Structural investigations of human stratum corneum by small-angle X-ray scattering

Probing Skin Barrier Recovery on Molecular Level Following Acute Wounds: An In Vivo/Ex Vivo Study on Pigs

Proper skin barrier function is paramount for our survival, and, suffering injury, there is an acute need to restore the lost barrier and prevent development of a chronic wound. We hypothesize that rapid wound closure is more important than immediate perfection of the barrier, whereas specific treatment may facilitate perfection. The aim of the current project was therefore to evaluate the quality of restored tissue down to the molecular level. We used Göttingen minipigs with a multi-technique approach correlating wound healing progression in vivo over three weeks, monitored by classical methods (e.g., histology, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), pH) and subsequent physicochemical characterization of barrier recovery (i.e., small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction (SWAXD), polarization transfer solid-state NMR (PTssNMR), dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR)), providing a unique insight into molecular aspects of healing. We conclude that although acute wounds sealed within two weeks as expected, molecular investigation of stratum corneum (SC) revealed a poorly developed keratin organization and deviations in lipid lamellae formation. A higher lipid fluidity was also observed in regenerated tissue. This may have been due to incomplete lipid conversion during barrier recovery as glycosphingolipids, normally not present in SC, were indicated by infrared FTIR spectroscopy. Evidently, a molecular approach to skin barrier recovery could be a valuable tool in future development of products targeting wound healing.

Acidic pH Is Required for the Multilamellar Assembly of Skin Barrier Lipids In Vitro

Lipid membrane remodeling belongs to the most fundamental processes in the body. The skin barrier lipids, which are ceramide dominant and highly rigid, must attain an unusual multilamellar nanostructure with long periodicity to restrict water loss and prevent the entry of potentially harmful environmental factors. Our data suggest that the skin acid mantle, apart from regulating enzyme activities and keeping away pathogens, may also be a prerequisite for the multilamellar assembly of the skin barrier lipids. Atomic force microscopy on monolayers composed of synthetic or human stratum corneum lipids showed multilayer formation (approximately 10-nm step height) in an acidic but not in a neutral environment. X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies showed markedly altered lipid nanostructure and increased water loss at neutral pH compared with that at acidic pH. These findings are consistent with the data on the altered organization of skin lipids and increased transepidermal water loss under conditions such as inadequate skin acidification, for example, in neonates, the elderly, and patients with atopic dermatitis.

Lipid Metabolic Events Underlying the Formation of the Corneocyte Lipid Envelope

Cornified cells of the stratum corneum have a monolayer of an unusual lipid covalently attached to the outer surface. This is referred to as the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE). It consists of a monolayer of ω-hydroxyceramides covalently attached to the outer surface of the cornified envelope. The CLE is essential for proper barrier function of the skin and is derived from linoleate-rich acylglucosylceramides synthesized in the viable epidermis. Biosynthesis of acylglucosylceramide and its conversion to the cornified envelope is complex. Acylglucosylceramide in the bounding membrane of the lamellar granule is the precursor of the CLE. The acylglucosylceramide in the limiting membrane of the lamellar granule may be oriented with the glucosyl moiety on the inside. Conversion of the acylglucosylceramide to the CLE requires removal of the glucose by action of a glucocerebrosidase. The ester-linked fatty acid may be removed by an as yet unidentified esterase, and the resulting ω-hydroxyceramide may become ester linked to the outer surface of the cornified envelope through action of transglutaminase 1. Prior to removal of ester-linked fatty acids, linoleate is oxidized to an epoxy alcohol through action of 2 lipoxygenases. This can be further oxidized to an epoxy-enone, which can spontaneously attach to the cornified envelope through Schiff's base formation. Mutations of genes coding for enzymes involved in biosynthesis of the CLE result in ichthyosis, often accompanied by neurologic dysfunction. The CLE is recognized as essential for barrier function of skin, but many questions about details of this essentiality remain. What are the relative roles of the 2 mechanisms of lipid attachment? What is the orientation of acylglucosylceramide in the bounding membrane of lamellar granules? Some evidence supports a role for CLE as a scaffold upon which intercellular lamellae unfold, but other evidence does not support this role. There is also controversial evidence for a role in stratum corneum cohesion. Evidence is presented to suggest that covalently bound ω-hydroxyceramides serve as a reservoir for free sphingosine that can serve in communicating with the viable epidermis and act as a potent broad-acting antimicrobial at the skin surface. Many questions remain.

