Profiling of serine protease activities in human stratum corneum and detection of a stratum corneum tryptase-like enzyme

Characterization of skin barrier defects using infrared spectroscopy in patients with atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is characterized by skin barrier defects that are often measured by biophysical tools that observe the functional properties of the stratum corneum (SC).

OBJECTIVES

To employ in vivo infrared spectroscopy alongside biophysical measurements to analyse changes in the chemical composition of the SC in relation to AD severity.

METHODS

We conducted an observational cross-sectional cohort study where attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy measurements were collected on the forearm alongside surface pH, capacitance, erythema and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), combined with tape stripping, in a cohort of 75 participants (55 patients with AD stratified by phenotypic severity and 20 healthy controls). Common FLG variant alleles were genotyped.

RESULTS

Reduced hydration, elevated TEWL and redness were all associated with greater AD severity. Spectral analysis showed a reduction in 1465 cm-1 (full width half maximum) and 1340 cm-1 peak areas, indicative of less orthorhombic lipid ordering and reduced carboxylate functional groups, which correlated with clinical severity (lipid structure r = -0.59, carboxylate peak area r = -0.50).

CONCLUSIONS

ATR-FTIR spectroscopy is a suitable tool for the characterization of structural skin barrier defects in AD and has potential as a clinical tool for directing individual treatment based on chemical structural deficiencies.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare

BACKGROUND

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research.

METHODS

We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation.

RESULTS

The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1.

CONCLUSION

Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration.

Low-flux electron diffraction study on body site dependence of stratum corneum structures in human skin

For analysis of the structure of human skin stratum corneum (SC), we introduced low-flux electron diffraction (ED) and developed a new statistical analysis method for obtained ED intensity profiles. By use of this method we compared the differences in the intercellular lipid organization on the SC corneocytes collected at human forehead, cheek, and forearm by the grid-stripping method. As a result, we found a significant regional difference in the distribution of lipid hydrocarbon chain packing domains in the SC; the ring-type ED pattern with orthorhombic symmetry was more often observed in the forearm SC than in the forehead and cheek SCs. We also found that the dependence of the background electron diffraction intensity on the modulus of the scattering vector differed significantly among them. The present method for the analysis of a large number of ED patterns of noninvasively obtained SC samples could be a powerful tool to scrutinize the structural difference between the SCs under various experimental conditions.

Topical Delivery of Rapamycin by Means of Microenvironment-Sensitive Core-Multi-Shell Nanocarriers: Assessment of Anti-Inflammatory Activity in an ex vivo Skin/T Cell Co-Culture Model

Introduction

Rapamycin (Rapa) is an immunosuppressive macrolide that inhibits the mechanistic target of rapamycin (mTOR) activity. Thanks to its anti-proliferative effects towards different cell types, including keratinocytes and T cells, Rapa shows promise in the treatment of skin diseases characterized by cell hyperproliferation. However, Rapa skin penetration is limited due to its lipophilic nature (log P = 4.3) and high molecular weight (MW = 914 g/mol). In previous studies, new microenvironment-sensitive core multishell (CMS) nanocarriers capable of sensing the redox state of inflamed skin were developed as more efficient and selective vehicles for macrolide delivery to inflamed skin.

Methods

In this study, we tested such redox-sensitive CMS nanocarriers using an inflammatory skin model based on human skin explants co-cultured with Jurkat T cells. Serine protease (SP) was applied on skin surface to induce skin barrier impairment and oxidative stress, whereas phytohaemagglutinin (PHA), IL-17A, and IL-22 were used to activate Jurkat cells. Activation markers, such as CD45 and CD69, phosphorylated ribosomal protein S6 (pRP-S6), and IL-2 release were monitored in activated T cells, whereas pro-inflammatory cytokines were measured in skin extracts and culture medium.

Results

We found that alteration of skin barrier proteins corneodesmosin (CDSN), occludin (Occl), and zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1) as well as oxidation-induced decrease of free thiol groups occurred upon SP-treatment. All Rapa formulations exerted inhibitory effects on T cells after penetration across ex vivo skin. No effects on skin inflammatory markers were detected. The superiority of the oxidative-sensitive CMS nanocarriers over the other formulations was observed with regard to drug delivery as well as downregulation of IL-2 release.

Conclusion

Overall, our results demonstrate that nanocarriers addressing features of diseased skin are promising approaches to improve the topical delivery of macrolide drugs.

Tape strips in dermatology research

Tape strips have been used widely in dermatology research as a minimally invasive method to sample the epidermis, avoiding the need for skin biopsies. Most research has focused on epidermal pathology, such as atopic eczema, but there is increasing research into the use of tape strips in other dermatoses, such as skin cancer, and the microbiome. This review summarizes the technique of tape stripping, and discusses which dermatoses have been studied by tape stripping and alternative minimally invasive sampling methods. We review the number of tape strips needed from each patient and the components of the epidermis that can be obtained by tape stripping. With a focus on protein and RNA extraction, we address the techniques used to process tape strips. There is no optimal protocol to extract protein, as this depends on the abundance of the protein studied, its level of expression in the epidermis and its solubility. Many variables can alter the amount of protein obtained from tape strips, which must be standardized to ensure consistency between samples. No study has compared different RNA extraction techniques, but our own experience is that RNA yield is optimized by using 20 tape strips and the use of a cell scraper.

Seasonal variations in the skin parameters of Caucasian women from Central Europe

BACKGROUND

The human skin is greatly affected by external factors such as UV radiation (UVR), ambient temperature (T), and air humidity. These factors oscillate during the year giving rise to the seasonal variations in the skin properties. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of seasons, environmental T, relative and absolute humidity on the skin parameters of Caucasian women, perform a literature review and discuss the possible factors lying behind the found changes.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We measured stratum corneum (SC) hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, erythema index, and elasticity parameters R2 and R7 on the forehead and the cheek of Caucasian women from the Czech Republic throughout the year. We also performed a non-systematic literature review focused on the seasonal variations in these skin parameters.

RESULTS

We confirmed a well-documented low SC hydration and sebum production in winter. In spring, we found the lowest TEWL (on the forehead) and the highest SC hydration but also the highest erythema index and the lowest elasticity presumably indicating skin photodamage. For most of the skin parameters, the seasonal variations probably arise due to a complex action of different factors as we extensively discussed.

CONCLUSION

The data about the seasonal variations in the skin parameters are still highly inconsistent and further studies are needed for better understanding of the normal skin changes throughout the year.

