Formulation and evaluation of a vitamin C multiple emulsion

Understand the Stabilization Engineering of Ascorbic Acid, Mapping the Scheme for Stabilization, and Advancement

Vitamin C is extensively used in cosmetic formulation, howbeit stability is the supreme demerit that limits its use in beautifying products. Numerous techniques are being employed to inhibit the degradation of vitamin C caused by formulation components to facilitate the use in skin rejuvenating products. Diverse materials are being exercised in formulation to stabilize the ascorbic acid and ingredients selected in this formulation composition help for stabilization. The initial stable prototype is developed and further optimization is accomplished by applying the design of experiment tools. The stable pharmaceutical formulations were evaluated for the evaluation parameters and designated as two optimized formulations. The analytical method for the assay of ascorbic acid from the United States pharmacopeia and the related substance method from European pharmacopeia has been modified to be used for cream formulation. The DoE design exhibited that the stability of formulation is impacted by citric acid and tartaric acid but not by propylene glycol and glycerin. The analysis results of topical formulations for the evaluation parameter exhibited satisfactory results. The in-vitro release study method has been developed, optimized, and validated to fit the analysis. The in-vitro studies have been performed for selected compositions and both the formulation has similar kinds of release patterns. The stability study as per ICH guidelines exhibited that the product is stable for accelerated, intermediate, and room-temperature storage conditions. The optimized formulation shows constant release and permeation of ascorbic acid through the skin. The formulation with the combinations of citric acid, tartaric acid, and tocopherol is more stable and the degradation of vitamin C has been reduced significantly. The beaucoup strategies in the unique composition help to protect the degradation by inhibiting the multitudinous degradation pathways.

Novel Arena of Nanocosmetics: Applications and their Remarkable Contribution in the Management of Dermal Disorders, Topical Delivery, Future Trends and Challenges

Nanocosmetics have attracted a considerable audience towards natural care due to their low cost, target-specific delivery, and reduced toxicity compared to chemical-based cosmetics. Nanofomulations, including nanoemulsions, nanotubes, and polymeric carriers, have become next-generation products explored for the multifaced applications of nanotechnology in skin care. The rise in the cosmetic industry demands innovative and personalized products designed using nanocarriers for better targeting and improving patient compliance. Furthermore, nanocosmetics increase the efficiency of skin permeation active ingredient entrapment, providing better UV protection. Moreover, it offers controlled drug release, targeting active sites and enhancing physical stability. Further, overcoming the drawback of penetration problems makes them sustainable formulations for precision medicine. Skincare nourishment with nanocosmetics using Indian spices helps to maintain, beautify, and rejuvenate human skin. Nanophytopharmaceuticals extracted from plants, including alkaloids, flavonoids, antioxidants, and volatile oils, are essential phyto-products for skin care. Nano herbals and nanocosmetics are a growing market and gift of nature that nourishes and cures skin ailments like acne, pemphigus, anti-aging, albinism, psoriasis, and fungal infections. The emerging concern is highlighted in the investigation of nanoformulation toxicity and safety concerns in skin care. Further, it helps to manifest research, development, and innovation in expanding the scope of herbal industries.

Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment

The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid.

Derivatives of L-Ascorbic Acid in Emulgel: Development and Comprehensive Evaluation of the Topical Delivery System

The dual controlled release of emulgels makes them efficient drug delivery systems of increasing interest. The framework of this study was to incorporate selected L-ascorbic acid derivatives into emulgels. From the formulated emulgels, the release profiles of actives were evaluated considering their different polarities and concentrations, and consequently their effectiveness on the skin via a long-term in vivo study that lasted for 30 days was determined. Skin effects were assessed by measuring the electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum (EC), trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index (MI) and skin pH. In addition, the sensory and textural properties of emulgel formulations were compared with each other. The changes in the rate of the release of the L-ascorbic acid derivatives were monitored using the Franz diffusion cells. The obtained data were statistically significant, and indicated an increase in the degree of hydration of the skin and skin whitening potential, while no significant changes in TEWL and pH values were detected. The consistency, firmness and stickiness of the emulgels were estimated by volunteers applying the established sensory evaluation protocol. In addition, it was revealed that the difference in hydrophilic/lipophilic properties of L-ascorbic acid derivatives influenced their release profiles without changing their textural characteristics. Therefore, this study highlighted emulgels as L-ascorbic acid suitable carrier systems and one of the promising candidates as novel drug delivery systems.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Stimuli-Responsive Pickering Emulsions Regulated via Polymerization-Induced Self-Assembly Nanoparticles

