Reinforcement of barrier function - skin repair formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin

The water extracts from the oil cakes of Prinsepia utilis repair the epidermal barrier via up-regulating Corneocyte Envelope-proteins, lipid synthases, and tight junction proteins

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Prinsepia utilis Royle, native to the Himalayan region, has a long history of use in traditional medicine for its heat-clearing, detoxification, anti-inflammatory, and analgesic properties. Oils extracted from P. utilis seeds are also used in cooking and cosmetics. With the increasing market demand, this extraction process generates substantial industrial biowastes. Recent studies have found many health benefits with using aqueous extracts of these biowastes, which are also rich in polysaccharides. However, there is limited research related to the reparative effects of the water extracts of P. utilis oil cakes (WEPUOC) on disruptions of the skin barrier function.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This study aimed to evaluate the reparative efficacy of WEPUOC in both acute and chronic epidermal permeability barrier disruptions. Furthermore, the study sought to explore the underlying mechanisms involved in repairing the epidermal permeability barrier.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Mouse models with induced epidermal disruptions, employing tape-stripping (TS) and acetone wiping (AC) methods, were used. The subsequent application of WEPUOC (100 mg/mL) was evaluated through various assessments, with a focus on the upregulation of mRNA and protein expression of Corneocyte Envelope (CE) related proteins, lipid synthase-associated proteins, and tight junction proteins.

RESULTS

The polysaccharide was the major phytochemicals of WEPUOC and its content was determined as 32.2% by the anthranone-sulfuric acid colorimetric method. WEPUOC significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improved the damaged epidermal barrier in the model group. Mechanistically, these effects were associated with heightened expression levels of key proteins such as FLG (filaggrin), INV (involucrin), LOR (loricrin), SPT, FASN, HMGCR, Claudins-1, Claudins-5, and ZO-1.

CONCLUSIONS

WEPUOC, obtained from the oil cakes of P. utilis, is rich in polysaccharides and exhibits pronounced efficacy in repairing disrupted epidermal barriers through increased expression of critical proteins involved in barrier integrity. Our findings underscore the potential of P. utilis wastes in developing natural cosmetic prototypes for the treatment of diseases characterized by damaged skin barriers, including atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.

Bioactive lipids in the skin barrier mediate its functionality in health and disease

Our skin protects us from external threats including ultraviolet radiation, pathogens and chemicals, and prevents excessive trans-epidermal water loss. These varied activities are reliant on a vast array of lipids, many of which are unique to skin, and that support physical, microbiological and immunological barriers. The cutaneous physical barrier is dependent on a specific lipid matrix that surrounds terminally-differentiated keratinocytes in the stratum corneum. Sebum- and keratinocyte-derived lipids cover the skin's surface and support and regulate the skin microbiota. Meanwhile, lipids signal between resident and infiltrating cutaneous immune cells, driving inflammation and its resolution in response to pathogens and other threats. Lipids of particular importance include ceramides, which are crucial for stratum corneum lipid matrix formation and therefore physical barrier functionality, fatty acids, which contribute to the acidic pH of the skin surface and regulate the microbiota, as well as the stratum corneum lipid matrix, and bioactive metabolites of these fatty acids, involved in cell signalling, inflammation, and numerous other cutaneous processes. These diverse and complex lipids maintain homeostasis in healthy skin, and are implicated in many cutaneous diseases, as well as unrelated systemic conditions with skin manifestations, and processes such as ageing. Lipids also contribute to the gut-skin axis, signalling between the two barrier sites. Therefore, skin lipids provide a valuable resource for exploration of healthy cutaneous processes, local and systemic disease development and progression, and accessible biomarker discovery for systemic disease, as well as an opportunity to fully understand the relationship between the host and the skin microbiota. Investigation of skin lipids could provide diagnostic and prognostic biomarkers, and help identify new targets for interventions. Development and improvement of existing in vitro and in silico approaches to explore the cutaneous lipidome, as well as advances in skin lipidomics technologies, will facilitate ongoing progress in skin lipid research.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.

METHODS

The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.

RESULTS

A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.

CONCLUSION

The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

Optimization of Rheological Behaviour and Skin Penetration of Thermogelling Emulsions with Enhanced Substantivity for Potential Application in Treatment of Chronic Skin Diseases

Topical formulations are an important pillar in the therapy of skin diseases. Nevertheless, after application the formulation will be exposed to environmental effects. Contact with other surfaces will reduce the available amount of formulation and drug substance. The resulting consequences for therapy range from reduced effects to therapeutic failure. The removed active ingredient also contaminates patients' environment. The aim of this work was to develop preparations that remain at the application site. These will enhance safety and efficiency and thus improve of skin disease therapies. Therefore, we developed polymer-stabilised emulsions that show thermogelling properties. Emulsions with different methyl cellulose concentrations and macrogols of different molecular weights were investigated. The dispersed phase consisted of nonivamide as the active pharmaceutical ingredient, dissolved in medium-chain triglycerides. Rheological properties, droplet size, substantivity and ex vivo penetration experiments were performed to characterise the developed formulations. Droplet size and rheological parameters were affected by the composition of the preparations. The tested formulations showed benefits in their substantivity compared to a conventional semi-solid cream. We found a residual amount of up to 100% at the application site. The drug levels in viable epidermis were in a therapeutic range. The developed emulsions are a promising vehicle to improve therapy for chronic skin diseases.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.