Safety Assessment of Alkyl Betaines as Used in Cosmetics

Green Extraction of Depsidones and Depsides from Hypogymnia physodes (L.) Nyl. Using Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents

Various studies have shown that Hypogymnia physodes are a source of many biologically active compounds, including lichen acids. These lichen-specific compounds are characterized by antioxidant, antiproliferative, and antimicrobial properties, and they can be used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. The main aim of this study was to optimize the composition of natural deep eutectic solvents based on proline or betaine and lactic acid for the extraction of metabolites from H. physodes. The design of the experimental method and the response surface approach allowed the optimization of the extraction process of specific lichen metabolites. Based on preliminary research, a multivariate model of the experiment was developed. For optimization, the following parameters were employed in the experiment to confirm the model: a proline/lactic acid/water molar ratio of 1:2:2. Such a mixture allowed the efficient extraction of three depsidones (i.e., physodic acid, physodalic acid, 3-hydroyphysodic acid) and one depside (i.e., atranorin). The developed composition of the solvent mixtures ensured good efficiency when extracting the metabolites from the thallus of H. physodes with high antioxidant properties.

A Study of the Micellar Formation of N-Alkyl Betaine Ethyl Ester Chlorides Based on the Physicochemical Properties of Their Aqueous Solutions

In this study, a series of four surface-active compounds-N-alkyl betaine ethyl ester chlorides, CnBetC2Cl-were synthesized and characterized in aqueous solutions. As with other alkyl betaines, these amphiphiles can be practically used, for example, as co-surfactants and/or solubility enhancers acting according to hydrotropic or micellar mechanisms, depending on the alkyl chain length in the amine. We focused on the representatives of the medium alkyl chain length (C6-C12) to find the dependence between the alkyl chain length in N-alkyl betaine ethyl ester chlorides and the surface, volumetric, acoustic, and viscometric properties of their solutions. Ethyl esters, the derivatives of amino acids, were chosen to increase functionality and take advantage of possible hydrolysis in solutions at higher pH, which is also a key parameter in biodegradability. The micellization parameters were calculated based on the physicochemical characteristics. We focused our interest on the ester with a dodecyl substituent since we can compare and discuss its properties with some other C12 representatives that are available in literature. Surprisingly, its micellization characteristic is almost temperature-independent in the investigated temperature range, t = (15-45) °C. Particularly interesting are the results of dynamic light scattering (DLS), which show that the changes in physicochemical parameters of the C12 homolog around the CMC are caused by the two types of micelles of different sizes present in solutions.

Safety Assessment of Alkyl Sultaines as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 13 alkyl sultaines, which are most frequently reported to function in cosmetics as antistatic agents, surfactants, and skin and hair conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed the available data to determine the safety of these ingredients. The Panel noted gaps in the available safety data for some of the alkyl sultaines in this safety assessment; the available data on some of the ingredients are sufficient, however, and can be read across to support the safety of other members of the group. The Panel concluded that these alkyl sultaines are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Betaine as a Functional Ingredient: Metabolism, Health-Promoting Attributes, Food Sources, Applications and Analysis Methods

Betaine is a non-essential amino acid with proven functional properties and underutilized potential. The most common dietary sources of betaine are beets, spinach, and whole grains. Whole grains-such as quinoa, wheat and oat brans, brown rice, barley, etc.-are generally considered rich sources of betaine. This valuable compound has gained popularity as an ingredient in novel and functional foods due to the demonstrated health benefits that it may provide. This review study will provide an overview of the various natural sources of betaine, including different types of food products, and explore the potential of betaine as an innovative functional ingredient. It will thoroughly discuss its metabolic pathways and physiology, disease-preventing and health-promoting properties, and further highlight the extraction procedures and detection methods in different matrices. In addition, gaps in the existing scientific literature will be emphasized.

