The diffusion of perfume mixtures and the odor performance

Indoor Emission, Oxidation, and New Particle Formation of Personal Care Product Related Volatile Organic Compounds

Personal care products (PCPs) contain diverse volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and routine use of PCPs indoors has important implications for indoor air quality and human chemical exposures. This chamber study deployed aerosol instrumentation and two online mass spectrometers to quantify VOC emissions from the indoor use of five fragranced PCPs and examined the formation of gas-phase oxidation products and particles upon ozone-initiated oxidation of reactive VOCs. The tested PCPs include a perfume, a roll-on deodorant, a body spray, a hair spray, and a hand lotion. Indoor use of these PCPs emitted over 200 VOCs and resulted in indoor VOC mixing ratios of several parts per million. The VOC emission factors for the PCPs varied from 2 to 964 mg g-1. We identified strong emissions of terpenes and their derivatives, which are likely used as fragrant additives in the PCPs. When using the PCPs in the presence of indoor ozone, these reactive VOCs underwent oxidation reactions to form a variety of gas-phase oxidized vapors and led to rapid new particle formation (NPF) events with particle growth rates up to ten times higher than outdoor atmospheric NPF events. The resulting ultrafine particle concentrations reach ∼34000 to ∼200000 cm-3 during the NPF events.

Detection of fragrances on the skin and study of their interaction using infrared and Raman spectroscopy

Nowadays, fragrances belong to the widely used cosmetics. Their composition is designed in a way that it evolves and changes over time. In this work, the effect of fragrances on the skin was studied - the interactions between pig skin samples and fragrances and the possibility of their detection and mutual differentiation. Non-invasive techniques of vibrational spectroscopy were used to obtain the data, namely FT-IR spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection accessory and Raman microspectroscopy. Vibrational spectra were measured within 8 h with different time intervals and after 22 h from the application of fragrance for FT-IR and Raman measurements, respectively. The obtained spectra were pre‑processed and subsequently evaluated by multivariate statistical methods. The study showed that skin treated by fragrances is well distinguishable from untreated skin, even after 22 h. In addition, it is possible to differentiate individual fragrances from each other; therefore, the use of spectroscopical techniques could be a potential tool for forensic analysis of fragrances.

Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions: From microstructure to skin application

Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed.

Perfume and Flavor Engineering: A Chemical Engineering Perspective

In the last two decades, scientific methodologies for the prediction of the design, performance and classification of fragrance mixtures have been developed at the Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering. This review intends to give an overview of such developments. It all started with the question: what do we smell? The Perfumery Ternary Diagram enables us to determine the dominant odor for each perfume composition. Evaporation and 1D diffusion model is analyzed based on vapor-liquid equilibrium and Fick's law for diffusion giving access to perfume performance parameters. The effect of matrix and skin is addressed and the trail of perfumes analyzed. Classification of perfumes with the perfumery radar is discussed. The methodology is extended to flavor and taste engineering. Finally, future research directions are suggested.

Few Sensory Cues Differentiate Host and Dead-End Trap Plant for the Sugarcane Spotted Borer Chilo sacchariphagus (Lepidoptera: Crambidae)

The use of Erianthus arundinaceus as a trap plant in association with sugarcane reduces populations of the spotted sugarcane stalk borer Chilo sacchariphagus (Bojer) (Lepidoptera: Crambidae). This grass acts as a dead-end trap crop because it is the preferred plant for oviposition relative to sugarcane, and it precludes larval development. We explored the chemical mechanisms involved in host choice by C. sacchariphagus. We showed that the insect's antennal receptors are particularly sensitive to the shared compounds found in the volatile emissions produced by sugarcane and E. arundinaceus. In accordance with their phylogenetic proximity, the two plant species share many physicochemical properties, which suggests that C. sacchariphagus has few sensory cues to differentiate between the two. The terpene (E)-β-ocimene is constitutively emitted by E. arundinaceus, but not by sugarcane. It elicits an electroantennographic response and behavioral responses from female C. sacchariphagus in Y-tube bioassays. Our study suggests that the sensory confusion between host plants, combined with a marginal sensory difference orienting the choice of an egg-laying site, constitutes a mechanism that is relevant to trap cropping. Systems based on this type of mechanism could provide long-term protection for crops vulnerable to insect pests.

Controlling and measuring dynamic odorant stimuli in the laboratory

Animals experience complex odorant stimuli that vary widely in composition, intensity and temporal properties. However, stimuli used to study olfaction in the laboratory are much simpler. This mismatch arises from the challenges in measuring and controlling them precisely and accurately. Even simple pulses can have diverse kinetics that depend on their molecular identity. Here, we introduce a model that describes how stimulus kinetics depend on the molecular identity of the odorant and the geometry of the delivery system. We describe methods to deliver dynamic odorant stimuli of several types, including broadly distributed stimuli that reproduce some of the statistics of naturalistic plumes, in a reproducible and precise manner. Finally, we introduce a method to calibrate a photo-ionization detector to any odorant it can detect, using no additional components. Our approaches are affordable and flexible and can be used to advance our understanding of how olfactory neurons encode real-world odor signals.

Diastereoselective building up polycyclic tetrahydrofurans via tandem annulation of 1,n-enynes with aliphatic acids

A silver-catalyzed tandem annulation of aniline-linked 1,7-enynes with aliphatic acids has been reported. These synergistic tandem annulations allowed for the straightforward and efficient synthesis of various highly diastereoselective polycyclic tetrahydrofurans.