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Vilá B, Arzamendia Y. Weaving a vicuña shawl. PASTORALISM : RESEARCH, POLICY AND PRACTICE 2022; 12:46. [PMID: 36467430 PMCID: PMC9702962 DOI: 10.1186/s13570-022-00260-6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/18/2022] [Accepted: 10/15/2022] [Indexed: 06/17/2023]
Abstract
Vicuñas (Vicugna vicugna) were at risk of extinction due to indiscriminate hunting for their fibre in the mid-twentieth century. The conservation of the species included numerous international and regional legal mechanisms, as well as the will and care of local communities. The vicuña was saved, and now it is classified as "Least concern" by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Sustainable harvest of vicuña fibre is achieved by way of the chaku, capture and live-shearing (an ancient practice, now informed by modern knowledge of biology). Although most communities and cooperatives sell raw fibre, prices are falling. The making of artisanal vicuña garments has been identified as an activity that potentially leads to sustainable development in the Andean Altiplano. This paper analyses a key aspect to achieve this goal, a detailed description of the production (including economic and time costs) involved in weaving a shawl. The manual work has been recognized, with an hourly rate and costs calculated. The first action before starting any intervention was a ceremony, in which the family women infused the fibre with the smoke of a local plant, k'oa (Parastrephia spp.). The rituals and traditions are an important part of livelihoods in the Andes. The steps to creating the finished garment were fibre acquisition, dehairing and cleaning the fibre, spinning, twisting, loom weaving, finishing and fringing. The techniques for spinning and weaving are an essential part of the indigenous cultural heritage; no intervention or suggestion was made in that regard. The final cost of the garment was approximately 3,300 US dollars and half of this cost was the dehairing and cleaning of the fibre.
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Affiliation(s)
- Bibiana Vilá
- VICAM: Vicuñas, Camélidos y Ambiente, Luján, Argentina
- CONICET: Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas, Buenos Aires, Argentina
- Universidad Nacional de Luján, Departamento Ciencias Sociales, Luján, Argentina
| | - Yanina Arzamendia
- VICAM: Vicuñas, Camélidos y Ambiente, Luján, Argentina
- INECOA: Instituto de Ecorregiones Andinas, CONICET- UNJu: Universidad Nacional de Jujuy, San Salvador de Jujuy, Argentina
- Facultad de Ciencias Agrarias, Universidad Nacional de Jujuy (UNJu), San Salvador de Jujuy, Argentina
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Quispe E, Siguas O, Espinoza M, Arana W, Contreras J, Cassinello J, Bartolomé J. Group Structure in vicuña (Vicugna vicugna mensalis) Subject to chaku Management in Central Andes, Peru. Small Rumin Res 2022. [DOI: 10.1016/j.smallrumres.2022.106661] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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Vilá B, Arzamendia Y, Baldo J, Rojo V, Pirola M, Yacobaccio H. Commentary: Controversies and Common Ground in Wild and Domestic Fine Fiber Production in Argentina. FRONTIERS IN SUSTAINABLE FOOD SYSTEMS 2021. [DOI: 10.3389/fsufs.2021.695400] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/13/2022] Open
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Vilá B, Arzamendia Y. South American Camelids: their values and contributions to people. SUSTAINABILITY SCIENCE 2020; 17:707-724. [PMID: 33133295 PMCID: PMC7586864 DOI: 10.1007/s11625-020-00874-y] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/24/2020] [Accepted: 10/08/2020] [Indexed: 06/11/2023]
Abstract
South American Camelids (SACs) make several material and non-material contributions to people and are a key component of the Andean biocultural heritage. From the perspective of the IPBES' Conceptual Framework, SACs constitute the "nature" component in the complex system of interactions between human societies and the Andean mountain environment. There are four SAC living species today, two of which are wild, or Salqa, in the indigenous cosmovision: guanaco (Lama guanicoe) and vicuña (Vicugna vicugna). Llama (Lama glama) and alpaca (Vicugna pacos) were domesticated 5000 years ago, and are therefore Uywa, in the indigenous cosmovision. Both wild and domestic camelids were, and in several cases still are, the most highly appreciated resource for Andean livelihoods. Historically, camelids and their contributions have been used by Andean people since the peopling of the Americas over 11,000 years ago. In this paper, we present three case studies (chakus for vicuña management, llama caravans, and llama nanobodies) to bring attention to the essential role of vicuñas and llamas for Andean communities today, their intercultural linkages with the Western world, and telecoupling interactions.
