Deuterium NMR investigation of polymorphism in stratum corneum lipids

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

The microstructure of the stratum corneum lipid barrier: mid-infrared spectroscopic studies of hydrated ceramide:palmitic acid:cholesterol model systems

The current mid-infrared spectroscopic study is a systematic investigation of hydrated stratum corneum lipid barrier model systems composed of an equimolar mixture of a ceramide, free palmitic acid and cholesterol. Four different ceramide molecules (CER NS, CER NP, CER NP-18:1, CER AS) were investigated with regard to their microstructure arrangement in a stratum corneum lipid barrier model system. Ceramide molecules were chosen from the sphingosine and phytosphingosine groups. The main differences in the used ceramide molecules result from their polar head group architecture as well as hydrocarbon chain properties. The mixing properties with cholesterol and palmitic acid are considered. This is feasible by using perdeuterated palmitic acid and proteated ceramides. Both molecules can be monitored separately, within the same experiment, using mid-infrared spectroscopy; no external label is necessary. At physiological relevant temperatures, between 30 and 35 degrees C, orthorhombic as well as hexagonal chain packing of the ceramide molecules is observed. The formation of these chain packings are extremely dependent on lipid hydration, with a decrease in ceramide hydration favouring the formation of orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing, as well as temperature. The presented data suggest in specific cases phase segregation in ceramide and palmitic acid rich phases. However, other ceramides like CER NP-18:1 show a rather high miscibility with palmitic acid and cholesterol. For all investigated ternary systems, more or less mixing of palmitic acid with cholesterol is observed. The investigated stratum corneum mixtures exhibit a rich polymorphism from crystalline domains with heterogeneous lipid composition to a "fluid" homogeneous phase. Thus, a single gel phase is not evident for the presented stratum corneum model systems. The study shows, that under skin physiological conditions (pH 5.5, hydrated, 30-35 degrees C) ternary systems composed of an equimolar ratio of ceramides, free palmitic acid and cholesterol may form gel-like domains delimitated by a liquid-crystalline phase boundary. The presented results support the microstructural arrangement of the stratum corneum lipids as suggested by the domain mosaic model.

Phase behavior of an equimolar mixture of N-palmitoyl-D-erythro-sphingosine, cholesterol, and palmitic acid, a mixture with optimized hydrophobic matching

The phase behavior and lipid mixing properties of an equimolar mixture of nonhydroxylated palmitoyl ceramide (Cer16), palmitic acid (PA), and cholesterol have been investigated using 2H NMR and vibrational spectroscopy. This mixture is formed by the three main classes of lipids found in the stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of the epidermis, and provides an optimized hydrophobic matching. Therefore, its behavior highlights the role played by hydrophobic matching on the phase behavior of SC lipids. We found that, below 45 degrees C, the mixture is essentially formed of coexisting crystalline domains with a small fraction of lipids (less than 20%) that forms a gel or fluid phase, likely ensuring cohesion between the solid domains. Upon heating, there is the formation of a liquid ordered phase mainly composed of PA and cholesterol, including a small fraction of Cer16. This finding is particularly highlighted by correlation vibrational microspectroscopy that indicates that domains enriched in cholesterol and PA include more disordered Cer16 than those found in the Cer16-rich domains. Solubilization of Cer16 in the fluid phase occurs progressively upon further heating, and this leads to the formation of a nonlamellar self-assembly where the motions are isotropic on the NMR time scale. It is found that the miscibility of Cer16 with cholesterol and PA is more limited than the one previously observed for ceramide III extracted from bovine brain, which is heterogeneous in chain composition and includes, in addition to Cer16, analogous ceramide with longer alkyl chains that are not hydrophobically matched with cholesterol and PA. Therefore, it is inferred that, in SC, the chain heterogeneity is a stronger criteria for lipid miscibility than chain hydrophobic matching.

Properties of ceramides and their impact on the stratum corneum structure. Part 2: stratum corneum lipid model systems

The stratum corneum (SC) represents the outermost layer of the mammalian skin, exhibits the main skin barrier and plays an important role in the water penetration pathway through the SC. Knowing the structure and properties of the SC at the molecular level is essential for studying drug penetration through the SC and for the development of new dermal drug delivery systems. Therefore, research interest is focused on the SC lipid matrix and on water diffusion through it. Thus, the ultimate aim is to design a lipid mixture that mimics the barrier properties of the human SC to a high extent and that can substitute the SC in drug delivery systems. This review summarizes various studies performed on either isolated animal or human ceramide based SC model systems, coming to the result that using synthetic lipids with a well-defined architecture allows good extrapolation to the in vivo situation. This review is the continuation of part 1 that is focused on a detailed description of the thermotropic and/or lyotropic phase behaviour of single ceramide types obtained by various experimental techniques. The objective of part 2 is to reflect the numerous studies on SC lipid model systems, namely binary, ternary and multicomponent systems, during the last decade. In this context, neutron diffraction as a prospective tool for analyzing the internal membrane structure is addressed in particular. Based on these new insights, current SC models are presented, whose validations are still under discussion. A profound knowledge about SC lipid organization at the molecular level is still missing.

