Influence of cholesterol on the structure of stratum corneum lipid model membrane

The phase behavior of skin-barrier lipids: A combined approach of experiments and simulations

Skin barrier function is localized in its outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), which is comprised of corneocyte cells embedded in an extracellular lipid matrix containing ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs). The unique structure and composition of this lipid matrix are important for skin barrier function. In this study, experiments and molecular dynamics simulation were combined to investigate the structural properties and phase behavior of mixtures containing nonhydroxy sphingosine CER (CER NS), CHOL, and FFA. X-ray scattering for mixtures with varying CHOL levels revealed the presence of the 5.4 nm short periodicity phase in the presence of CHOL. Bilayers in coarse-grained multilayer simulations of the same compositions contained domains with thicknesses of approximately 5.3 and 5.8 nm that are associated with elevated levels, respectively, of CER sphingosine chains with CHOL, and CER acyl chains with FFA chains. The prevalence of the thicker domain increased with decreasing CHOL content. This might correspond to a phase with ∼5.8 nm spacing observed by x-rays (other details unknown) in mixtures with lower CHOL content. Scissoring and stretching frequencies from Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) also indicate interaction between FFA and CER acyl chains and little interaction between CER acyl and CER sphingosine chains, which requires CER molecules to adopt a predominantly extended conformation. In the simulated systems, neighbor preferences of extended CER chains align more closely with the FTIR observations than those of CERs with hairpin ceramide chains. Both FTIR and atomistic simulations of reverse mapped multilayer membranes detect a hexagonal to fluid phase transition between 65 and 80°C. These results demonstrate the utility of a collaborative experimental and simulation effort in gaining a more comprehensive understanding of SC lipid membranes.

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Elucidating collective translocation of nanoparticles across the skin lipid matrix: a molecular dynamics study

The top layer of skin, the stratum corneum, provides a formidable barrier to the skin. Nanoparticles are utilized and further explored for personal and health care applications related to the skin. In the past few years, several researchers have studied the translocation and permeation of nanoparticles of various shapes, sizes, and surface chemistry through cell membranes. Most of these studies focused on a single nanoparticle and a simple bilayer system, whereas skin has a highly complex lipid membrane architecture. Moreover, it is highly unlikely that a nanoparticle formulation applied on the skin will not have multiple nanoparticle-nanoparticle and skin-nanoparticle interactions. In this study, we have utilized coarse-grained MARTINI molecular dynamics simulations to assess the interactions of two types (bare and dodecane-thiol coated) of nanoparticles with two models (single bilayer and double bilayer) of skin lipid membranes. The nanoparticles were found to be partitioned from the water layer to the lipid membrane as an individual entity as well as in the cluster form. It was discovered that each nanoparticle reached the interior of both single bilayer and double bilayer membranes irrespective of the nanoparticle type and concentration, though coated particles were observed to efficiently traverse across the bilayer when compared with bare particles. The coated nanoparticles also created a single large cluster inside the membrane, whereas the bare nanoparticles were found in small clusters. Both the nanoparticles exhibited preferential interactions with cholesterol molecules present in the lipid membrane as compared to other lipid components of the membrane. We have also observed that the single membrane model exhibited unrealistic instability at moderate to higher concentrations of nanoparticles, and hence for translocation study, a minimum double bilayer model should be employed.

Small-Angle Neutron Scattering for Studying Lipid Bilayer Membranes

Small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) is a powerful tool for studying biological membranes and model lipid bilayer membranes. The length scales probed by SANS, being from 1 nm to over 100 nm, are well-matched to the relevant length scales of the bilayer, particularly when it is in the form of a vesicle. However, it is the ability of SANS to differentiate between isotopes of hydrogen as well as the availability of deuterium labeled lipids that truly enable SANS to reveal details of membranes that are not accessible with the use of other techniques, such as small-angle X-ray scattering. In this work, an overview of the use of SANS for studying unilamellar lipid bilayer vesicles is presented. The technique is briefly presented, and the power of selective deuteration and contrast variation methods is discussed. Approaches to modeling SANS data from unilamellar lipid bilayer vesicles are presented. Finally, recent examples are discussed. While the emphasis is on studies of unilamellar vesicles, examples of the use of SANS to study intact cells are also presented.

