Botanical antioxidants in the prevention of photocarcinogenesis and photoaging

Topical Administration of Manuka Oil Prevents UV-B Irradiation-Induced Cutaneous Photoaging in Mice

Manuka tree is indigenous to New Zealand, and its essential oil has been used as a traditional medicine to treat wounds, fever, and pain. Although there is a growing interest in the use of manuka oil for antiaging skin care products, little is known about its bioactivity. Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the primary environmental factor causing skin damage and consequently premature aging. Therefore, we evaluated manuka oil for its effects against photoaging in UV-B-irradiated hairless mice. Topical application of manuka oil suppressed the UV-B-induced increase in skin thickness and wrinkle grading in a dose-dependent manner. Application of 10% manuka oil reduced the average length, depth, and % area of wrinkles significantly, and this was correlated with inhibition of loss of collagen fiber content and epidermal hyperplasia. Furthermore, we observed that manuka oil could suppress UV-B-induced skin inflammation by inhibiting the production of inflammatory cytokines. Taken together, this study provides evidence that manuka oil indeed possesses antiphotoaging activity, and this is associated with its inhibitory activity against skin inflammation induced by UV irradiation.

Antagonizing effects and mechanisms of afzelin against UVB-induced cell damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces DNA damage, oxidative stress, and inflammatory processes in human keratinocytes, resulting in skin inflammation, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Adequate protection of skin against the harmful effects of UV irradiation is essential. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the protective effects of afzelin, one of the flavonoids, against UV irradiation in human keratinocytes and epidermal equivalent models. Spectrophotometric measurements revealed that the afzelin extinction maxima were in the UVB and UVA range, and UV transmission below 376 nm was <10%, indicating UV-absorbing activity of afzelin. In the phototoxicity assay using the 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test (3T3-NRU-PT), afzelin presented a tendency to no phototoxic potential. In addition, in order to investigate cellular functions of afzelin itself, cells were treated with afzelin after UVB irradiation. In human keratinocyte, afzelin effectively inhibited the UVB-mediated increase in lipid peroxidation and the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers. Afzelin also inhibited UVB-induced cell death in human keratinocytes by inhibiting intrinsic apoptotic signaling. Furthermore, afzelin showed inhibitory effects on UVB-induced release of pro-inflammatory mediators such as interleukin-6, tumor necrosis factor-α, and prostaglandin-E2 in human keratinocytes by interfering with the p38 kinase pathway. Using an epidermal equivalent model exposed to UVB radiation, anti-apoptotic activity of afzelin was also confirmed together with a photoprotective effect at the morphological level. Taken together, our results suggest that afzelin has several cellular activities such as DNA-protective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory as well as UV-absorbing activity and may protect human skin from UVB-induced damage by a combination of UV-absorbing and cellular activities.

A novel approach to structural facial volume replacement

Improved understanding of the anatomy and physiology of the aging face has laid the foundation for adopting an earlier and more comprehensive approach to facial rejuvenation, shifting the focus from individual wrinkle treatment and lift procedures to a holistic paradigm that considers the entire face and its structural framework. This article presents an overview of a comprehensive method to address facial aging. The key components to the reported strategy for improving facial cosmesis include, in addition to augmentation of volume loss, protection with sunscreens and antioxidants; promotion of epidermal cell turnover with techniques such as superficial chemical peels; microlaser peels and microdermabrasion; collagen stimulation and remodeling via light, ultrasound, or radiofrequency (RF)-based methods; and muscle control with botulinum toxin. For the treatment of wrinkles and for the augmentation of pan-facial dermal lipoatrophy, several types of fillers and volumizers including hyaluronic acid (HA), autologous fat, and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) or injectable poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) are available. A novel bimodal, trivector technique to restore structural facial volume loss that combines supraperiosteal depot injections of volume-depleted fat pads and dermal/subcutaneous injections for panfacial lipoatrophy with PLLA is presented. The combination of treatments with fillers; toxins; light-, sound-, and RF-based technologies; and surgical procedures may help to forestall the facial aging process and provide more natural results than are possible with any of these techniques alone.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE V

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A histochemical study of ultraviolet B irradiation and Origanum hypericifolium oil applied to the skin of mice

Ultraviolet (UV) rays cause skin damage. Chronic exposure to UV irradiation causes decreased collagen synthesis, degenerative changes in collagen bundles, accumulation of elastotic material and increased epidermal thickness. Origanum hypericifolium, an endemic Turkish plant, belongs to Lamiaceae family. The main constituents of its oil are monoterpenes including cymene, carvacrol, thymol and γ-terpinene. The effects of undiluted O. hypericifolium oil on UVB irradiated skin of mice were investigated histochemically. Four groups of female BALB/c mice, whose dorsal hair was shaved, were allocated as follows: non-UVB irradiated (Group 1), UVB-irradiated (Group 2), O. hypericifolium oil treated (Group 3), and O. hypericifolium oil treated and UVB irradiated (Group 4). Sections of dorsal skin samples were stained with Mallory's phosphotungstic acid hematoxylin for collagen fibers and Taenzer-Unna orcein for elastic fibers. Sections also were stained with hematoxylin and eosin to measure epidermal thickness. We observed intense staining of collagen and homogeneous, scattered thin elastic fibers in Group 1; scattered and weakly stained collagen and curled, amorphous, accumulate elastic fibers in Group 2; and intense staining of collagen in Groups 3 and 4. Accumulation of elastic fibers in the dermis was unremarkable in Groups 3 and 4. In Groups 3 and 4, O. hypericifolium oil treatment thickened the epidermis. Epidermal thickness was greatest in Group 4. We suggest that O. hypericifolium oil may block UVB induced alterations of collagen and elastic fibers, and increase epidermal thickness.

