Exploring Chemical Variability in the Essential Oils of the Thymus Genus

Thyme remains an indispensable herb today, finding its place in gastronomy, medicine, cosmetics, and gardens worldwide. It is highly valued in herbal remedies and pharmaceutical formulations for its antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties derived from the richness of its essential oil, which comprises various volatile components. However, climate change poses a significant challenge today, potentially affecting the quality of thyme, particularly the extracted essential oil, along with other factors such as biotic influences and the plant's geographical distribution. Consequently, complex diversity in essential oil composition was observed, also influenced by genetic diversity within the same species, resulting in distinct chemotypes. Other factors contributing to this chemodiversity include the chosen agrotechnology and processing methods of thyme, the extraction of the essential oil, and storage conditions. In this review, we provide the latest findings on the factors contributing to the chemovariability of thyme essential oil.

Emerging Insights into the Applicability of Essential Oils in the Management of Acne Vulgaris

The occurrence of pustules, comedones, nodules, and cysts defines acne vulgaris, a prevalent chronic inflammatory dermatological condition. In the past few decades, essential oils extracted from varied natural sources have acquired recognition due to their potential medicinal applications in acne therapy. However, there is not yet sufficient medical data to fully characterize this interaction. Multiple factors contribute to the development of acne vulgaris, including excessive sebaceous production, inflammatory processes, hyperkeratinization, and infection with Cutibacterium acnes. Essential oils, including oregano, lavender, lemon grass, myrtle, lemon, thyme, eucalyptus, rosemary, and tea tree, have been found to possess anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties, which may target the multifactorial causes of acne. Analytical methods for determining antioxidant potential (i.e., total phenolic content, diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging assay, reducing power assay, ferrous ion chelating activity, thiobarbituric acid reactive species assay, β-carotene bleaching assay, etc.) are essential for the evaluation of these essential oils, and their method optimization is crucial. Further studies could include the development of novel acne treatments incorporating essential oils and an assessment of their efficacy in large clinical trials. In addition, further research is necessary to ascertain the mechanisms of action of essential oils and their optimal doses and safety profiles for optimal implementation in the management of acne vulgaris.

Stability Profile and Clinical Evaluation of an Innovative Hydrogel Containing Polymeric Micelles as Drug Delivery Systems with Oregano Essential Oil against Fibroepithelial Polyps

Skin tags, also known as fibroepithelial polyps (FPs) or acrochordons, are soft, pigmented excrescences, with a prevalence of 50-60% in the population, occurring especially in the fourth decade of life. To date, FPs have been efficiently eliminated using minimum invasive methods such as surgical removal, cauterization, laser irradiation, and cryosurgery. Over-the-counter treatments are also of interest for patients due to their non-invasive character, but their clinical efficiency has not been clearly demonstrated. This study was designed in order to evaluate the efficacy of a modern-pharmaceutical-formulation-type poloxamer-based binary hydrogel, having Origanum vulgare L. essential oil (OEO-PbH) as an active ingredient in the management of FPs. The formulation has been shown to possess good qualities in terms of stability and sterility. Non-invasive measurements revealed changes in some physiological skin parameters. An increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index was noted, while skin surface water content (SWC) decreased during eight weeks of treatment. The macroscopic evaluation revealed that the FPs dried and shrunk after topical treatment with OEO-PbH. Clinically, patients presented a lowering of the number of lesions on the treated area of 20-30% after one month of treatment and around 50% after the second month. Histopathological examination suggests that topical treatment with OEO-PbH may induce histological changes in the epidermis, dermis, and fibrovascular cores of FPs, including a loss of thickness, reduced size and number of blood vessels, and low cellularity. These changes may contribute to the observed reduction in size of FPs after treatment with OEO-PbH.