With the development of reversible deactivated radical polymerization techniques, polymerization-induced self-assembly (PISA) is emerging as a facile method to prepare block copolymer nanoparticles in situ with high concentrations, providing wide potential applications in different fields, including nanomedicine, coatings, nanomanufacture, and Pickering emulsions. Polymeric emulsifiers synthesized by PISA have many advantages comparing with conventional nanoparticle emulsifiers. The morphologies, size, and amphiphilicity can be readily regulated via the synthetic process, post-modification, and external stimuli. By introducing stimulus responsiveness into PISA nanoparticles, Pickering emulsions stabilized with these nanoparticles can be endowed with "smart" behaviors. The emulsions can be regulated in reversible emulsification and demulsification. In this review, the authors focus on recent progress on Pickering emulsions stabilized by PISA nanoparticles with stimuli-responsiveness. The factors affecting the stability of emulsions during emulsification and demulsification are discussed in details. Furthermore, some viewpoints for preparing stimuli-responsive emulsions and their applications in antibacterial agents, diphase reaction platforms, and multi-emulsions are discussed as well. Finally, the future developments and applications of stimuli-responsive Pickering emulsions stabilized by PISA nanoparticles are highlighted.

Improved stability of liposome-stabilized emulsions as coencapsulation delivery system for vitamin B2, vitamin E and β-carotene

To realize the co-encapsulation of multiple nutraceuticals with different solubilities, Pickering emulsions stabilized by freshly-prepared liposome suspension stabilized emulsion (Fre-Lip-Sus-E) and hydrated lyophilized liposome stabilized emulsion (Hyd-Lyo-Lip-E) were prepared, in...

Topical delivery of l-ascorbic acid spanlastics for stability enhancement and treatment of UVB induced damaged skin

l-Ascorbic acid (LAA) is considered a powerful antioxidant that protects skin from premature aging. Maintaining the stability of vitamin C remains the biggest challenge in cosmeceuticals. Our main aim is the entrapment of high dose of vitamin C in spanlastic vesicles to provide maximum stability and efficacy. LAA-loaded spanlastics were prepared by ethanol injection method and were characterized for entrapment efficiency (EE%), particles size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential, deformability index (DI) and in vivo skin permeation. Selected spanlastics formula composed of span 60 and tween 60 (5:1) showed highest EE% of 89.77 ± 3.61% (w/w), high deformability of 11.13 ± 1.145 as well as good physical and chemical stability for 6 months. Improved drug penetration into stratum corneum (SC) was obtained from spanlastics compared to topical LAA solution. Quantitative real time PCR revealed that MMP2 and MMP9 levels were significantly suppressed in response to LAA spanlastics treated rats by 30.4% and 65.3%, respectively, when compared to the control group after exposure to UV irradiation. Results were confirmed by western blot analysis. Histopathological study of rat skin after UV irradiation revealed that application of LAA-loaded spanlastics provided the highest skin protection compared to UVB and LAA solution treated group which was evident by the normal thick epidermal morphology and the densely arranged dermal collagen fibers. LAA-loaded spanlastics successfully improved LAA stability, skin permeation and antioxidant protection against skin photodamage.

