A new sunscreen of the cinnamate class: Synthesis and enzymatic hydrolysis evaluation of glyceryl esters of p-methoxycinnamic acid

The direct observation of the doorway 1nπ* state of methylcinnamate and hydrogen-bonding effects on the photochemistry of cinnamate-based sunscreens

The electronic states and photochemistry including nonradiative decay (NRD) and trans(E) → cis(Z) isomerization of methylcinnamate (MC) and its hydrogen-bonded complex with methanol have been investigated under jet-cooled conditions. S1(1nπ*) and S2(1ππ*) are directly observed in MC. This is the first direct observation of S1(1nπ*) in cinnamate derivatives. Surprisingly, the order of the energies between the nπ* and ππ* states is opposite to substituted cinnamates. TD-DFT and SAC-CI calculations support the observed result and show that the substitution to the benzene ring largely lowers the 1ππ* energy while the effect on 1nπ* is rather small. The S2(ππ*) state lifetime of MC is determined to be equal to or shorter than 10 ps, and the production of the transient T1 state is observed. The T1(ππ*) state is calculated to have a structure in which propenyl C[double bond, length as m-dash]C is twisted by 90°, suggesting the trans → cis isomerization proceeds via T1. The production of the cis isomer is confirmed by low-temperature matrix-isolated FTIR spectroscopy. The effect of H-bonding is examined for the MC-methanol complex. The S2 lifetime of MC-methanol is determined to be 180 ps, indicating that the H-bonding to the C[double bond, length as m-dash]O group largely prohibits the 1ππ* → 1nπ* internal conversion. This lifetime elongation in the methanol complex also describes well a higher fluorescence quantum yield of MC in methanol solution than in cyclohexane, while such a solvent dependence is not observed in para-substituted MC. Determination of the photochemical reaction pathways of MC and MC-methanol will help us to design photofunctional cinnamate derivatives.

In vivo and in vitro evaluation of octyl methoxycinnamate liposomes

Solar radiation causes damage to human skin, and photoprotection is the main way to prevent these harmful effects. The development of sunscreen formulations containing nanosystems is of great interest in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries because of the many potential benefits. This study aimed to develop and evaluate an octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) liposomal nanosystem (liposome/OMC) to obtain a sunscreen formulation with improved safety and efficacy by retaining OMC for longer on the stratum corneum.

Formulation of sunscreens with enhancement sun protection factor response based on solid lipid nanoparticles

Solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) was regarded as new topical delivery systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients. The purpose of this study is to develop carrier systems for organic and inorganic sunscreens based on a matrix composed of carnauba wax and decyl oleate. Formulae (F1-F7) were prepared using butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and octyl methoxycinnamate as organic components, and titanium dioxide (TiO(2) ) was used as inorganic component. Both types of sunscreens were incorporated into SLN formulations using classical method of preparation. To evaluate the effect of the pigments on the nanoparticles, particle size was measured using Mastersizer particle size analyser. UV-protection abilities of formulations were investigated by the in vitro sun protection factor test (SPF). Further parameters determined were spreadability as well as viscosity. The rheological behaviour of the formulations was also carried out. From the plot of log of shear stress vs. log of shear rate, the slope of the plot representing flow index and ontology of the y-intercept indicating consistency index was calculated. The formulae showed a flow index of 0.2074-0.4005 indicating pseudoplastic flow behaviour. Significant increases in SPF values up to about 50 were reported after the encapsulation by using organic and inorganic filters in Canada wax and decyl oleate. So, SLN could be appropriate vehicles to carry organic and inorganic sunscreens. The rational combination of cinnamates, titanium dioxide and Zinc oxide has shown a synergistic effect to improve the SPF of cosmetic preparations.

UV-ABC screens of luteolin derivatives compared to edelweiss extract

Pure luteolin is a remarkably heat (200°C/6 days) and UV stable UV-A screen, however, native luteolin enriched to 37% in an edelweiss extract lost its UV-A screen properties upon UV irradiation (∼4MJm(-2)). This contrasting behavior led to the examination of a series of purified luteolin derivatives as UV screen candidates. 3',4',5,7-Tetralipoyloxyflavones were synthesized from luteolin (3',4',5,7-tetrahydroxyflavone) and fatty acid chlorides. These acylated semi-biomolecules show a hypsochromic shift in UV-Vis spectra of about Δλ(A→B)=58nm and absorbed in the centre of the harmful UV-B band (λ(max)=295nm). Luteolin was also hydroxyethylated with Br(CH(2))(2)OH. This substitution has no effect on the λ(max)=330nm absorption of luteolin (UV-A band). Finally the natural 4'-O-β-glucosyl-3',5,7-trihydroxyflavone was extracted from edelweiss and used as a purified natural benchmark. Glycosylated and hydroxyethylated luteolin are both UV stable. Fully acylated luteolin derivatives degrade upon UV exposure to a stable UV-C screen with a hypsochroic shift Δλ(B→C)=35nm. All in all, three molecular structures based on luteolin with sunscreen properties were found, distinguishable in: UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C filters. The natural product based UV-absorbers show promise as alternatives to synthetic molecules and nanoparticles in sunscreen products.

Sun protection enhancement of titanium dioxide crystals by the use of carnauba wax nanoparticles: The synergistic interaction between organic and inorganic sunscreens at nanoscale

Carnauba wax is partially composed of cinnamates. The rational combination of cinnamates and titanium dioxide has shown a synergistic effect to improve the sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic preparations. However, the mechanism of this interaction has not been fully understood. In this study, an ethanolic extract of the carnauba wax and an ethanolic solution of a typical cinnamate derivative, ethylcinnamate, were prepared and their UV absorption and SPF either alone or in the presence of titanium dioxide were compared. The titanium dioxide crystals and the cinnamates solutions were also distributed into a matrix composed of saturated fatty acids to emulate the structure of the crystallized carnauba wax. SPF, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and X-ray studies of these matrices were performed. Additionally, carnauba wax nanosuspensions containing titanium dioxide either in the lipid phase or in the aqueous phase were prepared to evaluate their SPFs and their physical structure. Strong UV absorption was observed in diluted suspensions of titanium dioxide after the addition of cinnamates. The saturated fatty acid matrices probably favored the adsorption of the cinnamates at the surface of titanium dioxide crystals, which was reflected by an increase in the SPF. No modification of the crystal structure of the fatty acid matrices was observed after the addition of cinnamates or titanium dioxide. The distribution of the titanium dioxide inside the lipid phase of the nanosuspensions was more effective to reach higher SPFs than that at the aqueous phase. The close contact between the carnauba wax and the titanium dioxide crystals after the high-pressure homogenization process was confirmed by transmission electron microscopy (TEM).