1
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Mambwe B, Mellody KT, Kiss O, O'Connor C, Bell M, Watson REB, Langton AK. Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024. [PMID: 39128883 DOI: 10.1111/ics.13013] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/14/2024] [Revised: 07/22/2024] [Accepted: 07/22/2024] [Indexed: 08/13/2024]
Abstract
The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Bezaleel Mambwe
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
| | - Kieran T Mellody
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
| | - Orsolya Kiss
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
| | - Clare O'Connor
- No7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance, Nottingham, UK
| | - Mike Bell
- No7 Beauty Company, Walgreens Boots Alliance, Nottingham, UK
| | - Rachel E B Watson
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
- A*STAR Skin Research Laboratory (A*SRL), Agency for Science, Technology and Research (A*STAR), Singapore City, Singapore
| | - Abigail K Langton
- Centre for Dermatology Research, Salford Royal NHS Foundation Trust, Manchester Academic Health Science Centre, The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK
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2
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Zhong J, Zhao N, Song Q, Du Z, Shu P. Topical retinoids: Novel derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, and combinations to improve chemical instability and skin irritation. J Cosmet Dermatol 2024. [PMID: 38952060 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16415] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/21/2023] [Revised: 04/17/2024] [Accepted: 05/24/2024] [Indexed: 07/03/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Retinoids, defined as synthetic or natural derivatives of vitamin A, have been extensively studied as anti-aging molecules that are widely applied in cosmetics. However, due to their physicochemical property, retinoids are highly unstable and extremely sensitive to light, oxygen, and temperature. Moreover, topical application of retinoids often leads to cutaneous irritation. These instabilities and irritant properties of retinoids limit their application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. AIM Our study aimed to provide a systematic review to summarize the mechanisms underlying the instability and irritant properties of retinoids, as well as recent developments in addressing these challenges. METHODS A comprehensive PubMed search was conducted using the following keywords: retinoids, chemical instability, skin irritation, retinoid derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, liposomes, penetration-enhancer vesicles, ethosomes, niosomes, nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, vitamins, soothing and hydrating agents, antioxidants and metal chelator and retinol combinations. Relevant researches published between 1968 and 2023 and studies related to these reports were reviewed. RESULTS The development of new retinoid derivatives, the utilization of new delivery systems like nano lipid-based carriers and the combination with other compounds like vitamins, soothing agents, antioxidants and metal chelator have been explored to improve the stability, bioavailability, and toxicity of the retinoid family. CONCLUSIONS Through advancements in formulation techniques, structure modification of retinoid derivatives and development of novel nano lipid-based carriers, the chemical instability and skin irritation of retinoids has been mitigated, ensuring their efficacy and potency over extended periods.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jiangming Zhong
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen, Guangdong, China
| | - Nan Zhao
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen, Guangdong, China
| | - Qingle Song
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen, Guangdong, China
| | - Zhiyun Du
- State Key Laboratory Basis of Xinjiang Indigenous Medicinal Plants Resource Utilization, CAS Key Laboratory of Chemistry of Plant Resources in Arid Regions, Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
- School of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Guangdong University of Technology, Guangzhou, Guangdong, China
| | - Peng Shu
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen, Guangdong, China
- State Key Laboratory Basis of Xinjiang Indigenous Medicinal Plants Resource Utilization, CAS Key Laboratory of Chemistry of Plant Resources in Arid Regions, Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing, China
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3
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Shu P, Mo J, Li Z, Li M, Zhu W, Du Z. Ferulic acid in synergy with retinol alleviates oxidative injury of HaCaT cells during UVB-induced photoaging. Aging (Albany NY) 2024; 16:7153-7173. [PMID: 38643459 PMCID: PMC11087097 DOI: 10.18632/aging.205749] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/06/2023] [Accepted: 02/20/2024] [Indexed: 04/22/2024]
Abstract
Application of retinol (Vitamin A, VA) in skincare is limited for instability, poor water solubility, and skin intolerance that combats skin aging. We employed computer-aided virtual screening and cell experiments with transcriptomics, thereby unveiling the comprehensive gene expression and regulation pathway of photoaging HaCaT cell treated with ferulic acid (FA) in synergizing with VA. Through network pharmacology analysis, the combined use of VA and FA exhibited highly correlated cross-targets with skin aging acting on EGFR, PTPN1, ESR2, GSK3B, BACE1, PYGL, PTGS2 and APP. The indicators of oxidative stress, such as SOD, GSH, MDA, CAT and ROS in HaCaT cells after co-administration, were significantly improved from those in photoaging group (p<0.0001). 155 differential expressed genes (DEGs) were specific between groups, while reducing the expression of PTGS2 was identified as an important regulatory factor in photoaging HaCaT cells by VA and FA. Those DEGs of co-administration group focused on oxidative-reduction enzyme activity, skin growth, keratinization, and steroid biosynthesis. Apparently, the co-administration of VA and FA effectively mitigated the process of UVB-induced photoaging by reducing oxidative stress injury, inflammation responses, and regulating cell growth. This synergistic approach significantly slowed down the photoaging progression and improved the applied performance of VA in HaCaT cells.
