Development and characterization of solid lipid microparticles containing vitamin C for topical and cosmetic use

Neutral Oil-Incorporated Liposomal Nanocarrier for Increased Skin Delivery of Ascorbic Acid

In this study, a neutral oil-incorporated liposomal system (lipo-oil-some, LOS) was designed to improve the skin absorption of ascorbic acid (Vit C), and the effects of an edge activator and neutral oil on the skin absorption of Vit C were evaluated. As components of the LOS system, sodium deoxycholate, polysorbate 80, and cholesterol were screened as edge activators, and camellia oil, tricaprylin, and grapeseed oil were employed as neutral oils. The LOS systems prepared by the ethanol injection method were spherical in shape, 130-350 nm in size, and had 4-27% Vit C loading efficiency (%). In a skin absorption study using a Franz diffusion cell mounted with porcine skin, the LOS system prepared with sodium deoxycholate (10 w/w% of phospholipid) exhibited 1.2-and 2.9-fold higher absorption than those prepared with polysorbate 80 and cholesterol, respectively. Moreover, the type of neutral oil had a marked effect on the absorption of Vit C; the liposomal system containing camellia oil provided 1.3 to 1.8 times higher flux (45.4 μg/cm²∙h) than vesicles with tricaprylin or grapeseed oil, respectively. The optimized lipid nanocarrier is expected to be a promising tool for promoting the skin absorption of Vit C and improving its dermatological functions.

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50MHz ultrasound

Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant capable of acting significantly both in the prevention and treatment of the skin aging process. One way to assess the in vivo efficacy of anti-aging treatments is by using the high-frequency ultrasound (HFUS) skin image analysis technique, a non-invasive approach that allows for a new level of evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products. The aim of the present study was to assess the performance of a topical emulsion of liquid crystalline structures containing AA using the 50 MHz HFUS skin image analysis method. Twenty-five healthy female participants between 35 and 60 years old were included, all of whom randomly applied a placebo formulation and an AA-containing formulation to each forearm, once a day, for 30 days. HFUS measurements were performed before using the products (T0), two hours later (T2h), and after 30 days of use (T30d). The analyzed parameters included total skin, dermal, and epidermal echogenicity; variation and mean thickness of total skin, the epidermis and dermis; and surface roughness. Statistical analyses were performed using the Friedman test, followed by Dunn's test for comparisons of multiple means (α=0.05). A significant increase in total skin and dermal echogenicity was observed after topical AA application. Our findings suggest that collagen synthesis significantly increased after topical therapy with AA, which was responsible for the increment in dermal echogenicity. This study showed, through the HFUS technique, that the topical use of AA promoted dermal redensification after 30 days of application.

Microencapsulation by spray chilling in the food industry: Opportunities, challenges, and innovations

Background

The increasing demand for healthy eating habits and the emergence of the COVID-19 pandemic, which resulted in a health crisis and global economic slowdown, has led to the consumption of functional and practical foods. Bioactive ingredients can be an alternative for healthy food choices; however, most functional compounds are sensitive to the adverse conditions of processing and digestive tract, impairing its use in food matrices, and industrial-scale applications. Microencapsulation by spray chilling can be a viable alternative to reduce these barriers in food processing.

Scope and approach

This review discusses the use of spray chilling technique for microencapsulation of bioactive food ingredients. Although this technology is known in the pharmaceutical industry, it has been little exploited in the food sector. General aspects of spray chilling, the process parameters, advantages, and disadvantages are addressed. The feasibility and stability of encapsulated bioactive ingredients in food matrices and the bioavailability in vitro of solid lipid microparticles produced by spray chilling are also discussed.

Main findings and conclusions

Research on the microencapsulation of bioactive ingredients by spray chilling for use in foods has shown the effectiveness of this technique to encapsulate bioactive compounds for application in food matrices. Solid microparticles produced by spray chilling can improve the stability and bioavailability of bioactive ingredients. However, further studies are required, including the use of lipid-based encapsulating agents, process parameters, and novel formulations for application in food, beverages, and packaging, as well as in vivo studies to prove the effectiveness of the formulations.

Distribution of Drug Substances in Solid Lipid Microparticles (SLM)—Methods of Analysis and Interpretation

