radiation and present research findings to date, on the exogenous options for such skin photoprotection.

RESULTS

Endogenous systems for protection from solar radiation include melanin synthesis, epidermal thickening and an antioxidant network. Existing lesions are eliminated via repair mechanisms. Cells with irreparable damage undergo apoptosis. Excessive and chronic sun exposure however can overwhelm these mechanisms leading to photoaging and the development of cutaneous malignancies. Therefore exogenous means are a necessity. Exogenous protection includes sun avoidance, use of photoprotective clothing and sufficient application of broad-spectrum sunscreens as presently the best way to protect the skin. However other strategies that may enhance currently used means of protection are being investigated. These are often based on the endogenous protective response to solar light such as compounds that stimulate pigmentation, antioxidant enzymes, DNA repair enzymes, non-enzymatic antioxidants.

CONCLUSION

More research is needed to confirm the effectiveness of new alternatives to photoprotection such as use of DNA repair and antioxidant enzymes and plant polyphenols and to find an efficient way for their delivery to the skin. New approaches to the prevention of skin damage are important especially for specific groups of people such as (young) children, photosensitive people and patients on immunosuppressive therapy. Changes in public awareness on the subject too must be made.

Betulin binds to melanocortin receptors and antagonizes alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone induced cAMP generation in mouse melanoma cells

Betulin is a principal component of birch bark and is known to possess a broad range of biological activities, including antiinflammatory, antiviral and anticancer actions. The present study was carried out in vitro to clarify the influence of betulin on melanocortin (MC) receptor-ergic signalling by using COS-7 cells transfected with corresponding human MC receptor DNA. The results showed that betulin binds to the human melanocortin MC1, three to five receptors with selectivity to the MC1 subtype (K(i) value 1.022 +/- 0.115 microM). Betulin binds to the MC receptors with the following potency order-MC > MC3 > MC5 > MC4. Betulin itself does not stimulate cAMP generation, however, it slightly antagonizes alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH)-induced cAMP accumulation in the mouse melanoma cell line B16-F1. As a water-insoluble substance, betulin was dissolved in DMSO therefore DMSO competition with the labelled ligand NDP-MSH for the binding to the MC receptors was tested in the identical experimental set-up. We found that DMSO competes for binding to all the MC receptor subtypes, at 20% concentration and above. Selectivity for one or another receptor subtype was not observed. We have demonstrated for the first time, the ability of the plant compound betulin to bind to the MC receptors. One may suggest MC receptor MC1 subtype as the essential target for the antimelanoma action of betulin and its structurally close molecules such as betulinic acid. Moreover, we have found a new non-peptide small molecule MC mimetic, that is betulin. Thus, we report a new chemical motif for the binding to the MC receptors that could be used as a template for the search of more selective MC mimetics.

The melanocyte and the epidermal melanin unit: an expanded concept

There are many mechanisms by which melanocytes, keratinocytes, and Langerhans cells interact within the epidermis. Inflammatory mediators affect melanocyte function and melanogenic agents such as alpha-MSH alter the functions of keratinocytes and Langerhans cells. The epidermal melanin unit is better labeled the KLM unit.

Identification of Novel Pigmentation Modulators by Chemical Genetic Screening

There is a continual need for compounds that effectively modulate melanin synthesis. To identify novel pigmentation modulators and their cellular targets, chemical genetic screenings were performed with triazine-based combinatorial libraries that include various linkers as intrinsic components of the small molecules in the library. The linker provides a ready means of attachment to beads, eliminating several common time-consuming downstream steps in the isolation of cellular targets for the small molecules of interest. Twelve compounds were identified as novel pigmentation modulators from various screenings performed in normal and albino murine melanocytes and zebrafish. Target identification by affinity chromatography revealed unexpected roles for prohibitin and mitochondrial F1F0-adenotriphosphatase in the regulation of mammalian pigmentation. The identification of prohibitin, a "scaffold protein", as a propigmentation effector represents a novel mechanism by which propigmentary signals are transduced. Results from our screenings provide potential active agents and targets for the medical and aesthetic treatment of disorders of pigmentation.

