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Zadra M, Menezes BBD, Frescura LM, Essi L, Amaro de Carvalho C, Barcellos da Rosa M. Ruellia angustiflora (Nees) Lindau ex Rambo: extraction and characterization of phenolic compounds and evaluation of antiradical, photoprotective and antimicrobial activities. Nat Prod Res 2024; 38:2082-2090. [PMID: 37548309 DOI: 10.1080/14786419.2023.2244124] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/16/2023] [Revised: 07/03/2023] [Accepted: 07/24/2023] [Indexed: 08/08/2023]
Abstract
Ruellia angustiflora is a shrub popularly known as flower of fire, used in traditional medicine as a healing agent. This study aims to verify the presence of characteristics of pharmaceutical interest in extracts from the root, stem and leaves of this species. The ideal time for ultrasound-assisted extraction is 60 min with a solid-liquid ratio of 1% (w/v). The kinetics of the reaction of the extracts with DPPH is biphasic, and IC50 values are related to the total phenolic compounds. Five phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts, where ferulic acid, rutin and quercetin showed to be the main responsible for the antiradical activity. The extracts displayed considerable photoprotective activity, mainly Ra-LE (SPF = 23). Ra-RE showed an inhibition halo similar to erythromycin against Streptococcus pyogenes. Taken together, these data reveal that Ruellia angustiflora is a source of phenolic compounds and has relevant antiradical, photoprotective and antibacterial activities.
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Affiliation(s)
- Marina Zadra
- Post-Graduate Program in Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of Santa Maria, Santa Maria, Brazil
| | | | - Lucas Mironuk Frescura
- Post-Graduate Program in Chemistry, Federal University of Santa Maria, Santa Maria, Brazil
| | - Liliana Essi
- Department of Biology, Federal University of Santa Maria, Santa Maria, RS, Brazil
| | | | - Marcelo Barcellos da Rosa
- Post-Graduate Program in Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of Santa Maria, Santa Maria, Brazil
- Post-Graduate Program in Chemistry, Federal University of Santa Maria, Santa Maria, Brazil
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Marques GDA, Hiraishi CF, Macedo PIDS, Pinto CASDO, Gregório J, Rosado C, Velasco MVR, Baby AR. HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol: Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results. Int J Cosmet Sci 2023; 45:647-654. [PMID: 37265451 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12874] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/25/2023] [Revised: 05/23/2023] [Accepted: 05/29/2023] [Indexed: 06/03/2023]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. METHODS The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. RESULTS Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. CONCLUSIONS It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Camila Faustino Hiraishi
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| | - Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| | | | - João Gregório
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Catarina Rosado
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | | | - André Rolim Baby
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
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Hong S, Peng Z, Wu M, Nie Y, Yi Y, Cai H, Zhang XZ. Human-Hair-Derived Natural Particles as Multifunctional Sunscreen for Effective UV Protection. ACS NANO 2023; 17:14943-14953. [PMID: 37485891 DOI: 10.1021/acsnano.3c03504] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 07/25/2023]
Abstract
Excessive ultraviolet (UV) radiation can lead to a series of skin problems. Although commercial sunscreens can protect skin from UV-induced damage to an extent, the side effects caused by such products are still worrisome. Here, inspired by the natural photoprotection effect of human hair, we extracted the multifunctional particles from human hair as sunscreens for UV protection. Both in vitro and in vivo results indicate that hair-derived particles (HDPs) could effectively protect skin from UV radiation. Besides, HDPs retain the antioxidant capability of melanin in hair, which avoids UV-induced oxidative damage. In addition, the unique shape of HDPs can prevent them from penetrating into the skin, thus avoiding potential toxicity. Moreover, owing to their mesoporous structure, the particles can also be used as drug carriers. With the loading of octocrylene, the particles are more effective in blocking UV radiation. This study provides an ingenious tactic for the design and development of sunscreens from a natural substance.
