The effect of the amphiprotic nature of human hair keratin on the adsorption of high charge density cationic polyelectrolytes

Effects of surfactant adsorption on the wettability and friction of biomimetic surfaces

The properties of solid-liquid interfaces can be markedly altered by surfactant adsorption. Here, we use molecular dynamics (MD) simulations to study the adsorption of ionic surfactants at the interface between water and heterogeneous solid surfaces with randomly arranged hydrophilic and hydrophobic regions, which mimic the surface properties of human hair. We use the coarse-grained MARTINI model to describe both the hair surfaces and surfactant solutions. We consider negatively-charged virgin and bleached hair surface models with different grafting densities of neutral octadecyl and anionic sulfonate groups. The adsorption of cationic cetrimonium bromide (CTAB) and anionic sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) surfactants from water are studied above the critical micelle concentration. The simulated adsorption isotherms suggest that cationic surfactants adsorb to the surfaces via a two-stage process, initially forming monolayers and then bilayers at high concentrations, which is consistent with previous experiments. Anionic surfactants weakly adsorb via hydrophobic interactions, forming only monolayers on both virgin and medium bleached hair surfaces. We also conduct non-equilibrium molecular dynamics simulations, which show that applying cationic surfactant solutions to bleached hair successfully restores the low friction seen with virgin hair. Friction is controlled by the combined surface coverage of the grafted lipids and the adsorbed CTAB molecules. Treated surfaces containing monolayers and bilayers both show similar friction, since the latter are easily removed by compression and shear. Further wetting MD simulations show that bleached hair treated with CTAB increases the hydrophobicity to similar levels seen for virgin hair. Treated surfaces containing CTAB monolayers with the tailgroups pointing predominantly away from the surface are more hydrophobic than bilayers due to the electrostatic interactions between water molecules and the exposed cationic headgroups.

pH-equilibration of human hair: Kinetics and pH-dependence of the partition ratios for H − and OH -ions based on a Freundlich isotherm

Hair is an insoluble, fibrous, α-keratinous, protein composite material, providing outer coverage, e.g., for mammals. In the context of a wider study on the effects of pH on human hair properties, we investigated the time-dependence of pH-equilibration study across the acid and the basic pH-range, using appropriate pure solutions of hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide. The results show that pH-equilibration follows essentially equal 1^st-order kinetics across the pH-range. The characteristic process time does not change significantly and is in the range of 2.5-5 h. The analysis enables to determine the equilibrium uptakes of H⁺- and OH^- -ions. These follow the expected U-shaped path across the pH-range. For both acidic and alkaline conditions, data are well described by two very similar sorption isotherms of the Freundlich-type. In consequence, partition ratios for both ions are highest near neutrality (pH 7: >6000) and drop off strongly towards low and high pHs (<50). Hair is thus a very strong 'sink' for H⁺ and OH^-. This observation fundamentally challenges traditional views of limited ion uptake, namely, in the mid-pH-range due to hindered diffusion. It also does not support considerations on special roles of certain pHs, specific groups of amino acids, or morphological components. Our analysis thus suggests that established views of the interaction of hair and pH need to be reconsidered, The Freundlich isotherm approach appears to provide a versatile tool to refine our understanding of the interactions of hair and possibly other keratinous materials (horn, nail, feathers) with acids and bases.

Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis

Objective

Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined.

Methods

All experiments were carried out with a custom‐designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real‐time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants—sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)—commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations.

Results

The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium‐28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair.

Conclusion

We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds.

Newer guar gum ester/chicken feather keratin interact films for tissue engineering

This work intends to synthesis newer guar gum indole acetate ester and design film scaffolds based on protein-polysaccharide interactions for tissue engineering applications. Guar gum indole acetate(GGIA) was synthesized for the first time from guar gum in presence of aprotic solvent activated hofmeister ions. The newer biopolymer was fully characterized in FT-IR,¹³C NMR, XRD and TGA analysis. High DS (Degree of Substitution, DS = 0.61) GGIA was cross-linked with hydrolyzed keratin, extracted from chicken feather wastes. Films were synthesized from different biopolymer ratios and the surface chemistry appeared interesting. Physicochemical properties for GGIA-keratin association were notable. Fully bio-based films were non-cytotoxic and exhibited excellent biocompatibility for human dermal fibroblast cell cultivations. The film scaffold showed 63% porosity and the recorded tensile strength at break was 6.4 MPa. Furthermore, the standardised film exerted superior antimicrobial activity against both the Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. MICs were recorded at 130 μg/mL and 212 μg/mL for E. coli and S. aureus respectively. In summary, GGIA-keratin film scaffolds represented promising platforms for skin tissue engineering applications.