Photoprotective and antioxidant effects of Rhubarb: inhibitory action on tyrosinase and tyrosine kinase activities and TNF-α, IL-1α and α-MSH production in human melanocytes

BACKGROUND

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes various forms of acute and chronic skin damage, including immunosuppression, inflammation, premature aging and photodamage. Furthermore, it induces the generation of reactive oxygen species, produces proinflammatory cytokines and melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) and increases tyrosinase activity. The aim of this study was to evaluate the potential photoprotective effects of Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract on human UV-stimulated melanocytes.

METHODS

The effects of Rheum rhaponticum rhizome extract on tyrosine kinase activity, and on interleukin-1α (IL-1α), tumour necrosis factor α (TNF-α), and α-MSH production in human epidermal melanocytes were evaluated under UV-stimulated and non-stimulated conditions. Antioxidant activity was evaluated by lipid peroxidation and 1,1-dyphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) assays, while anti-tyrosinase activity was evaluated by the mushroom tyrosinase method.

RESULTS

Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract showed in vitro antioxidant properties against lipid peroxidation, free radical scavenging and anti-tyrosinase activities, and inhibited the production of IL-1α, TNF-α, α-MSH, and tyrosine kinase activity in melanocytes subjected to UV radiation.

CONCLUSIONS

These results support the inclusion of Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract into cosmetic, sunscreen and skin care products for the prevention or reduction of photodamage.

Oral green tea catechin metabolites are incorporated into human skin and protect against UV radiation-induced cutaneous inflammation in association with reduced production of pro-inflammatory eicosanoid 12-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid

Green tea catechins (GTC) reduce UV radiation (UVR)-induced inflammation in experimental models, but human studies are scarce and their cutaneous bioavailability and mechanism of photoprotection are unknown. We aimed to examine oral GTC cutaneous uptake, ability to protect human skin against erythema induced by a UVR dose range and impact on potent cyclo-oxygenase- and lipoxygenase-produced mediators of UVR inflammation, PGE2 and 12-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid (12-HETE), respectively. In an open oral intervention study, sixteen healthy human subjects (phototype I/II) were given low-dose GTC (540 mg) with vitamin C (50 mg) daily for 12 weeks. Pre- and post-supplementation, the buttock skin was exposed to UVR and the resultant erythema quantified. Skin blister fluid and biopsies were taken from the unexposed and the UVR-exposed skin 24 h after a pro-inflammatory UVR challenge (three minimal erythema doses). Urine, skin tissue and fluid were analysed for catechin content and skin fluid for PGE2 and 12-HETE by liquid chromatography coupled to tandem MS. A total of fourteen completing subjects were supplement compliant (twelve female, median 42·5 years, range 29–59 years). Benzoic acid levels were increased in skin fluid post-supplementation (P= 0·03), and methylated gallic acid and several intact catechins and hydroxyphenyl-valerolactones were detected in the skin tissue and fluid. AUC analysis for UVR erythema revealed reduced response post-GTC (P= 0·037). Pre-supplementation, PGE2 and 12-HETE were UVR induced (P= 0·003, 0·0001). After GTC, UVR-induced 12-HETE reduced from mean 64 (sd 42) to 41 (sd 32) pg/μl (P= 0·01), while PGE2 was unaltered. Thus, GTC intake results in the incorporation of catechin metabolites into human skin associated with abrogated UVR-induced 12-HETE; this may contribute to protection against sunburn inflammation and potentially longer-term UVR-mediated damage.

Oxidative stress and skin cancer: an overview

Skin is the largest body organ that serves as an important environmental interface providing a protective envelope that is crucial for homeostasis. On the other hand, it is a major target for toxic insult by a broad spectrum of physical and chemical agents that are capable of altering its structure and function. There are a large number of dietary contaminants and drugs can manifest their toxicity in skin. These environmental toxicants or their metabolites are inherent oxidants and/or directly or indirectly drive the production of a variety of reactive oxidants also known as reactive oxygen species. These are short-lived entities that are continuously generated at low levels during the course of normal aerobic metabolism. These are believed to activate proliferative and cell survival signaling that can alter apoptotic pathways that may be involved in the pathogenesis of a number of skin disorders. The skin possesses an array of antioxidant defense mechanisms that interact with toxicants to obviate their deleterious effect. The "antioxidant power" of a food is an expression of its capability both to defend the human organism from the action of the free radicals and to prevent degenerative disorders. Plants like olive trees have their own built-in protection against the oxidative damage of the sun, and these built-in protectors function as cell protectors in our own body. Although many antioxidants have shown substantive efficacy in cell culture systems and in animal models of oxidant injury, unequivocal confirmation of their beneficial effects in human populations has proven elusive.

Polypodium leucotomos decreases UV-induced epidermal cell proliferation and enhances p53 expression and plasma antioxidant capacity in hairless mice

A single dose of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) induces significant changes in blood and skin of hairless mice. Oral administration of a hydrophilic extract of the fern Polypodium leucotomos (PL, 300 mg/kg during 5 days before UVR and for two additional days after irradiation) modulates some of the effects of UVR. Most significantly, PL administration reduced the number of proliferating cells by 13%, increased the number of p53(+) cells by 63%, enhanced the antioxidant plasma capacity (ORAC) by 30% and reinforced the network of dermal elastic fibres. Western blot analysis of skin antioxidant-related enzymes failed to demonstrate significant changes caused by PL. Thus, the beneficial effect of PL likely owes to its antioxidant and anti-ROS properties rather than its modulation of the expression of endogenous antioxidant systems. These data provide mechanistic clues for its efficacy as a systemic photoprotective agent with antioxidant and anti-photo-ageing properties.

The circadian control of skin and cutaneous photodamage

Biologically, light including ultraviolet (UV) radiation is vital for life. However, UV exposure does not come without risk, as it is a major factor in the development of skin cancer. Natural protections against UV damage may have been affected by lifestyle changes over the past century, including changes in our sun exposure due to working environments, and the use of sunscreens. In addition, extended "day time" through the use of artificial light may contribute to the disruption of our circadian rhythms; the daily cycles of changes in critical bio-factors including gene expression. Circadian disruption has been implicated in many health conditions, including cardiovascular, metabolic and psychiatric diseases, as well as many cancers. Interestingly, the pineal hormone melatonin plays a role in both circadian regulation as well as protection from UV skin damage, and is therefore an important factor to consider when studying the impact of UV light. This review discusses the beneficial and deleterious effects of solar exposure, including UV skin damage, Vitamin D production, circadian rhythm disruption and the impact of melatonin. Understanding these benefits and risks is critical for the development of protective strategies against solar radiation.