Stratum corneum hydration: phase transformations and mobility in stratum corneum, extracted lipids and isolated corneocytes

The outermost layer of skin, stratum corneum (SC), functions as the major barrier to diffusion. SC has the architecture of dead keratin filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. This work presents a detailed study of the hydration process in extracted SC lipids, isolated corneocytes and intact SC. Using isothermal sorption microcalorimetry and relaxation and wideline (1)H NMR, we study these systems at varying degrees of hydration/relative humidities (RH) at 25 degrees C. The basic findings are (i) there is a substantial swelling both of SC lipids, the corneocytes and the intact SC at high RH. At low RHs corneocytes take up more water than SC lipids do, while at high RHs swelling of SC lipids is more pronounced than that of corneocytes. (ii) Lipids in a fluid state are present in both extracted SC lipids and in the intact SC. (iii) The fraction of fluid lipids is lower at 1.4% water content than at 15% but remains virtually constant as the water content is further increased. (iv) Three exothermic phase transitions are detected in the SC lipids at RH=91-94%, and we speculate that the lipid re-organization is responsible for the hydration-induced variations in SC permeability. (v) The hydration causes swelling in the corneocytes, while it does not affect the mobility of solid components (keratin filaments).

Fatty acids influence "solid" phase formation in models of stratum corneum intercellular membranes

Stacked intercellular lipid membranes in the uppermost epidermal layer, the stratum corneum (SC), are responsible for skin's barrier function. These membranes are unique in composition, the major lipids being ceramides (Cer), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFA) in approximately equimolar proportions. Notably, SC lipids include chains much longer than those of most biological membranes. Previously we showed that Cer's small hydrophilic headgroup enabled SC model membranes composed of bovine brain ceramide (BBCer), cholesterol, and palmitic acid in equimolar proportion to solidify at pH 5.2. In order to determine the influence of FFA chain length on the phase behavior of such membranes, we used 2H NMR and FT-IR to study BBCer/cholesterol/FFA dispersions containing linear saturated FFA 14-22 carbons long. Independent of chain length, the solid phase dominated the FFA spectrum at physiological temperature. Upon heating, each dispersion underwent phase transitions to a liquid crystalline phase (only weakly evident for the membrane containing FFA-C22) and then to an isotropic phase. The phase behavior, the lipid mixing properties, and the transition temperatures are shown to depend strongly on FFA chain length. A distribution of FFA chain lengths is found in the SC and could be required for the coexistence of a proportion of solid lipids with some more fluid domains, which is known to be necessary for normal skin barrier function.

Role of ceramide structure and its microenvironment on the conformational order of model stratum corneum lipids mixtures: an approach by FTIR spectroscopy

The aim of this study is to investigate the influence of ceramide head group architecture and free fatty acid (another main class of stratum corneum lipids) or protein (keratin), on the lamellar organization of the ceramide auto-associated in model films mimicking lipid organization within the stratum corneum. FTIR spectroscopy is a powerful technique for investigating the structure of such systems. This technique has already been used to characterize phase transitions of the SC and of related model systems. As temperature is known to modify the conformational order of lipids, we used it as a variable parameter to monitor the differences in the conformational stability of ceramides. Our study included four ceramides: ceramide 2, 3, 5 and 6 which differ by their head group architecture. Two kinds of lipid-lipid interactions were studied: non-polar and polar. We noted some structural factors which participated to the organizational behavior: insaturation of alkyl chain, alpha-hydroxyl on fatty acid moiety and sphingosine or phytosphingosine head group. There is a direct interaction of palmitic acid on alkyl chains organization and a weak interaction with polar head group in presence of keratin, both provoking a destabilization of the ceramidic orthorhombic organization.

Study of human stratum corneum and extracted lipids by thermomicroscopy and DSC

A study on the thermal behavior of human stratum corneum and lipids is described. The use of high scanning rate DSC for both SC and extracted lipids allows the consistent determination of transition temperatures, including those of lower energy. Changes are found both at physiological and higher temperatures. There is a clear correspondence between the thermotropic behavior of these two systems. However, one of the transitions found in human SC (approximately 55 degrees C) is absent in extracted lipids and may be ascribed to those covalently-linked to corneocytes. Lipidic thermotropic behavior is clearly found above 100 degrees C, in which proteins do not play an exclusive role. Changes related to most transitions are observed directly by polarized light thermal microscopy in extracted lipids. This technique also allowed for the observation of large segregated domains in the extracted lipids. A drastic change is observed at approximately 60 degrees C, corresponding to the disruption of the lamellar structure.