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Affiliation(s)
- Peng Shu
- State Key Laboratory Basis of Xinjiang Indigenous Medicinal Plants Resource Utilization, CAS Key Laboratory of Chemistry of Plant Resources in Arid Regions, Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Urumqi 830011, Xinjiang, P.R. China
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen 518000, Guangdong, P.R. China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, P.R. China
| | - Jiaxin Mo
- The Second Clinical College, Guangzhou University of Chinese Medicine, Guangzhou 510006, Guangdong, P.R. China
| | - Zunjiang Li
- The Second Clinical College, Guangzhou University of Chinese Medicine, Guangzhou 510006, Guangdong, P.R. China
| | - Mingjie Li
- HBN Research Institute and Biological Laboratory, Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co., Ltd., Shenzhen 518000, Guangdong, P.R. China
| | - Wei Zhu
- The Second Clinical College, Guangzhou University of Chinese Medicine, Guangzhou 510006, Guangdong, P.R. China
- Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory of Clinical Research on Traditional Chinese Medicine Syndrome, Guangzhou 510006, Guangdong, P.R. China
| | - Zhiyun Du
- State Key Laboratory Basis of Xinjiang Indigenous Medicinal Plants Resource Utilization, CAS Key Laboratory of Chemistry of Plant Resources in Arid Regions, Xinjiang Technical Institute of Physics and Chemistry, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Urumqi 830011, Xinjiang, P.R. China
- University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, P.R. China
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4
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Huang X, Chang Q, Gao JH, Lu F. Sustained Release Microneedles: Materials and Applications in Facial Rejuvenation. TISSUE ENGINEERING. PART B, REVIEWS 2023. [PMID: 36200631 DOI: 10.1089/ten.teb.2022.0131] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/05/2022]
Abstract
Wrinkled and loose skin resulting from collagen degradation along with fibers decreasing reflects the youth diminishing. Microneedles (MNs) have opened up new avenues for the development of painless and noninvasive transdermal drug delivery systems for facial rejuvenation. Encapsulated drugs or molecules are transmitted to targeted tissues via percutaneous microchannels, which eliminate potential gastric stimulation or first-pass metabolic effects, as well as boost patient compliance. Although MNs are considered effective and feasible therapeutic alternatives to metals, silicon, and polymers, traditional procedures with reduction processes continue to encounter methodological limitations. In recent years, promising additive manufacturing processes such as three-dimensional printing and two-photon polymerization manufacturing have been developed with the aim of overcoming the limitations by traditional processes to facilitate an efficient and economic production mode. This review summarizes the design, material selection, and manufacturing method for recently advanced MN systems. Furthermore, we also highlight specific polymeric or natural microneedle products, like hyaluronan, plant derivates, and vitamins, for esthetic applications in this review. Impact Statement In this review, the materials and manufactural routes of microneedles (MNs) are detailed. Moreover, similar to the diagnostic or therapeutic MNs, the feature of dispensation with training and ready-to-use is perfect for beautification and anti-aging, which necessitate repeated and long-term usage. Furthermore, the specific polymeric or natural products for esthetic applications of MNs are highlighted in this review.