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Affiliation(s)
- Sheng Hong
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences (Shenzhen), Sun Yat-sen University, Shenzhen 518107, People's Republic of China
| | - Zhangwen Peng
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences (Shenzhen), Sun Yat-sen University, Shenzhen 518107, People's Republic of China
| | - Meiying Wu
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences (Shenzhen), Sun Yat-sen University, Shenzhen 518107, People's Republic of China
| | - Yichu Nie
- Translational Medicine Research Institute, First People's Hospital of Foshan, Foshan 528000, People's Republic of China
| | - Yunfei Yi
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences (Shenzhen), Sun Yat-sen University, Shenzhen 518107, People's Republic of China
| | - Hui Cai
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences (Shenzhen), Sun Yat-sen University, Shenzhen 518107, People's Republic of China
| | - Xian-Zheng Zhang
- Key Laboratory of Biomedical Polymers of Ministry of Education & Department of Chemistry, Wuhan University, Wuhan 430072, People's Republic of China
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Kumar M, Sharma A, Mahmood S, Thakur A, Mirza MA, Bhatia A. Franz diffusion cell and its implication in skin permeation studies. J DISPER SCI TECHNOL 2023. [DOI: 10.1080/01932691.2023.2188923] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 03/31/2023]
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New Ferulic Acid and Amino Acid Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical and Pharmaceutical Potential. Pharmaceutics 2022; 15:pharmaceutics15010117. [PMID: 36678746 PMCID: PMC9861623 DOI: 10.3390/pharmaceutics15010117] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/24/2022] [Revised: 12/21/2022] [Accepted: 12/22/2022] [Indexed: 01/01/2023] Open
Abstract
Ferulic acid (FA) has been widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry due to its, inter alia, antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory effects This compound added to cosmetic preparations can protect skin because of its photoprotective activity. However, the usefulness of FA as a therapeutic agent is limited due to its low solubility and bioavailability. The paper presents the synthesis, identification, and physicochemical properties of new FA derivatives with propyl esters of three amino acids, glycine (GPr[FA]), L-leucine (LPr[FA]), and L-proline (PPr[FA]). The NMR and FTIR spectroscopy, DSC, and TG analysis were used as analytical methods. Moreover, water solubility of the new conjugates was compared with the parent acid. Both ferulic acid and its conjugates were introduced into hydrogel and emulsion, and the resulting formulations were evaluated for stability. Additionally, in vitro penetration of all studied compounds from both formulations and for comparative purposes using Franz diffusion cells was evaluated from the solution in 70% (v/v) ethanol. Finally, cytotoxicity against murine fibroblasts L929 was tested. All of the analyzed compounds permeated pig skin and accumulated in it. LPr[FA] and PPr[FA] were characterized by much better permeability compared to the parent ferulic acid. Additionally, it was shown that all the analyzed derivatives are characterized by high antioxidant activity and lack of cytotoxicity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative to be applied in dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.
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Rioux B, Combes J, Woolley JM, Rodrigues NDN, Mention MM, Stavros VG, Allais F. From Biomass-Derived p-Hydroxycinnamic Acids to Novel Sustainable and Non-Toxic Phenolics-Based UV-Filters: A Multidisciplinary Journey. Front Chem 2022; 10:886367. [PMID: 35864863 PMCID: PMC9294603 DOI: 10.3389/fchem.2022.886367] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/28/2022] [Accepted: 06/01/2022] [Indexed: 11/30/2022] Open
Abstract
Although organic UV-filters are extensively used in cosmetics to protect consumers from the deleterious effects of solar UV radiation-exposure, they suffer from some major drawbacks such as their fossil origin and their toxicity to both humans and the environment. Thus, finding sustainable and non-toxic UV-filters is becoming a topic of great interest for the cosmetic industry. A few years ago, sinapoyl malate was shown to be a powerful naturally occurring UV-filter. Building on these findings, we decided to design and optimize an entire value chain that goes from biomass to innovative biobased and non-toxic lignin-derived UV-filters. This multidisciplinary approach relies on: 1) The production of phenolic synthons using either metabolite extraction from biomass or their bioproduction through synthetic biology/fermentation/in stream product recovery; 2) their functionalization using green chemistry to access sinapoyl malate and analogues; 3) the study of their UV-filtering activity, their photostability, their biological properties; and 4) their photodynamics. This mini-review aims at demonstrating that combining biotechnology, green chemistry, downstream process and photochemistry is a powerful approach to transform biomass and, in particular lignins, into high value-added innovative UV-filters.