Structural organisation and phase behaviour of a stratum corneum lipid analogue: ceramide 3A

The thermotropic phase behaviour and structural organisation of ceramide N-linoeoyl-phytosphingosine (ceramide 3A) is investigated by means of differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). Its polymorphism and structural properties are compared with two ceramides of the type III class with various hydrocarbon chain saturation degrees. After hydration the main phase transition temperature of ceramide 3A is found at 76 degrees C with a phase transition enthalpy of +29 kJ mol(-1). Analysing the frequency of methylene stretching vibrations (by infrared spectroscopy) reveals that the fluidity (amount of trans-gauche isomers) is strongly increased for ceramide 3A compared to its stearoyl ceramide type III analogue. After lipid hydration, the acyl chains of all investigated phytosphingosine ceramides of type III adopt a hexagonal-like chain packing. The amide I and amide II vibrations are quite sensitive to the phase transition of the ceramide. The corresponding band analysis reveals strong inter- and intramolecular hydrogen bonds between the amide and hydroxyl groups in the ceramide head groups. The H-bonding network and conformation of the head group of ceramide 3A is only slightly influenced by hydration. The water penetration capacity of ceramide 3A is, however, considerably larger compared to other phytosphingosine derivatives. The structural and organisational properties of ceramides of type III class are discussed with respect to their physiological relevancies for the stratum corneum lipid barrier property of the skin.

Effect of L-menthol and 1,8-cineole on phase behavior and molecular organization of SC lipids and skin permeation of zidovudine

The aim of this investigation was to study the effect of 1,8-cineole and L-menthol on phase behavior and molecular organization of Stratum corneum (SC) lipids and permeation of zidovudine (AZT) across human cadaver skin (HCS). Permeation studies were conducted across HCS using Franz diffusion cells at 37 degrees C. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) were employed to understand the effect of terpenes on phase behavior and molecular organization of a model SC lipid system consisting of an equimolar mixture of ceramide, palmitic acid and cholesterol. Both 1,8-cineole and L-menthol applied at 5% w/v in 66.6% ethanol as a vehicle significantly enhanced the pseudosteady state flux of AZT across HCS. The vehicle reduced the number of endothermic transitions observed in the DSC thermogram of a hydrated model SC lipid system from three to two with a lowered midtransition temperature (Tm), while the inclusion of terpenes resulted in a single but very broad endothermic transition for the model SC lipid system. Correspondingly, ATR-FTIR studies revealed that both 1,8-cineole and L-menthol increased CH2 stretching frequencies on either side of lipid transition in addition to lowering the Tm of model SC lipid system by approximately 2-8 degrees C. The alterations observed in the amide-I frequencies of model SC lipid system after the inclusion of terpenes suggest that they disrupt the interlamellar hydrogen-bonding network at the polar head group region. Further, terpenes also increased the hydration levels of the lipid system probably by forming new aqueous channels. These results indicate that terpenes enhance transdermal permeation of AZT and other drugs by transforming SC lipids from a highly ordered orthorhombic perpendicular subcellular packing to a less ordered hexagonal subcell packing.

Influence of different ceramides on the structure of in vitro model lipid systems of the stratum corneum lipid matrix

Human stratum corneum (SC) consists of several layers of keratinized corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure which is considered to constitute the major barrier to percutaneous penetration. Artificial mixtures of SC lipids are often used as model systems to mimic the skin barrier or to investigate the effects of substances on the phase behaviour of the models. In the present study a SC lipid model composed of cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides was used to investigate the effect of three different commercially available ceramide types on the microstructure and the physicochemical behaviour of the lipids. Polarized light microscopy, transmission electron microscopy, small-angle X-ray diffraction, wide-angle X-ray diffraction and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used for physicochemical characterization. The results revealed a lamellar structure for all models but showed differences with regard to the thermal and optical behaviour depending obviously on the composition of the ceramide mixtures. A model containing a mixture of Cer[AS] was comparable to human SC lipids.

Direct observation of domains in model stratum corneum lipid mixtures by Raman microspectroscopy

Several studies on intact and model stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of the epidermis, have suggested the presence of crystalline domains. In the present work, we used micro-Raman mapping to detect lipid domains in model lipid mixtures formed by an equimolar mixture of ceramides, cholesterol, and palmitic acid, the three main lipid species of SC. We were able to determine the spatial distribution of the three compounds individually based on the systematic analysis of band areas. As a control, we studied freeze-dried lipid mixtures, and the Raman microspectroscopy reported faithfully the homogeneous distribution of the three compounds. Spectral mapping was then performed on hydrated equimolar mixtures carefully annealed. In this case, clear phase separations were observed. Domains enriched in cholesterol, ceramides, or palmitic acid with a size of a few tens of square microns were detected. These findings constitute the first direct evidence of the formation of heterogeneous domains in the SC lipid models in a bulk phase. Raman microspectroscopy is an innovative approach to characterize the conditions leading to the formation of domains and provides new insights into the understanding of the skin barrier.