Improved organotypic skin model with reduced quantity of monounsaturated ceramides by inhibiting stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1

Full thickness models (FTM) are 3D in vitro skin cultures that resemble the native human skin (NHS) to a great extent. However, the barrier function of these skin models is reduced. The skin barrier is located in the stratum corneum (SC) and consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. In this matrix, deviations in the composition of the FTMs lipid matrix may contribute to the impaired skin barrier when compared to NHS. One of the most abundant changes in lipid composition is an increase in monounsaturated lipids for which stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1) is responsible. To improve the SC lipid composition, we reduced SCD-1 activity during the generation of the FTMs. These FTMs were subsequently assessed on all major aspects, including epidermal homeostasis, lipid composition, lipid organization, and barrier functionality. We demonstrate that SCD-1 inhibition was successful and resulted in FTMs that better mimic the lipid composition of FTMs to NHS by a significant reduction in monounsaturated lipids. In conclusion, this study demonstrates an effective approach to normalize SC monounsaturated lipid concentration and may be a valuable tool in further optimizing the FTMs in future studies.

Development of novel polyglycerol fatty acid ester-based nanoparticles for the dermal delivery of tocopherol acetate

The aim of this study was to develop and evaluate novel polyglycerol fatty acid ester (PGFE)-based nanoparticles (NPs) for the dermal delivery of tocopherol acetate (TA). TA-loaded PGFE-based NPs (PGFE-NPs) were prepared by mixing PGFE, soya phosphatidylcholine, dimyristoylphosphatidylglycerol, and TA with film using the film rehydration and extrusion method. The prepared formulations were analyzed by dynamic light scattering, small-angle X-ray diffraction and polarization microscopy. An in vitro skin accumulation test was performed with TA under occlusive and non-occlusive applications, using Yucatan micropig skin. The size range of the TA-loaded liposome and PGFE-NPs was 107-128 nm, and they were encapsulated in 1.6-2.3 mg/mL TA. All PGFE-NP formulations were negatively charged and stable for 2 weeks. Under occlusive applications, all formulations induced small amounts of TA accumulation in the epidermis but not in the dermis. However, under non-occlusive applications, some of PGFE-NP formulations enhanced TA accumulation in the epidermis. Furthermore, only the polyglycerol 4-laurate (PG4L)-based formulation induced dermal TA accumulation with the change in the formulation from a vesicular to bilayer stacked structure following water evaporation under non-occlusive applications. These results indicated that the novel TA-loaded PG4L formulation enabled the dermal delivery of TA in non-occlusive applications.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.

Very Long Chain Lipids Favor the Formation of a Homogeneous Phase in Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, acts as a barrier dictating the rate of absorption of exogenous molecules through the skin, as well as to prevent excessive water loss from the body. The SC consists of protein-rich corneocytes embedded into a complex lipid mixture. The lipid fraction is mainly constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), forming a solid phase in the intracellular space; this lipid phase is supposed to play a fundamental role in the SC barrier function. An unusual characteristic of this biological membrane is that its lipids generally bear very long acyl chains, with the 24-carbon long ones being the most abundant. In this work, we used Raman microspectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy to study the influence of the acyl chain length on the lipid mixing properties in SC model membranes. Our results revealed that the combination of ceramides and FFA bearing a very long chain is required for the formation of homogeneous lipid mixtures, while lipids with shorter chains (16-carbon and 20-carbon atom long) lead to domains with micrometer dimensions. It is proposed that the biological machinery necessary for acyl chain elongation occurring at the mammalian skin level is required to inhibit lipid phase separation, a critical feature in the proper barrier functioning.

Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

OBJECTIVE

Polyols are moisturizers used in cosmetics. Using X-ray diffraction, we studied the moisturizingmechanism of polyol solutions in the stratum corneum (SC). We examined whether glycerol disrupts the ordered hydrocarbon chain packing structure in isolated SC, as previously proposed in an SC lipid model.

METHODS

The SC samples were prepared by treatment with water and aqueous solutions of glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol. To examine the differences in the water-retention efficiency of polyols, using a solution cell, we performed dynamic X-ray diffraction to analyse the structural changes that occurred during water removal from the hydrated samples by a stream of dry nitrogen gas. We focused on two structures, the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure in the intercellular lipids and the soft keratin in the corneocytes where most of the water is stored.

RESULTS

The spacing formed by the soft keratin in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of water and diglycerol solution decreased rapidly by water removal. In contrast, it decreased gradually in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of glycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, indicating that the glycerol-containing solutions maintained the hydrated state of the corneocytes for longer. Furthermore, the characteristic change of the spacing in the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure over time was observed during the drying process. The hydrated state was maintained longer, in water, followed by glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, in increasing order. This is the first study to report such characteristic properties that could be indicators of the capacity of the SC to regulate water.

CONCLUSION

The dynamic X-ray diffraction experiment on the structure of the soft keratin and the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure during the drying of the hydrated SC provides an insight into the moisturizing mechanism of the polyol solutions in the SC. The results show that the glycerol/diglycerol solution functions as an effective SC moisturizer at the molecular level. Further, it was confirmed that the behaviour of glycerol in the isolated SC varies from that proposed in the SC lipid model, wherein glycerol was proposed to prevent the formation of a regular hydrocarbon chain packing structure.

