Amino acid complex (AAComplex) benefits in cosmetic products: In vitro and in vivo clinical studies

Bioconversion of agriculture by-products with functionally enhanced Streptomyces sp. SCUT-3: Fish skin as a model

With the global population continuously rising, efficient bioconversion of inedible agricultural by-products is crucial for human food and energy sustainability. We here propose solid-state fermentation approaches to efficiently convert biopolymers into oligomers/monomers by accelerating the natural degradation process of the versatile Streptomyces sp. strain SCUT-3. Using fish skin as a representative by-product, 54.3 g amino acids and 14.7 g peptides (91 % < 2500 Da) were recovered from 89.0 g protein in 100 g tilapia skin sample by collagenase-overexpressed SCUT-3 for seven days at a 1:4 substrate:liquid ratio. Fish skin collagen hydrolysates exhibited excellent anti-oxidation, anti-hypertension, scratch-repairing, anti-aging, anti-ultraviolet radiation, and anti-inflammation effects on human skin fibroblasts In vitro and zebrafish larvae in vivo, indicating their potential applications in healthcare/skincare and anti-atopic dermatitis. As Laozi said, the divine law follows nature. This study underscores the efficacy of genetically engineered SCUT-3 according to its natural biomass utilization laws in large-scale biopolymer conversion.

Probing pharmaceutically important amino acids L-isoleucine and L-tyrosine Solubilities: Unraveling the solvation thermodynamics in diverse mixed solvent systems

The study specifically investigates the solubilities of L-isoleucine and L-tyrosine in water-mixed solvent systems (DMF, DMSO, and ACN), exploring the behaviour of amino acids in complex environments. The experimental methods prioritize meticulous solvent purification to ensure reliable results. The work explores solubility data, uncovering temperature-dependent trends and intricate interactions influencing solubility in the chosen mixed solvent systems. The study emphasizes the impact of thermodynamic properties, solvent-solvent interactions, and amino acid structure on solubility patterns. The broader implications highlight the relevance of understanding amino acid behaviour in diverse solvent environments, offering potential applications in cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. The distinct solubility patterns contribute valuable insights, enhancing on the understanding of the solution stability and interactions of L-isoleucine and L-tyrosine in different solvent systems. In conclusion, work suggests the enhanced utilization of L-isoleucine and L-tyrosine in various industries, driven by a profound understanding of their solubility in mixed solvent systems. The research expands our knowledge of amino acid behaviour, paving the way for advancements in industries relying on protein-based products and technologies.

Innovative approaches for amino acid production via consolidated bioprocessing of agricultural biomass

Agricultural plantations in Indonesia and Malaysia yield substantial waste, necessitating proper disposal to address environmental concerns. Yet, these wastes, rich in starch and lignocellulosic content, offer an opportunity for value-added product development, particularly amino acid production. Traditional methods often rely on costly commercial enzymes to convert biomass into fermentable sugars for amino acid production. An alternative, consolidated bioprocessing, enables the direct conversion of agricultural biomass into amino acids using selected microorganisms. This review provides a comprehensive assessment of the potential of agricultural biomass in Indonesia and Malaysia for amino acid production through consolidated bioprocessing. It explores suitable microorganisms and presents a case study on using Bacillus subtilis ATCC 6051 to produce 9.56 mg/mL of amino acids directly from pineapple plant stems. These findings contribute to the advancement of sustainable amino acid production methods using agricultural biomass especially in Indonesia and Malaysia through consolidated bioprocessing, reducing waste and enhancing environmental sustainability.

L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits

OBJECTIVE

Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing.

METHODS

In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles.

RESULTS

In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation.

CONCLUSION

L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.

In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Evaluation of a Juniperus communis Callus Culture Extract and Matricaria recutita Processing Waste Extract Combination as a Cosmetic Ingredient

For skin health promotion and cosmetic applications, combinations of plant cell extracts are extensively utilized. As most natural ingredient suppliers offer crude extracts from individual plants or specific isolated compounds, the potential interactions between them are assessed in the development phase of cosmetic products. The industry seeks extract combinations that have undergone optimization and scrutiny for their bioactivities. This study presents a combination of two sustainably produced botanical ingredients and outlines their chemical composition, in vitro safety, and bioactivity for skin health enhancement. The amalgamation comprises the extract of Matricaria recutita processing waste and the extract from Juniperus communis callus culture. Chemical analysis revealed distinct compounds within the extracts, and their combination led to a broader array of potentially synergistic compounds. In vitro assessments on skin cells demonstrated that the combination possesses robust antioxidant properties and the ability to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, along with regulating collagen type I and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) production by dermal fibroblasts. The identified traits of this combination render it an appealing cosmetic component. To the best of our knowledge, this represents the first case when the extracts derived from medicinal plant processing waste and biotechnological plant cell cultivation processes have been combined and evaluated for their bioactivity.