Promoting mechanism of menthol derivative, 1-O-ethyl-3-buthylcyclohexanol, on the percutaneous absorption of ketoprofen

Menthol derivatives were synthesized and evaluated for their promoting activity on the percutaneous absorption of ketoprofen and skin irritation in vivo, choosing O-ethylmenthol (MET) as the mother compound. The compound having a C-3 positionned n-butyl group (1-O-ethyl-3-n-buthylcyclohexanol, OEBC) indicated the most promoting activity and caused relatively little skin irritation. In order to understand enhancement mechanism of OEBC an in vitro permeation study of ketoprofen was performed. The time course of the cumulative amounts of drug permeated through the rat skin exhibited a linear relation after an initial lag time. This was analyzed in membrane diffusion model and the diffusion and partition parameters of ketoprofen were estimated. Both parameters were remarkably enhanced when a hydrogel containing a small quantity of OEBC (0.5%) was applied. Furthermore, to clarify the site of action of OEBC, we also investigated in vitro permeation study of ketoprofen employing different skins of state, reversed skin and stratum corneum stripped skin. When OEBC was added to the hydrogels which were applied to the reversed and stripped skins, almost no changes of the flux were observed compared with the control (without OEBC). These results suggested that the site of action of OEBC was stratum corneum. Morphological changes of the stratum corneum surface were microscopically observed with 0-2% OEBC. The spaces between the stratum corneum cells treated with 0.5-2% OEBC became extended and the shape of each cell became clear. This may suggest that the site of action of OEBC was the intercellular of stratum corneum. Furthermore, an electron spin resonance study was performed to investigate the effect of OEBC on the intercellular lipid bilayer fluidity of the stratum corneum and the rotational correlation times were calculated. 2,2,6,6-Tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPO) and 4-hydroxy-2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPOL) were used as the spin label. In use of OEBC, the fluidity of TEMPO labeled the stratum corneum lipid increased as the addition of OEBC. The results suggested that OEBC promote the penetration of drugs by enhancing fluidity of the local lipid bilayers around TEMPO.

The use of FT-IR for quantitative studies of the apparent pKa of lipid carboxyl groups and the dehydration degree of the phosphate group of phospholipids

Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) has been applied to the quantitative study of the dehydration of the phosphatidylserine phosphate group in the presence of Ca2+ exerted by different molecules, such as diacylglycerol, sphingosine and stearylarnine, by using a partial least-squares statistical procedure. By using this method it was observed that diacylglycerol enhanced the dehydration of this PO2- group produced by Ca2+ whereas the amino-bases sphingosine and stearylamine protected the phosphate group from the dehydration produced by Ca2+ due to the very strong electrostatic interaction established. The apparent pKa of lipid carboxyl groups can also be estimated by using FTIR. The method consisted in quantifying the absorbance intensities due to the protonated and the unprotonated forms of the specific group being studied. The pKa of the carboxyl group of [1-13C]-palmitic acid included in dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine membranes was found to be 8.7, a value much higher than that estimated from a molecular solution of the fatty acid. It was observed using the same method that the pKa of free fatty acids in model stratum corneum lipid mixtures was in the range 6.2-7.3 increasing with the preponderance of oleic acid over palmitic acid. Finally the pKa of the carboxyl group of phosphatidylserine was shifted from 4.6 in the pure phospholipid to 2.1 and 2.2 in the presence of equimolar sphingosine and stearylamine, respectively, as a consequence of electrostatic interactions.

Phase coexistence in cholesterol-fatty acid mixtures and the effect of the penetration enhancer Azone

Small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction was used to study the phase behaviour of cholesterol-fatty acid mixtures in an attempt to understand lipid interaction occurring in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin. The effect of the penetration enhancer Azone was investigated as well. It was found that equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, palmitic acid and oleic acid (with the acids neutralised to 41 mol%) in 25% (wt/wt) water typically showed three phases at room temperature, two crystalline and one gel phase. The crystalline phases consisted mainly of palmitic acid:soap and cholesterol, respectively. The water present was unevenly distributed and was associated with the gel phase. Both cholesterol and palmitic acid seemed to be depleted from their crystalline phases by Azone. The electrostatic effects on titration of fatty acids in lamellar aggregates were calculated in view of the present results, and the effects of phase separation were discussed.