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Affiliation(s)
- Benjamin Rioux
- URD Agro-Biotechnologies Industrielles (ABI), CEBB, AgroParisTech, Pomacle, France
| | - Jeanne Combes
- URD Agro-Biotechnologies Industrielles (ABI), CEBB, AgroParisTech, Pomacle, France
| | - Jack M. Woolley
- Department of Chemistry, University of Warwick, Coventry, United Kingtom
| | - Natércia d. N. Rodrigues
- Department of Chemistry, University of Warwick, Coventry, United Kingtom
- Lipotec SAU, Barcelona, Spain
| | - Matthieu M. Mention
- URD Agro-Biotechnologies Industrielles (ABI), CEBB, AgroParisTech, Pomacle, France
| | - Vasilios G. Stavros
- Department of Chemistry, University of Warwick, Coventry, United Kingtom
- *Correspondence: Vasilios G. Stavros, ; Florent Allais,
| | - Florent Allais
- URD Agro-Biotechnologies Industrielles (ABI), CEBB, AgroParisTech, Pomacle, France
- *Correspondence: Vasilios G. Stavros, ; Florent Allais,
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Ruscinc N, Morocho-Jácome AL, Martinez RM, Magalhães WV, Escudeiro CC, Giarolla J, Rosado C, Velasco MVR, Baby AR. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy. J Cosmet Dermatol 2022; 21:4765-4774. [PMID: 35029052 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14779] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/17/2021] [Accepted: 01/10/2022] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. METHODS Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. RESULTS As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME, nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. CONCLUSION Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nadia Ruscinc
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | - Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | - Renata Miliani Martinez
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | | | | | - Jeanine Giarolla
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | - Catarina Rosado
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | | | - André Rolim Baby
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
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Microalgae as a Sustainable, Natural-Oriented and Vegan Dermocosmetic Bioactive Ingredient: The Case of Neochloris oleoabundans. COSMETICS 2022. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics9010009] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/04/2023] Open
Abstract
“Vegan” and “sustainable” characteristics are strong claim trends behind the development of innovative skincare, fragrances, and makeup products. This created a need in the market for compliant ingredients. To date, there have been no records evidencing the use of the microalgae Neochloris oleoabundans (NA) in dermocosmetics. Therefore, we studied the applicability of such a natural compound in this context. NA was cultivated, and the scavenging activity (SA) of the NA extracts was evaluated. The highest SA was from the aqueous extract (54.8% ± 2.1%), being higher than that of the positive control. Two hydrogels were prepared with 1.0% ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer: (1) control gel; and (2) gel with a 1.0% NA aqueous extract. In vivo experiments were performed in healthy male and female volunteers with skin phototypes of II–IV. The stratum corneum (SC) hydration and the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured in the forearm of participants to determine their biocompatibility. This parameter was determined by skin bioengineering measurements, confirming that SC hydration and TEWL were not affected by the samples. The laser Doppler measurements results showed a delayed erythema onset in the sites, where the NA hydrogel was applied. The results confirmed the biocompatibility and the anti-inflammatory activity of an innovative ingredient derived from microalgae suitable for a natural and vegan lifestyle.