High concentration of the ester-linked ω-hydroxy ceramide increases the permeability in skin lipid model membranes

The ester-linked ω-hydroxy acyl chain linked to a sphingosine base referred to as CER EOS is essential for the skin barrier lipid organization. While the majority of the skin lipids form a dense, crystalline structure, associated with low permeability, the unsaturated moiety of CER EOS, (either the linoleate or the oleate chain) exists in a liquid phase at the skin's physiological temperature. Thus, the relationship between CER EOS and barrier function is not entirely comprehended. We studied the permeability and lipid organization in skin lipid models, gradually increasing in CER EOS concentration, mixed with non-hydroxy sphingosine-based ceramide (CER NS) in an equimolar ratio of CERs, cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) mimicking the ratio in the native skin. A significant increase in the orthorhombic-hexagonal phase transition temperature was recorded when CER EOS concentration was raised to 70 mol% of the total CER content and higher, rendering a higher fraction of lipids in the orthorhombic phase at the expense of the hexagonal phase at physiological temperature. The model's permeability did not differ when CER EOS concentration ranged between 10 and 30% but increased significantly at 70% and higher. Using CER EOS with a perdeuterated oleate chain, it was shown that the fraction of lipids in a liquid phase increased with CER EOS concentration, while the neighboring CERs and FFAs remained in a crystalline state. The increased fraction of the liquid phase therefore, had a stronger effect on permeability than the increased fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic phase.

Skin hydration dynamics investigated by electrical impedance techniques in vivo and in vitro

Skin is easily accessible for transdermal drug delivery and also attractive for biomarker sampling. These applications are strongly influenced by hydration where elevated hydration generally leads to increased skin permeability. Thus, favorable transdermal delivery and extraction conditions can be easily obtained by exploiting elevated skin hydration. Here, we provide a detailed in vivo and in vitro investigation of the skin hydration dynamics using three techniques based on electrical impedance spectroscopy. Good correlation between in vivo and in vitro results is demonstrated, which implies that simple but realistic in vitro models can be used for further studies related to skin hydration (e.g., cosmetic testing). Importantly, the results show that hydration proceeds in two stages. Firstly, hydration between 5 and 10 min results in a drastic skin impedance change, which is interpreted as filling of superficial voids in skin with conducting electrolyte solution. Secondly, a subtle impedance change is observed over time, which is interpreted as leveling of the water gradient across skin leading to structural relaxation/changes of the macromolecular skin barrier components. With respect to transdermal drug delivery and extraction of biomarkers; 1 h of hydration is suggested to result in beneficial and stable conditions in terms of high skin permeability and extraction efficiency.

Penetration Process of a Hydrated Deep Eutectic Solvent Through the Stratum Corneum and its Application as a Protein Penetration Enhancer

The penetration mechanism of choline chloride-glycerol deep eutectic solvent (DES) through the stratum corneum (SC) as a potential solvent for a novel enhancer of protein penetration into the skin was investigated in a wide and small angle X-ray diffraction study. We found that DES penetrated through intercellular lipids but not the corneocytes. DES seemed to extract a portion of lipids of the short lamellae in the SC. Hydrated DES with a DES to water weight ratio of 9 to 1 (9DES-1H2O) showed the strongest interaction with the lipids in the SC compared with water, DES, and hydrated DESs with another weight ratio of DES to water (DES : water=8 : 2). In a skin penetration test with a fluorescently labelled lysozyme, 9DES-1H2O increased the amount of penetration through the SC by two-fold compared with HEPES buffer.

Raman and AFM-IR chemical imaging of stratum corneum model membranes

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, is the primary barrier to percutaneous absorption. The diffusion of substances through the skin occurs through the SC lipid fraction, which is essentially constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. The lipid constituents of SC are mainly forming continuous multilamellar membranes in the solid/crystalline state. However, recent findings suggest the presence of a highly disordered (liquid) phase formed by the unsaturated C18 chain of ceramide EOS, surrounded by a highly ordered lipid environment. The aim of the present work was to study the lipid spatial distribution of model SC membranes composed of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, a mixture of free fatty acids, and cholesterol, using Raman microspectroscopy and AFM-IR spectroscopy techniques. The enhanced spatial resolution at the tens of nanometers scale of the AFM-IR technique revealed that the lipid matrix is overall homogeneous, with the presence of small, slightly enriched, and depleted regions in a lipid component. No liquid domains of ceramide EOS were observed at this scale, a result that is consistent with the model proposing that the oleate nanodrops are concentrated in the central layer of the three-layer organization of the SC membranes forming the long periodicity phase. In addition, both Raman microspectroscopy and AFM-IR techniques confirmed the fluid nature of the unsaturated chain of ceramide EOS while the rest of the lipid matrix was found highly ordered.

