Chromatographic analyses and unambiguous identification of atranol‐like secondary metabolites in oakmoss absolute

Are atranols the only skin sensitizers in oakmoss? A systematic investigation using non-animal methods

Oakmoss and treemoss absolutes are the major natural extracts of concern as potential sources of skin sensitizers in cosmetics and personal care products (PCP). Two single constituents, atranol and chloroatranol, have been identified as primary culprits in both lichens, and industrial self-regulation has been proposed to limit their contents to less than 100 ppm. Nonetheless, evidence points to the presence of additional candidate skin sensitizers in these multicomponent extracts. These observations, along with a lack of data from non-animal alternative methods and the chemical variability of commercial absolutes, prompted further investigation of oakmoss absolute along with altranol-like compounds in these extracts. The major chemical constituents of a commercial sample were identified by two independent analytical techniques, GC-MS and HPLC-DAD-MS. The crude oakmoss extract and pure compounds were assayed with two in chemico methods (HTS-DCYA and DPRA) to gauge their chemical reactivity. Activation of inflammatory responses in vitro was also investigated by KeratinoSens™ and human cell line activation tests (h-CLAT). Based on weight of evidence, orcinol, ethyl orsellinate, and usnic acid were classified as candidate sensitizers, along with both atranols and oakmoss extract.