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Preliminary Protocol Development of a HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (Ex Vivo Stratum Corneum) Assay for Skin Research: Application in a Sunscreen System. Sci Pharm 2021. [DOI: 10.3390/scipharm89020017] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/14/2022] Open
Abstract
Considering the importance of the cutaneous tissue investigation and the need for the development of new protocols to non-invasively establish the safety and efficacy of dermocosmetics and topical products, we aimed at developing an HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high performance liquid chromatography–thiobarbituric acid reactive species–ex vivo stratum corneum) assay for the lipid peroxidation measurement on subjects’ stratum corneum (SC) obtained by tape stripping; additionally, we applied the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC assay in an emulsified sunscreen system containing ethylhexyl triazone and bemotrizinol as UV filters. HPLC analysis was performed in isocratic mode with 35% methanol/65% phosphate buffer (pH 7.0) as the mobile phase. The diode detector was set at 532 nm to quantify the malondialdehyde (MDA)-TBA adduct. An ex vivo tape stripping method was applied in 10 volunteers in three pre-defined regions of the volar forearms: the control; the irradiated; and the site containing the sunscreen (2.0 mg·cm−2). Ten adhesive tapes per region were used for SC removal. An exclusive ex vivo protocol to measure SC lipid peroxidation was preliminarily developed with linearity and selectivity. The protocol suggested the use of an artificial irradiation dose (5506 KJ·m−2) to improve the assay response from the SC. The sunscreen system had a significative decrease in SC lipoperoxidative damage compared to the control. Our protocol can aid in the efficacy establishment of anti-UV and antioxidant agents, for instance, in studies that aim at elucidating the level of SC lipid peroxidation and even in carrying out baseline investigations characterizing different ethnicities and genders.
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Piccinino D, Capecchi E, Tomaino E, Gabellone S, Gigli V, Avitabile D, Saladino R. Nano-Structured Lignin as Green Antioxidant and UV Shielding Ingredient for Sunscreen Applications. Antioxidants (Basel) 2021; 10:274. [PMID: 33578879 PMCID: PMC7916605 DOI: 10.3390/antiox10020274] [Citation(s) in RCA: 52] [Impact Index Per Article: 17.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/15/2021] [Revised: 02/02/2021] [Accepted: 02/02/2021] [Indexed: 02/07/2023] Open
Abstract
Green, biocompatible, and biodegradable antioxidants represent a milestone in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenol in nature, recovered as a low-cost waste from the pulp and paper industry and biorefinery. This polymer is characterized by beneficial physical and chemical properties which are improved at the nanoscale level due to the emergence of antioxidant and UV shielding activities. Here we review the use of lignin nanoparticles in cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications, focusing on sunscreen and antiaging formulations. Advances in the technology for the preparation of lignin nanoparticles are described highlighting structure activity relationships.
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Affiliation(s)
- Davide Piccinino
- Department of Ecology and Biology, University of Tuscia, San Camillo De Lellis, 01100 Viterbo, Italy; (E.C.); (E.T.); (S.G.); (V.G.)
| | - Eliana Capecchi
- Department of Ecology and Biology, University of Tuscia, San Camillo De Lellis, 01100 Viterbo, Italy; (E.C.); (E.T.); (S.G.); (V.G.)
| | - Elisabetta Tomaino
- Department of Ecology and Biology, University of Tuscia, San Camillo De Lellis, 01100 Viterbo, Italy; (E.C.); (E.T.); (S.G.); (V.G.)
| | - Sofia Gabellone
- Department of Ecology and Biology, University of Tuscia, San Camillo De Lellis, 01100 Viterbo, Italy; (E.C.); (E.T.); (S.G.); (V.G.)
| | - Valeria Gigli
- Department of Ecology and Biology, University of Tuscia, San Camillo De Lellis, 01100 Viterbo, Italy; (E.C.); (E.T.); (S.G.); (V.G.)
| | - Daniele Avitabile
- IDI Farmaceutici, Via dei Castelli Romani 73/75, 00071 Pomezia, Italy;
| | - Raffaele Saladino
- Department of Ecology and Biology, University of Tuscia, San Camillo De Lellis, 01100 Viterbo, Italy; (E.C.); (E.T.); (S.G.); (V.G.)
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