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Affiliation(s)
- Xiaoqi Huang
- Department of Plastic and Reconstruction Surgery, Nanfang Hospital, Southern Medical University, Guangzhou, China
| | - Qiang Chang
- Department of Plastic and Reconstruction Surgery, Nanfang Hospital, Southern Medical University, Guangzhou, China
| | - Jian-Hua Gao
- Department of Plastic and Reconstruction Surgery, Nanfang Hospital, Southern Medical University, Guangzhou, China
| | - Feng Lu
- Department of Plastic and Reconstruction Surgery, Nanfang Hospital, Southern Medical University, Guangzhou, China
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5
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Yao YZ, Liao ZK, Jiang S, Dong BQ, Luo LF, Miao F, Lei TC. Uncoupling melanogenesis from proliferation in epidermal melanocytes responding to stimulation with psoriasis-related proinflammatory cytokines. J Dermatol Sci 2022; 108:98-108. [PMID: 36577564 DOI: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2022.11.005] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/27/2022] [Revised: 11/17/2022] [Accepted: 11/23/2022] [Indexed: 12/23/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Few studies have addressed the impact of the psoriasis-related proinflammatory cytokines on the proliferation and melanogenesis of melanocytes (MCs) in lesional psoriatic skin. OBJECTIVE We investigated the effects of TNFα, IL17A, and IL8 on the proliferation and melanin synthesis of MCs. METHODS Skin specimens were biopsied from patients with psoriasis vulgaris at the active stage, or from the tail skin of Dct-LacZ mice with imiquimod (IMQ)-induced psoriasiform dermatitis. Cultured keratinocytes (KCs), MCs, and human skin explants were used in this study. The numbers of MCs were measured via β-galactosidase staining, EdU incorporation and HMB45 immunohistochemical staining. The expression of human β-defensin 3 (hBD3) in KCs was silenced by siRNA, the conditioned medium (CM) from siRNA-transfected KCs was used to treat MCs, then followed by αMSH stimulation. The melanogenesis-related genes were examined by using qRT-PCR and western blotting. RESULTS The increased number of MCs and decreased melanin content were highly relevant to the enhanced expression of IL8 and BD3 both in human psoriatic skin and in IMQ-treated mouse tail skin. IL8 expression in KCs and CXCR2 expression in MCs was significantly increased by IL17A and TNFα, the αMSH-induced upregulations of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase in MCs were abrogated by the CM from hBD3-unsilenced KCs, but not from hBD3-silenced KCs. CONCLUSION Our results suggest the roles of IL8-CXCR2 activation in promoting MC proliferation and of BD3 upregulation in reducing melanogenesis. These findings have been implicated in the underlying mechanism that active psoriasis prefers hypopigmentation despite chronic inflammation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yun-Zhu Yao
- Department of Dermatology, Renmin Hospital of Wuhan University, Wuhan, China
| | - Zhi-Kai Liao
- Department of Dermatology, Renmin Hospital of Wuhan University, Wuhan, China
| | - Shan Jiang
- Department of Dermatology, Renmin Hospital of Wuhan University, Wuhan, China
| | - Bing-Qi Dong
- Department of Dermatology, Renmin Hospital of Wuhan University, Wuhan, China
| | - Long-Fei Luo
- Department of Dermatology, Renmin Hospital of Wuhan University, Wuhan, China
| | - Fang Miao
- Department of Dermatology, Renmin Hospital of Wuhan University, Wuhan, China
| | - Tie-Chi Lei
- Department of Dermatology, Renmin Hospital of Wuhan University, Wuhan, China.