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Affiliation(s)
- Bibiana Vilá
- National Research Council (CONICET) Argentina, Department of Social Sciences, National University of Lujan, Ruta 5 y 7 (6700) Lujan, Buenos Aires, Argentina
- VICAM: Vicuñas, Camelids and Environment, Luján, Buenos Aires Argentina
| | - Yanina Arzamendia
- VICAM: Vicuñas, Camelids and Environment, Luján, Buenos Aires Argentina
- Faculty of Agricultural Sciences, INECOA CONICET UNJU (Institute of Andean Ecoregions, National Research Council -National University of Jujuy), Alberdi 47, (4600) San Salvador de Jujuy, Jujuy, Argentina
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Arzamendia Y, Carbajo AE, Vilá B. Social group dynamics and composition of managed wild vicuñas (Vicugna vicugna vicugna) in Jujuy, Argentina. J ETHOL 2018. [DOI: 10.1007/s10164-018-0542-3] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/17/2022]
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Marcoppido G, Arzamendia Y, Vilá B. Physiological and behavioral indices of short-term stress in wild vicuñas (Vicugna vicugna) in Jujuy Province, Argentina. J APPL ANIM WELF SCI 2017; 21:244-255. [PMID: 29207883 DOI: 10.1080/10888705.2017.1403324] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/18/2022]
Abstract
The management of wild vicuñas can trigger a stress response that may compromise welfare. In Santa Catalina, Jujuy Province, Argentina, indices of short-term stress associated with capture, handling, and shearing were studied in 105 wild vicuñas (Vicugna vicugna). The study included 2 groups (n = 59 and n = 46) of wild vicuñas captured in 2 consecutive days. Independent variables analyzed included sex, restraint time, and groups. Cortisol, creatine kinase, glucose, white blood cells, temperature, heart rate, and respiratory frequency were higher than published values. Respiratory rate increased during handling and correlated with holding time and group size, while heart rate decreased. Packed cell volume was higher in females. Cortisol concentrations differed between restraint groups and sex and inversely correlated with agonistic behavior. The most common behavior was increased vigilance. Sternal recumbency increased over holding time. During handling procedures, frequency of sudden movements like kicking and attempts to stand increased as restraint time increased. Females vocalized more than males. In conclusion, the methods used triggered measurable changes suggestive of short-term stress that appeared to be physiologically tolerated by the vicuñas.
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Affiliation(s)
- Gisela Marcoppido
- a Pathobiology Institute (Instituto de Patobiologia), Research Centre for Veterinary and Agronomic Sciences (Centro de Investigaciones en Ciencias Veterinarias y Agronómicas (CICVyA)), National Institute of Agronomic and Livestock Technology (Instituto Nacional de Tecnologia Agropecuaria (INTA)) Castelar , Buenos Aires , Argentina.,b Vicuñas, Camelids, Environment (VICAM) (Vicuñas, Camélidos, Ambiente) , Buenos Aires , Argentina.,c National Research Council of Argentina (CONICET) (Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas) , Buenos Aires , Argentina
| | - Yanina Arzamendia
- b Vicuñas, Camelids, Environment (VICAM) (Vicuñas, Camélidos, Ambiente) , Buenos Aires , Argentina.,d Faculty of Agronomic Science (Facultad de Ciencias Agrarias ), Institute of Andean Eco-regions National University of Jujuy (Instituto de Ecorregiones Andinas (INECOA)) CONICET, National University of Jujuy (Universidad Nacional de Jujuy) , Jujuy , Argentina
| | - Bibiana Vilá
- b Vicuñas, Camelids, Environment (VICAM) (Vicuñas, Camélidos, Ambiente) , Buenos Aires , Argentina.,c National Research Council of Argentina (CONICET) (Consejo Nacional de Investigaciones Científicas y Técnicas) , Buenos Aires , Argentina.,e Departamento de Ciencias Sociales (Social Sciences Department), National University of Lujan (Universidad Nacional de Luján ), Buenos Aires , Argentina
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Anello M, Daverio MS, Romero SR, Rigalt F, Silbestro MB, Vidal-Rioja L, Di Rocco F. Genetic diversity and conservation status of managed vicuña (Vicugna vicugna) populations in Argentina. Genetica 2016; 144:85-97. [PMID: 26842726 DOI: 10.1007/s10709-015-9880-z] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/02/2014] [Accepted: 12/31/2015] [Indexed: 10/22/2022]
Abstract
The vicuña (Vicugna vicugna) was indiscriminately hunted for more than 400 years and, by the end of 1960s, it was seriously endangered. At that time, a captive breeding program was initiated in Argentina by the National Institute of Agricultural Technology (INTA) with the aim of preserving the species. Nowadays, vicuñas are managed in captivity and in the wild to obtain their valuable fiber. The current genetic status of Argentinean vicuña populations is virtually unknown. Using mitochondrial DNA and microsatellite markers, we assessed levels of genetic diversity of vicuña populations managed in the wild and compared it with a captive population from INTA. Furthermore, we examined levels of genetic structure and evidence for historical bottlenecks. Overall, all populations revealed high genetic variability with no signs of inbreeding. Levels of genetic diversity between captive and wild populations were not significantly different, although the captive population showed the lowest estimates of allelic richness, number of mitochondrial haplotypes, and haplotype diversity. Significant genetic differentiation at microsatellite markers was found between free-living populations from Jujuy and Catamarca provinces. Moreover, microsatellite data also revealed genetic structure within the Catamarca management area. Genetic signatures of past bottlenecks were detected in wild populations by the Garza Williamson test. Results from this study are discussed in relation to the conservation and management of the species.
