Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

Longevity effect of a polysaccharide from Chlorophytum borivilianum on Caenorhabditis elegans and Saccharomyces cerevisiae

The traditional Indian medicine, Ayurveda, provides insights and practical solutions towards a healthy life style. Rasayana is a branch of Ayurveda known for preserving and promoting health, enhancing the quality of life and delaying the aging process. In the traditional knowledge, the Rasayana herb, Chlorophytum borivilianum (C. borivilanum) is regarded as a general health promoting tonic that delays aging and increases lifespan, cognitive function and physical strength. Aging is a complex and multifactorial physiological phenomenon that manifests itself over a wide range of biological systems, tissues, and functions. Longevity is an obvious marker of physiological aging. Simple model systems such as the single-cell budding yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae (S. cerevisiae) and the nematode, Caenorhabditis elegans (C. elegans) are widely used to study the aging process and longevity. Here, we show that a polysaccharide fraction obtained from C. borivilianum increases the lifespan of S. cerevisiae and C. elegans, using an automated screening platform (Chronoscreen^TM). Chemical analysis of this extract revealed a low molecular weight polysaccharide of 1000 Da, predominantly comprising Glu1→6Glu linkage. This polysaccharide showed significant dose-dependent extension of the median lifespan of S. cerevisiae by up to 41% and of the median lifespan of C. elegans by up to 10%. Taking cue from these results and the traditionally described benefits of Rasayanas on skin rejuvenation, we tested in vitro the polysaccharide for potential skin benefits. In a keratinocyte culture, we observed that this polysaccharide increased cell proliferation significantly, and induced synthesis of hyaluronic acid (HA), a well-known extracellular matrix component. Furthermore, when added to culture medium of human reconstructed epidermis, we observed an enhanced production of epidermal markers, e.g. CD44 and HA that are otherwise diminished in aged skin. Together, these results suggest that in addition to life-span extension of S. cerevisiae and C. elegans, a polysaccharide from the Rasayana herb, C. borivilianum may have beneficial effects on skin aging parameters.

Studies on secondary metabolite profiling, anti-inflammatory potential, in vitro photoprotective and skin-aging related enzyme inhibitory activities of Malaxis acuminata, a threatened orchid of nutraceutical importance

Malaxis acuminata D. Don., a small, terrestrial orchid, is endemic to tropical Himalayas at an altitude of 1200-2000m asl. The dried pseudobulbs are important ingredients of century old ayurvedic drug 'Ashtavarga' and a polyherbal immune-booster nutraceutical 'Chyavanprash', known to restore vigour, vitality and youthfulness. Considering tremendous medicinal importance of this threatened orchid species, a detailed study was undertaken for the first time to address its antioxidant potential, secondary metabolite contents and biological activities against skin-aging related enzymes (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase and xanthine oxidase) and anti-inflammatory activity (5-lipoxygenase and hyaluronidase) in different plant parts of wild and in vitro-derived plants of M. acuminata. Methanolic leaf and stem extracts were further evaluated for in vitro photoprotective activity against UV-B and UV-A radiations. Furthermore, secondary metabolite profiling of various plant parts was carried out by Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS). A significantly higher antioxidant potential (DPPH, metal chelating and ABTS^•+) with a comparative higher yield of secondary metabolites was observed in in vitro-derived plantlets as compared to the wild plants. Among various solvent systems used, methanolic leaf and stem extracts showed promising inhibitory activity against major skin aging-related enzymes and anti-inflammatory potential. Methanolic leaf and stem extracts of both wild and in vitro-derived plants showed promising photoprotective activity against UV-B and UV-A radiations in vitro with comparatively higher sun protection factor (SPF). Furthermore, GC-MS analysis of methanolic extracts of leaves and stems of wild as well as in vitro-derived plantlets revealed presence of many bioactive metabolites such as, dietary fatty acids, α-hydroxy acids, phenolic acids, sterols, amino acids, sugars and glycosides which substantially explain the use of M. acuminata as one of the potential rejuvenator and anti-aging ingredient in many Ayurvedic formulations.