Carbon dioxide ameliorates reduced desquamation in dry scaly skin via protease activation

OBJECTIVE

Scaling, a phenomenon showing an abnormal detachment of the stratum corneum (SC) owing to desquamation dysfunction, is commonly observed in various skin diseases or xerotic skin due to ageing and low humidity. Therefore, it is considered that ameliorating the disturbed desquamatory process of the SC leads to improvement in scaling. Carbon dioxide (CO₂ ) is known to be good for some skin diseases; however, the effect of CO₂ on scaling and its mechanism are not sufficiently clear. We aimed to elucidate the effect of transepidermal application of CO₂ on scaling and its mechanism of action.

METHODS

Twenty healthy men with mild scaling on the cheeks were recruited for a double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study. They applied the formulation containing CO₂ twice daily for 1 week. After the study, the SC was collected by tape stripping to analyse desquamatory protease activities and degradation of extracellular corneodesmosomes. Furthermore, the contribution of pH to proteolysis of the corneodesmosome by CO₂ was evaluated using three-dimensional (3D) cultured epidermal models.

RESULTS

The spectroscopic absorbance of tape strips, used as scaling indicators, was decreased, concomitantly with the amelioration of incomplete degradation of desmoglein-1, one of the main corneodesmosomal proteins, and activation of trypsin-like protease in the SC by transepidermal application of CO₂ . Experiments using 3D cultured epidermis showed that pH in the epidermal tissue was lowered by CO₂ , whereas a pH change was not observed with the application of the formulation containing hydrochloric acid, which was added to equalize the pH to that of the CO₂ formulation.

CONCLUSION

The transcutaneous application of CO₂ ameliorates reduced desquamatory process in xerotic skin, with concomitant mild acidification of the SC, thereby leading to improvement in scaling. Thus, CO₂ may have an advantage of efficiently and safely counteracting scaling of various skin disorders.

The importance of 12R-lipoxygenase and transglutaminase activities in the hydration-dependent ex vivo maturation of corneocyte envelopes

Background

Terminally differentiated keratinocytes acquire corneocyte protein envelopes (CPE) complexed with corneocyte lipid envelopes (CLE). These two structural components of the corneocyte envelopes (CEs) undergo maturation by gaining in hydrophobicity, rigidity and surface area. Linoleoyl acylceramides are processed by 12R‐lipoxygenase (12R‐LOX) and other enzymes before transglutaminase (TG) attaches ω‐hydroxyceramides to involucrin in the CPE. Concurrently, structural proteins are cross‐linked by TG that has been activated by cathepsin D (CathD).

Objectives

The primary aim of this work was to demonstrate the impact of relative humidity (RH) during ex vivo CE maturation. Low, optimal and high RH were selected to investigate the effect of protease inhibitors (PIs) on CE maturation and TG activity; in addition, 12R‐LOX and CathD activity were measured at optimal RH. Finally, the effect of glycerol on ex vivo CE maturation was tested at low, optimal and high RH.

Methods

The first and ninth tape strip of photo‐exposed (PE) cheek and photo‐protected (PP) post‐auricular sites of healthy volunteers were selected. Ex vivo CE maturation was assessed via the relative CE maturity (RCEM) approach based on CE rigidity and hydrophobicity. The second and eighth tapes were exposed to RH in the presence of inhibitors.

Results

Irrespective of tape stripping depth, CEs from PE samples attained CE rigidity to the same extent as mature CEs from the PP site, but such improvement was lacking for CE hydrophobicity. 70% RH was optimal for ex vivo CE maturation. The inhibition of 12R‐LOX activity resulted in enhanced CE rigidity which was reduced by the TG inhibitor. CE hydrophobicity remained unchanged during ex vivo maturation in the presence of TG or 12R‐LOX inhibition. CE hydrophobicity was enhanced in the presence of glycerol at 44% RH and 100% RH but not at 70% RH. Furthermore, TG activity was significantly diminished at 100% RH compared to the commercial inhibitor LDN‐27219. However, a protease inhibitor mix reversed the negative effect of overhydration.

Conclusion

The study adds to the understanding of the roles of 12R‐LOX and TG activity in CE maturation and gives further insight into the effect of glycerol on the SC.

Influence of skin furrows on tape stripping in characterizing the depth of skin penetration

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin and its major barrier for penetration, contains furrows of different depths on its surface. The presence of these furrows might lead to erroneous interpretation of the results in skin permeation studies using tape stripping, in which the material trapped in the furrows removed by the tapes representing different layers of the SC might be interpreted as material penetrating within these layers. The present objective was to investigate the effect of skin furrows on tape stripping results. Non-penetrating fluorescent materials were topically applied to split-thickness human and full-thickness porcine skin samples. Tape stripping was applied, and the tapes were assessed by fluorescence microscopy and quantitative analyses. The microscopy images were assessed visually to determine the presence of the applied material in the furrows. The penetration depth of the material was examined and the fluorescence content and pattern in each tape were analyzed. The results suggested that skin furrows could be important in the first 10 tapes, affecting the quantification of materials in the SC, particularly in permeation studies of materials with low penetration into the SC. Depending on the properties of the materials, skin rinsing could reduce the impact of furrows.

Impact of sunflower seed oil versus mustard seed oil on skin barrier function in newborns: a community-based, cluster-randomized trial

Background

Natural vegetable oils are widely used for newborn massage in many low resource settings. Animal models indicated that sunflower seed oil (SSO) can accelerate skin barrier recovery following damage, while other oils, including mustard oil (MO), may cause further skin barrier damage. The objective was to compare the effects of two SSO and MO used for routine massage on skin integrity in premature and full-term neonates.

Methods

This community-based cluster randomized controlled trial included 995 neonates assigned to full body massage with sunflower seed oil (SSO, intervention) or mustard seed oil (MO, standard practice) from July 2012–May 2014 in Sarlahi, Nepal. Skin integrity measures were evaluated over 28 days, including skin condition (erythema, rash, dryness), skin surface pH, stratum corneum (SC) cohesion/protein concentration, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Overall means and rates of change in these skin measures were compared between oil groups using bivariate random-effects models.

Results

500 and 495 live born neonates received repeated massage with MO and SSO, respectively. Skin pH decreased more quickly for SSO than MO in the first week of life, with a difference in mean daily reductions of 0.02 (95% CI: 0.002–0.040). Erythema, rash and dryness increased (worsened) over days 1–14 then decreased by day 28, with no significant oil group differences. TEWL increased over time, with no significant oil group differences. Gestational age did not modify the effect; the slightly faster decrease in skin pH among SSO infants was similar in magnitude between term and preterm infants.

Conclusions

Oil type may contribute to differences in skin integrity when neonates are massaged regularly. The more rapid acid mantle development observed for SSO may be protective for neonates in lower resource settings.

Trial registration

ClinicalTrials.gov (NCT01177111); registered August 6th, 2010.