Oral administration of French maritime pine bark extract (Flavangenol(®)) improves clinical symptoms in photoaged facial skin

BACKGROUND

French maritime pine bark extract (PBE) has gained popularity as a dietary supplement in the treatment of various diseases due to its polyphenol-rich ingredients. Oligometric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), a class of bioflavonoid complexes, are enriched in French maritime PBE and have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. Previous studies have suggested that French maritime PBE helps reduce ultraviolet radiation damage to the skin and may protect human facial skin from symptoms of photoaging. To evaluate the clinical efficacy of French maritime PBE in the improvement of photodamaged facial skin, we conducted a randomized trial of oral supplementation with PBE.

METHODS

One hundred and twelve women with mild to moderate photoaging of the skin were randomized to either a 12-week open trial regimen of 100 mg PBE supplementation once daily or to a parallel-group trial regimen of 40 mg PBE supplementation once daily.

RESULTS

A significant decrease in clinical grading of skin photoaging scores was observed in both time courses of 100 mg daily and 40 mg daily PBE supplementation regimens. A significant reduction in the pigmentation of age spots was also demonstrated utilizing skin color measurements.

CONCLUSION

Clinically significant improvement in photodamaged skin could be achieved with PBE. Our findings confirm the efficacy and safety of PBE.

The science behind peptides

Compounds consisting of two or more amino acids, or peptides, are the building blocks of proteins. Peptides act as transmitters from the brain to the body, telling muscles and nerves to perform specific functions. There are multiple peptides available that will achieve different topical results.

Validation of an LC method to determine skin retention profile of genistein from nanoemulsions incorporated in hydrogels

Recent studies have shown the effect of soy isoflavones in preventing skin photoaging and photocarcinogenesis, especially for genistein (GEN). Nanoemulsions have been proposed as a delivery system for GEN administration due to the low water solubility of this isoflavone. This article describes the validation of an isocratic liquid chromatography method to determine GEN in porcine ear skin layers from nanoemulsions before and after incorporation into hydrogels. The analyses are performed on a reversed-phase C18 column using a mobile phase composed of methanol-water (70:30, v/v) under acid conditions (at pH 3.0) and UV detection at 270 nm. The method is linear in the range of 0.1-10 µg/mL (r(2) > 0.999) in the presence of skin extracts. The low limit of quantitation is estimated as 0.1 µg/mL. No interferences from formulation excipients or skin layer compounds are detected. The RSD values for intra- and inter-day precision are lower than 15%. Recovery ranged from approximately 90% to 110%. The method is applied to estimate GEN retention in the skin from formulations using Franz diffusion cells. The highest amount of GEN is detected in the epidermis (185 µg/cm(2)). In conclusion, the method proved to be specific, precise, and accurate in determining GEN amounts from formulations in skin retention studies.

Differential activation of signaling pathways by UVA and UVB radiation in normal human epidermal keratinocytes

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the solar spectrum is a major etiological factor for many cutaneous pathologies including cancer. By understanding changes in cell signaling pathways induced by UVA and UVB, novel strategies for prevention and treatment of UV-related pathologies could be developed. However, much of the information in the literature from various laboratories cannot cross talk because of difficulties associated with the use of ill-defined light sources and physiologically irrelevant light dosimetry. Herein, we have assessed the effect of exposure of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) to UVA (2 and 4 J cm(-2)) or UVB (20 and 40 mJ cm(-2)) radiation. Employing western blot analysis, we found that exposure of NHEK to UVB, but not UVA, phosphorylates JNK1/2 at Th(183)/Tyr(185), STAT3 at Ser(727) , AKT at Ser(473) and increases c-Fos expression, whereas exposure to UVA, but not UVB, phosphorylates AKT at Thr(308). UVB as well as UVA exposure leads to increased phosphorylation of (1) ERK1/2 at Th(202)/Tyr(204); (2) p38 at Th(180)/Tyr(204); (3) STAT3 at Tyr(705); (4) mTOR at Thr(2448); and (v) p70S6k at Thr(421) /Ser(424); enhanced expression of PI3K (p85) and c-jun; and nuclear translocation of NFκB proteins. These findings could be considered as a beginning for understanding the differential effects of UVA and UVB in the human skin and may have implications both with respect to risk assessment from exposure to solar UV radiation, and to target interventions against signaling events mediated by UVA and UVB.

Innovative cosmeceuticals: sirtuin activators and anti-glycation compounds

Skin aging is a combination of natural aging with superimposed photoaging. Naturally aged skin is thin, fragile and finely wrinkled whereas photoaged skin is rough and thickened with deep coarse wrinkles. In addition photoaging is characterized by mottled pigmentation, solar lentigines, telangectasias and a loss of elasticity. The science behind skin aging has exploded in the past decade. Skin aging has now been defined on both a cellular and molecular level. The study of genomics in aging skin provides us with potential targets as points for intervention. In this regard, the science behind skin aging becomes a platform for the development of new anti-aging strategies and products. In this paper two new and emerging approaches to treat aging skin will be discussed. Sirtuin activating and anti-glycation products are already being marketed by cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies. These anti-aging approaches are backed by basic science research and the ingredients used are supported by proof of concept studies although clinical trials are often lacking. It is this bench to beauty counter approach to cosmeceuticals that remains an industry standard today.