Effect of L-4-Thiazolylalanine (Protinol™) on skin barrier strength and skin protection

OBJECTIVES

Skin barrier properties are critical for maintaining epidermal water content, protecting from environmental factors and providing the first line of defense against pathogens. In this study, we investigated the non-proteinogenic amino acid L-4-Thiazolylalanine (L4) as a potential active ingredient in skin protection and barrier strength.

METHODS

L4 on wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties were evaluated using monolayers and 3D skin equivalents. The transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value was used in vitro as a strong indicator of barrier strength and integrity. Clinical L4 efficacy was assessed for the evaluation of the skin barrier integrity and soothing benefits.

RESULTS

In vitro treatments of L4 show beneficial effects in wound closure mechanism, and we demonstrate that L4 anti-oxidant benefits with markedly increased HSP70 and decreased reactive oxygen species production induced by UVs exposure. Barrier strength and integrity were significantly improved by L4, confirmed clinically by an increase in 12R-lipoxygenase enzymatic activity in the stratum corneum. In addition, soothing benefits of L4 have been shown clinically with the decrease in redness after methyl nicotinate application on the inner arm and the significant reduction of the erythema and the skin desquamation on the scalp.

CONCLUSION

L4 delivered multiple skin benefits by strengthening the skin barrier, accelerating the skin repair process as well as soothing the skin and the scalp with anti-inflammaging effects. The observed efficacy validates L4 as a desirable skincare ingredient for topical treatment.

Genome-Wide Pathway Exploration of the Epidermidibacterium keratini EPI-7T

Functional cosmetics industries using skin microbiome screening and beneficial materials isolated from key microorganisms are receiving increasing attention. Since Epidermidibacterium keratini EPI-7T was first discovered in human skin, previous studies have confirmed that it can produce a new pyrimidine compound, 1,1'-biuracil, having anti-aging effects on human skin. Therefore, we conducted genomic analyses to judge the use value of E. keratini EPI-7T and provide up-to-date information. Whole-genome sequencing analysis of E. keratini EPI-7T was performed to generate new complete genome and annotation information. E. keratini EPI-7T genome was subjected to comparative genomic analysis with a group of closely-related strains and skin flora strains through bioinformatic analysis. Furthermore, based on annotation information, we explored metabolic pathways for valuable substances that can be used in functional cosmetics. In this study, the whole-genome sequencing (WGS) and annotation results of E. keratini EPI-7T were improved, and through comparative analysis, it was confirmed that the E. keratini EPI-7T has more metabolite-related genes than comparison strains. In addition, we annotated the vital genes for biosynthesis of 20 amino acids, orotic acid, riboflavin (B2) and chorismate. In particular, we were able to prospect that orotic acid could accumulate inside E. keratini EPI-7T under uracil-enriched conditions. Therefore, through a genomics approach, this study aims to provide genetic information for the hidden potential of E. keratini EPI-7T and the strain development and biotechnology utilization to be conducted in further studies.

Assessment of Cucurbita spp. Peel Extracts as Potential Sources of Active Substances for Skin Care and Dermatology

By-products of cultivated plants are one of the major environmental concerns worldwide. Due to the high concentration of bioactive chemicals, such waste may be considered hazardous due to the interference with the plant growth, deterioration of the drinking water quality or toxic effects on sensitive marine organisms. Moreover, plant-derived by-products, with proper handling, may represent a low-cost source of bioactive compounds potentially important for pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant activity, the influence of tyrosinase activity, in vitro sun protecting factor and cytotoxicity of 15 extracts from peels of five cultivars of Cucurbita maxima and C. moschata. The extracts were prepared using “green solvents” (water, 50% propylene glycol, and 20% ethanol) and ultrasound-assisted extraction. The performed analysis showed that the peel extracts from various cultivars differ significantly in respect to the phytochemical content and activity. The type of solvent also had a significant impact on the extract’s composition and bioactivity. Aqueous peel extracts contained the highest amounts of flavonoids, showed the greatest antioxidant potential and the most significant in vitro SPF values. In vitro studies showed that the analyzed peel extracts are not cytotoxic for human keratinocytes up to the concentration of 1000 µg/mL and thus might be considered as non-irritant for the skin. The study confirms the potential application of peel extracts from Cucurbita spp. cultivars in cosmetic products.