The Effects of a Novel Series of KTTKS Analogues on Cytotoxicity and Proteolytic Activity

KTTKS is a matrikine that originates from the proteolytic hydrolysis of collagen. This peptide stimulates ECM production and types I and III collagen expression in vitro. A more stable form of KTTKS is pal-KTTKS, known as Matrixyl^® or palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. A series of novel pentapeptides, analogues of KTTKS with the general formula X-KTTKS-OH(NH₂), where X = acetyl, lipoyl, palmitoyl residues, was designed and synthesized. Their effect on amidolytic activity of urokinase, thrombin, trypsin, plasmin, t-PA, and kallikrein were tested. Cytotoxic tests on fibroblasts, as well as collagen and DNA biosynthesis tests for selected peptides, were also carried out. The test results showed that the most active plasmin inhibitors were palmitoyl peptides, whether in acid or amide form. No biological effects of lysine modification to arginine in the synthesized peptides were found. None of the synthesized peptides was not cytotoxic on fibroblasts, and three of them showed cell growth. These three compounds showed no concentration-activity relationship in the collagen and DNA biosynthesis assays.

Expression and ultrastructural localization of plasmin(ogen) in the terminally differentiated layers of normal human epidermis

Objective

Plasmin, a relatively unspecific trypsin‐like serine protease, is involved in many physiological and pathological conditions, particularly in dermatoses with barrier impairment. It is secreted as the inactive zymogen plasminogen and is activated to plasmin by plasminogen activators, such as urokinase. There still exists a paucity of data on the precise localization of epidermal plasmin(ogen) within the epidermis and the stratum corneum. The aim of the present study was to get information about its origin and ultrastructural localization within normal human epidermis.

Method

We performed immunoelectron transmission electron microscopy immunogold labelling in normal abdominal human skin.

Result

Plasmin was only observed in the terminally differentiated cell layers of the epidermis and was largely associated with the corneocyte envelopes and to some extent with the intercellular lipid matrix in the stratum corneum.

Conclusion

Our results indicate that in normal human skin, plasmin(ogen) is synthesized by differentiated epidermal keratinocytes of the stratum granulosum and is not serum‐born.

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non‐photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio‐instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less‐pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo‐controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology.

A proof-of-principle study comparing barrier function and cell morphology in face and body skin

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this pilot in vivo study was to investigate corneocyte size and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in facial cheek and volar forearm skin as a function of consecutive tape stripping. Changes in corneocyte size and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured as a function of stratum corneum (SC) depth at both anatomical sites. To our knowledge, this is the first published quantitative comparison based on these parameters. This work complements our previously published studies on face skin barrier recovery at 24 h and 4 weeks post-tape stripping [Gorcea et al., Skin Res. Technol., 19, 2013, e375-e382; Gorcea et al., Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 35, 2013, 250].

METHODS

Transepidermal water loss in vivo measurements of forearm and facial skin sites were taken before tape stripping commenced (baseline) and after each tape was collected. Optical microscopy and image analysis techniques were employed to characterize corneocyte size as a function of skin depth (tape strip number) for both anatomical sites.

RESULTS

Transepidermal water loss increased significantly from baseline with sequential tape stripping at both anatomical skin sites. Volar forearm skin required approximately three times as many tapes to 'damage' the SC barrier (arbitrarily defined as twice baseline TEWL) compared to facial cheek skin demonstrating significant differences in barrier properties between cheeks and forearms (P < 0.05). Corneocyte size decreased significantly with depth for both sites (P < 0.001). Corneocytes from face skin were significantly smaller than corneocytes from volar forearm skin.

CONCLUSION

Statistically significant differences between facial and body skin stratum corneum cell morphology and transepidermal water loss were demonstrated and quantitatively measured as a function of tape stripping.

The benefit of a ceramide-linoleic acid-containing moisturizer as an adjunctive therapy for a set of xerotic dermatoses

Atopic dermatitis (AD), chronic eczema, and pruritus hiemalis are a set of prevalent chronic xerotic skin disorders that share clinical features such as dryness, scales, and pruritus. A ceramide deficiency and defective epidermal functions are common in these diseases. This study was designed to assess the effect of ceramide-linoleic acid (LA-Cer)-containing moisturizer as an adjunctive therapy in the treatment of AD, chronic eczema, and pruritus hiemalis. In a 2-month study, patients with one of these three diseases were divided into two groups. The control group was treated with mometasone furoate (0.1%) cream (MF), whereas the treatment group received 0.1% MF in combination with an LA-Cer-containing moisturizer. Capacitance and transepidermal water loss were measured in normal and lesional skin, along with Eczema Assessment Severity Index and pruritus scores at Weeks 0, 2, 4, and 8. The results showed that tropical applications of an LA-Cer-containing moisturizer in combination with a topical glucocorticoid accelerated the reestablishment of epidermal permeability barrier and the amelioration of pruritus in patients with AD and pruritus hiemalis. However, it did not provide the same effect for chronic eczema. Thus, the efficacy of this combination therapy for this set of xerotic disorders requires further evaluation.

Topical effects of SCA® (Cryptomphalus aspersa secretion) associated with regenerative and antioxidant ingredients on aged skin: evaluation by confocal and clinical microscopy

Purpose

This was an open-label, single-center clinical study to evaluate a topical association of SCA^® (Cryptomphalus aspersa secretion) with regenerative and antioxidant ingredients, according to the type and area of the face, on the improvement of signs of skin aging.

Patients and methods

One hundred and twenty female participants aged between 40 and 65 years, with facial aging complaints (presence of static, dynamics wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and skin firmness) were randomized into two groups according to the type of skin: normal–oily and normal–dry, and 40 participants were randomized for evaluation of the periocular area (with the presence of wrinkles, expression lines, and dark circles) with both types of skin. The groups received serum for normal–oily skin, a cream for normal–dry skin, and a cream for periocular and eyelid skin (eye area). All the participants were evaluated by a dermatologist and submitted to hydration evaluation by corneometry, elasticity and firmness measures complementarily, and images were collected in confocal reflectance microscopy.

Results

Topical skin treatment with the association of SCA with antioxidant ingredients (green coffee oil, olive oil, ectoine, hyaluronic acid, and peptides) was able to promote significant clinical and subjective improvement of all signs of skin aging. This improvement was presented at the epidermal level, with improved hydration levels measured by corneometry and epidermal thickness, and at the dermal level, with improvement of the firmness and elasticity parameters, measured by cutometry, from 45 days of use.

Conclusion

All the evaluated topical formulations seemed to be an effective alternative for the progressive treatment of signs of skin aging, since they demonstrate a real improvement of dermal–epidermal structure and function with high safety margin for long-term use.

