Re-emergence of topical retinol in dermatology

Topical Products for the Aging Face

This article focuses on nonprescription home-use topical treatment technologies for the aging face and is intended to serve as a guide for the core cosmeceutical technologies currently used and to help educate and assist the selection of topical antiaging products by the professional staff and their patients. Antiaging topical treatments for patient home use should be nonirritating, compatible with the patient skin type, effective, and complementary to surgical and minimally invasive office procedures, and aesthetically elegant. New topical antiaging technologies, formulated as monotherapy or as combinations with well-known cosmeceuticals, should present adequate clinical studies to support their selection for use.

Influence of the complex of retinol-vitamin C on skin surface lipids

BACKGROUND

Retinol is used to reduce symptoms of skin aging. It affects surface lipids and increases skin regeneration ability.

AIM

The aim of our study was to investigate the effect of retinol peel on the face and neck skin lipids in women, aged 50-69.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The level of secreted sebum was measured using Sebumeter SM15 (Courage & Khazaka, Germany) on the forehead, cheeks, nose, chin, and neck. The measurements were carried out before each of the 3 retinol peel treatments applied at 3-week interval and 3 weeks after the last treatment.

RESULTS

A statistically significant increase of lipid film in both U-zone and T-zone and on the neck was observed in the study group.

CONCLUSION

Retinol peel treatments can help to increase the amount of skin surface lipids in women during menopause.

Incorporating a medical spa into a physician-run practice

The age-old spa concept is no less valuable today than it was during the time of Julius Caesar. Over the centuries, there have been many iterations of the concept of the spa. The most recent is the medical spa, which has become the fastest-growing segment of the spa industry. Many physicians including dermatologists wish to incorporate a medical spa into their practices. This article discusses the key elements that should be considered to make this venture successful.

Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy

Skin lightening preparations are widely used in dermatology by persons of all Fitzpatrick skin types. Fitzpatrick skin types I-III require local pigment lightening for the treatment of hormonally induced melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne and trauma. Fitzpatrick skin types IV and darker have an even greater need for skin lightening for social reasons, as well as pigmentary changes that occur around the eyes, in the intertriginous areas, following dermatitis, or with acne and trauma. The gold standard dermatologic agent for skin lightening was hydroquinone, until regulatory agencies in Japan, Europe, and most recently in the United States questioned the safety of this substance. This has encouraged research into alternative agents to inhibit skin pigmentation such as retinoids, mequinol, azelaic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, aleosin, licorice extract, ascorbic acid, soy proteins, and N-acetyl glucosamine. The efficacy and safety of each of these ingredients is examined as possible topical alternatives to hydroquinone.

Review of photorejuvenation: devices, cosmeceuticals, or both?

BACKGROUND

Both the public and the medical profession have placed a lot of attention on reversal of signs of aging and photodamage, resulting in numerous cosmeceutical products and nonablative laser techniques designed to achieve these results.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this report is to briefly review both the cosmeceutical products and nonablative laser techniques that appear to be most promising based on published studies. After this review, recommendations for potential enhancement of benefits by combining cosmeceuticals and laser treatments will be explored.

RESULTS

Pulsed dye lasers targeting microvessels, intense pulsed light targeting both melanin and microvessels, and midinfrared lasers targeting dermal water and collagen all appear to have some ability to improve skin texture, color, and wrinkling. Retinoids, vitamin C, alpha-hydroxy acids, and topical growth factors may also stimulate repair mechanisms that result in similar improvements in photodamaged skin.

CONCLUSION

Although supported only by theoretic considerations and anecdotal reports, it seems logical that the concurrent use of appropriate cosmeceuticals with nonablative laser photorejuvenation should result in enhanced benefits.

Novel approach to the treatment of hyperpigmented photodamaged skin: 4% hydroquinone/0.3% retinol versus tretinoin 0.05% emollient cream

BACKGROUND

Mild to moderately photodamaged skin is characterized by dyspigmentation, fine wrinkles, and tactile roughness. An optimal approach to the topical treatment of photoaging would simultaneously address all appearance issues.

OBJECTIVE

This study was undertaken to evaluate the effect of 4% hydroquinone and 0.3% retinol in photoaging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A 16-week study was designed to evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of a single cream containing prescription topical 4% hydroquinone for dyspigmentation and the cosmeceutical 0.3% retinol for fine wrinkles in an emollient vehicle for tactile roughness. This novel formulation was compared with 0.05% tretinoin emollient cream, the standard against which all other topical photoaging treatments are compared. Investigator assessments, subject assessments, and photography represented the evaluation end points.

RESULTS

The cosmeceutical emollient 4% hydroquinone/0.3% retinol cream more effectively diminished the collective signs of photodamage than 0.05% tretinoin emollient cream in terms of dyspigmentation, fine wrinkles, and tactile roughness in 16 weeks.

CONCLUSION

Combination therapy of hydroquinone and retinol may improve photoaging-associated hyperpigmentation.