Inhibitory effect of the water-soluble polymer-wrapped derivative of fullerene on UVA-induced melanogenesis via downregulation of tyrosinase expression in human melanocytes and skin tissues

The C60-fullerene derivatives are expected, as novel and potent anti-oxidants, to more effectively protect skin cells against oxidative stress. UVA-induced oxidative stress is considered to promote melanogenesis and serious skin damage. The effect of any fullerene derivatives on UVA-induced melanogenesis is still unknown. Here, we evaluated effects of a water-soluble polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)-wrapped fullerene derivative (named "Radical Radical Sponge" because of its anti-oxidant ability) on melanogenesis, which was promoted by UVA-irradiation to human melanocytes and skin tissues. Radical Sponge markedly scavenged UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) inside human melanocytes as shown by fluorometry using the redox indicator CDCFH-DA. After treatment with Radical Sponge or other agents, human melanocytes and skin tissues were irradiated by UVA. Then, cellular melanin content, tyrosinase activity and the ultrastructural change of skin melanosomes were examined. Radical Sponge showed to significantly inhibit UVA-promoted melanogenesis in normal human epidermis melanocytes (NHEM) and human melanoma HMV-II cells within a non-cytotoxicity dose range. As compared with two whitening agents, arbutin and L-ascorbic acid, Radical Sponge demonstrated the stronger anti-melanogenic potential according to spectrophotometric quantification for extracted melanin. In human skin cultures also, UVA-promoted melanin contents were repressed by Radical Sponge according to Fontana-Masson stain, suggesting its ability to repress UVA-induced tanning. Transmission electron microscopic ultrastructural images also proved that UVA-increased melanosomes in human skin tissue were obviously reduced by Radical Sponge. The UVA-enhanced tyrosinase enzymatic activity in NHEM melanocytes was inhibited by Radical Sponge more markedly than by arbutin and L-ascorbic acid. The UVA-enhanced tyrosinase protein expression, together with cell-size fatness and dendrite-formation, was also inhibited more markedly by Radical Sponge according to immunostain and flow cytometry using anti-tyrosinase antibody. Thus the depigmentating action of Radical Sponge might be due to its down-regulating effect on the tyrosinase expression, which is initiated by UVA-caused ROS generation.

New strategies of photoprotection

Adequate photoprotection is essential to control UV-related disorders, including sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenisis. Sun avoidance, protection of skin with clothing, and sunscreens are presently the best way of photoprotection, assuming that they are used properly. However, new strategies, which are based on or make use of the endogenous protective response to UV light, may further improve currently used photoprotective means. The addition of repair enzymes and/or antioxidants has a positive effect on skin's recovery from UV-induced DNA-damage. Several botanical agents, mainly vitamins and polyphenols, have shown to influence signal transduction pathways leading to photoprotective effects. Also stimulation of endogenous UV-response pathways via irradiation with a low UV dose or via simulation of UV-induced DNA-damage results in photoprotective effects. Future research in this field and combination of different photoprotective strategies will hopefully lead to improved photoprotection.

Photoprotection

Many agents affect the transmission of ultraviolet light to human skin. These include naturally occurring photoprotective agents (ozone, pollutants, clouds, and fog), naturally occurring biologic agents (epidermal chromophores), physical photoprotective agents (clothing, hats, make-ups, sunglasses, and window glass), and ultraviolet light filters (sunscreen ingredients and sunless tanning agents). In addition, there are agents that can modulate the effects of ultraviolet light on the skin (antioxidants and others). All of the above are reviewed in this article.

LEARNING OBJECTIVE

At the conclusion of this learning activity, participants should be able to provide an overview of all aspects of photoprotection.

