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Costa EF, Magalhães WV, Di Stasi LC. Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications. Molecules 2022; 27:7518. [PMID: 36364354 PMCID: PMC9658815 DOI: 10.3390/molecules27217518] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/17/2022] [Revised: 10/11/2022] [Accepted: 10/12/2022] [Indexed: 10/10/2023] Open
Abstract
Although aesthetic benefits are a desirable effect of the treatment of skin aging, it is also important in controlling several skin diseases, mainly in aged people. The development of new dermocosmetics has rapidly increased due to consumers' demand for non-invasive products with lower adverse effects than those currently available on the market. Natural compounds of plant origin and herbal-derived formulations have been popularized due to their various safe active products, which act through different mechanisms of action on several signaling pathways for skin aging. Based on this, the aim of the review was to identify the recent advances in herbal-derived product research, including herbal formulations and isolated compounds with skin anti-aging properties. The studies evaluated the biological effects of herbal-derived products in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies, highlighting the effects that were reported in clinical trials with available pharmacodynamics data that support their protective effects to treat, prevent, or control human skin aging. Thus, it was possible to identify that gallic and ferulic acids and herbal formulations containing Thymus vulgaris, Panax ginseng, Triticum aestivum, or Andrographis paniculata are the most promising natural products for the development of new dermocosmetics with skin anti-aging properties.
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Affiliation(s)
- Erika F. Costa
- Laboratory of Phytomedicines, Pharmacology, and Biotechnology (PhytoPharmaTech), Department of Biophysics and Pharmacology, Institute of Biosciences, São Paulo State University (UNESP), Botucatu 18618-689, SP, Brazil
| | - Wagner V. Magalhães
- Research and Development Department, Chemyunion Ltd., Sorocaba 18087-101, SP, Brazil
| | - Luiz C. Di Stasi
- Laboratory of Phytomedicines, Pharmacology, and Biotechnology (PhytoPharmaTech), Department of Biophysics and Pharmacology, Institute of Biosciences, São Paulo State University (UNESP), Botucatu 18618-689, SP, Brazil
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2
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Jiang Y, You S, Zhang Y, Zhao J, Wang D, Zhao D, Li M, Wang C. Enhancing Bioactive Components of Euryale ferox with Lactobacillus curvatus to Reduce H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Fibroblasts. Antioxidants (Basel) 2022; 11:antiox11101881. [PMID: 36290604 PMCID: PMC9598438 DOI: 10.3390/antiox11101881] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/16/2022] [Revised: 09/14/2022] [Accepted: 09/19/2022] [Indexed: 12/05/2022] Open
Abstract
This study investigated the effects of Lactobacillus curvatus fermentation on the oxidative stress attenuating effects of Euryale ferox on H2O2-induced human skin fibroblasts (HSF). The results showed that Lactobacillus curvatus fermentation (i) increases the content of the various bioactive components of Euryale ferox and is found to have smaller molecular weights of polysaccharides and polypeptides; (ii) increases the overall intracellular and extracellular antioxidant capacity of H2O2-induced HSF while reducing reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels. Superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), and catalase (CAT) all showed simultaneous increases in activity. Aside from that, the Nrf2 and MAPK signaling pathways are activated to regulate downstream-associated proteins such as the Bax/Bcl-2 protein ratio, matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) activity, and human type I collagen (COL-1). These results suggested that the fermentation of Euryale ferox with Lactobacillus curvatus enhances its antioxidant capacity and attenuates apoptosis and senescence caused by oxidative stress.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yanbing Jiang
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
| | - Shiquan You
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
| | - Yongtao Zhang
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
| | - Jingsha Zhao
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
| | - Dongdong Wang
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
| | - Dan Zhao
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
| | - Meng Li
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Correspondence: ; Tel.: +86-13426015179
| | - Changtao Wang
- Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
- Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100040, China
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3
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Chiu HF, Liao YR, Shen YC, Han YC, Golovinskaia O, Venkatakrishnan K, Hung CC, Wang CK. Improvement on blood pressure and skin using roselle drink: A clinical trial. J Food Biochem 2022; 46:e14287. [PMID: 35758855 DOI: 10.1111/jfbc.14287] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/04/2022] [Revised: 05/05/2022] [Accepted: 06/06/2022] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) is an increasingly attractive plant for its health and pharmaceutical, beverage, and cosmetic applications. The purpose of this study was to investigate the clinical effects of roselle drink on antioxidant activity, blood pressure, and skin condition. Roselle drink used in this study contained rich phenolics (1.96 g of gallic acid equivalent/100 ml) and anthocyanins (1.65 g of cyanidin-3-glucoside equivalent/100 ml). In