The incorporation of drug substances into the matrix of solid lipid microparticles (SLM) is critical to providing effects such as prolonged release, taste masking, and protection of the labile API. Currently, a commonly used method of characterizing multi-compartment lipid systems, such as SLM, is to determine entrapment efficiency (EE) and drug loading (DL) parameters, but this is not sufficient for understanding the localization of API either in the core or on the surface of the microspheres. The main objective of the research was to study the distribution of API in an aqueous dispersion of SLM in order to distinguish between the API incorporated in the lipid matrix and localized in the superficial region (interphase) and to refer the obtained results to the EE and DL parameters. SLM dispersions (10–30% of the lipid) with four model drug substances, i.e., cyclosporine, clotrimazole, diclofenac sodium and hydrocortisone, were prepared and investigated. In the first stage, the experiments were designed to optimize the method of extracting the API fraction localized on the SLM surface by shaking the dispersions with methanol. The fraction dissolved in the aqueous phase was obtained by ultrafiltration of SLM dispersions. Total drug content and the concentration in the separated phases were determined by the HPLC method. The obtained results were compared with the EE and DL parameters. Selected SLM dispersions were tested both before and after thermal sterilization. Short-term shaking of SLM dispersion with methanol does not damage the lipid matrix and allows the API fraction localized on the SLM surface to be extracted, the result of which was the determination of API distribution between lipid matrix, interphase and aqueous phase. It was found that the majority of API represented by EE value was localized on the surface of SLM. Only for cyclosporine was the incorporation of drug molecules in the lipid core very effective (up to 48%), while for other drug substances only 1–21% was found in the lipid core of SLM. A clear influence of the sterilization process on the distribution of API within the microparticles was found. The presented studies showed that the characterization of multi-compartment SLM dispersions solely on the basis of EE and DL values, is insufficient. The proposed new distribution test method enables the localization of API to be demonstrated within the microspheres, with the quantitative characteristics of the drug fraction incorporated in the lipid matrix and the fraction associated with the surface of the lipid matrix. The proposed new method allows the influence of the sterilization process on the changes in the API distribution within the lipospheres to be evaluated. Such characteristics provide new opportunities for the development and use of this dosage form as a carrier providing prolonged release and other aforementioned advantages.

Chemistry and Functionality of Cold-Pressed Macadamia Nut Oil

The rising trend in the consumption of healthy, safe, and functional foods has motivated studies on cold-pressed specialty oils, including macadamia nut oil. Cold-pressed macadamia nut oil (CPMO) is given preference by consumers over solvent extracted and refined oil because of its exceptional quality attributes and safety. This review contains a detailed presentation of the chemical properties, health benefits, and applications of CPMO. The monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid and palmitoleic acid) rich oil also contains a significant concentration of bioactive phytochemicals including, β-sitosterol, α-tocopherol, α-tocotrienols, ρ-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeic acid. Moreover, the oil has good oxidative stability. The highlighted properties offer CPMO health benefits related to the prevention of cardiovascular diseases, diabetes, cancer, high blood pressure, and neurodegenerative diseases. The fatty acid composition of CPMO allows for its diverse application in the food, cosmetic, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical industries.

Strategy to improve crude oil biodegradation in oligotrophic aquatic environments: W/O/W fertilized emulsions and hydrocarbonoclastic bacteria

We studied petroleum biodegradation by biostimulation by using water in oil in water (W/O/W) double emulsions. These emulsions were developed using seawater, canola oil, surfactants, and mineral salts as sources of NPK. The emulsions were used in the simulation of hydrocarbon bioremediation in oligotrophic sea water. Hydrocarbon biodegradation was evaluated by CO2 emissions from microcosms. We also evaluated the release of inorganic nutrients and the stability of the emulsion's droplets. The double emulsions improved CO2 emission from the microcosms, suggesting the increase in the hydrocarbon biodegradation. Mineral nutrients were gradually released from the emulsions supporting the hydrocarbon biodegradation. This was attributed to the formation of different diameters of droplets and therefore, varying stabilities of the droplets. Addition of the selected hydrocarbonoclastic isolates simulating bioaugmentation improved the hydrocarbon biodegradation. We conclude that the nutrient-rich W/O/W emulsion developed in this study is an effective biostimulation agent for bioremediation in oligotrophic aquatic environments.

Encapsulating plant ingredients for dermocosmetic application: an updated review of delivery systems and characterization techniques

Today, there is a rising demand and ongoing search for novel plant-derived phytochemicals in the cosmetic market owing to the growing consumer expectations worldwide for green and natural health products. Various plant ingredients, including polyphenols, oils, volatile oils, vitamins and other herbal extracts, have been extensively used in herbal cosmetics. Recent advances in encapsulation technologies have greatly improved their chemical stability, biocompatibility, skin permeability and dermocosmetic efficiency when applied topically. This comprehensive review summarizes the up-to-date information on encapsulated plant ingredients tailored for dermocosmetic application with a focus on the development of novel delivery systems. An overview of the commonly used techniques for carrier characterization, performance-related properties and toxicological evaluation is also included, which might provide guidance for researchers to select or develop appropriate assay systems.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Inclusion into Υ-Cyclodextrin and Mesoporous SBA-15: Preparation, Characterization and In Vitro Release Study

Ascorbic acid or vitamin C is a strong antioxidant widely used in cosmetic and food fields. This vitamin is very unstable and rapidly undergoes degradation. In order to solve this problem and to obtain a stable ascorbic acid, Nikkol Group has developed ascorbyltetraisopalmitate (VC-IP). This raw material is an oil phase, already well-known and employed in the cosmetic market. The objective of this study is to obtain VC-IP in micro-powder form, in order to produce a new raw material that is easily dispersible in oil and water phases and useful for make-up and color cosmetic applications. Various types of drug carriers were studied and considered in order to support VC-IP and obtain the conversion in powder. Υ-cyclodextrin and mesoporous silica SBA-15 were chosen as the best candidates. A white powder of supported VC-IP was obtained with each carrier (VC-IP@cyclodextrin, VC-IP@SBA-15). The systems underwent physicochemical characterization and in vitro release tests were carried out. Based on the conducted study, it can be concluded that by supporting VC-IP on Υ-cyclodextrin and SBA-15, it is feasible to obtain a new raw material in powder form. The two carriers possess different release profiles, adding the possibility to finely tune the release of the active component in smart formulations.