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6
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Carlos ECDS, Cristovão GA, Silva AA, Ribeiro BCDS, Romana‐Souza B. Imiquimod‐induced
ex vivo
model of psoriatic human skin via
interleukin‐17A
signaling of T cells and Langerhans cells. Exp Dermatol 2022; 31:1791-1799. [DOI: 10.1111/exd.14659] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/03/2022] [Revised: 07/22/2022] [Accepted: 08/09/2022] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
Affiliation(s)
| | | | - Alcimar Alves Silva
- Department of Histology and Embryology Rio de Janeiro State University Rio de Janeiro Brazil
| | | | - Bruna Romana‐Souza
- Department of Histology and Embryology Rio de Janeiro State University Rio de Janeiro Brazil
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7
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Zhang X, Wang M, Qiao Y, Shan Z, Yang M, Li G, Xiao Y, Wei L, Bi H, Gao T. Exploring the mechanisms of action of Cordyceps sinensis for the treatment of depression using network pharmacology and molecular docking. ANNALS OF TRANSLATIONAL MEDICINE 2022; 10:282. [PMID: 35434037 PMCID: PMC9011256 DOI: 10.21037/atm-22-762] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/12/2022] [Accepted: 03/04/2022] [Indexed: 11/19/2022]
Abstract
Background Depression is the most common type of psychological disorder, with continuous, prolonged, and persistent bad moods as the main clinical feature. Cordyceps sinensis is a complex consisting of the ascospores and bodies of insect larvae from the Hepialidae family that have been parasitized by Cordyceps sinensis militaris. Previous studies have reported that this herb has antidepressant activity. The present study used network pharmacology and molecular docking techniques to investigate the potential antidepressant mechanisms of Cordyceps sinensis. Methods The active ingredients of Cordycepssinensis were identified using the Traditional Chinese Medicine Systems Pharmacology Database and Analysis Platform (TCMSP) and the potential targets were predicted using the PharmMapper platform. The GeneCards database was then used to obtain sub-targets for depression. Common targets were screened and enrichment analyses were performed using the Metascape platform. Finally, the relationship between the active ingredients and the core targets were verified by molecular docking. Results Through network pharmacological analysis, 7 active ingredients in Cordyceps sinensis and 41 common targets of drugs and diseases were identified. The active ingredients of Cordyceps sinensis may exert antidepressant effects by acting on important targets such as catalase (CAT), CREB binding protein (CREBBP), epidermal growth factor (EGF), and E1A binding protein P300 (EP300), and by modulating the signaling pathways in which these targets are involved. Subsequently, the core targets were docked to the active ingredients and good binding was observed. Conclusions The active ingredients of Cordycepssinensis may exert antidepressant effects by regulating the CREB binding protein and anti-oxidative stress effects. The foxo signaling pathway (hsa04068), hypoxia-inducible factor 1 (HIF-1) signaling pathway (hsa04066), and Huntington’s disease (hsa05016) may be involved in the underlying mechanisms of Cordycepssinensis. The joint application of network pharmacology and molecular docking provides a new approach to study the mechanisms of action of traditional Chinese medicine. Cordyceps sinensis may play an important role in the future treatment of patients with depression.
