Serpin A1 C-Terminal Peptides as Collagen Turnover Modulators

Retro-Inverso Collagen Modulator Peptide Derived from Serpin A1 with Enhanced Stability and Activity In Vitro

The rising demand for novel cosmeceutical ingredients has highlighted peptides as a significant category. Based on the collagen turnover modulation properties of SA1-III, a decapeptide derived from a serine protease inhibitor (serpin A1), this study focused on designing shorter, second-generation peptides endowed with improved properties. A tetrapeptide candidate was further modified employing the retro-inverso approach that uses d-amino acids aiming to enhance peptide stability against dermal enzymes. Surprisingly, the modified peptide AAT11RI displayed notably high activity in vitro, as compared to its precursors, and suggested a mode of action based on the inhibition of collagen degradation. It is worth noting that AAT11RI showcases stability against dermal enzymes contained in human skin homogenates due to its rationally designed structure that hampers recognition by most proteases. The rational approach we embraced in this study underscored the added value of substantiated claims in the design of new cosmeceutical ingredients, representing a rarity in the field.

The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside

A substantial reduction in the amount and quality of collagen leads to age-related deterioration of the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In recent years, multiple compounds have been developed aimed at reversing the molecular features of dermal aging. One such target for aging reversal is collagen degradation or turnover. SA1-III is a decapeptide (Ac-Met-Gly-Lys-Val-Val-Asn-Pro-Thr-Gln-Lys-NH₂), also known as KP1, formally derived from the C-terminal portion of serpin A1, an agent known as a physiological inhibitor of neutrophil elastase, and has been the subject of laboratory and clinical studies determining its effects on modulation of collagen turnover as well as the treatment of age-associated changes of the face. This review aims to provide a bio-inspired approach focusing on the latest scientific studies that describe the compound, as well as a comprehensive appraisal of laboratory and clinical tests on skincare formulations enriched with sA1-III.

Peptides and Peptidomimetics as Inhibitors of Enzymes Involved in Fibrillar Collagen Degradation

Collagen fibres degradation is a complex process involving a variety of enzymes. Fibrillar collagens, namely type I, II, and III, are the most widely spread collagens in human body, e.g., they are responsible for tissue fibrillar structure and skin elasticity. Nevertheless, the hyperactivity of fibrotic process and collagen accumulation results with joints, bone, heart, lungs, kidneys or liver fibroses. Per contra, dysfunctional collagen turnover and its increased degradation leads to wound healing disruption, skin photoaging, and loss of firmness and elasticity. In this review we described the main enzymes participating in collagen degradation pathway, paying particular attention to enzymes degrading fibrillar collagen. Therefore, collagenases (MMP-1, -8, and -13), elastases, and cathepsins, together with their peptide and peptidomimetic inhibitors, are reviewed. This information, related to the design and synthesis of new inhibitors based on peptide structure, can be relevant for future research in the fields of chemistry, biology, medicine, and cosmeceuticals.

Susceptibility of cosmeceutical peptides to proteases activity: Development of dermal stability test by LC-MS/MS analysis

Recently, several peptides are used as active ingredients in topical cosmetic formulations, few information are available on their dermal stability against proteases. In this study, it was developed a simple and reliable assay to evaluate the stability of cosmeceutical peptides in skin homogenates. The quantification of studied peptides was performed by liquid chromatography coupled with a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer operating in tandem mass spectrometry mode (LC-MS/MS) and the conditions were tuned through energy resolved MS/MS (ERMS) experiments. The sample preparation procedure was carried out on rat skin homogenates by employing pal-KTTKS (reference peptide and the parameters that may affect the assay results were evaluated, including substrate concentration, dilution of skin homogenate, protein concentration and batch-to-batch variation of the homogenate. The optimized conditions were applied to check the degradation profile of pal-KTTKS in human skin samples and the obtained results were compared. Finally, the degradation profiles of SA1-III and pamSA1-III, recently described as cosmeceutical peptides, in human skin homogenate were evaluated. The results showed that proposed peptides are stable toward proteases for up to 8 h of incubation. Thanks to this characteristic, these peptides can be considered very interesting candidates as active ingredients for creams intended for a daily application.

Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy

Among the many aspects that contribute to the wellness of each individual, healthy and younger-looking skin play a relevant role, as clearly shown by the important growth of the skin-care products market observed in recent years. In this scenario, the field of cosmeceuticals appears particularly promising, being based on cosmetic products containing active ingredients. Among these, several peptides were proposed for cosmeceutical applications, thanks to their specific interaction with biological targets. In this mini-review, we report some of the most investigated and used peptides for cosmetic formulations, taking into account that cosmeceutical peptides are basically divided into three main categories (i.e., neurotransmitter inhibitors, carriers, and signal peptides). Special attention was payed to the scientific studies supporting the claimed biological activity of these peptides, as a fundamental aspect that should underpin the growth of this field in the framework of a sustainable wellness economy.

Serpin A1 and the modulation of type I collagen turnover: Effect of the C-terminal peptide 409-418 (SA1-III) in human dermal fibroblasts

The pharmacological modulation of collagen turnover is a strategy potentially useful in different skin conditions. The serine protease inhibitor Serpin A1 and portions of its C-terminal region have been investigated as collagen modulators. To clarify the mechanisms by which the C-terminal 409-418 peptide SA1-III increases extracellular type I collagen levels, to compare its activities range with that of the originator molecule Serpin A1, and to evaluate its efficacy in primary cultures from adult and aged human subjects. The different forms of type I collagen were analyzed by means of western blot in cell lysates and cell-conditioned media of primary human dermal fibroblasts obtained from subjects of different ages. Gelatin zymography was used to investigate the degrading enzymes. Cell viability and in vitro wound healing tests were used to evaluate cell proliferation. The SA1-III peptide increased extracellular collagen levels by reducing degradation, with no effect on cellular biosynthesis or cell proliferation mechanisms. A reduced level of MMP-2 and MMP-9 was also found in cell media upon peptide treatment. No peptide effect was detected on inflammatory mediators gene expression in resting and LPS-stimulated fibroblasts, or in the wound healing test. The SA1-III peptide is a good collagen modulator candidate, protecting collagen against degradation without detectable actions on biosynthesis, acting at reasonably low concentrations, and non-interfering with cell proliferation. It is effective in primary fibroblasts from young and aged subjects. These effects can prove useful in pathological and physiological skin conditions in which collagen degradation is excessive compared to the synthetic capacity.