Arrangement of Ceramides in the Skin: Sphingosine Chains Localize at a Single Position in Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

Understanding the structure of the stratum corneum (SC) is essential to understand the skin barrier process. The long periodicity phase (LPP) is a unique trilayer lamellar structure located in the SC. Adjustments in the composition of the lipid matrix, as in many skin abnormalities, can have severe effects on the lipid organization and barrier function. Although the location of individual lipid subclasses has been identified, the lipid conformation at these locations remains uncertain. Contrast variation experiments via small-angle neutron diffraction were used to investigate the conformation of ceramide (CER) N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (NS) within both simplistic and porcine mimicking LPP models. To identify the lipid conformation of the twin chain CER NS, the chains were individually deuterated, and their scattering length profiles were calculated to identify their locations in the LPP unit cell. In the repeating trilayer unit of the LPP, the acyl chain of CER NS was located in the central and outer layers, while the sphingosine chain was located exclusively in the middle of the outer layers. Thus, for the CER NS with the acyl chain in the central layer, this demonstrates an extended conformation. Electron density distribution profiles identified that the lipid structure remains consistent regardless of the lipid's lateral packing phase, this may be partially due to the anchoring of the extended CER NS. The presented results provide a more detailed insight on the internal arrangement of the LPP lipids and how they are expected to be arranged in healthy skin.

Monoolein Assisted Oil-Based Transdermal Delivery of Powder Vaccine

An increasing number of protein vaccines have been researched for cancer, inflammation, and allergy therapies. Most of the protein therapeutics are administered through injection because orally-administered proteins are metabolized by the digestive system. Although transdermal administration has received increasing attention, the natural barrier formed by the skin is an obstacle. Monoolein is a common skin penetration enhancer that facilitates topical and transdermal drug delivery. Conventionally, it has been used in an aqueous vehicle, often with polyhydric alcohols. In the current study, monoolein was dissolved in an oil vehicle, isopropyl myristate, to facilitate the skin permeation of powder proteins. The skin permeabilities of the proteins were examined in-vivo and ex-vivo. Monoolein concentration-dependently enhanced the skin permeation of proteins. The protein permeability correlated with the zeta potential of the macromolecules. Dehydration of the stratum corneum (SC), lipid extraction from the SC, and disordering of ceramides caused by monoolein were demonstrated through Fourier transform infrared spectroscopic analysis and small-angle X-ray scattering analysis. An antigen model protein, ovalbumin from egg white, was delivered to immune cells in living mice, and induced antigen-specific IgG antibodies. The patch system showed the potential for transdermal vaccine delivery.

Reconstructed Human EpidermisIn Vitro:An Alternative to Animal Testing

Various three-dimensional human skin models, in which the epidermis exhibits in vivo-like morphological and functional characteristics, have recently been developed. Such models are currently being used to study the development and physiology of the skin, the processes involved in wound healing, and the reactivity of skin to environmental and chemical insults. Since these models reproduce to a large extent the barrier function properties of normal human skin, they can be used for screening potential skin irritants. These substances can be applied topically and their irritant potential can be evaluated using various endpoints, such as the induction of tissue damage or the release of various pro-inflammatory mediators. Studies with human skin equivalents can therefore contribute to our knowledge of the basic biochemical mechanisms underlying irritant reactions, and can be used to understand the structural features of molecules which may be responsible for eliciting an irritant reaction. In addition”, the generation of epidermal equivalents populated with melanocytes, as well as keratinocytes, makes it possible to study the regulation of melanogenesis, melanocyte–keratinocyte interactions, and how these are affected by UV irradiation. Such a model can also be used for testing the phototoxic or photoprotective potentials of various compounds and sunscreens.

Profiling of drug crystallization in the skin

BACKGROUND

Drug crystallization following application of transdermal and topical formulations may potentially compromise the delivery of drugs to the skin. This phenomenon was found to be limited to the superficial layers of the stratum corneum (~7 µm) in our recent reports and tape stripping of the skin samples was necessary. It remains a significant challenge to profile drug crystallization in situ without damaging the skin samples.

METHODS

This work reports the application of an X-ray microbeam via synchrotron SAXS/WAXS analysis to monitor drug crystallization in the skin, especially in the deeper skin layers. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) was employed to examine drug distribution in the skin to complement the detection of drug crystallization using SAXS/WAXS analysis.

RESULTS

Following application of saturated drug solutions (ibuprofen, diclofenac acid, and salts), CRS depth profiles confirmed that the drugs generally were delivered to a depth of ~15 - 20 µm in the skin. This was compared with the WAXS profiles that measured drug crystal diffraction at a depth of up to ~25 µm of the skin.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrates the potential of synchrotron SAXS/WAXS analysis for profiling of drug crystallization in situ in the deeper skin layers without pre-treatment for the skin samples. [Figure: see text].

Skin Barriers in Dermal Drug Delivery: Which Barriers Have to Be Overcome and How Can We Measure Them?