a randomized, cross-over, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study, 39 healthy adults received drank 200 ml of roselle drink or placebo-control drink for 6 months. A significant reduction in the blood pressure was observed in the roselle drink treated group when compared with preintervention values. After 6 months of treatment with roselle drink, serum phenolics contents, the levels of Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC), glutathione, superoxide dismutase (SOD), glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase (G-6-PDH), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), and glutathione reductase (GSH-Rd) were significantly increased in healthy subjects. However, a significant increment in skin redness and skin moisture was observed in the facial skin of roselle drink-treated participants. Oral administration of roselle drink for 6 months significantly lowered the blood pressure, improved antioxidation level, and positively regulated skin redness as well as moisture. Phenolics and anthocyanins in roselle could be the major potential contributors to such health effects. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: Roselle is a typical plant. Continuous administration of roselle drink clearly improved antioxidation levels, reduced blood pressure and positively regulated skin redness and moisture. Phenloics and anthocyanins in roselle could be the major potentila contributors of such health benefits.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hui-Fang Chiu
- Department of Chinese Medicine, Taichung Hospital, Ministry of Health and Well-Being, Taichung, Taiwan
| | - Yi-Ru Liao
- Department of Nutrition, Chung Shan Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan
| | - You-Cheng Shen
- Department of Health Industry Technology Management, Chung Shan Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan
| | - Yi-Chin Han
- Department of Nutrition and Health Science, Fooyin University, Kaohsiung, Taiwan
| | | | | | | | - Chin-Kun Wang
- Department of Nutrition, Chung Shan Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan
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Park GK, Jang W, Kim BY, Oh K, Kim YA, Kwon HJ, Kim S, Park BJ. Chemical constituents from
Hibiscus hamabo
and their antiphotoaging effects on
UVA
‐induced
CCD
‐986sk. B KOREAN CHEM SOC 2022. [DOI: 10.1002/bkcs.12505] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/10/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Gwee Kyo Park
- Skin & Natural Products Laboratory Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd Seoul Republic of Korea
| | - Wookju Jang
- Skin & Natural Products Laboratory Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd Seoul Republic of Korea
| | - Bo Yun Kim
- Skin & Natural Products Laboratory Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd Seoul Republic of Korea
| | - Kyung‐Eon Oh
- Skin & Natural Products Laboratory Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd Seoul Republic of Korea
| | - You Ah. Kim
- Skin & Natural Products Laboratory Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd Seoul Republic of Korea
| | - Hyuk Joon Kwon
- Skin & Natural Products Laboratory Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd Seoul Republic of Korea
| | - Soo‐Young Kim
- National Institute of Biological Resources Ministry of Biological Resources Incheon Republic of Korea
| | - Byoung Jun Park
- Skin & Natural Products Laboratory Kolmar Korea Co., Ltd Seoul Republic of Korea
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Lin ET, Lee YC, Wang HMD, Chiu CY, Chang YK, Huang CY, Chang CC, Tsai PC, Chang JS. Efficient fucoidan extraction and purification from Sargassum cristaefolium and preclinical dermal biological activity assessments of the purified fucoidans. J Taiwan Inst Chem Eng 2022. [DOI: 10.1016/j.jtice.2022.104294] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/18/2022]
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Phenolic Compounds from Leaves and Flowers of Hibiscus roseus: Potential Skin Cosmetic Applications of an Under-Investigated Species. PLANTS 2021; 10:plants10030522. [PMID: 33802222 PMCID: PMC8000889 DOI: 10.3390/plants10030522] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/19/2021] [Revised: 03/06/2021] [Accepted: 03/08/2021] [Indexed: 12/15/2022]
Abstract
The use of plant extracts in skin-care cosmetics is a modern trend due to their richness in polyphenols that act as anti-aging molecules. Hibiscus roseus is a perennial species naturalized in Italy, with beautiful soft pink flowers; its phenolic composition and biological activities have not been studied yet. The aim of this study was to characterize and quantify the phenolics and to evaluate the antioxidant, sun protection factor (SPF), and anti-collagenase activities of the ethanolic extracts of H. roseus leaves (HL) and flowers (HF). p-Coumaric, chlorogenic, and trans-ferulic acids derivatives as well as quercetin and kaempferol flavonoids were the main phenolic compounds detected. Catechin, epicatechin, kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside, kaempferol-3-O-glucoside, kaempferol-7-O-glucoside, tiliroside, oenin, and peonidin-3-O-glucoside were detected only in HF, while phloridzin was exclusive from HL, which also showed greater amounts of hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives. HF was richer in flavonoids and total phenolics, also exhibiting greater antioxidant capacity. The SPF and anti-collagenase activity of both extracts were similar and comparable to those of synthetic standards. The overall results demonstrate that H. roseus extracts are promising sources of bioactive phenolic compounds that could be potentially applied as anti-aging agents in skin-care cosmetics.
