Noninvasive evaluation of the influence of aucubin-containing cosmetic macroemulsion on selected skin parameters

Longitudinal study of the interplay between the skin barrier and facial microbiome over 1 year

Skin is a diverse ecosystem that provides a habitat for microorganisms. The skin condition and the skin microbiome interact each other under diverse environmental conditions. This study was conducted on 10 study participants for a one-year, from September 2020 to August 2021, to investigate the variability of skin microbiome and skin biophysical parameters [TEWL, hydration, and elasticity (R5)] according to season, and to understand the interplay between skin microbiome and skin characteristics. We identified that Cutibacterium, Corynebacterium, Staphyloccocus, unclassified genus within Neisseriaceae, and Streptococcus were major skin microbial taxa at the genus level, and fluctuated with the seasons. Cutibacterium was more abundant in winter, while Corynebacterium, Staphylococcus, and Streptococcus were more abundant in summer. Notably, Cutibacterium and skin barrier parameter, TEWL, exhibited a co-decreasing pattern from winter to summer and showed a significant association between Cutibacterium and TEWL. Furthermore, functional profiling using KEGG provided clues on the impact of Cutibacterium on the host skin barrier. This study enhances our understanding of the skin microbiome and its interplay with skin characteristics and highlights the importance of seasonal dynamics in shaping skin microbial composition.

Cera-Glow, ferment lysates of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus IDCC 3201, improves skin barrier function in clinical study

BACKGROUND

Ceramides are essential lipids in stratum corneum for skin permeability barrier function in that they retain the skin moisture and protect from the invasion of foreign pathogens. Previously, we demonstrated that ferment lysates of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus IDCC 3201 enhanced ceramide production in human epidermal keratinocytes. Furthermore, for comprehensive knowledge of this effect, in vitro experiments and multi-omics analysis were conducted to explore the underlying mechanisms.

AIMS

This study was designed to identify whether a cosmetic sample (i.e., Cera-Glow) containing the lysates improves the skin barrier function in clinical trials.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Twenty-four female participants (45.46 ± 9.78 years) had been enrolled in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement for 5 days and 21 female participants (50.33 ± 5.74 years) had undergone a skin hydration evaluation for 4 weeks. TEWL and skin hydration were evaluated using a Tewameter and the Epsilon Permittivity Imaging System, respectively. After applying the Cera-Glow sample, all participants recorded a satisfaction survey questionnaire (e.g., satisfaction, efficacy, and adverse reactions).

RESULTS

Application of Cera-Glow significantly improved transepidermal water loss induced by 1% (w/v) sodium lauryl sulfate (p < 0.05-0.01) and increased skin hydration (p < 0.01). Metabolic analysis suggested that Cera-Glow should contain beneficial gradients for skin barrier function. According to the questionnaire, most of participants were satisfied with the skin hydration improvement and efficacy of Cera-Glow.

CONCLUSIONS

Cera-Glow, ferment lysates of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus IDCC 3201, can significantly improve skin barrier function.

Oral Supplementation with Z-Isomer-Rich Astaxanthin Inhibits Ultraviolet Light-Induced Skin Damage in Guinea Pigs

The effect of oral supplementation with astaxanthin of different Z-isomer ratios on ultraviolet (UV) light-induced skin damage in guinea pigs was investigated. Astaxanthin with a high Z-isomer content was prepared from the all-E-isomer via thermal isomerization. Intact (all-E)-astaxanthin and the prepared Z-isomer-rich astaxanthin were suspended in soybean oil and fed to guinea pigs for three weeks. The UV-light irradiation was applied to the dorsal skin on the seventh day after the start of the test diet supplementation, and skin parameters, such as elasticity, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and pigmentation (melanin and erythema values), were evaluated. The accumulation of astaxanthin in the dorsal skin was almost the same after consumption of the all-E-isomer-rich astaxanthin diet (E-AST-D; total Z-isomer ratio = 3.2%) and the Z-isomer-rich astaxanthin diet (Z-AST-D; total Z-isomer ratio = 84.4%); however, the total Z-isomer ratio of astaxanthin in the skin was higher in the case of the Z-AST-D supplementation. Both diets inhibited UV light-induced skin-damaging effects, such as the reduction in elasticity and the increase in TEWL level. Between E-AST-D and Z-AST-D, Z-AST-D showed better skin-protective ability against UV-light exposure than E-AST-D, which might be because of the greater UV-light-shielding ability of astaxanthin Z-isomers than the all-E-isomer. Furthermore, supplementation with Z-AST-D resulted in a greater reduction in skin pigmentation caused by astaxanthin accumulation compared to that of E-AST-D. This study indicates that dietary astaxanthin accumulates in the skin and appears to prevent UV light-induced skin damage, and the Z-isomers are more potent oral sunscreen agents than the all-E-isomer.

Paclitaxel Induces Epidermal Molecular Changes and Produces Subclinical Alterations in the Skin of Gynecological Cancer Patients

Simple Summary

Skin toxicity is one of paclitaxel’s adverse effects. However, its real impact on the skin could be underestimated as these alterations can also appear asymptomatic. We have observed that paclitaxel modifies gene and protein expression of skin markers in a 3D epidermis model, and impairs physical, physiological, and biomechanical properties of the skin in gynecologic cancer patients. These subclinical alterations might be avoided by using prophylactic measures during treatment to prevent possible future adverse reactions.

