[Environmentally induced (extrinsic) skin aging]

A retrospective study of non-insulated microneedle radiofrequency on wrinkles of facial photoaging subjects

Non-insulated microneedle radiofrequency (NIMNRF) is a method of promoting dermal collagen shrinking and remodeling with minor injury reducing wrinkles. We conducted a 3-years retrospective observation on wrinkles of facial photoaging subjects treated with NIMNRF in Chinese subjects to demonstrate the efficacy and side effects. Chinese subjects clinically diagnosed as facial photoaging treated with MNRF in the Laser Center of The First Hospital of China Medical University and Guangzhou Mylike Medical Cosmetic Hospital from Jan 1, 2018 to Dec 31, 2021 were enrolled in this study. Inclusion criteria included. Each subject was treated with NIMNRF for 1-3 sessions, with a 3-month interval. At baseline and 3 months after each treatment, a Wrinkle Assessment Scale (WAS) was used to score the wrinkles in 10 areas. The total WAS score and WAS improvement rate was assessed at each time point. A total of 96 subjects, aged 25-65 years old, received at least one session of NIMNRF were enrolled. 63, 24, 9 of them received 1, 2 or 3 sessions, respectively. The total WAS score decreased from 14.65 ± 9.20 to 11.51 ± 8.70 after Session 1, from 15.92 ± 9.48 to 12.17 ± 8.83 after Session 2 and from 17.56 ± 6.99 to 11.11 ± 7.13 after Session 3 (P < 0.01). The WAS improvement rate was 25.61%, 30.69% and 39.82% after 1, 2, 3 sessions, respectively. As for subjects in different age groups, the improvement rate decreased with age, from 39.13% in 25-30 years old group to 16.39% in over 60 years old group after Session 1 (P < 0.05). Better efficacy and less sessions of treatments were conducted in younger subjects. NIMNRF can be used in the treatment of facial wrinkles in photoaging subjects, especially in youngster as better efficacy.

Short-term effects of exposure to air pollution on biophysical parameters of skin in a panel of healthy adults

Little research on impact of air pollution on human skin is available. We aimed to clarify the association between acute exposure to criteria air pollutant with biophysical characteristics of the skin. We followed a panel of 20 volunteers free of any skin diseases in skin evaluation study in Tehran, Iran from April 2017 to April 2018. Two distinct body parts including middle forehead and inside the right upper arm were evaluated at six time periods. The associations of the weighted averages of personal exposure to air pollutants at 24 hours up to 6 days, and multiday average before the skin assessment with biophysical characteristics of normal skin including sebum content, hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema index, melanin index, pH, temperature, friction, and elasticity were assessed in a random intercept linear mixed effects modeling approach. We observed significant positive association for the arm sebum content with exposure to PM_2.5 , and SO₂ ; the arm and forehead TEWL with NO₂ , the arm and forehead friction with O₃ , and forehead hydration with PM_2.5 and PM₁₀ in early lags. We found significant negative association for the arm melanin index, elasticity, and erythema index with exposure to O₃ ; and forehead elasticity with PM_2.5 and PM₁₀ . Our results provided some evidence that short-term exposure to particulate and gaseous air pollutants have detrimental effects on biophysical and biomechanical properties of skin. The association varied across body area and depended on pollutant type.

[Topical treatment of pigmentation disorders with cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents]

BACKGROUND

Esthetically unattractive hyperpigmentation can occur post-inflammatory or as a result of genetic or hormonal influences, UV exposure or medication. Important parameters for the quality of topical treatments are evidence-based in vivo and in vitro efficacy as well as scientifically verified wanted and unwanted effects.

OBJECTIVES

This paper will present cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical ingredients against hyperpigmentation that have been proven in scientific studies.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A search of PubMed database was performed in October 2020 using the various ingredient names, "melasma" and "hyperpigmentation." Two reviewers independently screened titles, leading to the selection of 30 papers.

RESULTS

Hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, has been used for over 40 years to treat hyperpigmentation. It is the most commonly studied agent for lightening pigment. Despite the limited evidence-based research on novel treatment approaches, several ingredients did show efficacy as depigmenting agents, including tyrosinase inhibitors, substances that increase cell turnover, and plant derivatives.

CONCLUSIONS

Hydroquinone is still the gold standard for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, along with the triple therapy of hydrochinon, tretinoin, and steroids in different modifications. In summary, hyperpigmentation is best treated using a combination therapy of different approaches that includes consequent UV protection.

Additive effect of combined pollutants to UV induced skin OxInflammation damage. Evaluating the protective topical application of a cosmeceutical mixture formulation

Since the skin is one of the targets of the harmful effects of environmental insults, several studies have investigated the effects of outdoor stressors on cutaneous tissue. Ozone (O3), particulate matter (PM), and ultraviolet radiation (UV) have all been shown to induce skin damage through disruption of tissue redox homeostasis, resulting in the so called "OxInflammation" condition. However, few studies have explored whether these stressors can act synergistically in cutaneous tissues. In the present work, we evaluated whether O3, PM, and UV, which are the most common environmental skin insults, act synergistically in inducing skin damage, and whether this effect could be prevented through topical application of a cosmeceutical formulation mixture (CF Mix) containing 15% vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid), 1% vitamin E (α-tocopherol), and 0.5% ferulic acid. Human skin explants obtained from three different subjects were sequentially exposed to 200 mJ UV light, 0.25 ppm O3 for 2 h, and 30 min of diesel engine exhaust (DEE), alone or in combination for 4 days (time point D1 and D4). We observed a clear additive effect of O3 and DEE in combination with UV in increasing levels of several oxidative (4HNE, HO-1) and inflammatory (COX2, NF-κB) markers and loss of barrier-associated proteins, such as filaggrin and involucrin. Furthermore, daily topical pre-treatment with the CF Mix prevented upregulation of the inflammatory and oxidative markers and the loss of both involucrin and filaggrin. In conclusion, this study is the first to investigate the combined effects of three of the most harmful outdoor stressors on human skin and suggests that daily topical application may prevent pollution-induced skin damage.

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin - New perspectives and evaluation for claims support

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti-ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity-all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.