Although, drugs are required in the various skin compartments such as viable epidermis, dermis, or hair follicles, to efficiently treat skin diseases, drug delivery into and across the skin is still challenging. An improved understanding of skin barrier physiology is mandatory to optimize drug penetration and permeation. The various barriers of the skin have to be known in detail, which means methods are needed to measure their functionality and outside-in or inside-out passage of molecules through the various barriers. In this review, we summarize our current knowledge about mechanical barriers, i.e., stratum corneum and tight junctions, in interfollicular epidermis, hair follicles and glands. Furthermore, we discuss the barrier properties of the basement membrane and dermal blood vessels. Barrier alterations found in skin of patients with atopic dermatitis are described. Finally, we critically compare the up-to-date applicability of several physical, biochemical and microscopic methods such as transepidermal water loss, impedance spectroscopy, Raman spectroscopy, immunohistochemical stainings, optical coherence microscopy and multiphoton microscopy to distinctly address the different barriers and to measure permeation through these barriers in vitro and in vivo.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Development and application of coarse-grained MARTINI model of skin lipid ceramide [AP]

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin, contains large variety of lipids, endowing them with the amphiphilic properties, needed to fulfil their key role in skin's barrier function. The individual role of lipid types in the barrier function is difficult to understand due to the immense heterogeneity and complexity of the lipid's organization within the SC. The lipid organization is being explored using both computational (molecular dynamics simulations) and experimental (neutron diffraction) techniques. Even though atomistic simulations provide unprecedented atomic level details, the major limitation is time and length scale that can be achieved with decent computational facility. Alternatively, coarse-grain (CG) models are currently being used to capture physics at bigger time and length scale without losing essential underlined structural information. In this study, a CG model of α-hydroxy phytosphingosines (CER[AP]) is developed based on philosophy of MARTINI force field. At first, the model is validated with various atomistic simulations and available experimental data. Later on, the model's compatibility with other major skin lipids, cholesterol, and free fatty acid (palmitic acid) is checked by simulating a mixture of lipid multilayer in presence and absence of water. The developed model of CER[AP] is able to predict key structural properties within the acceptable error limits. The phenomena of ceramide conformation transformation, cholesterol flip-flop, and specificity of lipid arrangement within the multilayered systems is observed during the simulation. This signifies the importance of model in capturing higher order structural transformations.

Microbeam X-ray diffraction study of lipid structure in stratum corneum of human skin

Human skin, not previously frozen, was studied by small-angle X-ray diffraction. The samples were folded so that a 6μm X-ray beam passed through the top layer of skin, stratum corneum. Diffraction patterns recorded with this method consisted of peaks at about q = 0.5, 1.0 and 1.4 nm-1 in the direction perpendicular to the skin surface more clearly than in previous studies. These peaks are interpreted to arise from lipids between corneocytes. A simple unit of a linear electron density profile with three minima was used to account for the observed intensity profiles. Combinations of calculated diffraction from models with one, two and three units accounted for the major part of the observed diffraction pattern, showing the diversity in the structure of the intercellular lipids.

Transdermal delivery systems in cosmetics

Transdermal delivery systems have been intensively studied over the past 2 decades, with the focus on overcoming the skin barrier for more effective application of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. Although the cosmeceutical industry has made a substantial progress in the development and incorporation of new and effective actives in their products, the barrier function of the skin remains a limiting factor in the penetration and absorption of these actives. Enhancement via modification of the stratum corneum by hydration, acting of chemical enhancers on the structure of stratum corneum lipids, and partitioning and solubility effects are described. This review summarizes the advances in the development and mechanisms of action of chemical components that act as permeation enhancers, as well as the advances in appropriate vehicles, such as gels, emulsions, and vesicular delivery systems, that can be used for effective transdermal delivery.

Effect of Surfactant-Keratin Hydrolysate Interactions on the Hydration Properties of a Stratum Corneum Substitute

A novel stratum corneum substitute (SCS) has been developed, and the fundamental mechanism of the dehydration process has been studied using the SCS. After washing with cleansers which contain surfactants, our skin "feels" dehydrated (or hydrated). Although many studies have focused on the effect of surfactants on the regulation of the water loss by the lipid bilayers in the stratum corneum (SC) for a long timescale or at equilibrium, only few studies have focused on the acute effect of the surfactant interaction on dehydration. In addition, the interaction between the surfactant and keratin has been often underappreciated compared to lipid bilayers although keratin is the major nonaqueous component of the SC. Here, we have developed novel SCS models, nonkeratinized (lipid only) and keratinized, to study the effect of keratin hydrolysates on the dehydration rate. We have confirmed that the lipid organizational structure of the SCS was similar to that of the human SC using X-ray scattering. We have revealed that keratin hydrolysates play a significant role in the dehydration rate, accelerating the rate for the short term. We have also demonstrated that the effect of surfactants on dehydration is more pronounced for keratinized samples than that for the nonkeratinized sample. However, the dehydration rate for the nonkeratinized SCS with the surfactant became faster than the that for the keratinized SCS after the 20 min evaporation process, suggesting that the water binding sites of keratin hydrolysates slowed down evaporation, while the surfactant interacting with the lipids accelerated the water loss. Lastly, the study demonstrated that the SCS model can be a great platform to test macroscopic properties and analyze the underlying mechanism at the molecular level for various chemicals.