Polyphenols: skin photoprotection and inhibition of photocarcinogenesis

Polyphenols are a large family of naturally occurring plant products and are widely distributed in plant foods, such as, fruits, vegetables, nuts, flowers, bark and seeds, etc. These polyphenols contribute to the beneficial health effects of dietary products. Clinical and epidemiological studies suggest that exposure of the skin to environmental factors/pollutants, such as solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation induce harmful effects and leads to various skin diseases including the risk of melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. The incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer, comprising of squamous cell carcinoma and basal cell carcinoma, is a significant public health concern world-wide. Exposure of the skin to solar UV radiation results in inflammation, oxidative stress, DNA damage, dysregulation of cellular signaling pathways and immunosuppression thereby resulting in skin cancer. The regular intake of natural plant products, especially polyphenols, which are widely present in fruits, vegetables, dry legumes and beverages have gained considerable attention as protective agents against the adverse effects of UV radiation. In this article, we first discussed the impact of polyphenols on human health based on their structure-activity relationship and bioavailability. We then discussed in detail the photoprotective effects of some selected polyphenols on UV-induced skin inflammation, proliferation, immunosuppression, DNA damage and dysregulation of important cellular signaling pathways and their implications in skin cancer management. The selected polyphenols include: green tea polyphenols, pomegranate fruit extract, grape seed proanthocyanidins, resveratrol, silymarin, genistein and delphinidin. The new information on the mechanisms of action of these polyphenols supports their potential use in skin photoprotection and prevention of photocarcinogenesis in humans.

In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics

The aim of this study was to evaluate ultraviolet (UV) absorption ability of volatile and nonvolatile herbal oils used in sunscreens or cosmetics and express the same in terms of sun protection factor (SPF) values. Sun protection factor is a laboratory measure of the effectiveness of sunscreen; the higher the SPF, the more protection a sunscreen offers against the ultraviolet radiations causing sunburn. The in vitro SPF is determined according to the spectrophotometric method of Mansur et al. Hydroalcoholic dilutions of oils were prepared, and in vitro photoprotective activity was studied by UV spectrophotometric method in the range of 290-320 nm. It can be observed that the SPF values found for nonvolatile oils were in between 2 and 8; and for volatile oils, in between 1 and 7. Among the fixed oils taken, SPF value of olive oil was found to be the highest. Similarly among essential oils, SPF value of peppermint oil was found to be the highest. The study will be helpful in the selection of oils and fragrances to develop sunscreens with better safety and high SPF. Oily vehicles are more effective for producing a uniform and long-lasting film of sunscreen on the skin, and their emollient properties protect the skin against the drying effects of exposure to wind and sun. Volatile oils are used as perfumes in cosmetics.

Protective effect of brown Brazilian propolis against acute vaginal lesions caused by herpes simplex virus type 2 in mice: involvement of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory mechanisms

Propolis has been highlighted for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antiviral properties. The purpose of this study was to investigate if brown Brazilian hydroalcoholic propolis extract (HPE) protects against vaginal lesions caused by herpes simplex virus type 2 (HSV-2) in female BALB/c mice. The treatment was divided in 5 days of pre-treatment with HPE [50 mg · kg(-1), once a day, intragastric (i.g.)], HSV-2 infection [10 µl of a solution 1 × 10(2) plaque-forming unit (PFU · ml(-1) HSV-2), intravaginal inoculation at day 6] and post-treatment with HPE (50 mg · kg(-1)) for 5 days more. At day 11, the animals were killed, and the in vivo analysis (score of lesions) and ex vivo analysis [haematological and histological evaluation; superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT) and myeloperoxidase (MPO) activities; reactive species (RS), tyrosine nitration levels, non-protein thiols (NPSH) and ascorbic acid (AA) levels] were carried out. HPE treatment reduced extravaginal lesions and the histological damage caused by HSV-2 infection in vaginal tissues of animals. HPE was able to decrease RS, tyrosine nitration, AA levels and MPO activity. Also, it protected against the inhibition of CAT activity in vaginal tissues of mice. HPE promoted protective effect on HSV-2 infected animals by acting on inflammatory and oxidative processes, and this effect probably is caused by its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Protective effect of astragaloside IV against matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression in ultraviolet-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induces skin photoaging associated with up-regulated matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression. Inhibition of MMP expression is suggested to alleviate photoaging induced by UV irradiation. Astragaloside IV (As-IV), one of the main active ingredients of Astragalus membranaceus (Fisch) Bge, has been reported to have various biological activities. However, its anti-photoaging effect has not been examined to date. In the present study, we observed the effect of As-IV on matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in UV-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). We found that treatment with As-IV significantly decreased UV-induced MMP-1 expression at the messenger RNA and protein levels. In addition, western blotting analysis revealed that As-IV concentration-dependently suppressed UV-induced phosphorylation of extracellular-regulated protein kinase, Jun-N-terminal kinase and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK). Furthermore, treatment with As-IV markedly inhibited UV-induced nuclear factor kappaB (NF-κB) activity. These results suggest that As-IV down-regulates UV-induced MMP-1 expression, perhaps through suppression of MAPK and NF-κB activation in HDFs. As-IV is thus a potential agent for the management of skin photoaging.

Chrysin protects epidermal keratinocytes from UVA- and UVB-induced damage

Chrysin (5,7-dihydroxyflavone), a natural flavonoid occurring in various plants and foods such as propolis and honey, reportedly opposes inflammation and carcinogenesis, but has rarely been applied in skin care. This study, therefore, aimed to explore the roles of chrysin in protection against UV-induced damage in HaCaT keratinocytes. Results showed that chrysin can attenuate apoptosis, reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, and cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) expression induced by UVB and UVA. Chrysin predominantly reversed the down-regulation of aquaporin 3 (AQP-3) by UVB. It predominantly reversed JNK activation and also mildly inhibited p38 activation triggered by UVA and UVB. Animal studies revealed that chrysin's topical application demonstrated efficient percutaneous absorption and no skin irritation. Overall, results demonstrated significant benefits of chrysin on the protection of keratinocytes against UVA- and UVB-induced injuries and suggested its potential use in skin photoprotection.