Molecular mechanisms of green tea polyphenols with protective effects against skin photoaging

Whereas green tea has historically been consumed in high quantities in Northeast Asia, its popularity is also increasing in many Western countries. Green tea is an abundant source of plant polyphenols exhibiting numerous effects that are potentially beneficial for human health. Accumulating evidence suggests that green tea polyphenols confer protective effects on the skin against ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced acceleration of skin aging, involving antimelanogenic, antiwrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects as well as prevention of immunosuppression. Melanin pigmentation in the skin is a major defense mechanism against UV irradiation, but pigmentation abnormalities such as melasma, freckles, senile lentigines, and other forms of melanin hyperpigmentation can also cause serious health and aesthetic issues. Furthermore, UV irradiation initiates the degradation of fibrillar collagen and elastic fibers, promoting the process of skin aging through deep wrinkle formation and loss of tissue elasticity. UV irradiation-induced formation of free radicals also contributes to accelerated photoaging. Additionally, immunosuppression caused by UV irradiation plays an important role in photoaging and skin carcinogenesis. In this review, we summarize the current literature regarding the antimelanogenic, antiwrinkle, antioxidant, and immunosuppression preventive mechanisms of green tea polyphenols that have been demonstrated to protect against UV irradiation-stimulated skin photoaging, and gauge the quality of evidence supporting the need for clinical studies using green tea polyphenols as anti-photoaging agents in novel cosmeceuticals.

An integrative metabolomics and transcriptomics study to identify metabolic alterations in aged skin of humans in vivo

Background

Aging human skin undergoes significant morphological and functional changes such as wrinkle formation, reduced wound healing capacity, and altered epidermal barrier function. Besides known age-related alterations like DNA-methylation changes, metabolic adaptations have been recently linked to impaired skin function in elder humans. Understanding of these metabolic adaptations in aged skin is of special interest to devise topical treatments that potentially reverse or alleviate age-dependent skin deterioration and the occurrence of skin disorders.

Results

We investigated the global metabolic adaptions in human skin during aging with a combined transcriptomic and metabolomic approach applied to epidermal tissue samples of young and old human volunteers. Our analysis confirmed known age-dependent metabolic alterations, e.g. reduction of coenzyme Q10 levels, and also revealed novel age effects that are seemingly important for skin maintenance. Integration of donor-matched transcriptome and metabolome data highlighted transcriptionally-driven alterations of metabolism during aging such as altered activity in upper glycolysis and glycerolipid biosynthesis or decreased protein and polyamine biosynthesis. Together, we identified several age-dependent metabolic alterations that might affect cellular signaling, epidermal barrier function, and skin structure and morphology.

Conclusions

Our study provides a global resource on the metabolic adaptations and its transcriptional regulation during aging of human skin. Thus, it represents a first step towards an understanding of the impact of metabolism on impaired skin function in aged humans and therefore will potentially lead to improved treatments of age related skin disorders.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (doi:10.1186/s12864-017-3547-3) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

[Epidermal aging and anti-aging strategies]

Epithelial senescence is a complex process depending on intrinsic as well as extrinsic factors (e.g., UV or IR light, tobacco smoke) and must be seen in the context of the aging process especially of the corium and the subcutis. Morphological alterations become apparent in the form of epithelial atrophy, structural changes within the basal membrane, and a decrease in cell count of melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Signs of cellular senescence are reduced proliferation of keratinocytes, cumulation of dysplastic keratinocytes, various mutations (e.g., c-Fos/c-Jun, STAT3, FoxO1), as well as multiple lipid or amino acid metabolic aberrations (e.g., production of advanced glycation endproducts). This causes functional changes within the physical (lipid deficiency, water distribution dysfunction, lack of hygroscopic substances), chemical (pH conditions, oxygen radicals), and immunological barrier. Prophylactically, barrier-protective care products, antioxidant substances (e.g., vitamin C, B3, E, polyphenols, flavonoids), sunscreen products/measurements, and retinoids are used. For correcting alterations in aged epidermis, chemical peelings (fruit acids, β-hydroxy acid, trichloroacetic acid, phenolic compounds), non-ablative (IPL, PDL, Nd:YAG) as well as ablative (CO2, Erbium-YAG) light-assisted methods are used.

Monascus-mediated fermentation improves the nutricosmetic potentials of soybeans

The potential nutricosmetic activities and compositional changes of 80% ethanol extracts of white soybean (MFWS) and black soybean (MFBS) fermented with Monascus pilosus KCCM 60084 at 30°C for 30 days were investigated. Monascus-fermented soybean extracts (MFSEs) showed stronger nutricosmetic potentials in terms of antioxidant as well as tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities compared to those of unfermented soybean extracts (p<0.05). Extracts (50mg/mL) from MFBS inhibited the α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 cells more potently than arbutin. HPLC/MS analysis demonstrated that aglycone isoflavones and coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) levels increased about 33.4- and 3.0-fold in the MFSEs after 20 days of fermentation, respectively. A linear correlation (r ²=0.67 to 0.99) between nutricosmetic activity and concentrations of CoQ10, genistein, and daidzein, which are commonly associated with nutraceutical effects, was observed. Results indicate that Monascus-mediated fermentation can be an efficient strategy to improve nutricosmetic functionality of soybeans.