Prevention of skin lesions caused by the use of protective face masks by an innovative gelatin-based hydrogel patch: design and in vitro studies

The recent Covid-19 pandemics led to the increased use of facial masks, which can cause skin lesions due to continuous pressure, tension and friction forces on the skin. A preventive approach is the inclusion of dressings between the face and the mask. However, there are still uncertainties about the protective effect of dressings and whether their use compromises the efficiency of masks. The current study aimed to develop and test the efficacy of a gelatin-based hydrogel patch to be placed between the mask and the facial area. Design of Experiment with a Quality by Design approach tools were used in the patch development and in vitro characterization was performed through rheological evaluation, ATR-FTIR and molecular docking studies. Furthermore, tribology studies were performed to test the patch performance. The results showed that the addition of excipients enhanced gelation temperature, elasticity and adhesiveness parameters. The interactions between excipients were confirmed by ATR-FTIR and molecular docking. The tribology assay revealed similar friction values at room and physiological temperature, and when testing different skin types. In conclusion, the physical properties and the performance evaluation reported in this study indicate that this innovative film-forming system can be used to prevent skin lesions caused by the continuous use of protective masks.

Skin Barrier Enhancing Alternative Preservation Strategy of O/W Emulsions by Water Activity Reduction with Natural Multifunctional Ingredients

Water activity (aw) as an important parameter for self-preservation can help to control microbial growth in cosmetic formulations. However, high amounts of water-binding substances are required to lower the aw enough to affect microbial growth. Since consequences for the skin barrier have been poorly studied so far, we investigated the effect of aw-lowering agents on both the antimicrobial properties of o/w emulsions and skin physiological parameters. A combination of selected natural humectants (Sodium lactate, Propanediol, Erythritol, Betaine and Sodium PCA) with a total concentration of 28 wt% in an o/w emulsion was able to reduce its aw from 0.980 ± 0.003 to 0.865 ± 0.005. The challenge test results of the aw-lowered emulsion showed a convincing microbial count reduction in potentially pathogenic microorganisms. The addition of as little as 0.5% of the antimicrobial multifunctionals Glyceryl Caprylate and Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract further enhanced the antimicrobial effect, resulting in adequate antimicrobial protection. Moreover, twice-daily application of the aw-lowered emulsion for a period of four weeks led to a skin barrier-enhancing effect: TEWL significantly decreased, and SC hydration significantly increased. Thus, we present an opportunity to replace conventional preservatives with a natural alternative preservation strategy that has been shown to offer benefits for the skin.

Isolation, Characterization, and Metabolic Profiling of Ceratorhiza hydrophila from the Aquatic Plant Myriophyllum spicatum

The goal of the present study was to investigate the antibacterial properties, enzyme production, and metabolic profiling of a new Ceratorhiza hydrophila strain isolated from the submerged aquatic plant Myriophyllum spicatum. Furthermore, the fungus' morphological characterization and DNA sequencing have been described. The fungus has been identified and submitted to the GenBank as Ceratorhiza hydrophila isolate EG19 and the fungus ID is MK387081. The enzyme analyses showed its ability to produce protease and cellulase enzymes. According to the CSLI standard, the ethyl acetate extract of C. hydrophila showed intermediate antibacterial activity against Streptococcus pneumonia, Micrococcus luteus, and Staphylococcus aureus. Metabolic profiling has been carried out using 700 MHz NMR spectroscopy. Based on the ¹H and ¹H-¹³C heteronuclear single quantum coherence (HSQC) NMR data and NMR databases, 23 compounds have been identified. The identified metabolites include 31% amino acids, 9% sugars, 9% amines, 4% sugar alcohols, and 4% alkaloids. This is the first report for the metabolic characterization of C. hydrophila, which gave preliminary information about the fungus. It is expected that our findings not only will pave the way to other perspectives in enormous applications using C. hydrophila as a new promising source of antimicrobial agents and essential metabolites, but also it will be valuable in the classification and chemotaxonomy of the species.