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Transdermal Delivery Systems of Natural Products Applied to Skin Therapy and Care. Molecules 2020; 25:molecules25215051. [PMID: 33143260 PMCID: PMC7662758 DOI: 10.3390/molecules25215051] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/18/2020] [Revised: 10/23/2020] [Accepted: 10/24/2020] [Indexed: 12/15/2022] Open
Abstract
Natural products are favored because of their non-toxicity, low irritants, and market reacceptance. We collected examples, according to ancient wisdom, of natural products to be applied in transdermal delivery. A transdermal delivery system, including different types of agents, such as ointments, patches, and gels, has long been used for skin concerns. In recent years, many novel transdermal applications, such as nanoemulsions, liposomes, lipid nanoparticles, and microneedles, have been reported. Nanosized drug delivery systems are widely applied in natural product deliveries. Nanosized materials notably enhance bioavailability and solubility, and are reported to improve the transdermal permeation of many substances compared with conventional topical formulations. Natural products have been made into nanosized biomaterials in order to enhance the penetration effect. Before introducing the novel transdermal applications of natural products, we present traditional methods within this article. The descriptions of novel transdermal applications are classified into three parts: liposomes, emulsions, and lipid nanoparticles. Each section describes cases that are related to promising natural product transdermal use. Finally, we summarize the outcomes of various studies on novel transdermal agents applied to skin treatments.
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A Novel Oral Astaxanthin Nanoemulsion from Haematococcus pluvialis Induces Apoptosis in Lung Metastatic Melanoma. OXIDATIVE MEDICINE AND CELLULAR LONGEVITY 2020; 2020:2647670. [PMID: 32908627 PMCID: PMC7471791 DOI: 10.1155/2020/2647670] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/03/2020] [Accepted: 07/03/2020] [Indexed: 11/17/2022]
Abstract
Astaxanthin (AST) is a naturally occurring xanthophyll carotenoid having the potential to be used as an anticancer agent; however, the human body has a low bioavailability of AST due to its poor solubility in the water phase. Therefore, we applied D-α-tocopheryl polyethylene glycol succinate (TPGS) as an emulsifier and natural edible peanut oil to form a steady oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsion loaded with AST (denoted as TAP-nanoemulsion). TAP-nanoemulsions were stable without the droplet coalescence against thermal treatments (30-90°C), pH value changes (over a range of 2.0-8.0), and ionic strength adjustments (at NaCl concentrations of 100-500 mM) measured by dynamic light scattering (DLS). AST within TAP-nanoemulsion was released up to 80% in a simulated intestinal enzymatic fluid in vitro, and the overall recovery rate was fairly consistent in the Caco-2 cellular model. In order to further evaluate in vivo melanoma inhibitory experiments, we injected the fluorescent-stained B16F10 cells into female C57BL/6 mouse tail veins and treated TAP-nanoemulsion in an oral gavage. qRT-PCR and Western blot demonstrated that TAP-nanoemulsion triggered effectively the apoptosis pathway, including enhancements of cleaved caspase-3 and caspase-9, ataxia-telangiectasia mutated kinase (ATM), and p21WAF1/CIP1 (p21) and decreases of B-cell lymphoma 2 (Bcl-2); cyclins D, D1, and E; mitogen-activated protein kinase (MEK); extracellular signal-regulated kinases (ERK); nuclear factor κ-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NF-κB); and matrix metallopeptidase-1 and metallopeptidase-9 (MMP-1 and MMP-9) in both gene and protein expressions. In conclusion, this study suggests that TAP-nanoemulsion with the oral treatment has a positive chemotherapy effect in melanoma with lung metastases in vivo. As far as we know, this is the first time to demonstrate that an antioxidant in nanoparticle administration cures lung metastatic melanoma.
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