Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

Photoprotective efficacy of Sunset Yellow via inhibition of type-I and type-II pathway under exposure of sunlight

Exposure to phototoxicants and photosensitizers can result in the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to oxidative stress, DNA damage, and various skin-related issues such as aging, allergies, and cancer. While several photo-protectants offer defense against ultraviolet radiation (UV-R), their effectiveness is often limited by photo-instability. Sunset Yellow (SY), an FDA-approved food dye, possesses significant UV-R and visible light absorption properties. However, its photoprotective potential has remained unexplored. Our investigation reveals that SY exhibits remarkable photostability for up to 8 h under both UV-R and sunlight. Notably, SY demonstrates the ability to quench ROS, including singlet oxygen (1O2), superoxide radicals (O 2 · - $$ {\mathrm{O}}_2^{\cdotp -} $$ ), and hydroxyl radicals (·OH) induced by rose bengal, riboflavin and levofloxacin, respectively. Moreover, SY proves effective in protecting against the apoptotic and necrotic cell death induced by the phototoxicant chlorpromazine (CPZ) in HaCaT cells. Further, it was observed that SY imparts photoprotection by inhibiting intracellular ROS generation and calcium release. Genotoxicity evaluation provides additional evidence supporting SY's photoprotective effects against CPZ-induced DNA damage. In conclusion, these findings underscore the potential of SY as a promising photoprotective agent against the toxic hazards induced by phototoxicants, suggesting its prospective application in the formulation of broad-spectrum sunscreens.

Exposure to UV-B filter octylmethoxycinnamate and human health effects: Focus on endocrine disruptor actions

Human skin is the first line of photoprotection against UV radiation. However, despite having its defence mechanisms, the photoprotection that the skin exerts is not enough. To protect human skin, the inclusion of UV filters in the cosmetic industry has grown significantly as a photoprotection strategy. Octylmethoxycinnamate, also designated by octinoxate, or 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (CAS number: 5466-77-3) is one of the most widely used UV-B filter in the cosmetic industry. The toxic effects of OMC have alarmed the public, but there is still no consensus in the scientific community about its use. This article aims to provide an overview of the UV filters' photoprotection, emphasizing the OMC and the possible negative effects it may have on the public health. Moreover, the current legislation will be addressed. In summary, the recommendations should be rethought to assess their risk-benefit, since the existing literature warns us to endocrine-disrupting effects of OMC. Further studies should be focus on the toxicity of OMC alone, in mixture and should consider its degradation products, to improve the knowledge of its risk assessment as EDC.

Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy

Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins: An Updated Review of Their Natural Sources, Synthesis, and Potentials

Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins (OPCs), as a class of compounds widely found in plants, are particularly abundant in grapes and blueberries. It is a polymer comprising many different monomers, such as catechins and epicatechins. The monomers are usually linked to each other by two types of links, A-linkages (C-O-C) and B-linkages (C-C), to form the polymers. Numerous studies have shown that compared to high polymeric procyanidins, OPCs exhibit antioxidant properties due to the presence of multiple hydroxyl groups. This review describes the molecular structure and natural source of OPCs, their general synthesis pathway in plants, their antioxidant capacity, and potential applications, especially the anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, cardiovascular disease prevention, and antineoplastic functions. Currently, OPCs have attracted much attention, being non-toxic and natural antioxidants of plant origin that scavenge free radicals from the human body. This review would provide some references for further research on the biological functions of OPCs and their application in various fields.

Phytochemicals Derived from Agricultural Residues and Their Valuable Properties and Applications

Billions of tons of agro-industrial residues are produced worldwide. This is associated with the risk of pollution as well as management and economic problems. Simultaneously, non-edible portions of many crops are rich in bioactive compounds with valuable properties. For this reason, developing various methods for utilizing agro-industrial residues as a source of high-value by-products is very important. The main objective of the paper is a review of the newest studies on biologically active compounds included in non-edible parts of crops with the highest amount of waste generated annually in the world. The review also provides the newest data on the chemical and biological properties, as well as the potential application of phytochemicals from such waste. The review shows that, in 2020, there were above 6 billion tonnes of residues only from the most popular crops. The greatest amount is generated during sugar, oil, and flour production. All described residues contain valuable phytochemicals that exhibit antioxidant, antimicrobial and very often anti-cancer activity. Many studies show interesting applications, mainly in pharmaceuticals and food production, but also in agriculture and wastewater remediation, as well as metal and steel industries.