Synergic Effect of Genistein and Daidzein on UVB-Induced DNA Damage: An Effective Photoprotective Combination

The anti-inflammatory effects and antioxidant activities of individual isoflavones are well established although little is known about the photoprotective effect of their combination. The aim of this study was to investigate the photoprotective effects of different concentrations of genistein and daidzein individually or combined. We measured the expression levels of the cyclo-oxygenase-2 (COX-2) and growth arrest and DNA-damage inducible (Gadd45) genes, which are involved in inflammation and DNA repair, respectively, in BJ-5ta human skin fibroblasts irradiated with 60 mJ/cm² UVB. We also determined the cellular response to UVB-induced DNA damage by Comet assay. We report that genistein and daidzein when administered combined, and at a specific concentration and ratio, exerted a synergistic photoprotective effect that was greater than the effect obtained with each isoflavone alone. The results reported herein suggest that low concentrations of genistein and daidzein combined may be good candidate ingredients for protective agents against UV-induced photodamage.

Green tea polyphenols provide photoprotection, increase microcirculation, and modulate skin properties of women

Dietary constituents including polyphenols and carotenoids contribute to endogenous photoprotection and modulate skin characteristics related to structure and function of the tissue. Animal and in-vitro studies indicate that green tea polyphenols affect skin properties. In a 12-wk, double-blind, placebo-controlled study, 60 female volunteers were randomized to an intervention or control group. Participants consumed either a beverage with green tea polyphenols providing 1402 mg total catechins/d or a control beverage. Skin photoprotection, structure, and function were measured at baseline (wk 0), wk 6, and wk 12. Following exposure of the skin areas to 1.25 minimal erythemal dose of radiation from a solar simulator, UV-induced erythema decreased significantly in the intervention group by 16 and 25% after 6 and 12 wk, respectively. Skin structural characteristics that were positively affected included elasticity, roughness, scaling, density, and water homeostasis. Intake of the green tea polyphenol beverage for 12 wk increased blood flow and oxygen delivery to the skin. Likewise, in a separate, randomized, double-blind, single-dose (0.5, 1.0, and 2.0 g) study of green tea polyphenols, blood flow was maximized at 30 min after ingestion. In summary, green tea polyphenols delivered in a beverage were shown to protect skin against harmful UV radiation and helped to improve overall skin quality of women.

Natural agents: cellular and molecular mechanisms of photoprotection

The skin is the largest organ of the body that produces a flexible and self-repairing barrier and protects the body from most common potentially harmful physical, environmental, and biological insults. Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the major environmental insults to the skin and causes multi-tiered cellular and molecular events eventually leading to skin cancer. The past decade has seen a surge in the incidence of skin cancer due to changes in life style patterns that have led to a significant increase in the amount of UV radiation that people receive. Reducing excessive exposure to UV radiation is desirable; nevertheless this approach is not easy to implement. Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop novel strategies to reduce the adverse biological effects of UV radiation on the skin. A wide variety of natural agents have been reported to possess substantial skin photoprotective effects. Numerous preclinical and clinical studies have elucidated that natural agents act by several cellular and molecular mechanisms to delay or prevent skin cancer. In this review article, we have summarized and discussed some of the selected natural agents for skin photoprotection.

Nitroxides and a nitroxide-based UV filter have the potential to photoprotect UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts against oxidative damage

BACKGROUND

Antioxidants are now being incorporated into sunscreens as additional topical measure for delaying the aging process and reducing photo-damage to skin induced by excessive UVA exposure. UVA radiation reaching the skin leads to the generation of ROS (reactive oxygen species) implicated in DNA damage and activation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) responsible for collagen damage and photo-aging. Nitroxides are a class of compounds endowed with versatile antioxidant activity and recently, nitroxide-based UV filters in which a nitroxide moiety has been attached to the most popular UV filter present in sunscreens have been developed.

OBJECTIVE

This study explores the potential photo-protective effects of these compounds on ROS production and induction of MMP-1 in cultured human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA. For comparison, vitamin E was also tested.

METHODS

The effects were assessed by measuring intracellular ROS production using a ROS-index probe and MMP-1 mRNA expression levels using quantitative real-time PCR (qPCR).

RESULTS

Exposure of fibroblasts to 18J/cm(2) UVA lead to a two-fold increase in ROS production which was reduced to non-irradiated control levels in the presence of 50μM nitroxide compounds and vitamin E. Under the same conditions, a ten-fold increase in MMP-1 mRNA expression levels was observed 24h post-UVA treatment which was significantly reduced by all nitroxide compounds but not vitamin E.

CONCLUSION

The results of this study support the potential use of nitroxide compounds, including novel nitroxide-based UV filters, as a useful and alternative strategy for improving the efficacy of topical formulations against photo-aging and possibly photo-carcinogenesis.

cis-Urocanic acid enhances prostaglandin E2 release and apoptotic cell death via reactive oxygen species in human keratinocytes

Urocanic acid (UCA) is a major UVR-absorbing skin molecule that undergoes trans to cis photoisomerization in the epidermis following UVR exposure. Murine studies have established that cis-UCA is an important mediator of UVR-induced immune suppression, but little is known about its signaling pathway. We have previously demonstrated that treatment of normal human epidermal keratinocytes with cis-UCA resulted in increased synthesis of prostaglandin E(2) (PGE(2)) and cell death. Here, using immortalized human keratinocytes, we report that cis-UCA but not trans-UCA generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) in a dose-dependent manner and that the natural antioxidant α-tocopherol can reduce this ROS generation, subsequent PGE(2) release, and apoptotic cell death. Western blot analysis revealed that cis-UCA leads to a transient phosphorylation of EGFR as well as downstream mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and p38. Pharmacological inhibition of their activity attenuated PGE(2) release induced by cis-UCA. After transient activation, cis-UCA downregulated EGFR protein expression that corresponded to activation of caspase-3. In addition, pretreatment with α-tocopherol inhibited EGFR downregulation and caspase-3 activation induced by cis-UCA. These results suggest that cis-UCA exerts its effects on human keratinocytes via intracellular ROS generation that modulates EGFR signaling and subsequently induces PGE(2) synthesis and apoptotic cell death.