Effect of Sophorolipid n-Alkyl Ester Chain Length on Its Interfacial Properties at the Almond Oil-Water Interface

Sophorolipids (SLs), produced by Candida bombicola, are of interest as potential replacements for hazardous commercial surfactants. For the first time, a series of molecularly edited SLs with ethyl (EE), n-hexyl (HE), and n-decyl (DE) esters were evaluated at an oil (almond oil)-water interface for their ability to reduce interfacial tension (IFT) and generate stable emulsions. An increase in the n-alkyl ester chain length from ethyl to hexyl resulted in a maximum % decrease in the IFT from 86.1 to 95.3, respectively. Furthermore, the critical aggregation concentrations (CACs) decreased from 0.035 to 0.011 and 0.006 mg/mL as the ester chain length was increased from ethyl to n-hexyl and n-decyl, respectively. In contrast, the CAC of natural SL, composed of 50/50 acidic and LSL, is 0.142 mg/mL. Dynamic IFT analysis showed significant differences in diffusion coefficients for all SLs studied. Almond oil emulsions with up to 200:1 (by weight) oil/SL-DE were stable against oil separation for up to 1 week with average droplet sizes below 5 μm. Emulsions of almond oil with natural SLs showed consistent oil separation 24 h after emulsification. A unique connection between IFT and emulsification was found as SL-DE has both the lowest CAC and the best emulsification performance of all natural and modified SLs studied herein. This connection between CAC and emulsification may be generally applicable, providing a tool for the prediction of optimal surfactants in other oil-water interfacial applications.

Biopolymeric agents for skin wrinkle treatment

Skin aging is caused by several factors capable of deteriorating dermal matrix and is visibly noticed in skin color and skin contour deformities. In addition to the prevention of skin aging by application of antioxidants and sunscreens, treatment of skin wrinkles with those of dermal fillers is also recommended. Dermal filler products with enhanced injectability and longer duration are being developed continuously. Biodegradable polymers such as skin elastic fibers and dermal matrix mimetic used for treatment of skin wrinkle are summarized in this article. Additionally, the importance of amino acids, enzymes, and proteins in aesthetic of skin is addressed. Thus, elective agents are proposed for the dermatologists, cosmetic formulators, and the individuals facing skin aging problems. The candidate natural peptides from marine sources are additionally presented for widening the choice of actives application for treating aging.

Influence of Topical, Systemic and Combined Application of Antioxidants on the Barrier Properties of the Human Skin

BACKGROUND

The formation of free radicals in human skin by solar ultraviolet radiation is considered to be the main reason for extrinsic skin aging. The antioxidants in human tissue represent an efficient protection system against the destructive action of these reactive free radicals. In this study, the parameters of the skin, epidermal thickness, stratum corneum moisture, elasticity and wrinkle volume, were determined before and after the treatment with antioxidant- or placebo-containing tablets and creams.

METHODS

The study included 5 groups of 15 volunteers each, who were treated for 2 months with antioxidant-containing or placebo tablets, creams or a combination of antioxidant-containing tablets and cream. The skin parameters were measured at time point 0 and at week 8 utilizing ultrasound for the determination of epidermal thickness, a corneometer for stratum corneum moisture measurements, skin profilometry for quantifying the wrinkle volume and a cutometer for determining the elasticity.

RESULTS

The verum cream had a positive influence on epidermal thickness, elasticity and skin moisture, but the verum tablets improved the epidermal thickness only. The combined application of verum tablets and creams led to a significant improvement of all investigated skin parameters, whereas the application of placebo tablets or cream did not influence any parameters.

CONCLUSION

The topical and oral supplementation of antioxidants can be an instrument to improve several skin parameters and potentially counteract or decelerate the process of extrinsic skin aging.

An update on cutaneous aging treatment using herbs

Skin aging is caused by several factors. Ultraviolet (UV) exposure as well as oxidative stress elevates inflammatory mediators causing degradation of the extracellular matrix, which is regarded as the major cause of skin wrinkles, one of the signs of aging. Topical applications of active ingredients protect against dermal photodamage and scavenge radicals that can delay skin aging. Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors against degradation of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronan are the key strategy to combat cutaneous aging. In addition, active ingredients with the efficacy to enhance extracellular matrix production, including those with UV protection efficacy, play an important role in protecting the skin from aging. Naturally derived compounds for combating skin wrinkles are gaining more interest among the consumers as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier. This article, therefore, briefly addresses the causes of skin aging and extensively summarizes on herbs appraisal for skin wrinkles treatment. Therefore, delaying aging of skin using the functional herbs would maintain the individual's appearance with high esthetic and psychosocial impacts.