Dissection of Melanogenesis with Small Molecules Identifies Prohibitin as a Regulator

Bioactive compounds can be used to selectively modulate gene function. We utilized a chemical genetic approach to dissect the mammalian pigmentation pathway and identify protein regulators. We screened a tagged library of 1170 small molecules in a cell-based assay and discovered a class of pigment-enhancing chemicals. From this class we characterized the small molecule melanogenin. Using melanogenin bound to an affinity matrix and amino acid sequencing, we identified the mitochondrial protein, prohibitin, as an intracellular binding target. Studies employing siRNA demonstrate that prohibitin is required for melanogenin to exert its propigmentary effects and reveal an unsuspected functional role for this protein in melanin induction. This represents a mechanism by which propigmentary signals are transduced and ultimately provides a potential target for the treatment of pigmentary disorders.

Ocular Melanogenesis: The Role of Antioxidants

Given the propensity of a large number of melanogenic pathways that can be modulated by cellular redox status, a causal role of the deficiency of ocular pigments such as melanin in the pathogenesis of age-related macular degeneration and evidence that melanin production does occur in the adult eye, it seems not improbable that antioxidants (or agents that modify cellular redox status) may have melanin stimulatory (or inhibitory) effects that are superimposible on their effects as mere free radical scavengers. More empirical studies are needed to investigate this phenomenon so that antioxidant therapy may prove more beneficial to patients with ocular degenerative diseases.

Correction of defective early tyrosinase processing by bafilomycin A1 and monensin in pink-eyed dilution melanocytes

Mutations in the human P gene result in oculocutaneous albinism type 2, the most common form of albinism. Mouse melan-p1 melanocytes, cultured from mice null at the homologous pink-eyed dilution (p) locus, exhibit defective melanin production. A variety of compounds including tyrosine, NH4Cl, bafilomycin A1, concanamycin, monensin, and nigericin are capable of restoring melanin synthesis in these cells. In the current study, we investigated the subcellular effects of bafilomycin A1 and monensin treatment of melan-p1 cells. Both agents play two roles in the processing of tyrosinase (Tyr) in melan-p1 cells. First, combined glycosidase digestion and immunoblotting analysis showed that these agents reduce levels of Tyr retained in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) and facilitate the release of Tyr from the ER to the Golgi. Secondly, treatment with these compounds resulted in the stabilization of Tyr. Surprisingly, induction of melanin synthesis corresponds more closely with diminution of ER-retained Tyr, rather than the absolute amount of Tyr. Our results suggest that bafilomycin A1 and monensin induce melanin synthesis in melan-p1 cells mainly by facilitating Tyr processing from the ER to the Golgi by increasing the pH in either the ER or the ER-Golgi intermediate compartment.

Effects of a melanogenic bicyclic monoterpene diol on cell cycle, p53, TNF-alpha, and PGE2 are distinct from those of UVB

PURPOSE

Bicyclic monoterpene (BMT) diols are small-molecule compounds that mimic ultraviolet radiation (UVR) by inducing melanogenesis. The objective of this study was to compare the effects of 2,2-dimethyl-3-propanyldiol-norbornane (AGI-1140), a novel BMT diol, and ultraviolet B (UVB) on additional cellular responses.

METHODS

S91 mouse melanoma cells were treated with a range of concentrations of AGI-1140, and examined for induction of melanogenesis and nitric oxide (NO). The effect of AGI-1140 on dendrite outgrowth from human melanocytes was examined by quantitative microscopy. The effect of AGI-1140 and UVB on phosphorylation of p53 serine 15 in human keratinocytes was examined by Western blotting, while the release of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) was determined by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. The effects of AGI-1140 and UVB on cell cycle arrest of human melanocytes, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells were compared using fluorescence-activated cell sorting.

RESULTS

Similar to UVB, AGI-1140 induced both melanogenesis and NO in melanoma cells. AGI-1140 also induced dendrite outgrowth from melanocytes, indicative of differentiation. However, whereas UVB induced G2 cell cycle arrest with phosphorylation of p53 at serine 15, AGI-1140 induced G1 cell cycle arrest without this phosphorylation. Additionally, unlike UVB, AGI-1140 did not increase the secretion of TNF-alpha or PGE2, mediators of UVB-induced immunosuppressive and inflammatory responses in the skin that may contribute to carcinogenesis.

CONCLUSION

This study shows that melanogenesis can be induced by AGI-1140 without many of the deleterious effects associated with UVB.