Effect of emulsifiers on drying stress and intercellular cohesion in human stratum corneum

OBJECTIVES

Emulsifier molecules, with their amphiphilic character, are ubiquitous in moisturizing creams and primarily serve to disperse the water-insoluble molecules such as emollients, oils, lipids and fats in water. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of emulsifier molecules on the barrier and biomechanical properties of human stratum corneum (SC) and to compare the efficacy of emulsifier molecules when used in a fully formulated moisturizing cream.

METHODS

We employed methods based on thin-film mechanics to measure the drying stress and intercellular cohesion in the SC. The emulsifier molecules or moisturizing creams formulated with them were applied to a fully hydrated SC adhered to a glass substrate. In-plane stress developed in the SC during drying was then measured by tracking changes in the curvature of the glass substrate. The intercellular cohesion within the SC was measured by means of a double cantilever beam (DCB) set-up, where the treated or untreated SC was sandwiched between two substrates, and the delamination energy calculated by measuring the force required to drive a crack through the SC. Moisturizing cream diffusivity through the stratum corneum was measured by spectroscopic technique and related to internal SC stress and fracture energy.

RESULTS

We observe significant differences in the biomechanical behaviour of SC when moisturizing creams with different emulsifier molecules are applied on isolated stratum corneum ex vivo. The reduction in maximum stress varied between 12% and 26% depending on the emulsifier molecules used in the formulation. The intercellular cohesion and the diffusion of molecules in the formulated moisturizing creams through the SC were also found to be strongly dependent on the type of emulsifier molecule used in the formulation.

CONCLUSIONS

The biomechanical and barrier properties of the human stratum corneum show strong dependence on the emulsifier molecule used in the moisturizing creams, even when the creams included only ~3 weight% emulsifier molecules. Moreover, we found that the reduction in SC peak stress was strongly correlated with the formulation diffusivity into the SC. The moisturizing creams diffusing fastest into the SC had the largest reduction in peak stress and vice versa.

Changes in skin barrier function following long-term treatment with moisturizers, a randomized controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Moisturizers are commonly used by patients with dry skin conditions as well as people with healthy skin. Previous studies on short-term treatment have shown that moisturizers can weaken or strengthen skin barrier function and also influence skin barrier recovery. However, knowledge of the effects on skin barrier function of long-term treatment with moisturizers is still scarce.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the impact of long-term treatment with moisturizers on the barrier function of normal skin, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and susceptibility to an irritant, and to relate those effects to the composition of the designed experimental moisturizers.

METHODS

Volunteers (n = 78) were randomized into five groups. Each group treated one volar forearm for 7 weeks with one of the following preparations: (i) one of three simplified creams, containing only a few ingredients in order to minimize the complexity of the system; (ii) a lipid-free gel; (iii) one ordinary cream, containing 5% urea, which has previously been shown to decrease TEWL. The lipids in the simplified creams were either hydrocarbons or vegetable triglyceride oil, and one of them also contained 5% urea. After 7 weeks, treated and control forearms were exposed for 24 h to sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) using a patch test. TEWL, blood flow and skin capacitance of both SLS-exposed and undamaged skin were evaluated 24 h after removal of patches. Additionally, a 24-h irritancy patch test of all test preparations was performed on 11 volunteers in order to check their possible acute irritancy potential.

RESULTS

Changes were found in the barrier function of normal skin after 7 weeks of treatment with the test preparations. The simplified creams and the lipid-free gel increased TEWL and skin response to SLS, while the ordinary cream had the opposite effect. One of the simplified creams also decreased skin capacitance. All test preparations were shown to be nonirritant, both by short-term irritancy patch test and by measurement of blood flow after long-term treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

Moisturizers influence the skin barrier function of normal skin, as measured by TEWL and susceptibility to SLS. Moreover, the effect on skin barrier function is determined by the composition of the moisturizer. The ingredients which influence the skin barrier function need to be identified, and the mechanism clarified at the molecular level.

Artificial reduction in transepidermal water loss improves skin barrier function

BACKGROUND

Artificial reduction of abnormal transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is considered to improve skin diseases associated with a defective barrier function. Treatment of the skin with moisturizers is also known to influence skin barrier function. Whether or not differences in occlusion between creams contribute to their effects on the skin barrier function is unknown.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the long-term effects of a semipermeable membrane on the skin barrier function in normal skin. In addition, the occlusive properties of two creams were studied.

METHODS

The study was randomized, controlled and evaluator-blind using measurement of TEWL and skin susceptibility to sodium lauryl sulphate as indicators of skin barrier function.

RESULTS

Coating of the skin with a silicone membrane for 23 h per day for 3 weeks improved skin barrier function, whereas no significant changes were found after using the membrane for 8 h per day.

CONCLUSIONS

Differences between creams in terms of their effect on skin barrier function cannot be solely explained by their occlusive properties.