Ascorbic acid reduces tropoelastin levels in culture medium of chick skin fibroblasts

Multicenter evaluation of a topical antioxidant serum

BACKGROUND

A new antioxidant serum has been formulated with sodium ascorbate, a sodium salt of Vit C, which aims to address facial photodamage while maintaining a low irritation profile and preserving elastin. Detailed background science has been submitted in a previous publication. This open-label study was conducted to validate the science by demonstrating product efficacy and tolerability in patients with moderate to severe facial photodamage.

METHODS

A multicenter, open-label clinical study was undertaken over 5 months from March 2023 to July 2023. Thirty six eligible participants (35 female, 1 male), aged 38-69 years, and Fitzpatrick skin types II-V were enrolled into and completed the study following 12 weeks of the topical antioxidant serum use twice daily, along with the following supporting products (gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen for as needed use). Follow-up visits were conducted in Weeks 2, 4, 8, and 12. At every visit, participants were evaluated for facial photodamage severity and test product tolerability. Additionally, study participants underwent subject assessments and satisfaction questionnaires, investigator assessments, biopsy collection, and photography.

RESULTS

Significant improvements in all evaluated facial photodamage parameters were observed at 12 weeks together with excellent tolerability and subject satisfaction persisting to Week 12 at study completion. Histology most notably revealed increased elastin fibers in 5 out of 5 post 12-week treatment biopsies on Movat staining, while Herovici stains revealed stimulation of collagen and early formation of new fibers.

CONCLUSION

A novel antioxidant serum has demonstrated to be safe and effective for addressing facial photodamage, while stimulating the production of both elastin and collagen in the extracellular matrix (ECM).

Sodium L-ascorbate enhances elastic fibers deposition by fibroblasts from normal and pathologic human skin

BACKGROUND

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), a known enhancer of collagen deposition, has also been identified as an inhibitor of elastogenesis.

OBJECTIVE

Present studies explored whether and how the L-ascorbic acid derivative (+) sodium L-ascorbate (SA) would affect production of collagen and elastic fibers in cultures of fibroblasts derived from normal human skin and dermal fat, as well as in explants of normal human skin, stretch-marked skin and keloids.

METHODS

Effects of SA on the extracellular matrix production were assessed quantitatively by PCR analyses, western blots, biochemical assay of insoluble elastin and by immuno-histochemistry. We also evaluated effects of SA on production of the reactive oxygen species (ROS) and phosphorylation of IGF-I and insulin receptors.

RESULTS

SA, applied in 50-200 μM concentrations, stimulates production of both collagen and elastic fibers in all tested cultures. Moreover, combination of SA with a proline hydroxylase inhibitor induces a beneficial remodelling in explants of dermal scars, resulting in the inhibition of collagen deposition and induction of new elastogenesis. Importantly, we revealed that SA stimulates elastogenesis only after intracellular influx of non-oxidized ascorbate anions (facilitated by the sodium-dependent ascorbate transporter), that causes reduction of intracellular ROS, activation of c-Src tyrosine kinase and the enhancement of IGF-1-induced phosphorylation of the IGF-1 receptor that ultimately triggers elastogenic signalling pathway.

CONCLUSION

Our results endorse the use of this potent stimulator of collagen and elastin production in the treatment of wrinkled and stretch-marked skin. They also encourage inclusion of SA into therapeutic combinations with collagenogenesis inhibitors to prevent formation of dermal scars and keloids.