Early-life regional and temporal variation in filaggrin-derived natural moisturizing factor, filaggrin-processing enzyme activity, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activity: implications for atopic dermatitis

Background

Filaggrin is central to the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD). The cheeks are a common initiation site of infantile AD. Regional and temporal expression of levels of filaggrin degradation products [natural moisturizing factors (NMFs)], activities of filaggrin‐processing enzymes [bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain‐1 (C‐1)] and plasmin, and corneocyte envelope (CE) maturity in early life are largely unknown.

Objectives

We conducted a cross‐sectional, observational study investigating regional and age‐dependent variations in NMF levels, activity of proteases and CE maturity in stratum corneum (SC) from infants to determine whether these factors could explain the observed predilection sites for AD in early life.

Methods

We measured NMF using a tape‐stripping method at seven sites in the SC of 129 children (aged < 12 months to 72 months) and in three sites in 56 neonates and infants (< 48 h to 3 months). In 37 of these neonates and infants, corneocyte size, maturity, BH, C‐1 and plasmin activities were determined.

Results

NMF levels are low at birth and increase with age. Cheek SC, compared with elbow flexure and nasal tip, has the lowest NMF in the first year of life and is the slowest to reach stable levels. Cheek corneocytes remain immature. Plasmin, BH and C‐1 activities are all elevated by 1 month of age in exposed cheek skin, but not in elbow skin.

Conclusions

Regional and temporal differences in NMF levels, CE maturity and protease activities may explain the predilection for AD to affect the cheeks initially and are supportive of this site as key for allergen priming in early childhood. These observations will help design early intervention and treatment strategies for AD.

What's already known about this topic?

Atopic dermatitis (AD) frequently starts in early infancy, and the first eczematous lesions emerge on the cheeks.

Filaggrin is a major structural protein in the stratum corneum (SC).

Filaggrin deficiency is associated with the development of AD and, in the context of AD, food allergies and asthma.

Filaggrin is metabolized into natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), which can be measured in the SC.

What does this study add?

Regional differences in NMF levels, corneocyte envelope immaturity and protease activities may help explain why infantile AD most often initially affects the cheeks.

Filaggrin processing, corneocyte maturity, and protease activities show regional and temporal differences in infant skin.

These findings may explain disease patterns in early‐life AD.

What is the translational message?

Cheek skin may be highly relevant for allergen priming.

Emollient therapy at the vulnerable cheek site might help to prevent AD and/or food sensitization.

Linked Editorial: https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16806.

https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16959 available online

https://goo.gl/Uqv3dl

Indicators of skin barrier integrity among newborns massaged with mustard oil in rural Nepal

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this study was to determine the skin barrier changes during postnatal month 1 among infants receiving routine mustard oil massage in the humid conditions of rural Nepal.

STUDY DESIGN

This was an observational study among 500 live-born neonates receiving mustard oil massage. Skin integrity such as erythema, rash, dryness, skin pH, stratum corneum protein concentration and transepidermal water loss was measured on days 1, 3, 7, 14 and 28.

RESULTS

Erythema and rash increased (worsened) during weeks 1 and 2, then decreased over weeks 3 and 4. Skin pH (6.1±0.5 to 5.0±0.6) and stratum corneum protein (16.6±7.9 to 13.5±5.9 μg cm^-2) decreased. Transepidermal water loss increased from 33.2±23.5 to 43.0±24.5 g m^-2 h^-1 at day 28. Skin pH and stratum corneum protein were higher for early versus late premature infants.

CONCLUSION

Premature and full-term skin condition was generally poor especially during the first 2 weeks, improving thereafter. Maturational changes were evident.

A critical review on serine protease: Key immune manipulator and pathology mediator

Proteolytic activity is fundamental to survival, so it is not surprising that all living organisms have proteases, especially seine protease. This enzyme in its numerous isoforms and homologues, constitutes the quintessential offence and defence factors, in the form of surface proteins, secreted molecules, gut digestive enzymes, venom in specialised glands or plant latex, among other manifestations. Occurring as trypsin, chymotrypsin, elastase, collagenase, thrombin, subtilisin etc., it mediates a diverse array of functions, including pathological roles as inflammatory, coagulatory to haemorrhagic. This review emphasizes that despite the superficial differences in mechanisms, most health issues, be they infectious, allergic, metabolic, or neural have a common conduit. This enzyme, in its various glycosylated forms leads to signal misinterpretations, wreaking havoc. However, organisms are endowed with serine protease inhibitors which might restrain this ubiquitous yet deleterious enzyme. Hence, serine proteases-driven pathogenesis and antagonising role of inhibitors is the focal point of this critical review.

The effect of photodamage on the female Caucasian facial stratum corneum corneome using mass spectrometry-based proteomics

BACKGROUND

The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood.

OBJECTIVE

To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a better understanding of keratinocyte signalling pathways and identification of new molecular targets for the treatment of photoaged skin.

METHODS

Female Caucasian subjects had nine consecutive tape strippings taken from their cheeks and PA site. Proteins were extracted and the trypsin-digested peptides were analysed by nanochromatography coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer. Data-dependent acquisition allowed protein identification that was processed by Paragon algorithm of Protein Pilot software.

RESULTS

Changes in the levels of epidermal differentiation proteins were apparent indicating poor epidermal differentiation and SC maturation (keratins, cornified envelope (CE) proteins) on photoexposed cheeks. Differences in protease-anti-protease balance were observed for corneodesmolysis (favouring desquamation) and filaggrinolysis (favouring reduced filaggrin processing). 12R-LOX, a CE maturation enzyme, was reduced in photodamaged skin but not transglutaminases. Changes in signal keratinocyte transduction pathway markers were demonstrated especially by reduced levels of downstream signalling markers such as calreticulin (unfolded protein response; UPR) and increased level of stratifin (target of rapamycin; mTOR). Evidence for impaired proteostasis was apparent by reduced levels of a key proteasomal subunit (subunit beta type-6). Finally, key antioxidant proteins were upregulated except catalase.

CONCLUSION

Clear examples of poor keratinocyte differentiation and associated metabolic and signalling pathways together with reduced SC maturation were identified in photodamaged facial SC. Corneocyte immaturity was evident with changes in CE proteins. Particularly, the reduction in 12R-LOX is a novel finding in photodamaged skin and supports the lack of SC maturation. Moreover, filaggrinolysis was reduced, whereas corneodesmolysis was enhanced. From our results, we propose that there is a poor cross-talk between the keratinocyte endoplasmic reticulum UPR, proteasome network and autophagy machinery that possibly leads to impaired keratinocyte proteostasis. Superimposed on these aberrations is an apparently enhanced mTOR pathway that also contributes to reduced SC formation and maturation. Our results clearly indicate a corneocyte scaffold disorder in photodamaged cheek SC.