Beneficial Effects of Betaine: A Comprehensive Review

Medicinal herbs and many food ingredients possess favorable biological properties that contribute to their therapeutic activities. One such natural product is betaine, a stable, nontoxic natural substance that is present in animals, plants, and microorganisms. Betaine is also endogenously synthesized through the metabolism of choline or exogenously consumed through dietary intake. Betaine mainly functions as (i) an osmolyte and (ii) a methyl-group donor. This review describes the major physiological effects of betaine in whole-body health and its ability to protect against both liver- as well as non-liver-related diseases and conditions. Betaine's role in preventing/attenuating both alcohol-induced and metabolic-associated liver diseases has been well studied and is extensively reviewed here. Several studies show that betaine protects against the development of alcohol-induced hepatic steatosis, apoptosis, and accumulation of damaged proteins. Additionally, it can significantly prevent/attenuate progressive liver injury by preserving gut integrity and adipose function. The protective effects are primarily associated with the regulation of methionine metabolism through removing homocysteine and maintaining cellular SAM:SAH ratios. Similarly, betaine prevents metabolic-associated fatty liver disease and its progression. In addition, betaine has a neuroprotective role, preserves myocardial function, and prevents pancreatic steatosis. Betaine also attenuates oxidant stress, endoplasmic reticulum stress, inflammation, and cancer development. To conclude, betaine exerts significant therapeutic and biological effects that are potentially beneficial for alleviating a diverse number of human diseases and conditions.

Synthetic and Bio-Derived Surfactants Versus Microbial Biosurfactants in the Cosmetic Industry: An Overview

This article includes an updated review of the classification, uses and side effects of surfactants for their application in the cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries. Based on their origin and composition, surfactants can be divided into three different categories: (i) synthetic surfactants; (ii) bio-based surfactants; and (iii) microbial biosurfactants. The first group is the most widespread and cost-effective. It is composed of surfactants, which are synthetically produced, using non-renewable sources, with a final structure that is different from the natural components of living cells. The second category comprises surfactants of intermediate biocompatibility, usually produced by chemical synthesis but integrating fats, sugars or amino acids obtained from renewable sources into their structure. Finally, the third group of surfactants, designated as microbial biosurfactants, are considered the most biocompatible and eco-friendly, as they are produced by living cells, mostly bacteria and yeasts, without the intermediation of organic synthesis. Based on the information included in this review it would be interesting for cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries to consider microbial biosurfactants as a group apart from surfactants, needing specific regulations, as they are less toxic and more biocompatible than chemical surfactants having formulations that are more biocompatible and greener.

The science behind wet wipes for infant skin: Ingredient review, safety, and efficacy

In the diapered area, the continuous exposure to excess moisture and irritants from urine and feces weakens the stratum corneum, making the skin more susceptible to irritation. The use of wet wipes for infants (baby wipes) is a common practice to clean skin after urine or a bowel movement, and this practice even extends to cleaning the hands and face, resulting in repeated daily use. Therefore, ensuring that baby wipes contain ingredients that are safe and mild on skin is important to help minimize skin irritation and discomfort. While disposable baby wipes have been shown to be effective and gentle at cleaning infant skin, even the skin of premature infants, there is growing public concern regarding their safety and tolerability. Not all products are made the same, as differences exist in manufacturing processes, ingredients, materials, safety, and quality testing. Therefore, it is important that healthcare professionals have accessible evidenced-based information on the safety and tolerability of common ingredients found in baby wipes to optimally educate their patients and families. Herein, we provide a review on best practices for ingredient selection, safety, and efficacy of baby wipes.

Antifungal Mechanism of Action of Lauryl Betaine Against Skin-Associated Fungus Malassezia restricta

Betaine derivatives are considered major ingredients of shampoos and are commonly used as antistatic and viscosity-increasing agents. Several studies have also suggested that betaine derivatives can be used as antimicrobial agents. However, the antifungal activity and mechanism of action of betaine derivatives have not yet been fully understood. In this study, we investigated the antifungal activity of six betaine derivatives against Malassezia restricta, which is the most frequently isolated fungus from the human skin and is implicated in the development of dandruff. We found that, among the six betaine derivatives, lauryl betaine showed the most potent antifungal activity. The mechanism of action of lauryl betaine was studied mainly using another phylogenetically close model fungal organism, Cryptococcus neoformans, because of a lack of available genetic manipulation and functional genomics tools for M. restricta. Our genome-wide reverse genetic screening method using the C. neoformans gene deletion mutant library showed that the mutants with mutations in genes for cell membrane synthesis and integrity, particularly ergosterol synthesis, are highly sensitive to lauryl betaine. Furthermore, transcriptome changes in both C. neoformans and M. restricta cells grown in the presence of lauryl betaine were analyzed and the results indicated that the compound mainly affected cell membrane synthesis, particularly ergosterol synthesis. Overall, our data demonstrated that lauryl betaine influences ergosterol synthesis in C. neoformans and that the compound exerts a similar mechanism of action on M. restricta.