Understanding the effects of processing conditions on the formation of lamellar gel networks using a rheological approach

Extreme heterogeneity in the microrheology of lamellar surfactant gels analyzed with neural networks

The heterogeneity of the viscoelasticity of a lamellar gel network based on cetyl-trimethylammonium chloride and cetostearyl alcohol was studied using particle-tracking microrheology. A recurrent neural network (RNN) architecture was used for estimating the Hurst exponent, H, on small sections of tracks of probe spheres moving with fractional Brownian motion. Thus, dynamic segmentation of tracks via neural networks was used in microrheology and it is significantly more accurate than using mean square displacements (MSDs). An ensemble of 414 particles produces a MSD that is subdiffusive in time, t, with a power law of the form t^{0.74±0.02}, indicating power law viscoelasticity. RNN analysis of the probability distributions of H, combined with detailed analysis of the time-averaged MSDs of individual tracks, revealed diverse diffusion processes belied by the simple scaling of the ensemble MSD, such as caging phenomena, which give rise to the complex viscoelasticity of lamellar gels.

Bioactive Lavandula angustifolia essential oil-loaded nanoemulsion dressing for burn wound healing. In vitro and in vivo studies

The aim of this study was to develop a dressing with bioactive lavender in a new form of nanoemulsion, and to verify its biosafety and effectiveness in burn wound healing. As part of this research, the composition of the bioactive carrier of lavender oil in the form of a nanoemulsion obtained using ultrasound was optimised. The mean particle size of the internal phase and polydispersity were determined using the dynamic light scattering method using a Zestasizer NanoZS by Malvern and using cryo-transmission electron microscopy (TEM). These studies confirmed that the selected formulation had a particle size of approximately 180 nm and remained stable over time. The preparation was also subjected to rheological analysis (viscosity approximately 480 mPa·s) and a pH test (approximately 6). A macroemulsion (ME) with the same qualitative composition was developed as a reference. Nanoformulations and MEs were tested for skin penetration using Raman spectroscopy in an in vitro model. Research has shown that both formulations deliver oil to living layers of the skin. Subsequently, studies were conducted to confirm the effect of lavender oil in emulsion systems on the mitigation of the inflammatory reaction and its pro-regenerative effect on the wound healing process in an in vitro cell culture model. The safe concentration of the oil in the emulsion preparation was also determined based on preliminary in vivo tests of skin sensitisation and irritation as well as an hemocompatibility test of the preparation.

Impact of Processing Conditions on Rheology, Tribology and Wet Lubrication Performance of a Novel Amino Lipid Hair Conditioner

The objective of this work was to carry out a comprehensive evaluation of the performance of a novel cationic amino lipid surfactant, Brassicyl Valinate Esylate (BVE), in contrast to conventional alkyl quaternary ammonium surfactants (quats), through a study of the effects of process mixing speed on its overall rheological, tribological and wet lubrication performance in comparison to BTAC and CTAC, two cationic surfactants widely used in cosmetics. The major cosmetic application of cationic surfactants is in the preparation of hair conditioners. Hence, this analysis was done firstly by conducting tensile combing tests to evaluate reduction in wet lubrication which translates to conditioning performance. The combing results serve as a testing metric that adequately corresponds to consumer perception of conditioned hair. To correlate this technically, yield stress measurements were conducted to establish rheologic profiles of the conditioner formulations, and in vitro tribological testing of the emulsion systems between two steel surfaces were done to technically simulate the spreading and rubbing of conditioner on the hair. The effect of processing conditions on the formulations was then evaluated. BVE was found to be an effective conditioning surfactant suitable as an eco-friendly replacement for BTAC and CTAC in hair conditioner formulations. The results showed that higher shear mixing rates during formulation lead to poorer performance effects evident through decreased yield stress values, lower percentage reduction in combing force and a higher coefficient of friction.