Anti-photoaging effects of soy isoflavone extract (aglycone and acetylglucoside form) from soybean cake

Soy isoflavones, found in soybean and soybean products, have been reported to possess many physiological activities such as antioxidant activity, inhibition of cancer cell proliferation, reduction of cardiovascular risk, prevention of osteoporosis and alleviation of postmenopausal syndrome. In our previous study, soy isoflavone extract ISO-1 (containing 12 soy isoflavones) from soybean cake was demonstrated to prevent skin damage caused by UVB exposure. In this study, soy isoflavone extract from soybean cake was further purified and evaluated for the protective effects on UVB-induced damage. The results revealed that Fraction 3, which contains the aglycone group (daidzein, genistein and glycitein) and acetylglucoside group (acetyldaidzin, acetylgenistin and acetylglycitin) of soy isoflavones, could inhibit UVB-induced death of human keratinocytes and reduce the level of desquamation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema and epidermal thickness in mouse skin. Furthermore, topical application of Fraction 3 increased the activity of catalase and suppressed cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA) expression in mice exposed to UVB. In addition, in comparison with ISO-1 and genistein, the Fraction 3 possessed much greater protective effects on both UVB-induced oxidative stress and keratinocyte death than other fractions. Therefore, the soy isoflavone extract Fraction 3 from soybean cake is a desirable anti-photoaging agent for skin care.

Oral feeding of pomegranate fruit extract inhibits early biomarkers of UVB radiation-induced carcinogenesis in SKH-1 hairless mouse epidermis

Pomegranate from the plant Punica granatum L. possesses strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Recently, we have demonstrated that treatment of normal human epidermal keratinocytes with pomegranate fruit extract (PFE) inhibited UVB-mediated activation of nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and mitogen activated protein kinases pathways. Here, we evaluated the effect of PFE on early biomarkers of photocarcinogenesis employing SKH-1 hairless mice. PFE was provided in drinking water (0.2%, wt/vol) to SKH-1 hairless mice for 14 days before a single UVB (180 mJ cm(-2)) irradiation. We found that oral feeding of PFE inhibited UVB-induced: (1) skin edema; (2) hyperplasia; (3) infiltration of leukocytes; (4) lipid peroxidation; (5) hydrogen peroxide generation; (6) ornithine decarboxylase (ODC) activity; and (7) ODC, cyclooxygenase-2 and proliferating cell nuclear antigen protein expression. Oral feeding of PFE enhanced repair of UVB-mediated formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-oxodG). Importantly, PFE treatment further enhanced UVB-mediated increase in tumor suppressor p53 and cyclin kinase inhibitor p21. Furthermore, oral feeding of PFE inhibited UVB-mediated: (1) nuclear translocation of NF-κB; (2) activation of IKKα; and (3) phosphorylation and degradation of IκBα. Taken together, we provide evidence that oral feeding of PFE to mice affords substantial protection from the adverse effects of UVB radiation via modulation in early biomarkers of photocarcinogenesis and provide suggestion for its photochemopreventive potential.

Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review

Botanical extracts and single compounds are increasingly used in cosmetics but also in over-the-counter drugs and food supplements. The focus of the present review is on controlled clinical trials with botanicals in the treatment of acne, inflammatory skin diseases, skin infections, UV-induced skin damage, skin cancer, alopecia, vitiligo, and wounds. Studies with botanical cosmetics and drugs are discussed, as well as studies with botanical food supplements. Experimental research on botanicals was considered to a limited extent when it seemed promising for clinical use in the near future. In acne therapy, Mahonia, tea tree oil, and Saccharomyces may have the potential to become standard treatments. Mahonia, Hypericum, Glycyrrhiza and some traditional Chinese medicines appear promising for atopic dermatitis. Some plant-derived substances like dithranol and methoxsalen (8-methoxypsoralen) [in combination with UVA] are already accepted as standard treatments in psoriasis; Mahonia and Capsicum (capsaicin) are the next candidates suggested by present evidence. Oral administration and topical application of antioxidant plant extracts (green and black tea, carotenoids, coffee, and many flavonoids from fruits and vegetables) can protect skin from UV-induced erythema, early aging, and irradiation-induced cancer. Hair loss and vitiligo are also traditional fields of application for botanicals. According to the number and quality of clinical trials with botanicals, the best evidence exists for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, i.e. atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. However, many more controlled clinical studies are needed to determine the efficacy and risks of plant-derived products in dermatology. Safety aspects, especially related to sensitization and photodermatitis, have to be taken into account. Therefore, clinicians should not only be informed of the beneficial effects but also the specific adverse effects of botanicals used for dermatologic disorders and cosmetic purposes.

Genistein protects against UVB-induced senescence-like characteristics in human dermal fibroblast by p66Shc down-regulation

BACKGROUND

Genistein, as an active compound of dietary antioxidants, has shown considerable promise as an effective agent against aging process. However, the effect of genistein on skin photoaging and the associated mechanism remain unclear.

OBJECTIVE

To delineate the effect of genistein on UVB-induced senescence in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) with emphasis on the mechanism of oxidative pathway regulated by p66Shc involved in the events.

METHODS

HDFs were induced to premature senescence by repetitive subcytotoxic doses of UVB irradiation. Cellular apoptosis and DNA cell cycle were analyzed using flow cytometry. Intracellular levels of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA) were detected by ELISA. Mutation levels of two large deletions of mitochondrial DNA, 4977bp and 3895bp deletion, were determined by quantitative PCR. Western blot was applied to detect the expression and activation of p66Shc (the 66-kilodalton isoform of the growth factor adapter Shc) and FKHRL1 (a forkhead protein that is intimately linked with intracellular oxidation).

