Safety and risk assessment of ceramide 3 in cosmetic products

Polyacrylate-Cholesterol Amphiphilic Derivative: Formulation Development and Scale-up for Health Care Applications

The novel amphiphilic polyacrylate grafted with cholesterol moieties, PAAbCH, previously synthesized, was deeply characterized and investigated in the lab and on a pre-industrial scale. Solid-state NMR analysis confirmed the polymer structure, and several water-based pharmaceutical and cosmetic products were developed. In particular, stable oil/water emulsions with vegetable oils, squalene, and ceramides were prepared, as well as hydrophilic medicated films loaded with diclofenac, providing a prolonged drug release. PAAbCH also formed polyelectrolyte hydrogel complexes with chitosan, both at the macro- and nano-scale. The results demonstrate that this polymer has promising potential as an innovative excipient, acting as a solubility enhancer, viscosity enhancer, and emulsifying agent with an easy scale-up transfer process.

A comparative study on a biodegradable hyaluronic acid microneedle patch with a needleless patch for dry skin in atopic dermatitis: a single-blinded, split-body, randomized controlled trial

To overcome interruption of skin barrier in transdermal drug delivery, the microneedle (MN) patch penetrates the barrier by punching with its MNs. Setting a needleless patch (NL patch) as the control intervention, this study assessed the efficacy of a biodegradable hyaluronic acid MN patch (BHMN patch) for atopic dermatitis (AD) patients with dry skin. Similar two AD lesions were selected from the extremities of a participant. For one lesion, a BHMN patch was attached for 6-8 h on where an aroma cream was applied (BHMN patch group). Simultaneously, an NL patch was attached on the other lesion as in the BHMN patch group (NL patch group). For 2 weeks, the interventions were conducted 3 times a week. The local scoring AD (L-SCORAD) index, the visual analog scale for pruritus and skin dryness, skin hydration, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and safety were assessed. Fifteen participants finished this trial with no dropouts. Both groups improved the L-SCORAD index after 2 weeks (p < 0.05), but the score of the BHMN patch group decreased more than that of the NL patch group (p < 0.05). The other outcomes, except for the TEWL, also showed statistical significance in intragroup comparisons. Nevertheless, none of the other outcomes showed statistical significance in intergroup comparisons. The TEWL showed no statistical significance even in intragroup comparison. Recoverable minor adverse events were reported in three cases. Considering the result of L-SCORAD index, the BHMN patch may be effective for ameliorating AD. However, a large-scale confirmatory trial is necessary to reassess other outcomes.Trial Registration: This study was registered with the Clinical Research Information Service, Republic of Korea (Submitted date: 04/01/2022, Registered date: 23/02/2022, The first participant enrollment: 01/12/2021, Registration No. KCT0007037).

Myostatin Alteration in Pigs Enhances the Deposition of Long-Chain Unsaturated Fatty Acids in Subcutaneous Fat

In animals, myostatin (MSTN) is a negative regulator that inhibits muscle growth and repair. The decreased level of functional MSTN gene expression can change the amount and proportions of fats in pigs. In this study we determined the lipidomics of subcutaneous fat in MSTN single copy mutant pigs and evaluated the variations in lipid contents of the subcutaneous fat from MSTN+/− and wild type Large White (LW) pigs via ultra-performance liquid chromatography–quadrupole/Orbitrap-mass spectrometry (MS). The results showed that the quantities of glycerolipids, sphingolipids, fatty acyls and glycerophospholipids were significantly changed, particularly, the molecular diacylglycerol in glycerolipids, long-chain unsaturated fatty acids, and ceramide non-hydroxy fatty acid-sphingosine in sphingolipids were remarkably increased in the MSTN+/− group. Due to their positive bioavailability demonstrated by previous researches, these three lipids might be beneficial for human health. Further, the results of our study confirm that MSTN participates in the regulation of fat metabolism, and reduced expression of MSTN can ultimately influence the accumulation of lipid contents in the subcutaneous fat of pigs.

Konjac Ceramide (kCer)-Mediated Signal Transduction of the Sema3A Pathway Promotes HaCaT Keratinocyte Differentiation

Simple Summary

Konjac ceramide (kCer) is a unique molecular species of plant-type ceramide, and is a potential Sema3A-like ligand of Nrp1. kCer suppresses histamine-stimulated cell migration of HaCaT keratinocytes. This effect of kCer is not due to histamine-activated GPCRs, but rather to Sema3A-Nrp1 receptor binding. The present study focused on the ability of kCer to induce cell differentiation, in addition to its anti-migratory effects. We demonstrated that the effects of kCer on cell migration and cell differentiation are perpetuated by a cascade of crosstalk between pathways downstream of Nrp1 and GPCR in HaCaT cells.