Effect of allergens and irritants on levels of natural moisturizing factor and corneocyte morphology

BACKGROUND

The irritant sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is known to cause a decrease in the stratum corneum level of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which in itself is associated with changes in corneocyte surface topography.

OBJECTIVE

To explore this phenomenon in allergic contact dermatitis.

METHODS

Patch testing was performed on patients with previously positive patch test reactions to potassium dichromate (Cr), nickel sulfate (Ni), methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)/methylisothiazolinone (MI), or p-phenylenediamine. Moreover, a control (pet.) patch and an irritant (SLS) patch were applied. After 3 days, the stratum corneum from tested sites was collected, and NMF levels and corneocyte morphology, expressed as the amount of circular nanosize objects, quantified according to the Dermal Texture Index (DTI), were determined.

RESULTS

Among allergens, only MCI/MI reduced NMF levels significantly, as did SLS. Furthermore, only MCI/MI caused remarkable changes at the microscopic level; the corneocytes were hexagonal-shaped with pronounced cell borders and a smoother surface. The DTI was increased after SLS exposure but not after allergen exposure.

CONCLUSIONS

MCI/MI significantly decreased NMF levels, similarly to SLS. The altered corneocyte morphology suggests that skin barrier damage plays a role in the pathogenesis of MCI/MI contact allergy. The DTI seems to differentiate reactions to SLS from those to the allergens tested, as SLS was the only agent that caused a DTI increase.

Effect of different alcohols on stratum corneum kallikrein 5 and phospholipase A2 together with epidermal keratinocytes and skin irritation

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this exploratory study was to investigate the effect of ethanol, isopropanol and n-propanol on stratum corneum (SC) enzymes and keratinocytes in vitro together with their effects on skin condition and function.

METHODS

Activities of kallikrein 5 (KLK5) and phospholipase A2 (PLA2) as well as keratinocyte metabolic activity, interleukin-1α (IL-1α) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) were measured in vitro in the presence and absence of the different alcohols. We also measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, visual dryness and visual redness on the volar forearms of 25 Caucasian women following application of the alcohols 20 and 100 times per day over a period of 14 days in a clinical study.

RESULTS

Reduced activities of KLK5 and PLA2 were observed in the presence of the alcohols. The greatest denaturing effect was always observed for n-propanol (P < 0.001), and in the case of PLA2, the effect of isopropanol was greater than ethanol (P < 0.001). Equally, ethanol had the mildest effects on keratinocyte metabolic activity and cytokine secretion (P < 0.001) and n-propanol always produced the most severe changes in normal and differentiated keratinocytes. These in vitro findings supported the clinical results where the major effects were on the induction of skin irritation (increased dropout rates) and ranked the intolerance of the different alcohols as follows: n-propanol > isopropanol > ethanol. At the high application frequencies, the effect of the different alcohols on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance was similar, but at the low application frequencies, n-propanol had a significant effect on TEWL and capacitance values (P < 0.05). Equally, n-propanol and isopropanol produced significantly more skin redness at the low application frequencies.

CONCLUSIONS

Clearly, isopropanol and n-propanol caused significant SC and keratinocyte perturbation in vitro together with damage to skin condition and function in vivo whereas ethanol did not. As a result, we show that ethanol-based sanitizers are better tolerated by skin, particularly in high-use settings, than other alcohols and should be the active ingredient of choice.

The effects of benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide), a dual plasmin and urokinase inhibitor, on facial skin barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to optimize the synthesis of the plasmin and urokinase (uPA) inhibitor benzylsulfonyl-D-Ser-homoPhe-(4-amidino-benzylamide) (BSFAB), to characterize its activity and mechanism of action and to assess its use to improve stratum corneum (SC) barrier function.

METHODS

Peptide coupling methods were used to synthesize BSFAB, and high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) together with ¹ H- and ¹³ C-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) were applied to clarify its structure and determine its purity. Its binding mode was determined by docking studies to the catalytic domains of plasmin and uPA. Inhibition constants (K_i ) were determined by enzyme kinetic studies, and the effect of BSFAB on plasmin, uPA and transglutaminase 1 expression was evaluated in non-cytokine and cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes. A vehicle-controlled clinical study on SC barrier function was conducted on facial skin of subjects with self-perceived sensitive skin.

RESULTS

BSFAB was synthesized with high purity (97.3%). In silico studies indicated that the amidine moiety of BSFAB was anchored in the S1 pocket of both enzymes by binding to Asp189, Ser190 and Gly219, whereas the backbone of the D-Ser residue makes an anti-parallel β-sheet interaction with Gly216. BSFAB was shown to be an effective inhibitor of plasmin and uPA with K_i values of 29 and 25 nM, respectively. BSFAB also inhibited keratinocyte-secreted protease activities in basal (plasmin inhibition 37.7%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 96.6%, P < 0.01) and cytokine-induced conditions (plasmin inhibition 41.1%, P < 0.05 and uPA inhibition 97.0%, P < 0.001) and stimulated the gene expression of transglutaminase 1 in cytokine-stimulated keratinocytes (approximately 4.5 times increased expression, P < 0.01). Clinically, BSFAB was shown to improve SC barrier integrity (P < 0.02 on day 29) and subjective improvements in the perception of healthy skin (P < 0.05 on day 28).

CONCLUSION

BSFAB binds as a reversible competitive inhibitor to the active sites of plasmin and uPA. Additionally, BSFAB positively improved keratinocyte differentiation gene expression (transglutaminase 1). These effects were translated into improvements in SC barrier integrity clinically in subjects with dry and sensitive skin and improved their perception of having a healthy skin condition.

A functional mechanistic study of the effect of emollients on the structure and function of the skin barrier

BACKGROUND

Preventing relapses of atopic dermatitis (AD) through the regular use of topical products to repair the skin barrier defect is an emerging concept. It is still unclear if some commonly used emollients exert a positive effect on the skin barrier.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the skin barrier effects of emollients commonly prescribed in the U.K.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two cohorts of volunteers with quiescent AD undertook observer-blind forearm-controlled studies. The first cohort (18 volunteers) treated the volar side of one forearm with two fingertip units of Doublebase^™ gel twice daily for 4 weeks. The second cohort (19 volunteers) undertook the same regimen using Diprobase^® cream. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum integrity and hydration, skin surface pH and redness were determined at the test sites before and after treatment.