Permeation enhancers in transdermal drug delivery: benefits and limitations

Introduction: Transdermal drug delivery has several clinical benefits over conventional routes of drug administration. To open the transdermal route for a wider range of drugs, including macromolecules, numerous physical and chemical techniques to overcome the natural low skin permeability have been developed.Areas covered: This review focuses on permeation enhancers (penetration enhancers, percutaneous absorption promoters or accelerants), which are chemicals that increase drug flux through the skin barrier. First, skin components, drug permeation pathways, and drug properties are introduced. Next, we discuss properties of enhancers, their various classifications, structure-activity relationships, mechanisms of action, reversibility and toxicity, biodegradable enhancers, and synergistic enhancer combinations.Expert opinion: Overcoming the remarkable skin barrier properties in an efficient, temporary and safe manner remains a challenge. High permeation-enhancing potency has long been perceived to be associated with toxicity and irritation potential of such compounds, which has limited their further development. In addition, the complexity of enhancer interactions with skin, formulation and drug, along with their vast chemical diversity hampered understanding of their mechanisms of action. The recent development in the field revealed highly potent yet safe enhancers or enhancer combinations, which suggest that enhancer-aided transdermal drug delivery has yet to reach its full potential.

Effects of omega-O-acylceramide structures and concentrations in healthy and diseased skin barrier lipid membrane models

Ceramides (Cers) with ultralong (∼32-carbon) chains and ω-esterified linoleic acid, composing a subclass called omega-O-acylceramides (acylCers), are indispensable components of the skin barrier. Normal barriers typically contain acylCer concentrations of ∼10 mol%; diminished concentrations, along with altered or missing long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP), and increased permeability accompany an array of skin disorders, including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and ichthyoses. We developed model membranes to investigate the effects of the acylCer structure and concentration on skin lipid organization and permeability. The model membrane systems contained six to nine Cer subclasses as well as fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate; acylCer content-namely, acylCers containing sphingosine (Cer EOS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer EOdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer EOP) ranged from zero to 30 mol%. Systems with normal physiologic concentrations of acylCer mixture mimicked the permeability and nanostructure of human skin lipids (with regard to LPP, chain order, and lateral packing). The models also showed that the sphingoid base in acylCer significantly affects the membrane architecture and permeability and that Cer EOP, notably, is a weaker barrier component than Cer EOS and Cer EOdS. Membranes with diminished or missing acylCers displayed some of the hallmarks of diseased skin lipid barriers (i.e., lack of LPP, less ordered lipids, less orthorhombic chain packing, and increased permeability). These results could inform the rational design of new and improved strategies for the barrier-targeted treatment of skin diseases.

Contribution of Palmitic Acid to Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

The outermost barrier layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. Biosynthesis of barrier lipids occurs de novo in the epidermis or is performed with externally derived lipids. Hence, in vitro developed human skin equivalents (HSEs) are developed with culture medium that is supplemented with free fatty acids (FFAs). Nevertheless, the lipid barrier formation in HSEs remains altered compared to native human skin (NHS). The aim of this study is to decipher the role of medium supplemented saturated FFA palmitic acid (PA) on morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, HSEs were developed with 100% (25 μM), 10%, or 1% PA. In HSEs supplemented with reduced PA level, the early differentiation was delayed and epidermal activation was increased. Nevertheless, a similar SC lipid composition in all HSEs was detected. Additionally, the lipid organization was comparable for lamellar and lateral organization, irrespective of PA concentration. As compared to NHS, the level of monounsaturated lipids was increased and the FFA to ceramide ratio was drastically reduced in HSEs. This study describes the crucial role of PA in epidermal morphogenesis and elucidates the role of PA in lipid barrier formation of HSEs.

Barrier Capability of Skin Lipid Models: Effect of Ceramides and Free Fatty Acid Composition

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.

The effects of LXR agonist T0901317 and LXR antagonist GSK2033 on morphogenesis and lipid properties in full thickness skin models

Full thickness models (FTMs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). However, their stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition differs from NHS causing a reduced skin barrier. The most pronounced differences in lipid composition are a reduction in lipid chain length and increased monounsaturated lipids. The liver-X-receptor (LXR) activates the monounsaturated lipid synthesis via stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1). Therefore, the aim was to improve the SC lipid synthesis of FTMs by LXR deactivation. This was achieved by supplementing culture medium with LXR antagonist GSK2033. LXR agonist T0901317 was added for comparison. Subsequently, epidermal morphogenesis, lipid composition, lipid organization and the barrier functionality of these FTMs were assessed. We demonstrate that LXR deactivation resulted in a lipid composition with increased overall chain lengths and reduced levels of monounsaturation, whereas LXR activation increased the amount of monounsaturated lipids and led to a reduction in the overall chain length. However, these changes did not affect the barrier functionality. In conclusion, LXR deactivation led to the development of FTMs with improved lipid properties, which mimic the lipid composition of NHS more closely. These novel findings may contribute to design interventions to normalize SC lipid composition of atopic dermatitis patients.