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Affiliation(s)
- Xingfang Zhang
- Department of Psychiatry, The People's Hospital of Jiangmen, Southern Medical University, Jiangmen, China.,Qinghai Provincial Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Pharmacology and Safety Evaluation, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Xining, China.,Medical College, Qinghai University, Xining, China
| | | | - Yajun Qiao
- Qinghai Provincial Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Pharmacology and Safety Evaluation, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Xining, China
| | - Zhongshu Shan
- Department of Orthopedic Surgery, People's Hospital of Qinghai Province, Xining, China
| | - Mengmeng Yang
- Qinghai Provincial Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Pharmacology and Safety Evaluation, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Xining, China.,Medical College, Qinghai University, Xining, China
| | - Guoqiang Li
- Qinghai Provincial Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Pharmacology and Safety Evaluation, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Xining, China.,CAS Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Research, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Xining, China
| | - Yuancan Xiao
- Qinghai Provincial Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Pharmacology and Safety Evaluation, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Xining, China.,CAS Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Research, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Xining, China
| | - Lixin Wei
- CAS Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Research, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Xining, China
| | - Hongtao Bi
- Qinghai Provincial Key Laboratory of Tibetan Medicine Pharmacology and Safety Evaluation, Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Xining, China
| | - Tingting Gao
- Department of Psychiatry, The People's Hospital of Jiangmen, Southern Medical University, Jiangmen, China.,Department of Psychology, School of Public Health, Southern Medical University, Guangzhou, China
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8
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Milosheska D, Roškar R. Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Adv Ther 2022; 39:5351-5375. [PMID: 36220974 PMCID: PMC9618501 DOI: 10.1007/s12325-022-02319-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/17/2022] [Accepted: 09/06/2022] [Indexed: 01/30/2023]
Abstract
Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Robert Roškar
- University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Pharmacy, Aškerčeva cesta 7, 1000, Ljubljana, Slovenia.
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9
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Saguie BO, Martins RL, Fonseca ADSD, Romana-Souza B, Monte-Alto-Costa A. An ex vivo model of human skin photoaging induced by UVA radiation compatible with summer exposure in Brazil. JOURNAL OF PHOTOCHEMISTRY AND PHOTOBIOLOGY B-BIOLOGY 2021; 221:112255. [PMID: 34271412 DOI: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2021.112255] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/10/2020] [Revised: 06/23/2021] [Accepted: 07/04/2021] [Indexed: 01/02/2023]
Abstract
Skin is the largest body organ and can be affected by several factors, such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV radiation is subdivided in UVA, UVB and UVC according to the radiation wavelength. UVC radiation does not cross the ozone layer; UVB cause DNA damage and is closely related to carcinogenesis; UVA radiation penetrates deeply into the skin, reaching epidermis and dermis and is considered the main promoter of skin aging, known as photoaging. In order to understand photoaging mechanisms and propose efficient therapies, several photoaging study models have been developed, each with benefits and limitations, but most of them use very high doses of UVA radiation, which is not compatible with our daily sun exposure. The objective of this work was to develop a human ex vivo photoaging model induced by UVA exposure compatible to a summer in Brazil. For this, human skin fragments were obtained from healthy donors who underwent otoplasty surgery and skin explants were prepared and placed in plates, with the epidermis facing upwards. Skin explants were exposed to UVA at 16 J/cm2 carried out by protocols of 2 or 4 exposures. Results showed an increase of oxidative damage, inflammatory cells, collagenolytic and elastolytic MMPs expression as well as a decrease of elastin expression, suggesting that the experimental model based on skin explants is able to evaluate UVA-induced aging in human skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Bianca Oliveira Saguie
- Department of Histology and Embryology, Rio de Janeiro State University, Avenida Marechal Rondon, 381/HLA, 20950-003 Rio de Janeiro-RJ, Brazil
| | - Rayssa Lopes Martins
- Department of Histology and Embryology, Rio de Janeiro State University, Avenida Marechal Rondon, 381/HLA, 20950-003 Rio de Janeiro-RJ, Brazil
| | - Adenilson de Souza da Fonseca
- Department of Biophysics and Biometrics, Rio de Janeiro State University, Av Professor Manoel de Abreu 444, 20950-170 Rio de Janeiro-RJ, Brazil
| | - Bruna Romana-Souza
- Department of Histology and Embryology, Rio de Janeiro State University, Avenida Marechal Rondon, 381/HLA, 20950-003 Rio de Janeiro-RJ, Brazil
| | - Andréa Monte-Alto-Costa
- Department of Histology and Embryology, Rio de Janeiro State University, Avenida Marechal Rondon, 381/HLA, 20950-003 Rio de Janeiro-RJ, Brazil.