Evaluating the Aging of Multiple Emulsions Using Resonance-Enhanced Multiphoton Ionization Time-of-Flight Mass Spectrometry

Resonance-enhanced multiphoton ionization time-of-flight mass spectrometry was applied to measurements of multiple emulsions with no pretreatment; a method for the quantitative evaluation of aging was proposed. We prepared water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions containing toluene and m-phenylenediamine. The samples were measured immediately following both preparation and after having been stirred for 24 h. Time profiles of the peak areas for each analyte species were obtained, and several intense spikes for toluene could be detected from each sample after stirring, which suggests that the concentration of toluene in the middle phase had increased during stirring. On the other hand, in the case of a W/O/W multiple emulsion containing phenol and m-phenylenediamine, spikes for m-phenylenediamine, rather than phenol, were detected after stirring. In the present study, the time-profile data were converted into a scatter plot in order to quantitatively evaluate the aging. As a result, the ratio of the plots where strong signal intensities of toluene were detected increased from 8.4% before stirring to 33.2% after stirring for 24 h. The present method could be a powerful tool for evaluating multiple emulsions, such as studies on the kinetics of the encapsulation and release of active ingredients.

Ascorbic acid increases the activity and synthesis of tyrosinase in B16F10 cells through activation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase

Ascorbic acid, a potential antioxidant, is known to inhibit melanogenesis. However, there are conflicting findings that ascorbic acid has very low stability and acts as a pro-oxidant, eventually increasing proliferation and melanin content in melanoma cells. In the present study, we explored the effects of ascorbic acid on the activity and expression of tyrosinase and melanin pigmentation in the presence and absence of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) using B16F10 melanoma cells. The mechanism by which ascorbic acid stimulated the expression of tyrosinase was also investigated. No inhibitory effect on melanin content was observed in ascorbic acid-treated cells, regardless of the presence of α-MSH. Ascorbic acid stimulated the activity and expression of tyrosinase and increased the expression of melanogenic regulatory factors, such as tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), dihydroxyphenylalaminechrome tautomerase (TRP-2), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Ascorbic acid also induced phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK). The inhibition of p38 MAPK pathway by SB203580 led to the suppression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 expression in cells treated with ascorbic acid. Combined treatment with N-acetyl-L: -cysteine and/or desferrioxamine mesylate attenuated the stimulating effect of ascorbic acid on tyrosinase activation in the cells. Collectively, ascorbic acid stimulates tyrosinase activity and expression in B16F10 cells via activation of p38 MAPK signaling and subsequent up-regulation of MITF, tyrosinase, and TRP expression.

Main approaches for delivering antioxidant vitamins through the skin to prevent skin ageing

INTRODUCTION

One of the major contributions to skin photoageing and diseases is oxidative stress, caused by UV radiation inducing reactive oxygen and nitrogen species. Successful prophylaxis and therapy would necessitate control of the oxidant/antioxidant balance at the affected site, which can be achieved through the external supply of endogenous antioxidants.

AREAS COVERED

This review discusses possible strategies for dermal delivery of the antioxidant vitamins E and C, as oral supplementation has proved insufficient. These antioxidants have low skin bioavailability, owing to their poor solubility, inefficient skin permeability, or instability during storage. These drawbacks can be overcome by various approaches, such as chemical modification of the vitamins and the use of new colloidal drug delivery systems. New knowledge is included about the importance of: enhancing the endogenous skin antioxidant defense through external supply; the balance between various skin antioxidants; factors that can improve the skin bioavailability of antioxidants; and new delivery systems, such as microemulsions, used to deliver vitamins C and E into the skin simultaneously.

EXPERT OPINION

A promising strategy for enhancing skin protection from oxidative stress is to support the endogenous antioxidant system, with antioxidants containing products that are normally present in the skin.

Novel vitamin and gold-loaded nanofiber facial mask for topical delivery

L-ascorbic acid has been widely used in cosmetic and dermatological products because of its ability to scavenge free radicals and destroy oxidizing agents. However, it is chemically unstable and can easily be oxidized. The current cosmetic facial masks available in the market are pre-moistened, which means that the aqueous fluid content of the mask may oxidize some of the unstable active ingredients such as ascorbic acid. This work presents an anti-wrinkle nanofiber face mask containing ascorbic acid, retinoic acid, gold nanoparticles, and collagen. This novel face mask will only be wetted when applied to the skin, thus enhancing product stability. Once moistened, the content of the mask will gradually dissolve and release the active ingredients and ensure maximum skin penetration. The high surface area-to-volume ratio of the nanofiber mask will ensure maximum contact with the skin surface and help to enhance the skin permeation to restore its healthy appearance. Electrospun fiber mats may provide an attractive alternative to the commercial facial cotton masks.