Anionic Surfactant-Induced Changes in Skin Permeability

Anionic surfactants compromise skin's barrier function by damaging stratum corneum lipids and proteins. The objective of this study was to examine anionic surfactant-induced changes in the skin's polar and transcellular pathways and the resulting impact on surfactant penetration into the skin. Three anionic surfactant formulations and one control formulation were each applied to split-thickness human cadaver skin in vitro for 24 h. Electrical conductivity of the skin, determined using a four-terminal resistance method, and water permeation across the skin, determined using a radiolabeled water tracer, were simultaneously measured at several points over the experimental period. Surfactant permeation across the skin was similarly measured using a radiolabeled sodium dodecyl sulfate tracer. Anionic surfactants rapidly enhanced skin electrical conductivity and water permeability in the excised human skin, resulting in nonlinear enhancements in surfactant permeation across the skin over time. Surfactant penetration into the skin was found to increase linearly with increasing surfactant monomer concentration. Surfactant zeta potential was found to correlate well with skin conductivity, water permeation across the skin, and surfactant permeation across the skin, particularly with long surfactant exposures. Micelle charge is a significant predictor of anionic surfactant-induced damage to the human skin, with more highly charged surfactants inducing the most damage.

Unravelling effects of relative humidity on lipid barrier formation in human skin equivalents

Relative humidity (RH) levels vary continuously in vivo, although during in vitro generation of three-dimensional human skin equivalents (HSEs) these remain high (90-95%) to prevent evaporation of the cell-culture medium. However, skin functionality is directly influenced by environmental RH. As the barrier formation in HSEs is different, there is a need to better understand the role of cell-culture conditions during the generation of HSEs. In this study, we aim to investigate the effects of RH on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, two types of HSEs were developed at 90% or at 60% RH. Assessments were performed to determine epidermal morphogenesis by immunohistochemical analyses, ceramide composition by lipidomic analysis, and lipid organization by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray diffraction. We show that reduction of RH mainly affected the uppermost viable epidermal layers in the HSEs, including an enlargement of the granular cells and induction of epidermal cell activation. Neither the composition nor the organization of the lipids in the intercorneocyte space were substantially altered at reduced RH. In addition, lipid processing from glucosylceramides to ceramides was not affected by reduced RH in HSEs as shown by enzyme expression, enzyme activity, and substrate-to-product ratio. Our results demonstrate that RH directly influences epidermal morphogenesis, albeit the in vitro lipid barrier formation is comparable at 90% and 60% RH.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

Human skin equivalents cultured under hypoxia display enhanced epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three-dimensional cell models mimicking characteristics of native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. However, a limitation of HSEs is the altered in vitro morphogenesis and barrier formation. Differences between in vitro and in vivo skin could have been induced by suboptimal cell culture conditions, of which the level of oxygen in vitro (20%) is much higher than in vivo (0.5-8%). Our aim is to study how external oxygen levels affect epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs. In the present study, fibroblast and keratinocyte monocultures, and HSEs were generated under 20% (normoxia) and 3% (hypoxia) oxygen level. In all cultures under hypoxia, expression of hypoxia-inducible factor target genes was increased. Characterization of HSEs generated under hypoxia using immunohistochemical analyses of morphogenesis biomarkers revealed a reduction in epidermal thickness, reduced proliferation, similar early differentiation, and an attenuated terminal differentiation program compared to normoxia, better mimicking NHS. The stratum corneum ceramide composition was studied with liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Under hypoxia, HSEs exhibited a ceramide composition that more closely resembles that of NHS. Consequently, the lipid organization was improved. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs reconstructed under hypoxia better mimics that of NHS.

Characterization of human skin equivalents developed at body's core and surface temperatures

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are in vitro developed three‐dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) to a high extent. However, the epidermal lipid biosynthesis, barrier lipid composition, and organization are altered, leading to an elevated diffusion rate of therapeutic molecules. The altered lipid barrier formation in HSEs may be induced by standardized culture conditions, including a culture temperature of 37°C, which is dissimilar to skin surface temperature. Therefore, we aim to determine the influence of culture temperature during the generation of full thickness models (FTMs) on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation. For this purpose, FTMs were developed at conventional core temperature (37°C) or lower temperatures (35°C and 33°C) and evaluated over a time period of 4 weeks. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was analysed using advanced liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analysis. Our results show that SC layers accumulated at a similar rate irrespective of culture temperature. At reduced culture temperature, an increased epidermal thickness, a disorganization of the lower epidermal cell layers, a delayed early differentiation, and an enlargement of granular cells were detected. Interestingly, melanogenesis was reduced at lower temperature. The ceramide subclass profile, chain length distribution, and level of unsaturated ceramides were similar in FTMs generated at 37°C and 35°C but changed when generated at 33°C, reducing the resemblance to NHS. Herein, we report that culture temperature affects epidermal morphogenesis substantially and to a lesser extent the lipid barrier formation, highlighting the importance of optimized external parameters during reconstruction of skin.