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Affiliation(s)
- M Anello
- Laboratorio de Genética Molecular, Instituto Multidisciplinario de Biología Celular (IMBICE), CCT-CONICET-La Plata, CICPBA, Calle 526 e/10 y 11, PO Box 403, 1900, La Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina.
| | - M S Daverio
- Laboratorio de Genética Molecular, Instituto Multidisciplinario de Biología Celular (IMBICE), CCT-CONICET-La Plata, CICPBA, Calle 526 e/10 y 11, PO Box 403, 1900, La Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina
| | - S R Romero
- INTA-Estación Experimental Agropecuaria Abra Pampa, Ruta Provincial 11 km 17 (4640), Cochinoca, Abra Pampa, Jujuy, Argentina
| | - F Rigalt
- INTA-Estación Experimental Agropecuaria Catamarca, Ruta Provincial 33 km 4 (4705), Sumalao, Valle Viejo, Catamarca, Argentina
| | - M B Silbestro
- Laboratorio de Genética Molecular, Instituto Multidisciplinario de Biología Celular (IMBICE), CCT-CONICET-La Plata, CICPBA, Calle 526 e/10 y 11, PO Box 403, 1900, La Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina
| | - L Vidal-Rioja
- Laboratorio de Genética Molecular, Instituto Multidisciplinario de Biología Celular (IMBICE), CCT-CONICET-La Plata, CICPBA, Calle 526 e/10 y 11, PO Box 403, 1900, La Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina
| | - F Di Rocco
- Laboratorio de Genética Molecular, Instituto Multidisciplinario de Biología Celular (IMBICE), CCT-CONICET-La Plata, CICPBA, Calle 526 e/10 y 11, PO Box 403, 1900, La Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina.
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Effects of live-shearing on population parameters and movement in sedentary and migratory populations of guanacos Lama guanicoe. ORYX 2015. [DOI: 10.1017/s0030605314000027] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/07/2022] Open
Abstract
AbstractLive-shearing of wild guanacos Lama guanicoe may affect their reproductive success and population resilience, and therefore it is important to assess the biological sustainability of obtaining their wool. We evaluated effects of capture and shearing on survival and reproduction, population parameters, daily movements, ranging behaviour and spatial distribution in sedentary and migratory populations. We assessed population variables by radio-telemetry and line-transect surveys before and after capture. We estimated high post-shearing survival rates in both populations and similar yearling production in shorn and non-shorn females in the migratory population. We did not find significant variations in density and population structure before and after shearing in the sedentary population, whereas in the migratory population density decreased and the population structure changed significantly after assembly of the capture structure, returning to pre-assembly levels 1 month later. The mean daily distance moved by radio-collared guanacos during the first 2 days after shearing was three times longer than during the following 30 days. There was a 25% decrease in the mean home-range size of shorn guanacos between the first and second month after shearing but this decline appeared to be associated with a seasonal change in movement, because a similar reduction occurred during the same period the following year, when the guanacos were not shorn. Live-shearing modified the spatial distribution pattern in the sedentary population but did not have a significant effect on the migratory population. Management of guanacos may contribute towards developing a biologically sustainable economic activity that promotes conservation of wildlife and habitats.
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Northrup JM, Anderson CR, Wittemyer G. Effects of helicopter capture and handling on movement behavior of mule deer. J Wildl Manage 2014. [DOI: 10.1002/jwmg.705] [Citation(s) in RCA: 35] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/08/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Joseph M. Northrup
- Department of Fish; Wildlife; and Conservation Biology; Colorado State University; 1474 Campus Delivery Fort Collins CO 80523 USA
| | - Charles R. Anderson
- Mammals Research Section Colorado Parks and Wildlife; 711 Independence Avenue Grand Junction CO 81505 USA
| | - George Wittemyer
- Department of Fish; Wildlife; and Conservation Biology; Colorado State University; 1474 Campus Delivery Fort Collins CO 80523 USA
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Rey A, Novaro AJ, Sahores M, Guichón ML. Demographic effects of live shearing on a guanaco population. Small Rumin Res 2012. [DOI: 10.1016/j.smallrumres.2012.05.009] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/17/2022]
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