Intermolecular Interaction between a Synthetic Pseudoceramide and a Sterol-Combined Fatty Acid

To better understand the phase behavior of a pseudoceramide (SLE), a potential skin moisturizer and/or a drug carrier, we investigated the lipid-lipid interaction between SLE and a sterol-combined fatty acid (CEOS), which has a sterol ring and a carboxyl group in a molecule. X-ray analysis showed that a hexagonal packing (4.15 A spacing) and a liquid-like packing (4.5 A spacing) coexisted within the hydrocarbon chains of the SLE/CEOS (1/1 mole) lipid mixture. The structural characteristics were very similar to those of the SLE/stearic acid/cholesterol (1/1/1 mole) system, which was in a stable lamellar alpha-phase. However, in the SLE/stearic acid (1/1 mole) system, there was only a strong hexagonal reflection in the wide-angle X-ray profile. The melting enthalpy (23.9 kJ mol-1) and entropy (75.0 J mol-1 K-1) of the SLE/CEOS system were also smaller than those (DeltaHm = 43.9 kJ mol-1, DeltaSm = 131.6 J mol-1 K-1) of the SLE/stearic acid system. The X-ray data along with the DSC results suggested that the sterol ring of CEOS molecule contributed to the enhancement of molecular motion or the decrease in the molecular packing of lipids. A strong hydrogen bond between the carboxyl group of CEOS and the amide group of SLE molecule was also considered to be important for the formation of the stable alpha-phase, as suggested by FT-IR spectroscopy. Further, in the presence of water, the three artificial SC lipids, SLE/CEOS (1/1 mole), SLE/stearic acid/cholesterol (1/1/1 mole), and SLE/stearic acid (1/1 mole), were all capable of forming lamellar structures. Copyright 1997 Academic Press. Copyright 1997Academic Press

Lipid domains and orthorhombic phases in model stratum corneum: evidence from Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy studies

A three component model for the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum (SC) consisting of ceramide III, cholesterol, and perdeuterated palmitic acid, has been characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. At physiological temperature the CD2 scissoring mode of the palmitic acid methylenes, and the CH2 rocking mode of the ceramide methylenes, are each split into two components. This indicates that both components exist in separate, conformationally ordered phases, probably with orthorhombic perpendicular subcells. The magnitude of the splitting indicates that the domains are at least 100 chains in size. The thermotropic behavior of the CD2 stretching vibrations demonstrates that conformational disordering of the palmitic acid commences at 42 degrees C with a transition midpoint of 50 degrees C. The CH2 stretching frequency indicates the ceramide chains remain ordered until 50 degrees C then disorder with a midpoint of 67 degrees C. The results provide a molecular characterization for the complex low temperature (10-40 degrees C) dynamic behavior suggested by recent 2H NMR experiments.

2H and 13C nuclear magnetic resonance study of N-palmitoylgalactosylsphingosine (cerebroside)/cholesterol bilayers

13C- and 2H-NMR experiments were used to examine the phase behavior and dynamic structures of N-palmitoylgalactosylsphingosine (NPGS) (cerebroside) and cholesterol (CHOL) in binary mixtures. 13C spectra of 13C=O-labeled and 2H spectra of [7,7-2H2] chain-labeled NPGS as well as 3 alpha-2H1 CHOL indicate that cerebroside and CHOL are immiscible in binary mixtures at temperatures less than 40 degrees C. In contrast, at 40 degrees C < t < or = T(C) (NPGS), up to 50 mol% CHOL can be incorporated into melted cerebroside bilayers. In addition, 13C and 2H spectra of melted NPGS/CHOL bilayers show a temperature and cholesterol concentration dependence. An analysis of spectra obtained from the melted 13C=O NPGS bilayer phase suggests that the planar NH-C=O group assumes an orientation tilted 40 degrees-55 degrees down from the bilayer interface. The similarity between the orientation of the amide group relative to the bilayer interface in melted bilayers and in the crystal structure of cerebroside suggests that the overall crystallographic conformation of cerebroside is preserved to a large degree in hydrated bilayers. Variation of temperature from 73 degrees to 86 degrees C and CHOL concentration from 0 to 51 mol% results in small changes in this general orientation of the amide group. 2H spectra of chain-labeled NPGS and labeled CHOL in NPGS/CHOL bilayer demonstrate that molecular exchange between the gel and liquid-gel (LG) phases is slow on the 2H time scale, and this facilitates the simulation of the two component 2H spectra of [7,7-2H2]NPGS/CHOL mixtures. Simulation parameters are used to quantitate the fractions of gel and LG cerebroside. The quadrupole splitting of [7,7-2H2]NPGS/CHOL mixtures and 2H simulations allows the LG phase bilayer fraction to be characterized as an equimolar mixture of cerebroside and CHOL.

Structural organisation and lipid composition of the epicuticular accessory layer of infective larvae of Trichinella spiralis

The epicuticle of infective larvae of Trichinella spiralis represents the interface between this intracellular nematode parasite and the cytosol of mammalian skeletal muscle. The macromolecular structures that make up the epicuticle were studied by freeze-fracture electron microscopy and compositional analysis. Three fracture planes were observed: one with a typical plasma membrane-type bilayer organisation which was overlaid by two extended layers of lipid in an inverted cylindrical configuration. This overall structure remained unchanged in response to variations in temperature between 20 degrees C and 45 degrees C. The lipid cylinders were on average 6.8 nm in diameter, with randomly-associated particles that were not dissociated by high-salt treatment, indicative of hydrophobically associated proteins. The majority of the lipids were non-polar, consisting of cholesterol, cholesterol esters, mono- and tri-glycerides, and free fatty acids. Three major classes of phospholipids were identified: phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylglycerol and phosphatidylcholine. Total lipid extracts did not adopt an inverted cylindrical or micellar configuration on isolation, but formed flat sheets of lamellae as did the purified polar and non-polar fractions of the lipids. Isolated lipids did not undergo thermally-induced polymorphism between 20 degrees C and 60 degrees C and there was no pH dependency of the structures adopted. The fatty acid saturation levels of the phospholipids were compatible with the observation that they did not form polymorphic structures on isolation. We suggest that this unusual configuration is probably stabilised by the associated (glyco)proteins and may be required for selective permeation of nutrients from the host cell cytosol and/or for maintaining the high curvature of the parasite within the cell.

