Examining Safety of Biocolourants from Fungal and Plant Sources-Examples from Cortinarius and Tapinella, Salix and Tanacetum spp. and Dyed Woollen Fabrics

Medicinal Plants of the Flora of Kazakhstan Used in the Treatment of Skin Diseases

The skin shows the physiological condition of the body's organs and systems that prevent infections and physical damage. Throughout the ages, in folk medicine, phytotherapy was considered a primary form of treatment in all countries, including Kazakhstan, due to the abundance and availability of plant-based remedies. This paper discusses several medicinal plants that are traditionally used in the treatment of skin diseases in the Republic of Kazakhstan. The chemical composition of these plants was analyzed, with a particular focus on the biologically active basic compounds responsible for their therapeutic efficiency in treating skin ailments.

In Situ Adsorption of Red Onion (Allium cepa) Natural Dye on Cellulose Model Films and Fabrics Exploiting Chitosan as a Natural Mordant

Synthetic dyes and chemicals create an enormous impact on environmental pollution both in textile manufacturing and after the product's lifetime. Biobased plant-derived colorants and mordants have great potential for the development of more sustainable textile dyeing processes. Colorants isolated from biomass residues are renewable, biodegradable, and usually less harmful than their synthetic counterparts. Interestingly, they may also bring additional functions to the materials. However, the extraction and purification of the biocolorants from biomass as well as their dyeing efficiency and color fastness properties require a more thorough examination. Here, we extracted red onion (Allium cepa) skins to obtain polyphenolic flavonoids and anthocyanins as biocolorants, characterized the chemical composition of the mixture, and used a quartz crystal microbalance and thin films of cellulose nanofibrils to study the adsorption kinetics of dyes onto cellulose substrates in situ. The effect of different mordants on the adsorption behavior was also investigated. Comparison of these results with conventional dyeing experiments of textiles enabled us to determine the interaction mechanism of the dyes with substrates and mordants. Chitosan showed high potential as a biobased mordant based both on its ability to facilitate fast adsorption of polyphenols to cellulose and its ability to retain the purple color of the red onion dye (ROD) in comparison to the metal mordants FeSO₄ and alum. The ROD also showed excellent UV-shielding efficiency at low concentrations, suggesting that biocolorants, due to their more complex composition compared to synthetic ones, can have multiple actions in addition to providing aesthetics.

In Vitro Study of Biological Activity of Tanacetum vulgare Extracts

Tanacetum vulgare is an herbaceous plant widely used in folk medicine. It is rich in phenolic acids and flavonoids, which have pharmacological and medicinal properties, such as anthelmintic, antispasmodic, tonic, antidiabetic, diuretic, and antihypertensive. This study aimed to confirm the presence of biologically active substances in Tanacetum vulgare and to determine the pharmacological spectrum of biological activity of Tanacetum vulgare extract components. When preparing Tanacetum vulgare extracts, the highest yield was observed when using the maceration method with a mixture of solvents methanol + trifluoroacetic acid (22.65 ± 0.68%). The biologically active substances in Tanacetum vulgare extract samples were determined using high-performance liquid chromatography. Biologically active substances such as luteolin-7-glucoside (550.80 mg/kg), chlorogenic acid (5945.40 mg/kg), and rosmarinic acid (661.31 mg/kg) were identified. Their structures were determined. The experiments have confirmed the antioxidant and antibacterial activities. Secondary metabolites of Tanacetum vulgare extracts have been found to have previously unknown biological activity types; experimental confirmation of their existence will advance phytochemical research and lead to the development of new drugs.

Critical Review on Sustainability in Denim: A Step toward Sustainable Production and Consumption of Denim

The exponential development in knowledge on the health and environmental concerns linked to conventional denim processing is directly responsible for the continuous increase in demand for the exploitation of sustainable denim. Research is essential to explore alternative methods to reduce the environmental impact caused by these industries. This review examines the many sustainable ways to produce denim, keeping in mind the problems that the denim industry is now facing in finding alternatives to conventional manufacturing practices. The most current advancements in environmentally friendly dyeing techniques for denim have been extensively discussed. These processes include the production of indigo from bacteria as well as different dyeing processes, such as digital spray, microbially assisted dyeing, and foam dyeing denim with indigo. In addition, this review covers the many environmentally friendly finishing methods for denim garments, such as ozone fading, e-flow, enzyme-based bleaching, water, laser fading, and so on. Finally, it is described how the chemical and mechanical processes used to finish denim might affect the amount of microplastics and microfibers released from the denim garment during domestic washing. As a result, the content presented in this review aims to address the importance of sustainable denim processing, that is, something that can be rethought, reevaluated, renewed, and restructured within the scope of conventional denim processes, while taking eco-responsible solutions for increased environmental sustainability into account.