Phytocompounds Recovered from the Waste of Cabernet Sauvignon (Vitis vinifera L.) Vinification: Cytotoxicity (in Normal and Stressful Conditions) and In Vitro Photoprotection Efficacy in a Sunscreen System

We investigated plausible reuse for the dermocosmetic industry of byproducts from the winemaking process of red grapes (Vitis vinifera L. cv. C. Sauvignon) through the evaluation of one extract (grape pomace extract, GPE) and two fractions (one chloroform, GPE-CHF; one ethyl acetate, GPE-EAF). The samples were characterized analytically by liquid chromatography (HPLC) using a NIH 3T3 fibroblast cell culture to verify a cytosafety profile in normal and stressful environment (presence of H2O2), and by using it in a sunscreen system to observe improvements in the in vitro efficacy by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry with an integrating sphere. The HPLC results for GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF samples with the best profile of syringic and p-coumaric acids, quercetin, and trans-resveratrol were used in the further assays. GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF, both at 30.00 µg/mL, maintained the cell viability in the absence of H2O2 (normal condition). In the sequence, GPE-EAF and GPE-CHF were evaluated against the oxidative stressor H2O2 in NIH 3T3 cells. A sharp drop in viability was only observed for GPE-CHF, and cytotoxicity of GPE-EAF was considered absent even in a hostile environment. Since GPE-EAF previously developed the best results, its potential performance was investigated in a sunscreen system. The in vitro sun protection factor of the phytoderivative-free formulation was 9.0 + 2.5; by adding GPE-EAF at 10.0%, its efficacy was elevated to 15.0 + 2.5. Both samples suffered a negative effect after artificial ultraviolet exposition (500 W/m2); however, the presence of GPE-EAF improved the photostability of the sunscreen system.

Green Extraction of Polyphenols from Waste Bentonite to Produce Functional Antioxidant Excipients for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Purposes: A Waste-to-Market Approach

In an ever-growing perspective of circular economy, the development of conscious, sustainable and environmental-friendly strategies to recycle the waste products is the key point. The scope of this work was to validate the waste bentonite from the grape processing industries as a precious matrix to extract polyphenols by applying a waste-to-market approach aimed at producing novel functional excipients. The waste bentonite was recovered after the fining process and opportunely pre-treated. Subsequently, both the freeze dried and the so-called "wet" bentonites were subjected to maceration. PEG200 and Propylene Glycol were selected as solvents due to their ability to dissolve polyphenols and their wide use in the cosmetic/pharmaceutical field. The extracts were evaluated in terms of yield, density, pH after water-dilution, total phenolic (Folin-Ciocalteu) and protein (Bradford) contents, antioxidant power (DPPH), amount of some representative polyphenols (HPLC-DAD), cytocompatibility and stability. Both solvents validated the bentonite as a valuable source of polyphenols and led to colored fluids characterized by an acidic pH after water-dilution. The best extract was obtained from the wet bentonite with PEG200 and highlighted the highest phenolic content and consequently the strongest antioxidant activity. Additionally, it displayed proliferative properties and resulted almost stable over time. Hence, it might be directly used as polyphenols-enriched functional novel raw material for cosmetic and pharmaceutics purposes.

Flower Extracts from Ornamental Plants as Sources of Sunscreen Ingredients: Determination by In Vitro Methods of Photoprotective Efficacy, Antigenotoxicity and Safety