Apparent pKa of the fatty acids within ordered mixtures of model human stratum corneum lipids

PURPOSE

The apparent pKa of the fatty acids within hydrated (30% w/w) model human stratum corneum (SC) lipid mixtures should be measured.

METHODS

The degree of ionisation of the fatty acids was calculated as a function of pH using Fourier transform infra-red spectroscopy. The relative intensity of the stretching bands of the unionized and ionized carboxylic groups was determined and fitted to the relevant expression for ionic equilibrium of a monoprotic acid. The pKa was then calculated for increasing proportion of unsaturated fatty acid in the lipid mixture.

RESULTS

Values for pKa in the range 6.2-7.3 were found, increasing with greater proportion of oleic acid. These are some 1.5-3 pH units higher than the pKas of fatty acids in molecular solution.

CONCLUSIONS

As there exists a pH-gradient across the SC, the degree of ionisation will also vary. In the innermost SC layers, a pH of 7 will produce 90% ionization of the fatty acids and head-group repulsion will be great. At the SC surface, the pH of 5 will cause almost minimal head-group repulsion, tending to increase crystallinity and promote a bilayer structure.

A mechanistic study of the effects of the 1-alkyl-2-pyrrolidones on bilayer permeability of stratum corneum lipid liposomes: a comparison with hairless mouse skin studies

The influence of a series of 1-alkyl-2-pyrrolidones (C2-C8) on the transport behavior of lipophilic and polar/ionic permeants across hairless mouse skin was recently investigated by employing a physical model approach that treats the stratum corneum barrier as a diffusional system of parallel lipoidal and pore pathways. In this previous study, the transport enhancement effects (enhancement factor, EHMS) on the lipoidal pathway of the stratum corneum were found to be essentially the same for all steroidal probe permeants investigated at various concentrations of these 1-alkyl-2-pyrrolidones. In the present research, the relationship between solute transport enhancement in the lipoidal pathway of hairless mouse skin and the transport enhancement in the stratum corneum lipid liposome bilayer was studied by comparing the enhancement factor for the lipoidal pathway in the hairless mouse skin, EHMS, with that for the stratum corneum lipid liposome, ESCLL, at equal solution concentrations of the 1-alkyl-2-pyrrolidones. The release rates of D-mannitol, D-glucose, 3-O-methyl-D-glucose, sucrose, and raffinose from stratum corneum lipid liposomes were determined, and the ESCLL values for these permeants were compared with the EHMS values obtained with hairless mouse skin using the steroidal permeants. An important finding in this study was a semiquantitative correlation between the enhancement effects induced by the 1-alkyl-2-pyrrolidones, except 1-ethyl-2-pyrrolidone, with the liposome bilayer using sugar molecules as permeants and those found with the lipoidal pathway in hairless mouse skin using steroid molecules as permeants.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Thermotropic behavior of stratum corneum lipids containing a pseudo-ceramide

The mechanism of the self-assembly of the lamellar structure of natural stratum corneum lipids (SCL) has been a subject of considerable interest. We have examined this question by using a synthetic pseudo-ceramide (sphingolipid E, SLE) which was analogous to the naturally occurring ceramide type 2. The thermotropic properties and the structural characteristics of SLE, together with other main components of SCL, fatty acids, and cholesterol, were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray analysis. A mixture of SLE and stearic acid was in a stable alpha-form having a lamellar structure, which is very similar to that of natural SCL. However, lipid mixtures in which stearic acid were replaced by oleic acid did not form lamellar structures, and existed in the crystalline states. This indicates that the stable bilayer formation of the natural SCL is strongly dependent on the molecular fatty acid structure. Moreover, incorporation of cholesterol (0-50%) into equimolar mixtures of SLE/stearic acid and of SLE/oleic acid caused a marked decrease of melting entropies, while the aggregation states of both systems were not changed. This effect of cholesterol can be attributed to the disorder of the molecular packing. These results suggest that the hydrophobic interactions between the SCL are important for bilayer formation as are the hydrophilic interactions between the polar groups.