Expanding the Knowledge Related to Flavors and Fragrances by Means of Three-Dimensional Preparative Gas Chromatography and Molecular Spectroscopy

As universally known, gas chromatography (GC) coupled with mass spectrometry (MS) allows us to acquire spectra that can be searched in specific databases to attain qualitative information on a peak of interest. When not present in databases, structure elucidation is required before including a new component in a library: from that moment, scientists all around the world will be able to identify the new molecule with analytical confidence after GC-MS analysis. Conversely, if data are not shared in commercial databases, even if a molecule is studied and elucidated, it appears to be unknown or only identifiable on the basis of third-party data taken from the literature, which is a serious limitation. The present paper deals with a case that confirms this assumption. A component of Myrtus communis L. volatile fraction was tentatively identified based on literature data. Despite this, reliable identification could not be achieved due to the lack of a corresponding spectrum in commercial MS databases. Afterwards, the target component was isolated in a reasonable quantity and with a high degree of purity for downstream characterization by spectroscopic techniques. For this purpose, preparative (prep) GC may appear insufficient for the isolation of volatile components from highly complex samples. In this study, a prep-MDGC system was implemented for the isolation of the compound of interest from myrtle oil, consisting of three wide-bore columns of different selectivity coupled by means of Deans switch transfer devices. Based on the NMR and GC-FTIR data acquired, the unknown compound was identified as 2,2,5,5,7,7-hexamethyl-3,7-dihydro-1-benzofuran-4,6(2H,5H)-dione. Noticeably, this is a known molecule, yet its mass spectrum had never been registered into MS databases and thus was not available to the scientific community. Finally, the spectrum was included for the first time in a commercial library, namely the FFNSC 5.0 MS database. The aim of the present study was to highlight the opportunity to make analytical data quickly available in a reliable way by registering them in searchable MS databases to improve the identification means for researchers all over the world.

Chemical Characterization and Bioactivity of Commercial Essential Oils and Hydrolates Obtained from Portuguese Forest Logging and Thinning

Essential oils (EOs) and hydrolates (Hds) are natural sources of biologically active ingredients with broad applications in the cosmetic industry. In this study, nationally produced (mainland Portugal and Azores archipelago) EOs (11) and Hds (7) obtained from forest logging and thinning of Eucalyptus globulus, Pinus pinaster, Pinus pinea and Cryptomeria japonica, were chemically evaluated, and their bioactivity and sensorial properties were assessed. EOs and Hd volatiles (HdVs) were analyzed by GC-FID and GC-MS. 1,8-Cineole was dominant in E. globulus EOs and HdVs, and α- and β-pinene in P. pinaster EOs. Limonene and α-pinene led in P. pinea and C. japonica EOs, respectively. P. pinaster and C. japonica HVs were dominated by α-terpineol and terpinen-4-ol, respectively. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH, ORAC and ROS. C. japonica EO showed the highest antioxidant activity, whereas one of the E. globulus EOs showed the lowest. Antimicrobial activity results revealed different levels of efficacy for Eucalyptus and Pinus EOs while C. japonica EO showed no antimicrobial activity against the selected strains. The perception and applicability of emulsions with 0.5% of EOs were evaluated through an in vivo sensory study. C. japonica emulsion, which has a fresh and earthy odour, was chosen as the most pleasant fragrance (60%), followed by P. pinea emulsion (53%). In summary, some of the studied EOs and Hds showed antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and they are possible candidates to address the consumers demand for more sustainable and responsibly sourced ingredients.

Synergistic effects of carvacrol, α-terpinene, γ-terpinene, ρ-cymene and linalool against Gardnerella species

Bacterial vaginosis (BV) is the most common vaginal infection affecting women worldwide. This infection is characterized by the loss of the dominant Lactobacillus community in the vaginal microbiota and an increase of anaerobic bacteria, that leads to the formation of a polymicrobial biofilm, mostly composed of Gardnerella spp. Treatment of BV is normally performed using broad-spectrum antibiotics, such as metronidazole and clindamycin. However, the high levels of recurrence of infection after treatment cessation have led to a demand for new therapeutic alternatives. Thymbra capitata essential oils (EOs) are known to have a wide spectrum of biological properties, including antibacterial activity. Thus, herein, we characterized two EOs of T. capitata and tested their antimicrobial activity as well as some of their main components, aiming to assess possible synergistic effects. Our findings showed that carvacrol and ρ-cymene established a strong synergistic antimicrobial effect against planktonic cultures of Gardnerella spp. On biofilm, carvacrol and linalool at sub-MIC concentrations proved more efficient in eliminating biofilm cells, while showing no cytotoxicity observed in a reconstituted human vaginal epithelium. The antibiofilm potential of the EOs and compounds was highlighted by the fact cells were not able to recover culturability after exposure to fresh medium.