Pilot-Scale Production of the Natural Colorant Laetiporic Acid, Its Stability and Potential Applications

Laetiporus sulphureus, a wood-decaying basidiomycete, produces yellow-orange pigments in fruiting bodies and, as was recently shown, in submerged cultivated mycelia. Out of four strains, the most potent laetiporic acid producer was identified and its yield compared in different media. The complex Moser b medium was replaced by potato dextrose broth, achieving higher yields at a lower cost. Cultivation was then scaled up from shake flask to a 7 L stirred tank bioreactor. Optimization of parameters led to increased product concentrations up to 1 g L−1, the highest yield reported so far. An in situ product recovery strategy with a biphasic system was established, increasing the yield by 19% on the shake flask scale. A crude ethanolic extract of the biomass was examined for color stability and application trials. In contrast to what has been suggested in the past, the pigment showed limited long-term stability to oxygen and light, but was stable under storage in the dark at 4 °C under nitrogen. The orange extract was successfully incorporated into different matrices like foods, cosmetics and textiles. Laetiporic acid can potentially replace petrochemical based synthetic dyes, and can thus support the development of a circular bioeconomy.

Commercial Red Food Dyes Preparations Modulate the Oxidative State in Three Model Organisms (Cucumis sativus, Artemia salina, and Danio rerio)

The growing environmental spreading of food synthetic dyes and bio-colors have the potential for altering organisms’ redox states. Here, three model species for aquatic pollution trials, Cucumis sativus seeds, Artemia salina cysts, and Danio rerio embryos, were short-term exposed to a fixed concentration of the artificial red E124, and two red bio-colors, cochineal E120, and vegan red (VEGR). In the animal models, we evaluated the total reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the susceptibility to in vitro oxidative stress, and in C. sativus, H2O2 production and antioxidant capacity. We also measured organismal performance indices (routine oxygen consumption in the animal models, dark oxygen consumption, and photosynthetic efficiency in C. sativus). In C. sativus, only E124 increased ROS and affected dark oxygen consumption and photosynthetic efficiency, while all dyes enhanced the antioxidant defenses. In the A. salina nauplii, all dyes increased ROS, while E120 and E124 reduced the susceptibility to oxidative stress. In D. rerio, treatments did not affect ROS content, and reduced oxidative stress susceptibility. Our data show that red food dyes affect the redox state of the developing organisms, in which ROS plays a significant role. We suggest a potentially toxic role for red food dyes with environmentally relevant consequences.

Optimized isolation of 7,7'-biphyscion starting from Cortinarius rubrophyllus, a chemically unexplored fungal species rich in photosensitizers

Mushrooms such as the dermocyboid Cortinarius rubrophyllus are characterized by strikingly colorful fruiting bodies. The molecular dyes responsible for such colors recently experienced a comeback as photoactive compounds with remarkable photophysical and photobiological properties. One of them-7,7'-biphyscion-is a dimeric anthraquinone that showed promising anticancer effects in the low nanomolar range under blue-light irradiation. Compared to acidic anthraquinones, 7,7'-biphyscion was more efficiently taken up by cells and induced apoptosis after photoactivation. However, seasonal collection of mushrooms producing this compound, low extraction yields, and tricky fungal identification hamper further developments to the clinics. To bypass these limitations, we demonstrate here an alternative approach utilizing a precursor of 7,7'-biphyscion, i.e., the pre-anthraquinone flavomannin-6,6'-dimethyl ether, which is abundant in many species of the subgenus Dermocybe. Controlled oxidation of the crude extract significantly increased the yield of 7,7'-biphyscion by 100%, which eased the isolation process. We also present the mycochemical and photobiological characterization of the yet chemically undescribed species, i.e. C. rubrophyllus. In total, eight pigments (1-8) were isolated, including two new glycosylated anthraquinones (1 and 2). Light-dependent generation of singlet oxygen was detected for the first time for emodin-1-O-β-D-glucopyranoside (3) [photophysical measurement: Φ∆ = 0.11 (CD3OD)]. Furthermore, emodin (7) was characterized as promising compound in the photocytotoxicity assay with EC50-values in the low micromolar range under irradiation against cells of the cancer cell lines AGS, A549, and T24.

Essential Oils and Supercritical CO2 Extracts of Arctic Angelica (Angelica archangelica L.), Marsh Labrador Tea (Rhododendron tomentosum) and Common Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)-Chemical Compositions and Antimicrobial Activities

Traditionally, arctic Finnish Angelica (Angelica archangelica L.), marsh Labrador tea (Rhododendron tomentosum, syn. Ledum palustre) and common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) have been used as medicinal herbs in folklore medicine. However, these underutilised plants are a source of, e.g., oil-based compounds, which could benefit many modern applications implemented by the green chemistry extraction methods, as well. We extracted Angelica, marsh Labrador tea and common tansy by non-toxic and recyclable extraction methods, i.e., hydrodistillation and supercritical carbon dioxide (scCO₂) extraction; characterised the essential oils (EOs) and scCO₂ extracts by combination of gas chromatography and mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and in addition, analysed the antimicrobial properties. As expected for Angelica root and common tansy inflorescence, the scCO₂ extraction method produced less amount of volatile compounds compared to hydrodistillation. On the other hand, more coumarins, alkanes, fatty alcohols and fatty acids were obtained. Additionally, sesquiterpenoids palustrol and ledol were predominant compounds in both marsh Labrador tea EO and scCO₂ extract. According to our results, however, all the EOs and scCO₂ extracts showed broad spectrum of antimicrobial activities against the selected microbes, but the effects were extract-specific. The strongest and broadest antimicrobial activities were performed by marsh Labrador tea scCO₂ extract, which showed extremely strong effect on Staphylococcusaureus subsp. aureus and strong effect on Candida albicans.