Phase properties of mixtures of ceramides

Ceramides have been proposed to have a central role in the function of the stratum corneum. Ceramides also influence the phase properties of model skin lipid mixtures, but the relevance of this to the stratum corneum function is controversial. Because the stratum corneum contains several classes of ceramides, the type of ceramides used in model mixtures of stratum corneum lipid lamellae may be important. Thus, the properties of alpha-hydroxy fatty acid containing (HFAC) and nonhydroxy fatty acid containing (NFAC) ceramides and their mixtures have been investigated. Ceramides were obtained by the conversion of purified bovine brain cerebrosides. Isolated, anhydrous HFAC underwent an endothermic solid to liquid transition at 92 degrees C. With hydration, an endothermic transition at 71.8 degrees C was observed which was accompanied by a reduction in the birefringence. The enthalpy increased from 66 to 89 J/g with a 20-d storage time. These thermal properties are very similar to those observed with hydroxy fatty acid containing cerebrosides. In contrast, anhydrous nonhydroxy fatty acid containing ceramides underwent a broad endothermic transition over the temperature range of 50-90 degrees C. When hydrated, the initial endothermic transition was interrupted by an exothermic transition that was followed immediately by a second endothermic transition. During these thermal changes, there was a loss of birefringence, and with completion of the second endothermic transition, a nonbirefringent liquid was observed.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Models of stratum corneum intercellular membranes: 2H NMR of macroscopically oriented multilayers

Deuterium NMR was used to characterize model membrane systems approximating the composition of the intercellular lipid lamellae of mammalian stratum corneum (SC). The SC models, equimolar mixtures of ceramide:cholesterol:palmitic acid (CER:CHOL:PA) at pH 5.2, were contrasted with the sphingomyelin:CHOL:PA (SPM:CHOL:PA) system, where the SPM differs from the CER only in the presence of a phosphocholine headgroup. The lipids were prepared both as oriented samples and as multilamellar dispersions, and contained either perdeuterated palmitic acid (PA-d31) or [2,2,3,4,6-2H5]CHOL (CHOL-d5). SPM:CHOL:PA-d31 formed liquid-ordered membranes over a wide range of temperatures, with a maximum order parameter of approximately 0.4 at 50 degrees C for positions C3-C10 (the plateau region). The quadrupolar splitting at C2 was significantly smaller, suggesting an orientational change at this position, possibly because of hydrogen bonding with water and/or other surface components. A comparison of the longitudinal relaxation times obtained at theta = 0 degrees and 90 degrees (where theta is the angle between the normal to the glass plates and the magnetic field) revealed a significant T1Z anisotropy for all positions. In contrast to the behavior observed with the SPM system, lipid mixtures containing CER exhibited a complex polymorphism. Between 20 and 50 degrees C, a significant portion of the entire membrane (as monitored by both PA-d31 and CHOL-d5) was found to exist as a solid phase, with the remainder either a gel or liquid-ordered phase. The proportion of solid decreased as the temperature was increased and disappeared entirely above 50 degrees C. Between 50 and 70 degrees C, the membrane underwent a liquid-ordered to isotropic phase transition. These transitions were reversible but displayed considerable hysteresis, especially the conversion from a fluid phase to solid. The order profiles, relaxation behavior, and angular dependence of these parameters suggest strongly that both the liquid-ordered CER- and SPM-membranes are bilayers. The unusual phase behavior observed for the CER-system, particularly the observation of solid-phase lipid at physiological temperatures, may provide insight into the functioning of the permeability barrier of stratum corneum.

Characterization of low-temperature (i.e., < 65 degrees C) lipid transitions in human stratum corneum

This study aims to characterize human stratum corneum (SC), focusing on those lipid transitions that occur at or below physiologically relevant temperatures. In the past, a lipid transition near 35 degrees C had been thought to be variable and a consequence of superficial sebaceous lipid contamination. However, analysis here indicates that it is widely present, and cannot be attributed to sebum production. We demonstrate that this transition represents a solid-to-fluid phase change for a discrete subset of SC lipids. The reversibility of this transition upon reheating, and its absence in extracted lipid samples imply that these lipids are not uniformly present throughout the SC, but would appear to be differentially distributed in response to terminal differentiation. Further, such an arrangement could involve a close association with other nonlipid (e.g., protein) components. Evidence for a new transition at approximately 55 degrees C is presented that suggests the loss of crystalline orthorhombic lattice structure. The existence of orthorhombic structure at physiologic temperature is reasoned to involve ceramides and/or free fatty acids. Localization of these lipids at the level of the corneocyte envelope supports a comprehensive picture of water transport across the SC, whereby diffusion occurs primarily via the intercellular lipids. This view, coupled with the hydration-induced changes in lipid disorder observed here provides additional insight into the mechanism by which skin occlusion increases permeability. Summarily, these results i) emphasize the inherent danger of over-interpreting experiments with isolated SC lipids, ii) emphasize the potential advantage(s) of employing several biophysical techniques to study SC structure, and iii) indicate that a full characterization of lipid phase behavior is requisite to our eventual understanding of SC structure and permeability function, particularly those phase transitions that occur near or at normal skin temperature.