RESULTS

Neither Diprobase^® cream nor Doublebase^™ gel significantly affected the underlying skin barrier function. Both emollients were associated with significantly increased skin surface pH immediately after application (by 0·8 ± 0·19 and 1·0 ± 0·18 units, respectively), and no erythema. Diprobase^® cream artificially and transiently (6 h) improved permeability barrier function by 2·9-3·1 g m^-2  h^-1 TEWL and increased skin hydration by 6·0-6·2 units. Doublebase^™ gel, containing humectants, was associated with a greater (between 10·1 and 13·0 units during the first 6 h) and more sustained increase in hydration, lasting more than 12 h following repeated use.

CONCLUSIONS

Diprobase^® cream and Doublebase^™ gel are not associated with skin barrier harm and appear to be appropriate for AD treatment. While displaying emollient properties, neither formulation displayed an ability to actively improve sustained skin barrier function.

A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a poorly understood skin condition. Defects in stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and/or extrasensory neuronal networks in the epidermis are believed to be involved in the problem.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to unravel the relationships between bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain-1 (C-1), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) levels, corneocyte maturation, transglutaminase (TG) and plasmin activities on the cheeks of subjects with sensitive skin.

METHODS

Forty-eight female Caucasian subjects, Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II-III, with self-perceived sensitive facial skin, were assessed and underwent a capsaicin reactivity test. Expert grading of skin condition was conducted as well as the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, SC cohesion and SC integrity. BH, C-1 and plasmin activities were measured as well as PCA levels, plasmin and TG activity. Differential Nile red and involucrin immunostaining was performed to assess corneocyte maturation and size.

RESULTS

About 52% of the subjects reacted to capsaicin. There were no significant differences between the capsaicin-sensitive and non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects with reference to skin grading, TEWL, skin capacitance and SC cohesion. PCA levels and BH activity were lowest in the capsaicin-sensitive panel (P < 0.05) and were correlated in non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects (r = 0.72). The activity of TG was significantly lower (48%) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects (P < 0.001) and their corneocytes were less mature and smaller (P ≤ 0.05). SC was estimated to be thinner (6.87 ± 0.28 vs. 8.68 ± 0.26 μm; P = 0.001) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects with a corresponding shorter SC path length (83.2 ± 4.4 μm and 113.1 ± 4.5 μm; P = 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.

Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin processing enzymes, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activities in non-sun-exposed and sun-exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities

BACKGROUND

Knowledge of the ethnic differences and effects of photodamage on the relative amounts of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) together with filaggrin processing enzymes in facial stratum corneum is limited. Our aim was to characterize the activities of calpain-1 (C-1), bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and the levels of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) as a marker for total NMF levels and to relate them to plasmin activities and corneocyte maturation.

METHODS

Enzyme activities, PCA levels and corneocyte maturation were determined from facial tape strippings of photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular areas (PA) of healthy Caucasian (C), Black African (BA) and albino African (AA) female subjects living in South Africa.

RESULTS

PCA concentration levels were of the order AA > BA > C subjects, and the highest activities of BH were present in the AA subjects. BH activities were greater on the photoexposed sites for the BA and C subjects, but they were only numerically elevated in the AA subjects. Photoprotected sites had an increase in C-1 activity in pigmented groups (C and BA), whereas in the AA subjects, the opposite was measured. Plasmin activities were greater on the cheek compared with the PA site for the AA and C subjects, but the activity was low in the BA subjects. In both test sites, the AA, but not the BA and C subjects, had smaller, parakeratotic and less mature corneocytes.

CONCLUSION

Variation in PCA levels has been found for different ethnic groups in this study (AA > BA > C subjects). The values in the AA subjects are surprising as one might expect that the lack of pigmentation, and thereby increased photodamage, might lead to lower levels. Increased BH, but not C-1 activity, was observed in the AA subjects indicating that BH is associated with PCA production to a greater extent. Surprisingly, corneocyte maturation is still impaired with elevated PCA levels in AA subjects. The higher levels of plasmin and BH activities on the cheeks, especially for AA and C subjects, suggest that they can be used as markers for epidermal photodamage.

SerpinB2 Deficiency Results in a Stratum Corneum Defect and Increased Sensitivity to Topically Applied Inflammatory Agents

SerpinB2 (plasminogen activator inhibitor type 2) is constitutively expressed at high levels by differentiating keratinocytes in mice and humans; however, the physiological function of keratinocyte SerpinB2 remains unclear. Herein, we show that SerpinB2(-/-) mice are more susceptible to contact dermatitis after topical application of dinitrofluorobenzene, and show enhanced inflammatory lesions after topical applications of phorbol ester. Untreated SerpinB2(-/-) mice showed no overt changes in epithelial structure, and we were unable to find evidence for a role for keratinocyte SerpinB2 in regulating immunity, apoptosis, IL-1β production, proteasomal activity, or wound healing. Instead, the phenotype was associated with impaired skin barrier function and a defective stratum corneum, with SerpinB2(-/-) mice showing increased transepidermal water loss, increased overt loss of stratum corneum in inflammatory lesions, and impaired stratum corneum thickening after phorbol ester treatment. Immunoblotting suggested that SerpinB2 (cross-linked into the cornified envelope) is present in the stratum corneum and retains the ability to form covalent inhibitory complexes with urokinase. Data suggest that the function of keratinocyte SerpinB2 is protection of the stratum corneum from proteolysis via inhibition of urokinase, thereby maintaining the integrity and barrier function of the stratum corneum, particularly during times of skin inflammation. Implications for studies involving genetically modified mice treated with topical agents and human dermatological conditions, such as contact dermatitis, are discussed.

Molecular basis for stratum corneum maturation and moisturization

This themed edition of BJD is dedicated to the work of Professor Ronald Marks for his untiring work on the understanding of stratum corneum (SC) structure and function. He and his coworkers, in my opinion, had the right focus for cosmetic dermatology issues. Namely, consumers experience the wonderful properties of the SC through sight, touch and the somatosensory system. They do not experience, for example, transepidermal water loss and skin conductance or capacitance! Marks understood this and set about developing the methodologies to examine the changes in SC architecture and function when desquamation goes haywire. More importantly, he understood that moisturizers do far more than simply hydrate the SC, as exemplified in the paper by Tree and Marks, 'An explanation for the placebo effect of bland ointment bases.' Moisturizing ingredients influence the properties of the SC in many ways with the sole purpose of overcoming the signs and symptoms of dry skin. Marks demonstrated the decrease in SC cohesion following use of hydrating agents, which led to the mechanistic work on the effects of a simple molecule like glycerol on the desquamatory process. In further exploiting forced desquamation and use of abrasion, he showed that improvements in exfoliation contribute to the mitigation of the signs of photodamaged skin, which can explain part of the antiageing effect of simple moisturizers. It is here that I should point out that at least this particular author in 1988 was 'standing on the shoulders of' a great corneologist whose work influenced his research directions. So this paper will provide an update on the latest developments for the molecular basis of SC maturation and moisturization, while highlighting the contributions of Professor Marks in the different areas.