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10
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Park S, Kang S, Lee WJ. Menopause, Ultraviolet Exposure, and Low Water Intake Potentially Interact with the Genetic Variants Related to Collagen Metabolism Involved in Skin Wrinkle Risk in Middle-Aged Women. INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF ENVIRONMENTAL RESEARCH AND PUBLIC HEALTH 2021; 18:ijerph18042044. [PMID: 33669802 PMCID: PMC7922323 DOI: 10.3390/ijerph18042044] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/21/2020] [Revised: 01/31/2021] [Accepted: 02/11/2021] [Indexed: 12/03/2022]
Abstract
Genetic and environmental factors influence wrinkle development. We evaluated the polygenetic risk score (PRS) by pooling the selected single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) from a genome-wide association study (GWAS) for wrinkles and the interaction of PRS with lifestyle factors in middle-aged women. Under the supervision of a dermatologist, the skin status of 128 women aged over 40 years old was evaluated with Mark-Vu, a skin diagnosis system. PRS was generated from the selected SNPs for wrinkle risk from the genome-wide association study. Lifestyle interactions with PRS were also evaluated for wrinkle risk. Participants in the wrinkled group were more likely to be post-menopausal, eat less fruit, take fewer vitamin supplements, exercise less, and be more tired after awakening in the morning than those in the less-wrinkled group. The PRS included EGFR_rs1861003, MMP16_rs6469206, and COL17A1_rs805698. Subjects with high PRS had a wrinkle risk 15.39-fold higher than those with low PRS after adjusting for covariates, and they had a 10.64-fold higher risk of a large skin pore size. Menopause, UV exposure, and water intake interacted with PRS for wrinkle risk: the participants with high PRS had a much higher incidence of wrinkle risk than those with low PRS, only among post-menopausal women and those with UV exposure. Only with low water intake did the participants with medium PRS have increased wrinkle risk. In conclusion, women aged >40 years with high PRS-related collagen metabolism may possibly avoid wrinkle risk by avoiding UV exposure by applying sunscreen, maintaining sufficient water intake, and managing estrogen deficiency.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sunmin Park
- Department of Food and Nutrition, Obesity/Diabetes Research Center, Hoseo University, 165 Sechul-Ri, Baebang-Yup, Asan-Si, ChungNam-Do 336-795, Korea;
- Correspondence: ; Tel.: +82-41-540-5345; Fax: +82-41-548-0670
| | - Suna Kang
- Department of Food and Nutrition, Obesity/Diabetes Research Center, Hoseo University, 165 Sechul-Ri, Baebang-Yup, Asan-Si, ChungNam-Do 336-795, Korea;
| | - Woo Jae Lee
- City Dermatologic Clinic, Daejeon 34141, Korea;
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11
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Rorteau J, Chevalier FP, Fromy B, Lamartine J. [Functional integrity of aging skin, from cutaneous biology to anti-aging strategies]. Med Sci (Paris) 2020; 36:1155-1162. [PMID: 33296632 DOI: 10.1051/medsci/2020223] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/23/2022] Open
Abstract
The skin is a sentinel organ making easily visible the passing of time. Chronological and environmental aging weakens skin structure and functions. The skin barrier, the elastic and mechanical properties of the cutaneous tissue as well as its vascular reactivity are impacted by aging. The barrier dysfunction in aged skin is caused by defects in epidermal keratinocytes renewal and differentiation notably linked to abnormal expression of microRNAs regulating cell death and autophagy. An abnormal balance between synthesis and degradation of matrix proteins modifies the mechanical properties of the dermis in aged skin. Finally, a reduction of the vascular reactivity linked to endothelial dysfunctions is observed in elderly people. These biological processes can be targeted by therapeutic approaches either topical or systemic, especially using anti-oxydants or senolytics. These anti-aging strategies might contribute to restore, at least in part, the functional integrity of aged skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Julie Rorteau
- Équipe Intégrité fonctionnelle du tissu cutané (SKIN). Laboratoire de biologie tissulaire et d'ingénierie thérapeutique (LBTI), CNRS UMR5305, Université Lyon I, 7 passage du Vercors, 69367 Lyon Cedex 07, France