Abstract

Background: Paclitaxel is a microtubule-stabilizing chemotherapeutic agent. Despite its widespread use, it damages healthy tissues such as skin. The goal of this study was to prove that the real impact of paclitaxel-induced skin toxicity could be underestimated because the adverse events might appear asymptomatic. Methods: Gynecological cancer patients were recruited. Skin parameters measurements were taken after three and six paclitaxel cycles. Measurements were conducted using specific probes which measure hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum, elasticity and firmness, erythema, roughness, smoothness, skin thickness, and desquamation levels. Further, a 3D epidermis model was incubated with paclitaxel to analyze gene and protein expression of aquaporin 3, collagen type 1, elastin, and fibronectin. Results: Paclitaxel induced alterations in the skin parameters with no visible clinical manifestations. Gynecological cancer patients under paclitaxel treatment had a decrease in hydration, TEWL, sebum, elasticity, and thickness of the skin, while erythema, roughness, and desquamation were increased. The molecular markers, related to hydration and the support of the skin layers, and analyzed in the 3D epidermis model, were decreased. Conclusions: Results suggest that paclitaxel modifies gene and protein expression of skin-related molecular markers, and impairs different physical, physiological, and biomechanical properties of the skin of cancer patients at a subclinical level.

'All-natural' anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation

OBJECTIVE

The growing consumers' preferences and concerns regarding healthy ageing, youthful skin appearance, environmental protection and sustainability have triggered an ever-increasing trend towards natural, eco-friendly and ethically sourced anti-ageing products. Accordingly, this paper describes design and evaluation of novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums, completely based on ingredients of natural origin, intended for improving facial fine lines and wrinkles.

METHODS

Model formulations, stabilized by an innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate) and containing Acmella oleracea extract as a model anti-ageing active, were prepared by cold process and fully assessed regarding their rheological behaviour (continuous rotational and oscillatory tests) and physical stability (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis - DMTA test). To study and optimize the simultaneous influence of varied formulation factors (emollients and emulsifier concentrations) on critical rheological attributes of the developed serums, a central composite design within 'design of experiments' approach was employed. The general skin performance - preliminary safety and anti-wrinkle efficacy of selected model serum, was evaluated in human volunteers, by employing several objective, non-invasive bioengineering techniques.

RESULTS

Rheological characterization revealed favourable shear-thinning flow behaviour with yield point, and dominating elastic character (storage modulus G' > loss modulus G") in both amplitude and frequency sweeps, which together with relatively small structural change obtained in DMTA test indicated overall satisfying rheological and stability properties of formulated serums. From the established design space, and taking into account formulation cost and carbon footprint, promising model serum (desired/optimal apparent viscosity, yield point and loss factor, rather small and constant structural change), containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier, was chosen for in vivo evaluations. Screening of skin irritation effects revealed the absence of potential irritancy of investigated serum, suggesting overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety. Silicone skin replica image analysis demonstrated noticeable reduction/improvement in all measured skin wrinkle parameters after only 2 weeks of test serum application in periorbital and perioral areas, indicating its rapid and beneficial effects on the facial expression lines and wrinkles.

CONCLUSION

Altogether, the results corroborate the promising potential of the developed Acmella oleracea extract-loaded emulsion serum as safe, effective and non-invasive natural anti-wrinkle product.

Lipid Nanoparticles Loaded with Selected Iridoid Glycosides as Effective Components of Hydrogel Formulations

One possibility of improving active ingredient penetration into deeper skin layers to enhance the cosmetic product effectiveness, is the application of lipid nanoparticles. The aim of the study presented in this paper was to evaluate the potential of hydrogel formulations enriched with iridoid glycosides-loaded lipid nanoparticles. Lipid nanocarriers were produced using an emulsification-ultrasonication method based on multiple emulsions. The encapsulation efficiency was determined at the level of 89% and 77% for aucubin and catalpol, respectively. The next stage was the incorporation of the obtained dispersions of lipid nanoparticles into hydrogel formulations, followed by determination of their physicochemical properties, shelf-life stability, and application properties (in vivo tests). The introduction of lipid nanoparticles increased the stabilization of the consistency of the obtained hydrogel formulations, and was confirmed by viscosity measurements. No effect of lipid nanoparticle incorporation on shelf-life stability of the hydrogels was detected. In vivo studies showed improvements in moisture content of the epidermis, transepidermal water loss, skin topography, and macrorelief parameters. In particular, a synergistic effect of the active ingredients and lipid nanoparticles on the anti-wrinkle effect, moisturizing effect, and regeneration of the protective barrier of the stratum corneum was evidenced. The attractiveness of aucubin and catalpol as cosmetic raw materials in hydrogel formulations was evidenced, especially when the iridoid glycosides were applied in the form of lipid nanoparticles.

Histochemical and Phytochemical Analysis of Lamium album subsp. album L. Corolla: Essential Oil, Triterpenes, and Iridoids

The aim of this study was to conduct a histochemical analysis to localize lipids, terpenes, essential oil, and iridoids in the trichomes of the L. album subsp. album corolla. Morphometric examinations of individual trichome types were performed. Light and scanning electron microscopy techniques were used to show the micromorphology and localization of lipophilic compounds and iridoids in secretory trichomes with the use of histochemical tests. Additionally, the content of essential oil and its components were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Qualitative analyses of triterpenes carried out using high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC) coupled with densitometric detection, and the iridoid content expressed as aucubin was examined with spectrophotometric techniques. We showed the presence of iridoids and different lipophilic compounds in papillae and glandular and non-glandular trichomes. On average, the flowers of L. album subsp. album yielded 0.04 mL/kg of essential oil, which was dominated by aldehydes, sesquiterpenes, and alkanes. The extract of the L. album subsp. album corolla contained 1.5 × 10^-3 ± 4.3 × 10^-4 mg/mL of iridoid aucubin and three triterpenes: oleanolic acid, β-amyrin, and β-amyrin acetate. Aucubin and β-amyrin acetate were detected for the first time. We suggest the use of L. album subsp. album flowers as supplements in human nutrition.