Cerosomes as skin repairing agent: Mode of action studies with a model stratum corneum layer at liquid/air and liquid/solid interfaces

The stratum corneum (SC) is the largest physical barrier of the human body. It protects against physical, chemical and biological damages, and avoids evaporation of water from the deepest skin layers. For its correct functioning, the homeostasis of the SC lipid matrix is fundamental. An alteration of the lipid matrix composition and in particular of its ceramide (CER) fraction can lead to the development of pathologies such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Different studies showed that the direct replenishment of SC lipids on damaged skin had positive effects on the recovery of its barrier properties. In this work, cerosomes, i.e. liposomes composed of SC lipids, have been successfully prepared in order to investigate the mechanism of interaction with a model SC lipid matrix. The cerosomes contain CER[NP], D-CER[AP], stearic acid and cholesterol. In addition, hydrogenated soybean phospholipids have been added to one of the formulations leading to an increased stability at neutral pH. For the mode of action studies, monolayer models at the air-water interface and on solid support have been deployed. The results indicated that a strong interaction occurred between SC monolayers and the cerosomes. Since both systems were negatively charged, the driving force for the interaction must be based on the ability of CERs head groups to establish intermolecular hydrogen bonding networks that energetically prevailed against the electrostatic repulsion. This work proved for the first time the mode of action by which cerosomes exploit their function as skin barrier repairing agents on the SC.

Development of a novel human stratum corneum model, as a tool in the optimization of drug formulations

Transdermal delivery represents a very attractive administration route that provides various advantages over other methods of administration, including enhanced patient compliance via non-invasive, painless and simple application and reduced side effects. Thereby, the research on suitable drugs for this route continues to increase. However, most of drug candidates face the challenges of low drug permeability across the skin's biologically active barrier - the stratum corneum (SC). In this context, a low cost, simple screening tool to evaluate penetration of drug candidates in a human SC barrier model was developed. The in vitro model is based on a modified phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay (PVPA) with a lipid composition close to human SC layer. The new SC PVPA model can be stored up to 2 weeks at -20 °C, withstand a pH range from 2.0 to 8.0 and the presence of co-solvents (DMSO, oleic acid and cremophor®) without losing their integrity. The human mimicking SC PVPA model was able to detect calcein permeability differences when different drugs, applied in the therapy of skin-related diseases, were present. The obtained data correlated well with the well accepted pig ear model, which highlights the potential of this new human SC model.

The effect of hydrophilic penetration/diffusion enhancer on stratum corneum lipid models: Part II*: DMSO

To optimize dermal and transdermal administration of drugs, the barrier function of the skin, particularly the stratum corneum (SC), needs to be reduced reversibly. For this purpose, penetration/diffusion enhancers such as DMSO can be applied. However, there is the question whether DMSO is an aggressive penetration/diffusion enhancer in pharmaceutical and cosmetical relevant concentrations? Until now, it is unclear if this penetration/diffusion enhancement is caused by an interaction with the SC lipid matrix or related to effects within the corneocytes. Therefore, the effects of the hydrophilic enhancer DMSO on SC models with different dimensionality ranging from bilayers (liposomes) via oligo-layers to multilayers have been investigated in this study. The effects of DMSO should be compared to that of other relevant hydrophilic enhancers such as urea and taurine. An innovative spectrum of methods was applied to ascertain the mode of action of DMSO in relevant concentrations on a molecular scale. The experiments reveal that there is no specific interaction of 10% and 30% DMSO solutions with the SC model systems. Hence, if DMSO is applied in pharmaceutically and cosmetically relevant concentrations, it has no influence on the SC model systems used. Neither an additional water uptake in the head group region nor a decrease of the lipid chain packing density have been observed. The leakage studies on liposomes show that 10% DMSO is causing just a very slight leakage of 8%, lower than the leakage of 19.4% caused by 10% urea (Müller et al., 2016). Consequently, the interactions of DMSO with the SC model lipids used are very low in concentrations of 10% and 30%, respectively. Since the lipid composition in native SC lipid matrix is far more complex than this model mixture, the results can not be directly transferred to the native SC lipid matrix. However, the outcome of this study, together with various findings in the literature give rise to the assumption that the enhancing effect of DMSO concerning the diffusion of relevant hydrophilic drugs and actives appears to be realized via the corneocytes.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

