How cosmetic tightening products modulate the biomechanics and morphology of human skin

Mechano-biological and bio-mechanical pathways in cutaneous wound healing

Injuries to the skin heal through coordinated action of fibroblast-mediated extracellular matrix (ECM) deposition, ECM remodeling, and wound contraction. Defects involving the dermis result in fibrotic scars featuring increased stiffness and altered collagen content and organization. Although computational models are crucial to unravel the underlying biochemical and biophysical mechanisms, simulations of the evolving wound biomechanics are seldom benchmarked against measurements. Here, we leverage recent quantifications of local tissue stiffness in murine wounds to refine a previously-proposed systems-mechanobiological finite-element model. Fibroblasts are considered as the main cell type involved in ECM remodeling and wound contraction. Tissue rebuilding is coordinated by the release and diffusion of a cytokine wave, e.g. TGF-β, itself developed in response to an earlier inflammatory signal triggered by platelet aggregation. We calibrate a model of the evolving wound biomechanics through a custom-developed hierarchical Bayesian inverse analysis procedure. Further calibration is based on published biochemical and morphological murine wound healing data over a 21-day healing period. The calibrated model recapitulates the temporal evolution of: inflammatory signal, fibroblast infiltration, collagen buildup, and wound contraction. Moreover, it enables in silico hypothesis testing, which we explore by: (i) quantifying the alteration of wound contraction profiles corresponding to the measured variability in local wound stiffness; (ii) proposing alternative constitutive links connecting the dynamics of the biochemical fields to the evolving mechanical properties; (iii) discussing the plausibility of a stretch- vs. stiffness-mediated mechanobiological coupling. Ultimately, our model challenges the current understanding of wound biomechanics and mechanobiology, beside offering a versatile tool to explore and eventually control scar fibrosis after injury.

Potentilloside A, a New Flavonol-bis-Glucuronide from the Leaves of Potentilla chinensis, Inhibits TNF-α-Induced ROS Generation and MMP-1 Secretion

The major contributor to skin aging is UV radiation, which activates pro-inflammatory cytokines including TNF-α. TNF-α is involved in the acceleration of skin aging via ROS generation and MMP-1 secretion. In our preliminary study, a 30% EtOH extract from the leaves of Potentilla chinensis (LPCE) significantly inhibited TNF-α-induced ROS generation in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Therefore, the objective of this study is to identify the active components in LPCE. A new flavonol-bis-glucuronide (potentilloside A, 1) and 14 known compounds (2-15) were isolated from an LPCE by repeated chromatography. The chemical structure of the new compound 1 was determined by analyzing its spectroscopic data (NMR and HRMS) and by acidic hydrolysis. Nine flavonols (2-9 and 11) and two flavone glycosides (12 and 13) from P. chinensis were reported for the first time in this study. Next, we evaluated the effects of the isolates (1-15) on TNF-α-induced ROS generation in HDFs. As a result, all compounds significantly inhibited ROS generation. Furthermore, LPCE and potentilloside A (1) remarkably suppressed MMP-1 secretion in HDFs stimulated by TNF-α. The data suggested that LPCE and potentilloside A (1) are worthy of further experiments for their potential as anti-skin aging agents.

Cyanobacteria Secondary Metabolites as Biotechnological Ingredients in Natural Anti-Aging Cosmetics: Potential to Overcome Hyperpigmentation, Loss of Skin Density and UV Radiation-Deleterious Effects