Plants are sources of sunscreen ingredients that prevent cellular mutations involved in skin cancer and aging. This study investigated the sunscreen properties of the extracts from some ornamental plants growing in Colombia. The UV filter capability of the flower extracts obtained from Rosa centifolia L., Posoqueria latifolia (Rudge) Schult, and Ipomoea horsfalliae Hook. was examined. Photoprotection efficacies were evaluated using in vitro indices such as sun protection factor and critical wavelength. UVB antigenotoxicity estimates measured with the SOS Chromotest were also obtained. Extract cytotoxicity and genotoxicity were studied in human fibroblasts using the trypan blue exclusion and Comet assays, respectively. Major compounds of the promising flower extracts were identified by UHPLC-ESI+-Orbitrap-MS. The studied extracts showed high photoprotection efficacy and antigenotoxicity against UVB radiation, but only the P. latifolia extract showed broad-spectrum photoprotection at non-cytotoxic concentrations. The P. latifolia extract appeared to be safer for human fibroblast cells and the R. centifolia extract was shown to be moderately cytotoxic and genotoxic at the highest assayed concentrations. The I. horsfalliae extract was unequivocally cytotoxic and genotoxic. The major constituents of the promising extracts were as follows: chlorogenic acid, ecdysterone 20E, rhamnetin-rutinoside, cis-resveratrol-diglucoside, trans-resveratrol-diglucoside in P. latifolia; quercetin, quercetin-glucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoside, kaempferol, kaempferol-3-glucoside, and kaempferol-rhamnoside in R. centifolia. The potential of the ornamental plants as sources of sunscreen ingredients was discussed.

Application of Response Surface Methodologies to Optimize High-Added Value Products Developments: Cosmetic Formulations as an Example

In recent years, green and advanced extraction technologies have gained great interest to revalue several food by-products. This by-product revaluation is currently allowing the development of high value-added products, such as functional foods, nutraceuticals, or cosmeceuticals. Among the high valued-added products, cosmeceuticals are innovative cosmetic formulations which have incorporated bioactive natural ingredients providing multiple benefits on skin health. In this context, the extraction techniques are an important step during the elaboration of cosmetic ingredients since they represent the beginning of the formulation process and have a great influence on the quality of the final product. Indeed, these technologies are claimed as efficient methods to retrieve bioactive compounds from natural sources in terms of resource utilization, environmental impact, and costs. This review offers a summary of the most-used green and advanced methodologies to obtain cosmetic ingredients with the maximum performance of these extraction techniques. Response surface methodologies may be applied to enhance the optimization processes, providing a simple way to understand the extraction process as well as to reach the optimum conditions to increase the extraction efficiency. The combination of both assumes an economic improvement to attain high value products that may be applied to develop functional ingredients for cosmetics purposes.

Grapevine Wastes: A Rich Source of Antioxidants and Other Biologically Active Compounds

Wine production is one of the most critical agro-industrial sectors worldwide, generating large amounts of waste with negative environmental impacts, but also with high economic value and several potential applications. From wine shoots to grape pomace or seeds, all of the wastes are rich sources of bioactive compounds with beneficial effects for human health, with these compounds being raw materials for other industries such as the pharmaceutical, cosmetic or food industries. Furthermore, these compounds present health benefits such as being antioxidants, supporting the immune system, anti-tumoral, or preventing cardiovascular and neural diseases. The present work aims to be a critical discussion of the extraction methods used for bioactive compounds from grapevine waste and their beneficial effects on human health.

Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy

OBJECTIVE

The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems.

METHODS

Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME.

RESULTS

As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME, nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe.

CONCLUSION

Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Valorization of Wine-Making By-Products’ Extracts in Cosmetics

The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, antiaging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives contained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative start-ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for recovery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts, both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products.

Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract

The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.

Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes

Food waste is a global problem due to its environmental and economic impact, so there is great demand for the exploitation of new functional applications. The winemaking process leads to an incomplete extraction of high-value compounds, leaving the pomace still rich in polyphenols. This study was aimed at optimising and validating sustainable routes toward the extraction and further valorisation of these polyphenols, particularly for cosmeceutical applications. New formulations based on red grape pomace polyphenols and natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) were here investigated, namely betaine combined with citric acid (BET-CA), urea (BET-U) and ethylene glycol (BET-EG), in which DESs were used both as extracting and carrying agents for polyphenols. The flavonoid profile determined by HPLC-MS/MS analysis showed similar malvidin content (51-56 μg mL^-1) in the DES combinations, while BET-CA gave the best permeation performance in Franz cells, so it was further investigated in 3D human keratinocytes (HaCat spheroids) injured with the pro-oxidant agent menadione. BET-CA treatment showed good intracellular antioxidant activity (IC50 0.15 ± 0.02 μg mL^-1 in malvidin content) and significantly decreased (p < 0.001) the release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, improving cell viability. Thus, BET-CA formulation is worthy of investigation for potential use as a cosmetic ingredient to reduce oxidative stress and inflammation, which are causes of skin aging.