Polymorphism in stratum corneum lipids

Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) was employed to investigate the thermotropic phase behavior of stratum corneum lipid multilamellae. Stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of mammalian skin, is unusual in many respects. It has been demonstrated that the lipids of the stratum corneum provide the primary electrical and transport resistance in the skin. These lipids are unusual in their composition, structure and localization; they contain only cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides and they form broad, multi-lamellar sheets which are located extracellularly. The FTIR results from both the symmetric CH2 stretching and the CH2 scissoring vibrations suggest that the SC lipids exhibit polymorphic phase behavior below the main phase transition temperature. The multiple phases are most likely crystalline mixtures of different alkyl chain packings, along with solid-liquid phases. Similarities between the FTIR results reported here for SC lipids and those obtained for cholesterol-containing gel phase phospholipids suggest that the non-uniform distribution of cholesterol occurs in each system.

Diffusivity and structural polymorphism in some model stratum corneum lipid systems

Mixtures of model stratum corneum lipids were prepared in water from cholesterol, six fatty acids and ceramides. The influence of composition on the polymorphism of these mixtures and also on the diffusivity of a model drug within them, Dlip, was determined. The former was obtained from X-ray diffraction and Fourier transform infrared spectrometry, and the latter from a diffusional release model. An L beta structure was formed for the composition approximating that of the extracellular lipids in intact human abdominal stratum corneum. Dlip was independent of water content in the range 20-40% w/w, with the bilayers showing one dimensional swelling without lateral expansion. Although removal of the ceramides did not result in a significant alteration in Dlip, crystalline cholesterol now appeared. The ceramides were, therefore, necessary for solubilization within the fatty acid bilayers of the large proportion of cholesterol present in the lipid fraction of intact SC. They were also responsible for a thermal L alpha-HII transition observed at approx. 68 degrees. At the concentration in which it exists in intact SC, cholesterol also had only a minimal effect on Dlip, but was necessary to suppress HII phase formation within the fatty acids and ensure an L beta structure. All lipid mixtures that had an L beta structure presented a diffusional barrier approx. 1 order of magnitude greater than that of an unstructured, isotropic lipid mixture. HII structures formed at cholesterol/fatty acid proportions less than approx 8:92 mol% and appeared more permeable than L beta ones. All the results indicate that the diffusional barrier within the model lipid mixtures is guaranteed essentially by the presence of an L beta phase. Although the ceramides and cholesterol exert no intrinsic influence on the magnitude of Dlip, their presence in necessary for the existence of an L beta phase at 33 degrees that is free of both crystalline cholesterol and HII character.

Models of stratum corneum intercellular membranes: the sphingolipid headgroup is a determinant of phase behavior in mixed lipid dispersions

During formation of the intercellular membranes of mammalian stratum corneum, sphingomyelin and glucosylceramide are converted enzymatically to ceramide. To model in isolation the possible effect of such a lipid modification on the phase behavior of the ensemble, we used proton and deuterium nuclear magnetic resonance to compare an equimolar dispersion of bovine brain sphingomyelin, cholesterol, and perdeuterated palmitic acid (at pH 6.2), with an equivalent dispersion in which bovine brain ceramide was substituted for sphingomyelin. While the sphingomyelin dispersions remain in a homogeneous fluid lamellar phase from 20-75 degrees C under these conditions, those containing ceramide display complex polymorphism.

Lamellar structures formed by stratum corneum lipids in vitro: a deuterium nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) study

Hydrated lipid mixtures consisting of stratum corneum ceramides, cholesterol, specifically deuterated palmitic acid, and cholesteryl sulfate were investigated by solid-state 2H NMR spectroscopy at different temperatures. The mole ratio of cholesterol to ceramides was varied from 1 to 0. 2H NMR spectra from these mixtures showed powder patterns with quadrupolar splittings smaller than those obtained from control mixtures containing dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) instead of the ceramides. This result is attributed to the rigid amide group of the ceramides, with a planar configuration, which could prevent close packing of the alpha-methylenes of the acyl chains. There was a gradual loss of symmetry in the powder pattern as the amount of cholesterol was decreased and the amount of ceramides (or DPPC) was increased concomitantly. The loss was more pronounced in the ceramide-containing samples. This phenomenon is interpreted as a decrease in the axial reorientation rate of the alpha-deuterated palmitic acid in the bilayers, presumably caused by the increased hydrogen bonding resulting from the high amount of hydroxyl-bearing ceramides. Spectra obtained at temperatures above 60 degrees C indicated the formation of a hexagonal phase (HII) by the ceramide-containing mixtures. Spectra of the omega-deuterated palmitic acid in the mixture containing 76 mol% ceramides and no cholesterol indicated phase separation into a more rigid phase and a more mobile phase in the temperature range of 25 to 60 degrees C. The bilayer configuration of lipids at 25 degrees C was confirmed by thin-section electron microscopy.