The effect of non-deuterated and deuterated isopropyl myristate on the thermodynamical and structural behavior of a 2D Stratum Corneum model with Ceramide [AP]

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

What can we learn about amphiphile-membrane interaction from model lipid membranes?

Surface-active amphiphiles find applications in a wide range of areas of industry such as agrochemicals, personal care, and pharmaceuticals. In many of these applications, interaction with cell membranes is a key factor for achieving their purpose. How do amphiphiles interact with lipid membranes? What are their bases for membrane specificity? Which biophysical properties of membranes are susceptible to modulation by amphiphilic membrane-effectors? What aspects of this interaction are important for performing their function? In our work on membrane biophysics over the years, questions like these have arisen and we now share some of our findings and discuss them in this review. This topic was approached focusing on the membrane properties and their alterations rather than on the amphiphile structure requirements for their interaction. Here, we do not aim to provide a comprehensive list of the modes of action of amphiphiles of biological interest but to help in understanding them.

l-Ascorbic acid alkyl esters action on stratum corneum model membranes: An insight into the mechanism for enhanced skin permeation

L-ascorbic acid alkyl esters (ASCn) are lipophilic forms of vitamin C, which act as skin permeation enhancers. We investigated the physical changes induced by incorporating ASCn into stratum corneum (SC) lipid membranes and correlated this with the mechanism proposed in the literature for skin permeation enhancement phenomena. We used lipid monolayers to explore the 2D structure and elasticity of the lipid-enhancer systems. As a comparison, the classic permeation enhancer, oleic acid (OA) and the non-enhancer analogue stearic acid (SA) were analysed. The incorporation of ASCn or OA into SC membranes resulted in more liquid-like films, with a dose-dependent lowering of the compressibility modulus. Brewster angle microscopy (BAM) evidenced partial miscibility of the enhancer with SC lipid components, stabilising the liquid-expanded phase. At the nanoscale, AFM showed that SC lipids form heterogeneous membranes, which underwent structural alterations after incorporating ASCn and fatty acids, such as SA and OA. The lower, cholesterol-enriched phase appears to concentrate the enhancers, whilst the higher ceramide-enriched phase concentrated the non-enhancer SA. Our results and previously reported pieces of evidence indicate a strong pattern in which the rheological properties of SC lipid films are determinant for skin permeation phenomena.