Simplified stratum corneum model membranes for studying the effects of permeation enhancers

The activity of transdermal permeation enhancers is usually evaluated in vitro on human or animal skin, but skin samples can be hard to source and highly variable. To provide a more consistent basis for evaluating the activity of permeation enhancers, we prepared relatively simple and inexpensive artificial membranes that imitate the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix. Our membranes were composed of stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and a ceramide (CER) component consisting of N-2-hydroxystearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[AP]) and/or N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (CER[NP]). First, the permeation of theophylline (TH) and indomethacin (IND) through these membranes was compared with their permeation through porcine skin. Because the mixed CER[AP]/[NP] membrane gave the closest results to skin, this membrane was then used to test the effects of two permeation enhancers: N-dodecyl azepan-2-one (Azone) and (S)-N-acetylproline dodecyl ester (L-Pro2). Both enhancers significantly increased the flux of TH and IND through the skin and, even more markedly, through the lipid membrane, L-Pro2 having a stronger effect than Azone. Thus, our simplified model of the SC lipid membrane based on phytosphingosine CERs appears to be suitable for mimicking skin permeation.

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and molecular dynamics analysis of penetration of retinyl acetate into stratum corneum

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study is to elucidate the behavior of retinyl acetate in penetrating human skin without the presence of enhancers by using confocal Raman spectroscopy and molecular dynamics simulation.

METHODS

In this study, in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was combined with molecular dynamics simulation to investigate the transdermal permeation of the aqueous suspension of retinyl acetate.

RESULTS

Permeation was measured after 30min, and retinyl acetate was found up to 20μm deep inside the stratum corneum. The delivery of retinyl acetate inside a skin membrane model was studied by molecular dynamics. The membrane model that was used represented normal young skin containing a lipid bilayer with 25% ceramide, 36% fatty acid, 30% cholesterol, and 6% cholesterol sulfate.

CONCLUSION

Spectroscopy data indicate that retinyl acetate permeates into the stratum corneum. Molecular dynamics data showed that retinyl acetate permeates in the membrane model and that their final location is deep inside the lipid bilayer. We showed, for the first time, a correlation between Raman permeation data and computational data.

Preparation of a New Oligolamellar Stratum Corneum Lipid Model

In this study, we present a preparation method for a new stratum corneum (SC) model system, which is closer to natural SC than the commonly used multilayer models. The complex setup of the native SC lipid matrix was mimicked by a ternary lipid mixture of ceramide [AP], cholesterol, and stearic acid. A spin coating procedure was applied to realize oligo-layered samples. The influence of lipid concentration, rotation speed, polyethylenimine, methanol content, cholesterol fraction, and annealing on the molecular arrangement of the new SC model was investigated by X-ray reflectivity measurements. The new oligo-SC model is closer to native SC in the total number of lipid membranes found between corneocytes. The reduction in thickness provides the opportunity to study the effects of drugs and/or hydrophilic penetration enhancers on the structure of SC in full detail by X-ray or neutron reflectivity. In addition, the oligo-lamellar systems allows one to infer not only the lamellar spacing, but also the total thickness of the oligo-SC model and changes thereof can be monitored. This improvement is most helpful for the understanding of transdermal drug administration on the nanoscale. The results are compared to the commonly used multilamellar lipid model systems and advantages and disadvantages of both models are discussed.

Phase behavior of skin lipid mixtures: the effect of cholesterol on lipid organization

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the upper layer of the skin, plays a critical role in the skin barrier. The matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). In human SC, these lipids form two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 6 and 13 nm. In the studies reported here, we investigated the effect of CHOL on lipid organization in each of these lamellar phases separately. For this purpose, we used lipid model mixtures. Our studies revealed that CHOL is imperative for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. At low CHOL levels, the formation of the lamellar phases was dramatically changed: a minimum 0.2 CHOL level in the CER/CHOL/FFA (1 : 0.2 : 1) mixture is required for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. Furthermore, CHOL enhances the formation of the highly dense orthorhombic lateral packing. The gradual increment of CHOL increases the fraction of lipids forming the very dense orthorhombic lateral packing. Therefore, these studies demonstrate that CHOL is an indispensable component of the SC lipid matrix and is of fundamental importance for appropriate dense lipid organization and thus important for the skin barrier function.