Simultaneous Measurements of Structure and Water Permeability in an Isolated Human Skin Stratum Corneum Sheet

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin, acts as an intelligent physicochemical interface between the inside and the outside of our body. To make clear the relationship between structure and physical barrier properties of SC, we developed a method that enables us to simultaneously acquire X-ray diffraction (XD) patterns and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values using a spread SC sheet isolated from human skin. The synchrotron X-ray was incident on the SC sheet surface at an angle of 45° to avoid interference between the two kinds of measurements. Detailed comparison between XD and TEWL data suggested that the thermal behavior of water permeability is closely related to the thermal expansion of the lattice spacings of the hexagonal phases above 40 °C and to the existence ratio of the orthorhombic phase below 40 °C. Thus, the new method we developed can give useful information on the mechanism of water permeation in SC without ambiguity caused by separate measurements of structure and water permeability with different samples.

Shedding light on the effects of 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 on epidermal lipid barrier formation in three-dimensional human skin equivalents

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. Despite the manifold similarities to NHS, a restriction in its applications is the altered in vitro lipid barrier formation, which compromises the barrier functionality. This could be induced by suboptimal cell culturing conditions, which amongst others is the diminished activation of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) signalling pathway. The active metabolite of this signalling pathway is 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D₃ (1,25(OH)₂D₃). An interacting role in the formation of the skin barrier has been ascribed to this pathway, although it remains unresolved to which extent this pathway contributes to the (mal-)formation of the epidermal barrier in HSEs. Our aim is to study whether cell culture medium enriched with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ affects epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Addition of 20 nM 1,25(OH)₂D₃ resulted in activation of the VDR signalling pathway by inducing transcription of VDR target genes (CYP24A and LL37) in keratinocyte monocultures and in HSEs. Characterization of HSEs supplemented with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ using immunohistochemical analyses revealed a high similarity in epidermal morphogenesis and in expression of lipid processing enzymes. The barrier formation was assessed using state-of-the art techniques analysing lipid composition and organization. Addition of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ did not alter the composition of ceramides. Additionally, the lateral and lamellar organization of the lipids was similar, irrespective of supplementation. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs generated in presence or absence of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ leads to a similar morphogenesis and comparable barrier formation in vitro.

Long and very long lamellar phases in model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Membrane models of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid barrier, either healthy or affected by recessive X-linked ichthyosis, constructed from ceramide [Cer; nonhydroxyacyl sphingosine N-tetracosanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerNS24) alone or with omega-O-acylceramide N-(32-linoleyloxy)dotriacontanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerEOS)], FFAs(C16-24), cholesterol (Chol), and sodium cholesteryl sulfate (CholS) were investigated. X-ray diffraction (XRD) revealed a previously unreported polymorphism of the membranes. In the absence of CerEOS, the membranes formed a short lamellar phase (SLP; the repeat distance d = 5.3 nm), a medium lamellar phase (MLP; d = 10.6 nm), or very long lamellar phases (VLLP; d = 15.9 and 21.2 nm). An increased CholS-to-Chol ratio modulated the membrane polymorphism, although the CholS phase separated at ≥ 7 weight% (of total lipids). The presence of CerEOS led to the stable long lamellar phase (LLP) with d = 12.2 nm and prevented VLLP formation. Our XRD results agree well with recently published cryo-electron microscopy data for vitreous skin sections, while also revealing new structures. Thus, lamellar phases with long repeat distances (MLP and VLLP) may be formed in the absence of omega-O-acylceramide, whereas these ultralong Cer species likely stabilize the final SC lipid architecture of LLP by riveting the adjacent lipid layers.

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

Structural Transitions in Ceramide Cubic Phases during Formation of the Human Skin Barrier

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of human skin and the primary barrier toward the environment. The barrier function is maintained by stacked layers of saturated long-chain ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. This structure is formed through a reorganization of glycosylceramide-based bilayers with cubic-like symmetry into ceramide-based bilayers with stacked lamellar symmetry. The process is accompanied by deglycosylation of glycosylceramides and dehydration of the skin barrier lipid structure. Using coarse-grained molecular dynamics simulation, we show the effects of deglycosylation and dehydration on bilayers of human skin glycosylceramides and ceramides, folded in three dimensions with cubic (gyroid) symmetry. Deglycosylation of glycosylceramides destabilizes the cubic lipid bilayer phase and triggers a cubic-to-lamellar phase transition. Furthermore, subsequent dehydration of the deglycosylated lamellar ceramide system closes the remaining pores between adjacent lipid layers and locally induces a ceramide chain transformation from a hairpin-like to a splayed conformation.