Novel amino acid-based surfactant for silicone emulsification and its application in hair care products: a promising alternative to quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants

OBJECTIVE

Quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants (ACSs) and N-[3-alkyl(12,14)oxy-2-hydroxypropyl]-l-arginine hydrochloride (N-AOHPA) were used to emulsify silicone. The potential of the resulting emulsions in hair conditioning products was investigated.

METHODS

The emulsions were prepared using a homogenizer and/or high-pressure homogenizer. ACSs and N-AOHPA were used as silicone emulsifiers. The stability of the emulsions was evaluated by measuring particle sizes, creaming fractions, polydispersity indexes and zeta potentials. Moreover, the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsion was compared with the ACS-stabilized emulsion to evaluate the adsorption amount of silicone on healthy and bleached hair surfaces and the inhibitory effects on amino acid dissolution from bleached hair. The adsorption site of the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsion was observed using a scanning electron microscope.

RESULTS

For all surfactants, the silicone emulsions prepared using the high-pressure homogenizer were more stable than those prepared using the homogenizer. When N-AOHPA was used as the surfactant, the silicone emulsion was especially stable. Furthermore, the d50 value of the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsion was smaller than that of the ACS-stabilized emulsion. The adsorption behaviour of the silicone droplets in the different emulsions varied depending on the nature of the surfactant and the preparation method. The amount of ACS-stabilized silicone adsorbed on healthy hair was higher than that adsorbed on bleached hair, especially when the emulsion was prepared using the homogenizer. In contrast, the amount of N-AOHPA-stabilized silicone adsorbed on bleached hair was high, and no differences were observed between the N-AOHPA-stabilized emulsions prepared using the homogenizer and high-pressure homogenizer. The emulsified droplets, especially the N-AOHPA-stabilized droplets prepared using the high-pressure homogenizer, prevented amino acid dissolution from bleached hair. It was concluded that the silicone droplet adsorption site affected the dissolution process because the small N-AOHPA-stabilized droplets adsorbed at cuticle edges.

CONCLUSION

This study shows that N-AOHPA has good potential for use as an emulsifier in products used for improving the condition of damaged hair.

Multilayered silicone oil droplets of narrow size distribution: preparation and improved deposition on hair

Silicone oil droplets have limited deposition on hair due to electrostatic repulsion with negative surface charge of hair substrates. Aiming to improve silicone deposition on hair substrates, surface properties of uniform-sized silicone oil droplets (produced by membrane emulsification) were modified using layer-by-layer electrostatic deposition. By using this method, silicone oil droplets were coated with large molecular weight polymers, i.e. quaternized chitosan and alginate, and low molecular weight compounds, i.e. diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and glycerol to obtain six alternate layers of different surface charges. It was found that the dispersion of coated silicone oil droplets of narrow size distribution exhibited much improved mechanical strength and increased viscosity against shear compared to uncoated droplets. These multilayered silicone oil droplets were then added into model shampoos and conditioners to study the effect of charge and molecular weight of coating materials on silicone oil deposition on hair. The results clearly demonstrated that surface charge and charge density have significant influence on silicone oil deposition. Droplets with higher positive charge density resulted in increased deposition of silicone on hair due to electrostatic attraction. Characterization of the hair surface potential, wetting properties and friction certified the results further, showing reduced friction, decreased wetting angle and positive surface potential of high density positively charged silicone oil droplets. Therefore, LBL surface modification combined with membrane emulsification is a promising method for preparing multilayered silicone oil droplets of increased mechanical strength, viscosity and deposition on hair.

Ecotoxicities of polyquaterniums and their associated polyelectrolyte-surfactant aggregates (PSA) to Gambusia holbrooki

The toxicity of 11 polyquaterniums used in cosmetic applications, and polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (poly(DADMAC)) were studied for toxicity of the polyquaternium alone, and of a polyquaternium/anionic surfactant complex as occurs in some cosmetic formulations. The surfactant used in the study was sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), which is used in cosmetic formulations under its International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) name Sodium Laurel Sulfate. In fish immobilization studies with Gambusia holbrooki, the EC(50) of the polyquaternium/surfactant complex was found to be the same as or similar to the EC(50) for the polyquaternium alone. The toxicity of the polyquaterniums investigated was similar to the published values for other cationic polyelectrolytes and cationic surfactants, in the range from < 1.0 to 10 mg/L, with the exception of low charge density cellulosic polyquaterniums. The anionic surfactant alone was not toxic to fish in the concentration range tested. Results thus showed the toxicity of the polyquaternium was not mitigated by the presence of the anionic surfactant.