Oxidative stress in aging human skin

Oxidative stress in skin plays a major role in the aging process. This is true for intrinsic aging and even more for extrinsic aging. Although the results are quite different in dermis and epidermis, extrinsic aging is driven to a large extent by oxidative stress caused by UV irradiation. In this review the overall effects of oxidative stress are discussed as well as the sources of ROS including the mitochondrial ETC, peroxisomal and ER localized proteins, the Fenton reaction, and such enzymes as cyclooxygenases, lipoxygenases, xanthine oxidases, and NADPH oxidases. Furthermore, the defense mechanisms against oxidative stress ranging from enzymes like superoxide dismutases, catalases, peroxiredoxins, and GSH peroxidases to organic compounds such as L-ascorbate, α-tocopherol, beta-carotene, uric acid, CoQ10, and glutathione are described in more detail. In addition the oxidative stress induced modifications caused to proteins, lipids and DNA are discussed. Finally age-related changes of the skin are also a topic of this review. They include a disruption of the epidermal calcium gradient in old skin with an accompanying change in the composition of the cornified envelope. This modified cornified envelope also leads to an altered anti-oxidative capacity and a reduced barrier function of the epidermis.

Stevia rebaudiana Bert. leaf extracts as a multifunctional source of natural antioxidants

The aim of the presented study was to characterize the content and biological activity of extracts prepared from dried Stevia rebaudiana leaves with potential application in the food or cosmetic industry. Aqueous (A), ethanolic (E) and glycol-aqueous (GA) extracts were analyzed for the content of polyphenols and proteins, showing that the highest amount of phenols (15.50 mg/g) and flavonoids (3.85 mg/g) contained GA. All extracts contained significant amount of protein (69.40–374.67 mg/g). Between analyzed stevia extracts (HPLC) GA contained the highest amount of polyphenols, especially ferulic (5.50 mg/g) and rozmaric (4.95 mg/g) acids derivates. The highest antiradical activity against DPPH^• and ABTS^•+ was noted for GA and E (IC₅₀ = 0.38 and 0.71 µg flavonoids/mL). The highest ability to chelate Fe²⁺ was observed for E (IC₅₀ = 2.08 µg flavonoids/mL). Stevia extracts were also analyzed for their cytotoxicity and fibroblast irritation potential in vitro. E and GA were the most cytotoxic and irritating, probably due to the high content of biologically active phytochemicals. On the other hand, a extract was the most tolerable by the cells. To summarize, the presented study evaluated the potential application of A, E and GA stevia extracts as natural source of antioxidants in the food and cosmetic industry.

[Characteristics of aging skin]

The change in the population's age structure in most industrial countries, as in Germany, requires geriatric medicine to play an increasingly important role. Dermatology also has to meet the new challenges by expert discussion and ethical considerations. The physiological aging process is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and causes a variety of morphological and functional alterations in the skin. Those alterations are the cause for an increasing prevalence of many dermatoses. Infections, wound healing disorders, inflammatory diseases, tumors and associated paraneoplastic syndromes are of particular importance. The structural and functional characteristics of aging skin in combination with the reduced mobility and declining cognitive abilities in elder patients require specific recommendations for skin protection as well as qualified advice about topical and systemic use of medications.

Antioxidant, antimicrobial and phytochemical variations in thirteen Moringa oleifera Lam. cultivars

A study was undertaken to assess variation in antioxidant, antimicrobial and phytochemical properties of thirteen Moringa oleifera cultivars obtained from different locations across the globe. Standard antioxidant methods including the DPPH scavenging, ferric reducing power (FRAP) and β-carotene-linoleic acid model were used to evaluate the activity. Variation in the antioxidant activity was observed, with TOT4951 from Thailand being the most active, with activity five times higher than that of ascorbic acid (reference compound). A different trend was observed for the activity in the FRAP and β-carotene-linoleic acid assays. Antimicrobial activity was tested against Gram-positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and Gram-negative (Klebsiella pneumoniae) strains using the microdilution method. Acetone extracts of all cultivars exhibited good antibacterial activity against K. pneumoniae (MIC values of 0.78 mg/mL). The remaining extracts exhibited weak activity against the two microorganisms. For the antifungal activity, all the extracts exhibited low activity. Variations were observed in the total phenolic and flavonoid contents. Cultivars TOT5169 (Thailand) and SH (South Africa) exhibited highest amounts of total phenolic compounds while TOT5028 (Thailand) exhibited the lowest amounts of five times lower than the highest. The information offer an understanding on variations between cultivars from different geographical locations and is important in the search for antioxidant supplementation and anti-ageing products.