Determination of phenolics in cosmetic creams and similar emulsions

Determination of Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Effects of Functional Cosmetic Creams Available on the Thailand Market

Recently, the global trend toward the use of natural extracts and antioxidant agents in the cosmetic cream industry to produce whitening effects has been increasing. This has also been a persistent trend in Thailand. In this study, samples of commercial cosmetic creams on the Thai market were assessed for a functional evaluation of their antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibitory effects, and phenolic contents. Samples were extracted using hot water and sonication extraction method to obtain the functional cream extracts. Total phenolic contents in all samples were within the range of 0.46-47.92 mg GAE/30 g cream. Antioxidant activities of the cream extracts were within the range of 3.61-43.98 mg Trolox equivalent/30 g cream, while tyrosinase inhibition activities were within the range of 2.58-97.94% of inhibition. With regard to the relationship between the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the cosmetic creams, Pearson's correlation coefficient revealed a moderately positive relationship with an r value of 0.6108. Furthermore, the relationship between the antioxidant activity and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the cosmetic creams was highly positive with an r value of 0.7238. Overall, this study demonstrated that the total phenolic contents in the functional cosmetic creams could play a role in antioxidant activity and anti-tyrosinase activities. The findings indicate how the whitening and antioxidant effects of cosmetic creams could be maintained after the products have been formulated, as this concern can affect the consumer's decision when purchasing cosmetic products.

Radioprotective effects of gallic acid in mice

Radioprotecting ability of the natural polyphenol, gallic acid (3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid, GA), was investigated in Swiss albino mice. Oral administration of GA (100 mg/kg body weight), one hour prior to whole body gamma radiation exposure (2–8 Gy; 6 animals/group), reduced the radiation-induced cellular DNA damage in mouse peripheral blood leukocytes, bone marrow cells, and spleenocytes as revealed by comet assay. The GA administration also prevented the radiation-induced decrease in the levels of the antioxidant enzyme, glutathione peroxidise (GPx), and nonprotein thiol glutathione (GSH) and inhibited the peroxidation of membrane lipids in these animals. Exposure of mice to whole body gamma radiation also caused the formation of micronuclei in blood reticulocytes and chromosomal aberrations in bone marrow cells, and the administration of GA resulted in the inhibition of micronucleus formation and chromosomal aberrations. In irradiated animals, administration of GA elicited an enhancement in the rate of DNA repair process and a significant increase in endogenous spleen colony formation. The administration of GA also prevented the radiation-induced weight loss and mortality in animals (10 animals/group) exposed to lethal dose (10 Gy) of gamma radiation. (For every experiment unirradiated animals without GA administration were taken as normal control; specific dose (Gy) irradiated animals without GA administration serve as radiation control; and unirradiated GA treated animals were taken as drug alone control).

Potential sources of high value chemicals from leaves, stems and flowers of Miscanthus sinensis 'Goliath' and Miscanthus sacchariflorus

Society demands chemicals from sustainable sources. Identification of commercially important chemicals in crops increases value in biorefineries and reduces reliance on petrochemicals. Miscanthus sinensis and Miscanthus sacchariflorus are high-yielding distinct plants, which are sources of high-value chemicals and bioethanol through fermentation. Cinnamates in leaves, stems and flowers were analysed by LC-ESI-MS(n). Free phenols were extracted and separated chromatographically. More than twenty hydroxycinnamates were identified by UV and LC-ESI-MS(n). Several cinnamate hexosides were detected in the M. sinensis flower and in M. sacchariflorus (leaf and stem). Hydroxybenzoic acids and their hexosides were observed in leaf and stem of M. sacchariflorus. Higher concentrations of 3-feruloylquinic acid were observed in M. sacchariflorus stem, suggesting a role in cell-wall biosynthesis. This technique can be used to screen plants in a mapping family to identify genotypes/species with high concentrations of phenols. Plants with low concentrations of antimicrobial phenols may be good feedstocks for fermentation.

Ultrasound assisted extraction of phenolic compounds from grapes

A new ultrasound-assisted extraction method was developed for the determination of phenolic compounds present in grapes. Several extraction variables including extraction temperature (0-75°C), output amplitude (20, 50 and 100%), duty cycle (0.2 s, 0.6 s and 1 s), the quantity of sample (0.5-2 g), and the total extraction time (3-15 min) were evaluated. One of the most widely used extraction methods of polyphenol extraction has been used as reference method. Three parameters were compared: total amount of phenolic compounds, total amount of anthocyanins and total amount of tannic components. The resulting method produced similar or higher recoveries for these three parameters; however a much shorter extraction time was needed: 6 min (ultrasound assisted extraction method) instead of 60 min (reference method). Analytical properties for the new method were established, including limit of detection, limit of quantification, repeatability and reproducibility. The developed method was applied to two different types of grapes in different ripening degree.

Statistical designs and response surface techniques for the optimization of chromatographic systems

This paper describes fundamentals and applications of multivariate statistical techniques for the optimization of chromatographic systems. The surface response methodologies: central composite design, Doehlert matrix and Box-Behnken design are discussed and applications of these techniques for optimization of sample preparation steps (extractions) and determination of experimental conditions for chromatographic separations are presented. The use of mixture design for optimization of mobile phases is also related. An optimization example involving a real separation process is exhaustively described. A discussion about model validation is presented. Some applications of other multivariate techniques for optimization of chromatographic methods are also summarized.

Combining high-performance liquid chromatography with on-line microdialysis sampling for the simultaneous determination of ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid, and niacinamide in bleaching cosmetics

We have used on-line microdialysis sampling coupled with high-performance liquid chromatography and UV-vis detection to simultaneously determine the contents of ascorbyl glucoside (AA-2G), kojic acid (KA), and niacinamide (VitB(3)) in commercial bleaching cosmetics. Our results indicate that AA-2G, KA, and VitB(3) separated well within 4.5 min on a reverse-phase Hypersil Fluophase PFP column when eluting with 0.020 M phosphate buffer solution in 40% (v/v) methanol at pH 5.5. The calibration curves were linear over the ranges 0.068-304, 0.071-284, and 0.024-488 microg mL(-1) for AA-2G, KA, and VitB(3), respectively, with correlation coefficients for the linear regression analyses falling within the range 0.9982-0.9999. The detection limits for AA-2G, KA, and VitB(3) were 0.01, 0.01, and 0.007 microg mL(-1), respectively. The detection wavelength was robust when the levels of the analytes in the samples were high (0.1-2%). The analytes were all detected using ultraviolet light (254 nm). The compounds diffuse through the membrane more readily when KA and VitB(3) are in their molecular forms and AA-2G is ionized. The recoveries were in the range 92-106% with good reproducibility (R.S.D.=3.9-8.7%). We used this procedure to assay six commercially available bleaching cosmetics; our results confirmed not only the precision of the method but also the claims made on the labels of the cosmetics. This approach provides a very simple means to determine the contents of AA-2G, KA, and VitB(3) in various dosages in bleaching cosmetics.