RESULTS

Strong activity of senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-beta-gal), high percent of cell apoptosis as well as cell cycle arrest in G0/G1 phase, and increased intracellular oxidative stress were observed in HDFs irradiated by UVB. Genistein exerted dramatically protective effects on HDFs in a dose-dependent manner. Elevated copy numbers of large deletions in mitochondrial DNA were also inhibited by genistein. Down-regulation of total and phosphorylated p66Shc on Ser36, as well as FKHRL1 and its phosphorylation on Thr32, were observed after genistein treatment.

CONCLUSION

The results indicate that genistein protects UVB-induced senescence-like characteristics in HDFs via maintenance of antioxidant enzyme activities and modulation of mitochondrial oxidative stress through down-regulation of a p66Shc-dependent signaling pathway, which may provide potential prevention against skin aging and even photoaging.

Phytoconstituents as photoprotective novel cosmetic formulations

Phytoconstituents are gaining popularity as ingredients in cosmetic formulations as they can protect the skin against exogenous and endogenous harmful agents and can help remedy many skin conditions. Exposure of skin to sunlight and other atmospheric conditions causes the production of reactive oxygen species, which can react with DNA, proteins, and fatty acids, causing oxidative damage and impairment of antioxidant system. Such injuries damage regulation pathways of skin and lead to photoaging and skin cancer development. The effects of aging include wrinkles, roughness, appearance of fine lines, lack of elasticity, and de- or hyperpigmentation marks. Herbal extracts act on these areas and produce healing, softening, rejuvenating, and sunscreen effects. We have selected a few photoprotective phytoconstituents, such as curcumin, resveratrol, tea polyphenols, silymarin, quercetin and ascorbic acid, and have discussed the considerations to be undertaken for the development of herbal cosmetic formulations that could reduce the occurrence of skin cancer and delay the process of photoaging. This article is aimed at providing specific and compiled knowledge for the successful preparation of photoprotective herbal cosmetic formulations.

In vitro and in vivo anti-photoaging effects of an isoflavone extract from soybean cake

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Soy has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for thousands of years for its health and nutritional benefits, as well as to treat and care for the skin. Advanced skin care research has shown that soy isoflavone and genistein are effective in reducing damage to the skin from the sun.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To study the protective effects of isoflavone extract from soybean cake against the UVB-induced skin damage.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The in vitro effects and possible mechanisms of soybean extract on UVB protection were determined in HaCaT cells. In the in vivo study, ICR-Foxn/(nu) mice were irradiated with UVB. The epidermal thickness, catalase and the expressions of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA) were detected to evaluate the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of the isoflavone extract.

RESULTS

Our in vitro studies showed that UVB-induced HaCaT cell death and the phosphorylation of p38, JNK, and ERK1/2 decreased in the presence of isoflavone extract. In the in vivo studies, we found that the topical application of isoflavone extract before UVB irritation decreased the epidermal thickness and the expressions of COX-2 and PCNA and increased catalase concentration. These results showed anti-photoaging effect of isoflavone extract from soybean cake involved the inhibition of UVB-induced apoptosis and inflammation.

CONCLUSIONS

It is shown that isoflavone extract from soybean cake may be functional cosmeceutical candidate for skin photoaging.

Topical application of green and white tea extracts provides protection from solar-simulated ultraviolet light in human skin

BACKGROUND

Tea polyphenols have been found to exert beneficial effects on the skin via their antioxidant properties.

AIMS

We sought to determine whether topical application of green tea or white tea extracts would prevent simulated solar radiation-induced oxidative damages to DNA and Langerhans cells that may lead to immune suppression and carcinogenesis.

METHODS

Skin samples were analysed from volunteers or skin explants treated with white tea or green tea after UV irradiation. In another group of patients, the in vivo immune protective effects of green and white tea were evaluated using contact hypersensitivity to dinitrochlorobenzene.

RESULTS

Topical application of green and white tea offered protection against detrimental effects of UV on cutaneous immunity. Such protection is not because of direct UV absorption or sunscreen effects as both products showed a sun protection factor of 1. There was no significant difference in the levels of protection afforded by the two agents. Hence, both green tea and white tea are potential photoprotective agents that may be used in conjunction with established methods of sun protection.

Non-sunscreen photoprotection: antioxidants add value to a sunscreen

The association between ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure and both skin cancer and photo-aging is well documented. In addition to the conventional organic-chemical and physical-mineral type sunscreens, other non-sunscreen protective strategies have been developed. These include topically applied botanical extracts and other antioxidants as well as topical DNA repair enzymes. Standard terms of photoprotection such as sun protection factor (SPF) do not accurately reflect the photoprotection benefits of these materials. For example, in spite of minimal SPF, tea extract containing polyphenols such as (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) has been shown to protect against UV-induced DNA damage and immune suppression, in part through its ability to reduce oxidative stress and inhibit NF-kB. The addition of botanical antioxidants and vitamins C and E to a broad-spectrum sunscreen may further decrease UV-induced damage compared with sunscreen alone. These agents have been shown to enhance protection against UV-induced epidermal thickening, overexpression of MMP-1and MMP-9, and depletion of CD1a(+) Langerhans cells. Non-sunscreen materials such as botanical extracts, antioxidants, and DNA repair enzymes can contribute value when applied topically to human skin in vivo.Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2009) 14, 56-59; doi:10.1038/jidsymp.2009.14.

