Palmitoyl ascorbate: Selective augmentation of procollagen mRNA expression compared withL-ascorbate in human intestinal smooth muscle cells

A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy

Vitamin C is a popular ingredient in over-the-counter cosmeceuticals due to its many biological functions in maintaining and improving skin health by treating UV damage, improving discoloration, and boosting collagen production. Several chemically modified derivatives of vitamin C have been developed in an attempt to increase the stability, percutaneous absorption, and overall activity of this ingredient in topical formulations. The goal of this review is to evaluate the differences between vitamin C derivatives that have been designed for cosmeceutical use and their efficacy.

Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals and over-the-counter cosmeceuticals incorporating antioxidants are among the most popular anti-aging products available. One potent antioxidant of particular note, vitamin C, has been extensively utilized because it possesses a variety of other cutaneous benefits including photoprotection from UV A & B, neocollagenesis, inhibition of melanogenesis and improvement of a variety of inflammatory skin disorders. However, the instability of this water-soluble vitamin, together with difficulties associated with its topical delivery, has presented issues for the formulation chemist. This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies that underpin the stability, percutaneous absorption, and cutaneous effects of vitamin C together with its commonly utilized, commercially available derivatives.

Permeation and metabolism of a series of novel lipophilic ascorbic acid derivatives, 6-O-acyl-2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acids with a branched-acyl chain, in a human living skin equivalent model

A series of novel lipophilic vitamin C derivatives, 6-O-acyl-2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acids possessing a branched-acyl chain of varying length from C(8) to C(16) (6-bAcyl-AA-2G), were evaluated as topical prodrugs of ascorbic acid (AA) with transdermal activity in a human living skin equivalent model. The permeability of 6-bAcyl-AA-2G was compared with those of the derivatives having a straight-acyl chain (6-sAcyl-AA-2G). Out of 10 derivatives of 6-sAcyl-AA-2G and 6-bAcyl-AA-2G, 6-sDode-AA-2G and 6-bDode-AA-2G exhibited most excellent permeability in this model. Measurement of the metabolites permeated from the skin model suggested that 6-bDode-AA-2G was mainly hydrolyzed via 6-O-acyl AA to AA by tissue enzymes, while 6-sDode-AA-2G was hydrolyzed via 2-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid to AA. The former metabolic pathway seems to be advantageous for a readily available source of AA, because 6-O-acyl AA, as well as AA, is able to show vitamin C activity.

Apoptosis by 6-O-palmitoyl-l-ascorbic acid coincides with JNK-phosphorylation and inhibition of Mg2+-dependent phosphatase activity

6-O-Palmitoyl ascorbic acid (PAA) has recently been used as a substitute for ascorbic acid because of its greater potency as an antioxidant. In detailed concentration response studies distinct cytotoxic effects of PAA at concentrations exceeding 100 microM were reported. Here we examined and further characterized this cytotoxicity. While ascorbic acid was tolerated well up to millimolar concentrations, PAA revealed an LC50 between 125 and 150 microM in rat GH3 tumor cells. Morphological and biochemical observations suggested the induction of apoptosis at concentrations exceeding 125 microM with a prominent activation of caspase 3 at 250 microM after 4 hr. A subsequent pronounced fragmentation of DNA (DNA-ladder) was detected after 6 hr and was further enhanced after 12 hr. The activation of caspases and the cleavage of its substrate PARP was preceded by a distinct increase in the phosphorylation of stress activated JNK-kinases. This observation suggested that the agent affected signal transduction mechanisms regulating protein phosphorylation at serine/threonine residues in the cell. No effect of PAA on protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A)-like activity was observed while magnesium-dependent protein phosphatase activity, presumably PP2C, was inhibited concentration-dependently up to 75% at the respective concentrations. Thus, the cytotoxic, pro-apoptotic effect of PAA might be related to the inhibition of PP2C and the activation of JNK.

Diverse effects of ascorbic acid and palmitoyl ascorbate on Helicobacter pylori survival and growth

Among many antioxidants used in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, ascorbic acid (AA) is one of the most important. AA has been suggested to decrease the risk of gastric disease (gastritis, duodenal ulcer, and carcinoma) by direct action on Helicobacter pylori. However, there are limited studies on the possible role of AA and its derivatives such as palmitoyl ascorbate (PA) on the growth and survival of H. pylori. In the present study it was demonstrated in vitro that AA in the concentration range 10-20 mg x ml(-1) (50-100 mM) inhibited H. pylori growth in liquid medium under microaerophilic conditions. In contrast, under aerobic conditions AA in the concentration range 2-20 mg x ml(-1) (10-100 mM) significantly increased the survival of H. pylori presumably eliminating the toxic effect of reactive oxygen species on bacterial cells. The hydrophobic derivative of AA, PA (a food antioxidant), demonstrated a strong antibacterial effect, under both aerobic and microaerophilic conditions in the concentration range 0.04-0.4 mg x ml(-1) (0.1-1.0 mM). This effect was also tested on other bacterial strains: Escherichia coli, Proteus vulgaris, Proteus mirabilis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterococcus faecalis, Bacillus cereus, Bacillus subtilis, Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Clostridium sporogenes and Campylobacter jejuni. Among these bacterial strains, PA showed a similar inhibitory effect on B. cereus and B. subtilis as observed with H. pylori. The results suggest that PA may be considered an important AA derivative in eradication of H. pylori in vitro and in vivo and to decrease the risk for gastric diseases.

Discoidin domain receptors and their ligand, collagen, are temporally regulated in fetal rat fibroblasts in vitro

The biochemical regulation of collagen deposition during adult cutaneous wound repair is poorly understood. Likewise, how collagen is perceived and modulated in fetal scarless healing remains unknown. Recently, discoidin domain receptors-1 and 2 (DDR1 and DDR2) with tyrosine kinase activity have been identified as novel receptors for collagen. In light of these findings, it was speculated that the production of collagen receptors DDR1 and DDR2 by fetal fibroblasts may be temporally regulated to correlate with the ontogeny of embryonic scar formation. More specifically, because DDRs directly bind collagen and transmit the signals intracellularly, it was hypothesized that they may play an important role in fetal scarless healing by ultimately regulating and modulating collagen production and organization. As part of a fundamental assessment to elucidate the role of DDRs in scarless fetal wound repair, the endogenous expression of DDR1, DDR2, collagen I, and total collagen, as a function of fetal Sprague-Dawley rat skin fibroblasts of different gestational ages, representing scar-free (<E16.5 days) and scar-forming (>E16.5) periods was determined. Using explanted dermal fibroblasts of gestational days E13.5, E16.5, E18.5, and E21.5 (term gestation = 21.5 days) fetuses (n = 92), [3H]proline incorporation assay and Northern and Western blotting analysis were performed to compare the expressions of these molecules with scar-free and scar-forming stages of embryonic development. These results revealed a pattern of increasing collagen production with increasing gestational ages, whereas DDR1 expression decreased with increasing gestational age. This observation suggests that elevated levels of DDR1 may play an important role in scarless tissue regeneration by early gestation fetal fibroblasts. In contrast, DDR2 was expressed by fetal rat fibroblasts at a similar level throughout gestation. These data demonstrate for the first time the temporal expression of collagen and DDR tyrosine kinases in fetal rat fibroblasts as a function of gestational ages. Overall, these data suggest that differential temporal expression of the above-mentioned molecules during fetal skin development may play an important role in the ontogeny of scar formation. Future studies will involve the characterization of the biomolecular functions of these receptor kinases during fetal wound repair.