The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

Chemical Composition and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities of Fatty Acids Obtained from Heterotrophic Microalgae, S. limacinum and C. cohnii

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme for melanin production in plant and mammalian cells. Upregulation of this enzyme results in hyperpigmentation disorders. In order to treat pigmentation problems, novel skin whitening compounds are extremely screened. It is found that fatty acids based on their saturation levels either increase or decrease tyrosinase enzyme activity. Thus, fatty acids and their compositions are promising candidates for the treatment of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation disorders. Microalgae are rich in both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, as well. In this study, C. cohnii and S. limacinum fatty acids were evaluated as tyrosinase inhibitor candidates. Mushroom tyrosinase activity studies displayed that both extracts increase tyrosinase enzyme activity dose-dependently. On the other hand, S. limacinum at 200 µg ml^-1 concentration almost decreased half of tyrosinase enzyme activity in B16-F10 cells. Besides, it was 3 times more efficient for tyrosinase enzyme activity inhibition and 2 times more effective to decrease melanin synthesis compared to C. cohnii. Considering low toxicity to B16-F10 melanoma and healthy keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), S. limacinum fatty acids could be a suitable source for lipid-based tyrosinase inhibitory functional cosmetics products.

Skin lightening effect of natural extracts coming from Senegal botanical biodiversity

BACKGROUND

Skin depigmentation is increasingly oriented toward plant extracts because of harmfulness of depigmenting active ingredients used in cosmetics and dermatology. Reconstructed human pigmented epidermis (RHPE) is the closest in vitro model to human skin and offers the possibility to test the global depigmenting effect of a plant extract. These co-cultures of keratinocytes and melanocytes are the most advanced and newest models for testing depigmentation, and until now very few studies have been done with these cultures. We investigated the cytotoxicity and the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and melanogenesis of four extracts from Combretum micranthum (G. Don) leaves, Anacardium occidentale (L.) fruits, Moringa oleifera (Lam.) seeds, and Adansonia digitata (L.) seeds.

METHODS

The vegetal extracts were obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction and the vegetal oils by maceration. Anti-tyrosinase properties of two aqueous extracts were evaluated. Then, the cytotoxicity and depigmenting effects of these plant extracts were tested in vitro with RHPE model delivered by SkinEthic^® .

RESULTS

Antityrosinase activities were found to be 84.58% and 31.02% for C. micranthum and A. occidentale, respectively. All extracts, except A. occidentale, showed to be nontoxic. C. micranthum, M. oleifera, A. digitata, and mixture of M. oleifera and A. digitata extracts have shown, for the first time, an in vitro depigmenting activity equivalent or even more important than kojic acid.

CONCLUSIONS

These natural extracts coming from Senegal botanical biodiversity could be used in cosmetic and dermatology as alternative agents to achieve skin depigmentation. Further study should be focused on the mechanism of action of these plant extracts.

Identification of Passion Fruit Oil Adulteration by Chemometric Analysis of FTIR Spectra

Passion fruit oil is a high-value product with applications in the food and cosmetic sectors. It is frequently diluted with sunflower oil. Sunflower oil is also a potential adulterant as its addition does not notably alter the appearance of the passion fruit oil. In this paper, we show that this is also true for the FTIR spectrum. However, the chemometric analysis of the data changes this situation. Principal component analysis (PCA) enables not only the straightforward discrimination of pure passion fruit oil and adulterated samples but also the unambiguous classification of passion fruit oil products from five different manufacturers. Even small amounts—significantly below 1%—of the adulterant can be detected. Furthermore, partial least-squares regression (PLSR) facilitates the quantification of the amount of sunflower oil added to the passion fruit oil. The results demonstrate that the combination of FTIR spectroscopy and chemometric data analysis is a very powerful tool to analyze passion fruit oil.