| | - Fabien P Chevalier
- Équipe Intégrité fonctionnelle du tissu cutané (SKIN). Laboratoire de biologie tissulaire et d'ingénierie thérapeutique (LBTI), CNRS UMR5305, Université Lyon I, 7 passage du Vercors, 69367 Lyon Cedex 07, France
| | - Bérengère Fromy
- Équipe Intégrité fonctionnelle du tissu cutané (SKIN). Laboratoire de biologie tissulaire et d'ingénierie thérapeutique (LBTI), CNRS UMR5305, Université Lyon I, 7 passage du Vercors, 69367 Lyon Cedex 07, France
| | - Jérôme Lamartine
- Équipe Intégrité fonctionnelle du tissu cutané (SKIN). Laboratoire de biologie tissulaire et d'ingénierie thérapeutique (LBTI), CNRS UMR5305, Université Lyon I, 7 passage du Vercors, 69367 Lyon Cedex 07, France
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Böhm M, Paus R. Towards a renaissance of dermatoendocrinology: Selected current frontiers. Exp Dermatol 2020; 29:786-789. [PMID: 33319935 DOI: 10.1111/exd.14177] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/20/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Markus Böhm
- Department of Dermatology, University of Münster, Münster, Germany
| | - Ralf Paus
- Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology & Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami Miller School of Medicine, Miami, FL, USA.,Centre for Dermatology Research, University of Manchester and NIHR Biomedical Research Centre, Manchester, UK.,Monasterium Laboratory, Münster, Germany
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Duroux R, Mandeau A, Guiraudie-Capraz G, Quesnel Y, Loing E. A Rose Extract Protects the Skin against Stress Mediators: A Potential Role of Olfactory Receptors. Molecules 2020; 25:molecules25204743. [PMID: 33081083 PMCID: PMC7587601 DOI: 10.3390/molecules25204743] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/28/2020] [Revised: 10/12/2020] [Accepted: 10/13/2020] [Indexed: 12/12/2022] Open
Abstract
Olfactory receptors (ORs) are expressed and active in various human tissues, including the skin. Although the sense of smell plays an important physiological role in the regulation of mood and stress, a link between olfactive compounds, ORs, and skin stress has yet to be established. This study aims to investigate the role of newly identified skin ORs and agonists in the modulation of skin stress. Screening for odorant molecules was done with cAMP functional assay to identify OR agonists. RT-qPCR and immunofluorescence microscopy were conducted to identify and quantify ORs in epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and human skin explants, as well as to evaluate specific markers (G6PDH, loricrin, and γH2AX) of stress-induced skin alterations. A randomized double-blinded, split-face clinical study was performed on a panel of stressed women to measure the benefits of OR agonist treatment for skin. Three new ORs (OR10A6, OR2AG2, and OR11H4) were identified in skin. A specific Rose extract and its major constituent (phenylethyl alcohol) were found to activate these ORs. The extract composition was revealed by both GC/FID and GC/MS analyses simultaneously and showed the presence of 34 volatiles molecules. Moreover, epinephrine induces a skin stress response characterized by increased expression of G6PD, loricrin, and γH2AX biomarkers, and a decrease of OR expression. These effects were prevented in the presence of rose extract and its benefits were confirmed clinically by a decrease in the appearance of under-eye dark circles. Altogether, our findings suggest that ORs may represent a new, promising way to treat stress-associated skin disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Romain Duroux
- Department of Research and Development, International Flavors and Fragrances-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, 31036 Toulouse CEDEX, France;
- Correspondence:
| | - Anne Mandeau
- Department of Research and Development, International Flavors and Fragrances-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, 31036 Toulouse CEDEX, France;
| | - Gaelle Guiraudie-Capraz
- Institute of Neurophysiopathology, CNRS, Aix-Marseille University, UMR 7051, CEDEX 15, F-13344 Marseille, France;
| | | | - Estelle Loing
- Department of Research and Development, International Flavors and Fragrances-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Quebec, QC G1V 4M6, Canada;
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