The effect of tacrolimus compared with betamethasone valerate on the skin barrier in volunteers with quiescent atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an inflammatory skin disease arising as a result of immune system and skin barrier defects. Topical corticosteroids are safe and effective treatments for AD, when used in short courses. Prolonged use is associated with skin barrier damage. Topical calcineurin inhibitors are alternative immune-modulating treatments for AD purported to have no negative effects on the skin barrier.

OBJECTIVES

To compare the effects of betamethasone valerate 0·1% cream (BMVc) and tacrolimus 0·1% ointment (TACo) on the skin barrier.

METHODS

Twenty volunteers with quiescent AD (no active signs for 6 months) participated in a randomized observer-blind study, wherein BMVc was applied to one forearm and TACo to the other, twice daily for 4 weeks. The biophysical/biological properties of the stratum corneum were assessed before and after treatment. Nine volunteers with active disease and 10 with healthy skin were assessed at untreated sites.

RESULTS

BMVc significantly reduced skin barrier function, integrity and cohesion, and the levels of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and urocanic acid (UCA) towards the subclinical barrier defect observed in patients with AD (nonlesional sites). TACo preserved skin barrier function, integrity, cohesion and PCA and UCA levels, while significantly increasing skin hydration to levels comparable with healthy skin. Both treatments reduced skin surface pH and trypsin-like protease activity, with TACo doing so to a significantly greater degree.

CONCLUSION

In quiescent AD, 4 weeks of BMVc treatment adversely affected the biophysical properties of the skin and reduced the levels of natural moisturizing factor, whereas TACo improved the condition of the skin barrier.

The effects of heat on skin barrier function and in vivo dermal absorption

Enhanced delivery of ingredients across the stratum corneum (SC) is of great interest for improving the efficacy of topically applied formulations. Various methods for improving dermal penetration have been reported including galvanic devices and micro-needles. From a safety perspective it is important that such approaches do not compromise SC barrier function. This study investigates the influence of topically applied heat in vivo on the dermal uptake and penetration of a model active, allantoin from gel and lotion formulations. A custom designed device was used to deliver 42°C for 30s daily to human subjects after application of two formulations containing allantoin. The results were compared with sites treated with formulations containing no active and no heat, and a control site. In addition to penetration of allantoin, the integrity of the SC was monitored using trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements. The results showed that just 30s of 42°C topically applied heat was enough to cause significantly more penetration of allantoin from the lotion formulation compared with no application of heat. TEWL data indicated that the integrity of the skin was not compromised by the treatment. However, the application of heat did not promote enhanced penetration of the active from the gel formulation. Vehicle composition is therefore an important factor when considering thermal enhancement strategies for targeting actives to the skin.

Influence of niacinamide containing formulations on the molecular and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum

Niacinamide-containing moisturisers are known be efficacious in alleviating dry skin conditions and improving stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. However, the mechanisms of action of niacinamide at the molecular level in the SC are still not well understood. Previously, we have reported the development of novel methods to probe SC barrier properties in vivo. The aim of the present study was to characterise changes in Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), corneocyte surface area and maturity, selected protease activities and SC thickness after repeated application of a simple vehicle containing niacinamide. A commercial formulation was also included as a reference. The left and right mid-volar forearms of 20 healthy volunteers were used as study sites, to which topical formulations were applied twice daily for 28 days. After successive tape-stripping, corneocyte maturity and surface area were assessed. In addition, activity of the desquamatory kallikrein (KLK) protease enzymes KLK5 and KLK7, and tryptase and plasmin (implicated in inflammatory process) were measured using a fluorogenic probe assay. The amount of protein removed and TEWL were also recorded. SC thickness before and after treatment was determined using Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS). Overall (i) corneocyte maturity and surface area decreased with increasing number of tape strips, (ii) activity of both the desquamatory and inflammatory enzymes was highest in the outer layers of the SC and decreased with depth (iii) TEWL increased as more SC layers were removed. Furthermore, areas treated with formulations containing niacinamide were significantly different to pre-treatment baseline and untreated/vehicle-control treated sites, with larger and more mature corneocytes, decreased inflammatory activity, decreased TEWL and increased SC thickness. These data (a) confirm the utility of measures and metrics developed previously for the non-invasive assay of SC barrier function, (b) present an holistic picture of a SC compartment managing barrier function through dynamic optimisation of pathlength and quality of building materials used, and (c) shed new light on niacinamide as a topical formulation adjunct with unique SC barrier-augmentation properties.

Variation of stratum corneum biophysical and molecular properties with anatomic site

Several serine protease enzymes are known to be involved in both normal desquamation and the inflammatory processes of the skin. Alteration in the activity of these proteases should also affect corneocyte maturity and size as well as stratum corneum thickness. The aim of the present work was to characterise the baseline changes in corneocyte size, corneocyte maturity, selected protease activity (specifically, Kallikreins-5 and 7, tryptase), protein content and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) as a function of anatomic site. The anatomic sites investigated were: cheek, abdomen, wrist and mid-ventral forearm. TEWL values were highest for the cheek (p < 0.05). The TEWL values were also significantly higher (p < 0.05) for cheek and wrist compared with other sites. Protein content was significantly lower for wrist (p < 0.05) compared with other sites. Corneocyte maturity and surface area were significantly (p < 0.05) lower for cheek and wrist compared with other sites. An excellent correlation (r (2) = 0.99) was obtained for maturity and surface area measurements. Kallikrein-5 and tryptase activity were significantly higher for the cheek compared with other sites but Kallikrein-7 values were uniform across sites. The findings have significant implications for skin permeability to drugs and other substances such as environmental toxins depending on the anatomic site of delivery or exposure.

Noninvasive Evaluation of the Chronic Influence of Local Air Velocity from an Air Conditioner Using Salivary Cortisol and Skin Caspase-14 as Biomarkers of Psychosomatic and Environmental Stress

OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the possibility of evaluating the chronic influence of local air velocity from an air conditioner using noninvasive biomarkers. METHODS: Over a consecutive 5-day period, 16 healthy young male adults were exposed to air flow from a whole ceiling-type air conditioner (low local air velocity) and from a commercial concentrated exhaust air conditioner (high local air velocity). Salivary cortisol was used as an index of the psychological effects and caspase-14, collected from the stratum corneum, was used as a marker of environmental stress on the skin. RESULTS: Local air velocity generated from the whole ceiling-type air conditioner where the subject's head was positioned was one-seventh that of the exhaust air conditioner. After exposure to the exhaust air conditioner for 5 days, salivary cortisol decreased significantly from morning to evening and skin caspase-14 gradually increased during the day. A significant increase in hydration index from the morning to the evening was found with the whole ceiling-type air conditioner. CONCLUSION: The effects of chronic exposure to air movement generated by an air conditioner may be quantified by measurement of salivary cortisol and skin caspase-14.