Rheological and droplet size analysis of W/O/W multiple emulsions containing low concentrations of polymeric emulsifiers

Multiple emulsions are complex dispersion systems which have many potential applications in pharmaceutics, cosmetics and the food industry. In practice, however, significant problems may arise because of their thermodynamic instability. In this study, W/O/W multiple emulsion systems containing low concentration levels of lipophilic polymeric primary emulsifiers cetyl dimethicone copolyol and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate were evaluated. The concentrations of the primary emulsifiers were set at 1.6 and 2.4 % w/w in the final emulsions. Rheological and droplet size analysis of the investigated samples showed that the type and concentration of the primary lipophilic polymeric emulsifier markedly affected the characteristics of the multiple emulsions. The multiple emulsion prepared with 2.4 % w/w PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate as the primary emulsifier exhibited the highest apparent viscosity, yield stress and elastic modulus values, as well as the smallest droplet size. Furthermore, these parameters remained relatively constant over the study period, confirming the high stability of the investigated sample. The results obtained indicate that the changes observed in the investigated samples over time could be attributed to the swelling/breakdown mechanism of the multiple droplets. Such changes could be adequately monitored by rheological and droplet size analysis.

Role of novel delivery systems in developing topical antioxidants as therapeutics to combat photoageing

Ageing proceeds by highly complicated biochemical processes, in which the involvement of the reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals has been implicated. Reactive oxygen species are dramatically enhanced by exposure to the ultraviolet radiation. Free radical scavengers and antioxidants can thus provide a long-term protection against these changes. Currently, dermaceutical and cosmetic industry is growing immensely with its main focus on packaging the active into a suitable/novel delivery system. This not only enhances the customer acceptance but offers better targeting to the upper skin layer, with faster onset, at a lower concentration of the active. Later also counter toxic or adverse effects observed with large doses especially when administered orally. Several of the antioxidant molecules are labile to degradation in the presence of oxygen, water and light, hence it becomes all the more appropriate to use a delivery system which will augment their stability and hence enhance the performance. In the present review, we focus on the pioneering research on novel delivery systems which can promote the therapeutic value of antioxidants for combating UV-induced photoageing.

Photoinduced Electron Transfer between the Cationic Complexes Ru(NH3)5pz2+andtrans-RuCl([15]aneN4)NO2+Mediated by Phosphate Ion: Visible Light Generation of Nitric Oxide for Biological Targets†

The photochemical behavior of the tetraazamacrocyclic complex trans-RuCl([15]ane)(NO)2+ (RuNO2+) in a 10 mM phosphate buffer solution, pH 7.4, and in the presence of Ru(NH3)5pz2+ (Rupz2+) is reported. Irradiation (436 nm) of an aqueous solution containing both cationic complexes as PF6- salts labilizes NO from RuNO2+ with a quantum yield (phiNO) dependent on the concentration of Rupz2+ with a maximum value of phiNO (1.03(11)x10(-3) einstein mol-1) found for a solution with equimolar concentrations (5x10(-5) M) of the two complexes in phosphate buffer solution. The quantitative behavior of this system suggests that the two cations undergo preassociation such that photoexcitation of the visible absorbing Rupz2+ is followed by electron or energy transfer to RuNO2+, which does not absorb appreciably at the excitation wavelength, and this leads to NO release from the reduced nitrosyl complex. Notably, the NO release was not seen in the absence of phosphate buffer; thus, it appears that phosphate ions mediate NO generation, perhaps by facilitating formation of a supramolecular complex between the two ruthenium cations. Reexamination of the cyclic voltammetry of Rupz2+ showed that the electrochemical behavior of this species is also affected by the presence of the phosphate buffer.