The Use of Cosmeceuticals in Acne: Help or Hoax?

Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy

Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.

Prevalence of Over-the-Counter Cosmeceutical Usage and the Impact of a Health Education Intervention in Female Saudi University Students

Background‎

The reckless use of over-‎the-‎counter (OTC) cosmeceuticals among females is alarming due to possible health hazards, ranging from allergy to fatal anaphylaxis and toxicity.

Methods‎

In the current study, we investigated the prevalence of cosmeceutical use among female students at Princess Nourah bint Abdulrahman University (PNU) and tested the effect of a pilot health education program in improving their knowledge. A cross-sectional questionnaire-based study was performed with 515 participants.

Results‎

A significantly higher percent (81%) of participants used OTC cosmeceuticals than did not use them. The selection of OTC ‎‎cosmeceuticals was not affected by socioeconomic ‎status, chronic illness, cosmeceutical cost, or possible cosmeceutical side effects. Students from non-health colleges demonstrated poorer knowledge scores for the hazards of cosmeceuticals, which directed our attention to the importance of health education in this field. Therefore, a pilot interventional health education program was conducted with 54 participants to compare their ‎‎knowledge before and after the‎ intervention. At the end of the program, a higher‎ percentage of participants had improved their knowledge and realized the need to ‎consult a physician before using ‎OTC ‎‎cosmeceuticals.

Conclusion

The health education program had a significant impact on knowledge ‎concerning the use of cosmeceuticals, and it is recommended that such programs be included in ‎undergraduate extracurricular activity, especially for female students.‎.

Advanced polymeric nanotechnology to augment therapeutic delivery and disease diagnosis

Therapeutic and diagnostic payloads are usually associated with properties that compromise their efficacy, such as poor aqueous solubility, short half-life, low bioavailability, nonspecific accumulation and diverse side effects. Nanotechnological solutions have emerged to circumvent some of these drawbacks, augmenting therapeutic and/or diagnostic outcomes. Nanotechnology has benefited from the rise in polymer science research for the development of novel nanosystems for therapeutic and diagnostic purposes. Polymers are a widely used class of biomaterials, with a considerable number of regulatory approvals for application in clinics. In addition to their versatility in production and functionalization, several synthetic and natural polymers demonstrate biocompatible properties that dictate their successful biological performance. This article highlights the physicochemical characteristics of a variety of natural and synthetic biocompatible polymers, as well as their role in the manufacture of nanotechnology-based systems, state-of-art applications in disease treatment and diagnosis, and current challenges in finding a way to clinics.

Menopausal Acne - Challenges And Solutions

Although acne is a disease predominant in adolescence, it is being increasingly observed in adult life, including the menopausal period. The etiology of menopausal acne is multifactorial, with hormonal imbalance being the major culprit. There is a relative increase of androgens in the menopausal female that leads to clinical hyperandrogenism manifesting as acne, hirsutism and androgenetic alopecia. Other endocrine disorders including thyroid abnormalities, hyperprolactinemia and insulin resistance also play a role. Genetics, stress, dietary changes, lack of sleep and exercise and other lifestyle changes are implicated as trigger factors. Most menopausal women with isolated few acne lesions have normoandrogenic serum levels and do not require extensive investigations. However, baseline investigations including total testosterone are useful. Patients must also be evaluated for associated comorbidities such as obesity, diabetes, hypertension and dyslipidemia. A detailed history can help to exclude polycystic ovarian syndrome, late-onset congenital adrenal hyperplasia or medications as a cause of acne. The evaluation of menopausal acne and the approach to treatment depend on the severity of acne and associated features. In patients with mild acne without virilization, prolonged topical therapy is the mainstay of treatment. Though combined oral contraceptives are effective, they are relatively contraindicated in the postmenopausal period. Spironolactone is the first choice of therapy in the subset of patients that require oral anti-androgen therapy. Procedural treatment can be useful as it can also help in the treatment of associated acne scars and concomitant skin aging. It is also important to focus on lifestyle changes such as reducing stress, controlling obesity, having a healthy diet, exercise and proper skin care routine to reduce acne. The focus of this article is on the clinical presentation and management challenges of menopausal acne, which represents a special subtype of acne.

The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative study

Background

Acne vulgaris is a common and chronic disease that impacts on physical and psychological perceptions. Cosmeceutical products are widely used as adjunct therapy to standard treatments.

Objective

To evaluate the efficacy of cosmeceutical products comprising glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A as adjunct therapy to adapalene in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris.

Materials and methods

A 28-day, double-blind, within-person comparative study was conducted with a total of 25 subjects. Each participant received two products, consisting of (1) a cosmeceutical product mixed with 0.1% adapalene, and (2) 0.1% adapalene, and was asked to apply them separately on each hemi-side once nightly for 28 days. The number of acne lesions, severity of acne vulgaris, physician’s and patient’s global assessment of acne severity, visual analog scale of radiance, skin biophysics, safety assessment, and VISIA^® camera system were evaluated. The primary efficacy outcome was to compare the reduction of inflammatory lesions between two treatments at day 7 by using non-inferiority comparison.

Results

The mean differences of inflammatory lesions reduction at day 7 between the two groups was 0.391 (90% CI = 0.253–0.530). The differences between two groups fell within our acceptable margin for the 90% CI. The spot score from VISIA^® showed higher statistically significant improvement in the combination side.

Conclusion

The results showed no hindrance of using a cosmeceutical combined with standard treatment. Nevertheless, this cosmeceutical product showed some benefits in reducing complications from acne.

Clinical trial registration

Thai Clinical Trials Registry (primary site), no. TCTR20171031005.

Adult female acne: a guide to clinical practice

BACKGROUND

Acne in women is often associated with anxiety and depression, and may persist from adolescence as well as manifest for the first time in adulthood. Genetic and hormonal factors contribute to its etiopathogenesis, and maintenance treatment is required, usually for years, due to its clinical evolution.

OBJECTIVE

To develop a guide for the clinical practice of adult female acne.

METHODS

A team of five experts with extensive experience in acne conducted a literature review of the main scientific evidence and met to discuss the best practices and personal experiences to develop a guide containing recommendations for the clinical practice of adult female acne.

RESULTS

The group of specialists reached consensus on the main guidelines for clinical practice, providing detailed recommendations on clinical picture, etiopathogenesis, laboratory investigation and treatment of adult female acne.

CONCLUSION

Different from teenage acne, adult female acne presents some characteristics and multiple etiopathogenic factors that make its management more complex. This guide provides recommendations for best clinical practices and therapeutic decisions. However, the authors consider that additional studies are needed in order to provide more evidence for adult female acne to be better understood.