Influence of Aqueous Cream BP on corneocyte size, maturity, skin protease activity, protein content and transepidermal water loss

BACKGROUND

Aqueous Cream BP is frequently prescribed for patients with eczema and is known to induce sensitivity in certain patients and also to decrease the thickness of the stratum corneum (SC). We have previously reported methodology to quantify corneocyte maturity and size, protease activity and protein content within different levels of the SC.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of the present study was to investigate changes in corneocyte size, corneocyte maturity, selected protease activities, protein content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in normal skin after a 28-day application of Aqueous Cream BP.

METHODS

The left and right mid volar forearms of six healthy female volunteers were selected as the study sites. Aqueous Cream BP was applied twice daily to treated sites for 28 days. At the end of this period, the site was tape-stripped and corneocyte maturity, corneocyte size and protease activity of the desquamatory kallikrein proteases, KLK5 and KLK7, and the inflammatory proteases tryptase and plasmin were measured. Protein content and TEWL measurements were also recorded.

RESULTS

Corneocyte maturity and size decreased with increasing number of tape strips, and were significantly lower in treated sites compared with untreated sites. Protease activity and TEWL values were higher (P < 0·05) for the treated sites compared with untreated sites. The amount of protein removed from deeper layers of treated sites was significantly lower than from untreated sites.

CONCLUSIONS

We report rapid minimally invasive measures of the effects of Aqueous Cream BP at the cellular and molecular level of the skin. Treatment with this formulation is associated with increased desquamatory and inflammatory protease activity. Changes in corneocyte maturity and size are also indicative of accelerated skin turnover induced by chronic application of this emollient. These findings question firmly the routine prescription of this preparation as a moisturizer in patients with atopic dermatitis.

In vitro vs. in vivo tape stripping: validation of the porcine ear model and penetration assessment of novel sucrose stearate emulsions

Porcine ear skin is frequently used as a substitute for human skin in dermatological research and is especially useful for tape stripping experiments where the penetration of active substances into the uppermost skin layers is investigated. However, certain differences between the surface properties of these skin types exist, and reports on the comparability of tape stripping data obtained in vitro using porcine ear skin and data obtained in vivo on human forearm skin are scarce. Thus, we performed comparative tape stripping experiments in which the skin penetration of curcumin and fluorescein sodium from conventional microemulsions and hydrogels was investigated. In this context, the skin penetration potential of novel semi-solid macroemulsions and fluid nanoemulsions based on sucrose stearate was evaluated as well. The removed corneocytes were quantified by NIR-densitometry using recent correlation data for human and porcine proteins. The trends observed for the skin penetration into porcine ear skin were highly representative for the in vivo situation on human skin, confirming that the porcine ear is an excellent in vitro model for tape stripping experiments. Moreover, the validity of the NIR-densitometric approach for the quantification of both human and porcine stratum corneum proteins was confirmed in this study for the first time.

Noninvasive biosensor for cathepsin L in the stratum corneum

PURPOSE

The objective is to propose an on-site testing biosensor of cathepsin L (CatL) activity in the stratum corneum, which can be used for the evaluation of skin conditions noninvasively and easily.

METHODS

The biosensor comprises of a disposable test strip and a desktop-sized reader (260 × 150 × 290 mm(3), 1.9 kg), incorporating a charge-coupled device image sensor (CCD) unit to measure the reflectance of the test strip. A novel immuno-chromatographic test strip was proposed for CatL analysis in the stratum corneum. In order to realize the test strip, a colloidal gold technique was selected as the molecular recognition method for the CatL. A human skin sample was collected noninvasively by adhesive tape stripping.

RESULTS

Based on optimal assay conditions, the sensitivity of the biosensor was evaluated. It required 10 min from a sample dropping to appear the test line on the test strip. The optical density was proportion to the CatL. Bioanalytical validation indicated that, within the biosensor's detection limit (172.2 μU/mL), its accuracy (R(2) = 0.94), and precision (CV = 15%) approach more elaborate laboratory-based analyzers. In addition, the truncated sampling-reporting cycle (<15 min) allows speedy reporting of CatL levels.

CONCLUSION

It was indicated that this noninvasive and easy-to use biosensor might be a novel tool for the semi-quantitative analysis of CatL in the stratum corneum.

An analytical technique for measuring protein carbonyl in the stratum corneum using surface plasmon resonance

Protein carbonyl groups in the stratum corneum may be used as a biomarker for skin photo-stress. To evaluate the relationship between the protein carbonyl to total protein (TP) ratio (carbonylation ratio) and skin photo-stress, the authors established a methodology by which protein carbonyl can be easily and highly sensitively analysed using an optical technique based on surface plasmon resonance (SPR). To collect the stratum corneum, tape stripping was employed. Firstly, the protein carbonyl was reacted with 2,4-dinitrobenzenesulfonic acid dihydrate, and the quantity of dinitrophenylated (DNP)-protein carbonyl was determined using an anti-dinitrophenyl (anti-DNP) antibody. The mass of DNP-protein carbonyl was measured using SPR. A truncated sampling-reporting cycle of <5 min allowed speedy reporting of DNP-protein carbonyl levels. A significant difference was observed in the protein carbonyl/TP ratio (carbonylation ratio) between a sun-protected area (mid-ventral arm) and a sun-exposed area (upper cheek, P < 0.05). Additionally, the carbonylation ratio of the sun-exposed area showed a higher value than that of the sun-protected area. It was suggested that the carbonylation ratio might be a useful index of skin photo-stress.

Increased mass levels of certain serine proteases in the stratum corneum in acute eczematous atopic skin

Acute eczematous atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with increases in stratum corneum (SC) serine protease activity. The purpose of this study was to examine whether the increased SC protease activities in acute eczematous atopic dermatitis were associated with increased mass levels of SC proteases. Six subjects with healthy skin and six patients with AD each with non-lesional skin or lesional acute eczematous skin had the mass levels of their extractable SC kallikreins (KLK), plasmin and urokinase quantified using Luminex multiplex bead-based assays from SC tape strippings. The mass levels of KLK5 and KLK14 together with urokinase were not elevated in the SC in atopic skin. However, the mass levels of KLK7 and KLK11 together with plasmin were greatly elevated compared with the extracts from the non-lesional and the healthy skin and correlated with the corresponding enzymatic activities.