Botanic Garden as a Factory of Molecules: Myrtus communis L. subsp. communis as a Case Study

A novel perception of botanic gardens as complex “factories of molecules” (Lombardy Region Project–Lr. 25/2016, year 2021), that mediate plant–environment interactions, and are the basis of their utility for humans, is presented. The core-topic is the medicinal plant heritage of the Ghirardi Botanic Garden (Toscolano Maderno, Brescia, Italy) of the University of Milan. In this work, we studied Myrtus communis L. subsp. communis (Myrtaceae) at multiple scale levels: macro- and micromorphological, with special emphasis on the secretory structures responsible for the production of secondary metabolites; phytochemical, with the analysis of the essential oil (EO) composition from leaves (fresh, dried, stored at −20 °C and at −80 °C) and fruits over two consecutive years (2018 and 2019); bio-ecological, with a focus, based on literature data, on the ecology and biological activity of the main EO components. The occurrence of secretory cavities producing terpenes, along with flavonoids, was proven. A high level of chemical variability across the obtained EO profiles emerged, especially that concerning quantitative data. However, regardless of the different conservation procedures, the examined plant part, or the phenological stage, we detected the presence of three ubiquitous compounds: α-pinene, 1,8-cineole, and linalool. The overall results will serve to enrich the Ghirardi Botanic Garden with novel labeling showing accurate and updated scientific information in an Open science perspective.

Essential oils used in dermocosmetics: Review about its biological activities

INTRODUCTION

Currently, the demand for the use of constituents of natural origin in cosmetic formulations in detriment of synthetic compounds is noticeable. Several studies assess the potential of essential oils when incorporated into various cosmetic formulations and study their biological activities. This work intends to prepare a literature review on essential oils tested in dermocosmetic formulations and whose biological activities were evaluated through in vitro and/or in vivo tests. The main objectives for this study were as follows: to identify the essential oils that have been used in cosmetic formulations; and compile information on the main biological activities tested in cosmetic formulations.

METHODS

A search was carried out until 2021 in the scientific databases PubMed and Web of Science, using different search terms, and several scientific articles from in vitro and in vivo studies in animals and clinical trials were selected and analyzed of involving development dermocosmetic formulations containing essential oils and the analysis of their biological activities.

RESULTS

These studies demonstrate that the antimicrobial activity (antibacterial and antifungal) is the one most studied, mainly through in vitro tests. In vivo studies were also carried out either in animals or in clinical studies showing different effects, such as repellent action, inhibition of hair growth, and action against migraine. Regarding formulations, it was evident that creams are the most used.

CONCLUSIONS

There is enormous potential for the use of essential oils in future formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, in particular as preservatives, exploring their other biological activities.

Monfortinho Thermal Water-Based Creams: Effects on Skin Hydration, Psoriasis, and Eczema in Adults

The use of mineral water for therapeutic purposes has varied from century to century and from country to country. Its effectiveness depends on the individual experiences of the population and their cultural traditions. Usually, the waters recommended for dermatological treatment are hot springs that contain sulfur or more recently, silicon. The mechanisms by which mineral waters actuate in dermatological disorders are still not clear but it is believed that they involve thermal, mechanical, chemical, immunologic, and anti-oxidant reactions and enzymatic activity. The aim of this study is to characterize the thermal waters of Monfortinho, one of the oldest Portuguese spas, their potential use for the preparation of dermatological formulations (creams), and their effectiveness on the treatment of skin disorders (psoriasis and eczema). To accomplish this, cream formulations with different contents of thermal water were developed. The formulations were characterized in terms of thermal water analysis and physicochemical properties and their effects were studied by skin biometrics in adults (mean age of 54.3 years old) through skin hydration evaluation and evaluated in clinical studies on 22 patients with psoriasis and eczema. The results showed that all the formulations improved the skin hydration and have beneficial effects in relieving the symptoms of psoriasis and other disorders, but no significant differences were observed when thermal water was used (compared to laboratory ultra-pure water).