The loss of density and elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation are among the first noticeable signs of skin aging. Beyond UV radiation and oxidative stress, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) assume a preponderant role in the process, since their deregulation results in the degradation of most extracellular matrix components. In this survey, four cyanobacteria strains were explored for their capacity to produce secondary metabolites with biotechnological potential for use in anti-aging formulations. Leptolyngbya boryana LEGE 15486 and Cephalothrix lacustris LEGE 15493 from freshwater ecosystems, and Leptolyngbya cf. ectocarpi LEGE 11479 and Nodosilinea nodulosa LEGE 06104 from marine habitats were sequentially extracted with acetone and water, and extracts were analyzed for their toxicity in cell lines with key roles in the skin context (HaCAT, 3T3L1, and hCMEC). The non-toxic extracts were chemically characterized in terms of proteins, carotenoids, phenols, and chlorophyll a, and their anti-aging potential was explored through their ability to scavenge the physiological free radical superoxide anion radical (O2•−), to reduce the activity of the MMPs elastase and hyaluronidase, to inhibit tyrosinase and thus avoid melanin production, and to block UV-B radiation (sun protection factor, SPF). Leptolyngbya species stood out for anti-aging purposes: L. boryana LEGE 15486 presented a remarkable SPF of 19 (at 200 µg/mL), being among the best species regarding O2•− scavenging, (IC50 = 99.50 µg/mL) and also being able to inhibit tyrosinase (IC25 = 784 µg/mL), proving to be promising against UV-induced skin-aging; L. ectocarpi LEGE 11479 was more efficient in inhibiting MMPs (hyaluronidase, IC50 = 863 µg/mL; elastase, IC50 = 391 µg/mL), thus being the choice to retard dermal density loss. Principal component analysis (PCA) of the data allowed the grouping of extracts into three groups, according to their chemical composition; the correlation of carotenoids and chlorophyll a with MMPs activity (p < 0.01), O2•− scavenging with phenolic compounds (p < 0.01), and phycocyanin and allophycocyanin with SPF, pointing to these compounds in particular as responsible for UV-B blockage. This original survey explores, for the first time, the biotechnological potential of these cyanobacteria strains in the field of skin aging, demonstrating the promising, innovative, and multifactorial nature of these microorganisms.

Effect of collagen degradation on the mechanical behavior and wrinkling of skin

Chronological skin aging is a complex process that is controlled by numerous intrinsic and extrinsic factors. One major factor is the gradual degradation of the dermal collagen fiber network. As a step toward understanding the mechanistic importance of dermal tissue in the process of aging, this study employs analytical and multiscale computational models to elucidate the effect of collagen fiber bundle disintegration on the mechanical properties and topography of skin. Here, human skin is modeled as a soft composite with an anisotropic dermal layer. The anisotropy of the tissue is governed by collagen fiber bundles with varying densities, average fiber alignments, and normalized alignment distributions. In all finite element models examined, collagen fiber bundle degradation results in progressive decreases in dermal and full-thickness composite stiffness. This reduction is more profound when collagen bundles align with the compression axis. Aged skin models with low collagen fiber bundle densities under compression exhibit notably smaller critical wrinkling strains and larger critical wavelengths than younger skin models, in agreement with in vivo wrinkling behavior with age. The propensity for skin wrinkling can be directly attributable to the degradation of collagen fiber bundles, a relationship that has previously been assumed but unsubstantiated. While linear-elastic analytical models fail to capture the postbuckling behavior in skin, nonlinear finite element models can predict the complex bifurcations of the compressed skin with different densities of collagen bundles.

Cyanobacteria and microalgae bioactive compounds in skin-ageing: potential to restore extracellular matrix filling and overcome hyperpigmentation

As the largest organ in human body, skin acts as a physicochemical barrier, offering protection against harmful environmental stressors, such as chemicals, pathogens, temperature and radiation. Nonetheless, skins prominence goes further, with a significant psychosocial role in an increasingly ageing population. Prompted by consumers’ concern regarding skincare, cosmetic industry has been developing new formulas capable of lessening the most visible signs of ageing, including reduction in skin density and elasticity, wrinkling and hyperpigmentation. Allied to skincare is the rising importance set on natural products, sustainably obtained from less environmental impacting methods. Cyanobacteria and microalgae are adding importance in this field, given their ability to biosynthesize secondary metabolites with anti-ageing potential. In this review, we present an overview on the potential of cyanobacteria and microalgae compounds to overcome skin-ageing, essentially by exploring their effects on the metalloproteinases collagenase, elastase, gelatinase and hyaluronidase, and in other enzymes involved in the pigmentation process.