Changes in Bioactive Compounds, Antioxidant Activity and HMF Formation in Rosehip Nectars During Storage

Design and Characterization of an Ethosomal Gel Encapsulating Rosehip Extract

Rising environmental awareness drives green consumers to purchase sustainable cosmetics based on natural bioactive compounds. The aim of this study was to deliver Rosa canina L. extract as a botanical ingredient in an anti-aging gel using an eco-friendly approach. Rosehip extract was first characterized in terms of its antioxidant activity through a DPPH assay and ROS reduction test and then encapsulated in ethosomal vesicles with different percentages of ethanol. All formulations were characterized in terms of size, polydispersity, zeta potential, and entrapment efficiency. Release and skin penetration/permeation data were obtained through in vitro studies, and cell viability was assessed using an MTT assay on WS1 fibroblasts. Finally, ethosomes were incorporated in hyaluronic gels (1% or 2% w/v) to facilitate skin application, and rheological properties were studied. Rosehip extract (1 mg/mL) revealed a high antioxidant activity and was successfully encapsulated in ethosomes containing 30% ethanol, having small sizes (225.4 ± 7.0 nm), low polydispersity (0.26 ± 0.02), and good entrapment efficiency (93.41 ± 5.30%). This formulation incorporated in a hyaluronic gel 1% w/v showed an optimal pH for skin application (5.6 ± 0.2), good spreadability, and stability over 60 days at 4 °C. Considering sustainable ingredients and eco-friendly manufacturing technology, the ethosomal gel of rosehip extract could be an innovative and green anti-aging skincare product.

CO2 supercritical extraction and microencapsulation of oleoresins from rosehip fruits for getting powders with multiple applications

The supercritical fluids extraction (SFE) was used to extract the oleoresins from rosehip, followed by an in-depth phytochemical analysis and the development of two design-customized powders for different food and pharmaceutical applications. The SFE experiments allowed obtaining an oleoresins extraction yield of 11.85%. Two fractions were separated (S40 and S45), with significantly different phytochemical profile (p < 0.05), highlighting the efficiency of extraction of fatty acids in S40 extract, whereas the extraction of polyphenols, phytosterols, carotenoids and polyphenols was favored in S45 extract. The phytochemical profile revealed that the linoleic acid (C18:2) and α-linolenic acid (C18:3) represented approximatively 82% and 58% from the total fatty acid content in S40 and S45, respectively. α-Tocopherol and γ-tocopherol prevailed in both extract fractions, with a higher concentration in S45 (229.66 mg/g dry matter (DM) and 112.36 mg/g DM, respectively), whereas β-sitosterol was the major phytosterol in S45 fraction (118.75 mg/g DM). The S40 fraction was used to design two microencapsulated powders, by combining emulsification, complex coarcevation and freeze-drying. In order to develop new wall materials, with unique properties, the soy protein isolates were used for cross-linked reactions, by using an approach in one step (transglutaminase mediated) (coded as N) and two-steps (heat-induced and transglutaminase mediated) (coded as T). The N powder showed a better phytochemical content, leading to a higher antioxidant activity (5.27 mM Trolox equivalents/g DM), whereas for variant T, the bioactive were apparently doubled encapsulated.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Color stability and change in bioactive compounds of red beet juice concentrate stored at different temperatures

In the present study, effect of storage temperature (25°, 35° and 45 ^°C) and light (with/without aluminum foil) on betalain content, color stability and bioactive compounds of concentrated red beet juice were investigated. Degradation of betalains and change in total phenolics content followed first-order kinetics while changes of L*, a*, b* and C* values and antioxidant capacity fitted zero-order kinetic. It was determined that the reaction rate constants of betacyanin and betaxanthin degradations in red beet juice concentrates increased with increasing storage temperature and time. The activation energies for betaxanthin degradation (E_a: 92.04-93.27 kJ mol^-1) in comparison with the activation energies for betacyanin degradation (E_a: 66.07-66.13 kJ mol^-1) in all samples demonstrate that susceptibility to temperature of betaxanthin is higher than that of betacyanin. According to L* and a* parameters it can be suggested that color stability in red beet juice concentrate stored with aluminum foil found better than that in the sample without aluminum foil. However, there was no significant difference (p > 0.05) between samples with and without foil as regards changes in total phenolics, betalains and antioxidant capacity. In addition, 25 °C can be proposed for providing betalain stability of red beet juice concentrates during storage.

Application of multi pass high pressure homogenization to improve stability, physical and bioactive properties of rosehip (Rosa canina L.) nectar

The effect of high pressure homogenization (HPH) on physical and bioactive properties of rosehip nectar was investigated. Rosehip nectar has a sedimentation problem while waiting on the market shelf during the sale, for solving this problem, nectars were passed 1, 2 and 3 times through 75, 100 and 125 MPa pressures. Mean particle size decreased as pressure and pass number increased (p < 0.05), whereas zeta potential did not change (p > 0.05). Microstructural images revealed that HPH treatment disrupted the cells and caused to release of cell materials to serum. HPH treatment increased the ΔE values (from 2.48 to 6.03). HPH treated samples showed no sedimentation during storage for 15 days. All samples showed shear thinning behavior and were characterized as weak gel network (G' > G″). Total phenolic content and ascorbic acid results were decreased by HPH treatments due to increasing outlet temperatures of product, however, antioxidant capacity of nectars increased after treatment due to increasing total carotenoid content. This study indicated that HPH treatment could solve the sedimentation problem during shelf life with minimally affecting bioactive and physical properties of rosehip nectar.

Effect of storage time and temperature on the physicochemical and sensory characteristics of commercial apricot jam

Storage conditions are important factors for jam quality. The objective of this study was to monitor the physicochemical stability and sensorial profile of apricot jam during storage for 60 days at 5 °C, 25 °C and 37 °C. For that purpose, special attention was paid to total soluble solids (TSS), titratable acidity (TA), colour, free amino acids (FAA), total sugars (TS) and hydroxymethylfurfural (HMF). The decreasing parameter for jam at the end of storage under 5 °C, 25 °C and 37 °C, respectively, were 16.81%, 34.30% and 56.01% for FAA, and 5.52%, 9.02% and 7.46% for TS; likewise, the increasing were 19.81%, 22.94% and 25.07% for TA, 3.15%, 4.08% and 4.47% for TSS, 15.96%, 112.76% and 150% for HMF. Jam stability was better at 5 °C than 25 °C and 37 °C. The interaction time-temperature factor had significant effects on pH, TS, FAA and HMF, unlike TA, TSS and sensorial profile.