Protective effect of pomegranate-derived products on UVB-mediated damage in human reconstituted skin

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation, particularly its UVB (290-320 nm) component, is the primary cause of many adverse biological effects including photoageing and skin cancer. UVB radiation causes DNA damage, protein oxidation and induces matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Photochemoprevention via the use of botanical antioxidants in affording protection to human skin against UVB damage is receiving increasing attention. Pomegranate, from the tree Punica granatum, contains anthocyanins and hydrolysable tannins and possesses strong antioxidant and anti-tumor-promoting properties. In this study, we determined the effect of pomegranate-derived products--POMx juice, POMx extract and pomegranate oil (POMo)--against UVB-mediated damage using reconstituted human skin (EpiDerm(TM) FT-200). EpiDerm was treated with POMx juice (1-2 microl/0.1 ml/well), POMx extract (5-10 microg/0.1 ml/well) and POMo (1-2 microl/0.1 ml/well) for 1 h prior to UVB (60 mJ/cm(2)) irradiation and was harvested 12 h post-UVB to assess protein oxidation, markers of DNA damage and photoageing by Western blot analysis and immunohistochemistry. Pretreatment of Epiderm with pomegranate-derived products resulted in inhibition of UVB-induced (i) cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD), (ii) 8-dihydro-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG), (iii) protein oxidation and (iv) proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA) protein expression. We also found that pretreatment of Epiderm with pomegranate-derived products resulted in inhibition of UVB-induced (i) collagenase (MMP-1), (ii) gelatinase (MMP-2, MMP-9), (iii) stromelysin (MMP-3), (iv) marilysin (MMP-7), (v) elastase (MMP-12) and (vi) tropoelastin. Gelatin zymography revealed that pomegranate-derived products inhibited UVB-induced MMP-2 and MMP-9 activities. Pomegranate-derived products also caused a decrease in UVB-induced protein expression of c-Fos and phosphorylation of c-Jun. Collectively, these results suggest that all three pomegranate-derived products may be useful against UVB-induced damage to human skin.

Food intake, dietary patterns, and actinic keratoses of the skin: a longitudinal study

BACKGROUND

Actinic keratoses (AKs) are premalignant actinic tumors of the skin. Evaluation of the role of diet in their development is lacking.

OBJECTIVE

The objective was to determine whether intake of certain food groups or dietary patterns retard the occurrence of AKs over a 4.5-y period.

DESIGN

In a community-based study of skin cancer in Queensland, Australia, food intake of 1119 adults was assessed in 1992, 1994, and 1996 by using a validated food-frequency questionnaire. Dermatologists counted prevalent AKs during full-body skin examinations in 1992 and 1996. The relative ratio (RR) of AK counts in 1996 relative to 1992 was compared across increasing intakes of 26 food groups, and for 3 dietary patterns identified by principal components analysis, with the use of generalized linear models with negative binomial distribution, allowing for repeated measures. All analyses were adjusted for confounding factors, including skin color and sun exposure indexes.

RESULTS

AK acquisition decreased by 28% (RR: 0.72; 95% CI: 0.55, 0.95) among the highest consumers of oily fish (average of one serving every 5 d) compared with those with minimal intake. Similarly, the rate of acquisition of AKs was reduced by 27% (RR: 0.73; 95% CI: 0.54, 0.99) in those with the highest consumption of wine (average of half a glass a day in this study population). There was no consistent association of dietary pattern with AK acquisition.

CONCLUSION

Moderate intake of oily fish and of wine may decrease the acquisition of AKs and thus complement sun protection measures in the control of actinic skin tumors.

Sensory neurons and schwann cells respond to oxidative stress by increasing antioxidant defense mechanisms

Elevated blood glucose is a key initiator of mechanisms leading to diabetic neuropathy. Increases in glucose induce acute mitochondrial oxidative stress in dorsal root ganglion (DRG) neurons, the sensory neurons normally affected in diabetic neuropathy, whereas Schwann cells are largely unaffected. We propose that activation of an antioxidant response in DRG neurons would prevent glucose-induced injury. In this study, mild oxidative stress (1 microM H2O2) leads to the activation of the transcription factor Nrf2 and expression of antioxidant (phase II) enzymes. DRG neurons are thus protected from subsequent hyperglycemia-induced injury, as determined by activation of caspase 3 and the TUNEL assay. Schwann cells display high basal antioxidant enzyme expression and respond to hyperglycemia and mild oxidative stress via further increases in these enzymes. The botanical compounds resveratrol and sulforaphane activate the antioxidant response in DRG neurons. Other drugs that protect DRG neurons and block mitochondrial superoxide, identified in a compound screen, have differential ability to activate the antioxidant response. Multiple cellular targets exist for the prevention of hyperglycemic oxidative stress in DRG neurons, and these form the basis for new therapeutic strategies against diabetic neuropathy.

Raman spectroscopic analysis of the increase of the carotenoid antioxidant concentration in human skin after a 1-week diet with ecological eggs

Skin aging is mainly caused by the destructive action of free radicals, produced by the UV light of the sun. The human skin has developed a protection system against these highly reactive molecules in the form of the antioxidative potential. Carotenoids are one of the main components of the antioxidants of the human skin. From former studies, it is known that skin aging is reduced in individuals with high levels of carotenoids. Because most of the antioxidants cannot be produced by the human organism, they must be up taken by nutrition. Using noninvasive Raman spectroscopic measurements it is demonstrated that not only fruits and vegetables but also eggs contain high concentrations of antioxidants including carotenoids, which are even doubled in the case of ecological eggs. After a 1-week diet with ecological eggs performed by six volunteers, it is found that the concentration of the carotenoids in the skin of the volunteers increased by approx. 20%. Our study does not intend to recommend exorbitant egg consumption, as eggs also contain harmful cholesterol. But in the case of egg consumption, ecological eggs from hens kept on pasture should be preferred to also receive a benefit for the skin.

Comparison of human and porcine skin for characterization of sunscreens

The universal sun protection factor (USPF) characterizing sunscreen efficacy based on spectroscopically determined data, which were obtained using the tape stripping procedure. The USPF takes into account the complete ultraviolet (UV) spectral range in contrast to the classical sun protection factor (SPF). Until now, the USPF determination has been evaluated only in human skin. However, investigating new filters not yet licensed excludes in vivo investigation on human skin but requires the utilization of a suitable skin model. The penetration behavior and the protection efficacy of 10 commercial sunscreens characterized by USPF were investigated, comparing human and porcine skin. The penetration behavior found for typical UV filter substances is nearly identical for both skin types. The comparison of the USPF obtained for human and porcine skin results in a linear relation between both USPF values with a correlation factor R(2)=0.98. The results demonstrate the possibility for the use of porcine skin to determine the protection efficacy of sunscreens.