Abstract

Histamines suppress epidermal keratinocyte differentiation. Previously, we reported that konjac ceramide (kCer) suppresses histamine-stimulated cell migration of HaCaT keratinocytes. kCer specifically binds to Nrp1 and does not interact with histamine receptors. The signaling mechanism of kCer in HaCaT cells is also controlled by an intracellular signaling cascade activated by the Sema3A-Nrp1 pathway. In the present study, we demonstrated that kCer treatment induced HaCaT keratinocyte differentiation after migration of immature cells. kCer-induced HaCaT cell differentiation was accompanied by some features of keratinocyte differentiation markers. kCer induced activating phosphorylation of p38MAPK and c-Fos, which increased the protein levels of involucrin that was the latter differentiation marker. In addition, we demonstrated that the effects of both kCer and histamines are regulated by an intracellular mechanism of Rac1 activation/RhoA inhibition downstream of the Sema3A/Nrp1 receptor and histamine/GPCR pathways. In summary, the effects of kCer on cell migration and cell differentiation are regulated by cascade crosstalk between downstream Nrp1 and histamine-GPCR pathways in HaCaT cells.

Functional modification of HHCB: Strategy for obtaining environmentally friendly derivatives

Galaxolide (HHCB), one of the most widely used synthetic musks in personal care products (PCPs), has been recognized as an emerging contaminant with potential human health concerns. To overcome such adverse effects, a systematic molecular design, screening and performance evaluation approach was developed to generate functionally improved and environmentally friendly HHCB derivatives. Among the 90 designed HHCB derivatives, 15 were screened with improved functional properties (i.e., odor stability and intensity) and less environmental impacts (i.e., lower bio-toxicity, bio-accumulation ability, and mobility) using 3D-QSAR models and density functional theory methods. Their human health risks were then assessed by toxicokinetic analysis, which narrowed the candidates to four. Derivative 7, the designed molecule with the least dermal adsorption potential, was evaluated for its interaction with other PCPs additives (i.e., anti-photosensitivity materials and moisturizer) and such impacts on human health risks using molecular docking and molecular dynamic simulation. The environmental fate of Derivative 7 after transformation (i.e., photodegradation, biotransformation, and chlorination) was also discussed. Biotransformation and chlorination were recognized as optimum options for Derivative 7 mitigation. This study provided the theoretical basis for the design of functionally improved and environmentally friendly HHCB alternatives and advanced the understanding of their environmental behaviors and health risks.

Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Breaking the Itch-Scratch Cycle: Topical Options for the Management of Chronic Cutaneous Itch in Atopic Dermatitis

Chronic itch is an unpleasant sensation that triggers a desire to scratch that lasts for six weeks or more. It is a major diagnostic symptom of myriad diseases, including atopic dermatitis for which it is the most prominent feature. Chronic itch can be hugely debilitating for the sufferer, damaging in terms of both the monetary cost of treatment and its socioeconomic effects, and few treatment options exist that can adequately control it. Corticosteroids remain the first line treatment strategy for atopic dermatitis, but due to the risks associated with long-term use of corticosteroids, and the drawbacks of other topical options such as topical calcineurin inhibitors and capsaicin, topical options for itch management that are efficacious and can be used indefinitely are needed. In this review, we detail the pathophysiology of chronic pruritus, its key features, and the disease most commonly associated with it. We also assess the role of the skin and its components in maintaining a healthy barrier function, thus reducing dryness and the itch sensation. Lastly, we briefly detail examples of topical options for the management of chronic pruritus that can be used indefinitely, overcoming the risk associated with long-term use of corticosteroids.

Neurite Outgrowth and Morphological Changes Induced by 8-trans Unsaturation of Sphingadienine in kCer Molecular Species

Konjac ceramide (kCer), which consists of plant-type molecular species of characteristic shingoid bases and fatty acids, is prepared from konjac glucosylceramide GlcCer by chemoenzymatical deglucosylation. kCer activates the semaphorin 3A (Sema3A) signaling pathway, inducing collapsin response mediator protein 2 (CRMP2) phosphorylation. This results in neurite outgrowth inhibition and morphological changes in remaining long neurites in PC12 cells. Whether a specific molecular species of kCer can bind to the Sema3A receptor (Neuropilin1, Nrp1) and activate the Sema3A signaling pathway remains unknown. Here, we prepared kCer molecular species using endoglycoceramidase I-mediated deglucosylation and examined neurite outgrowth and phosphorylation of collapsin response mediator protein 2 in nerve growth factor (NGF)-primed cells. The 8-trans unsaturation of sphingadienine of kCer was essential for Sema3A-like signaling pathway activation. Conversely, 8-cis unsaturation of kCer molecular species had no effect on Sema3A-like activation, and neurite outgrowth inhibition resulted in remaining short neurites. In addition, α-hydroxylation of fatty acids was not associated with the Sema3A-like activity of the kCer molecular species. These results suggest that 8-trans or 8-cis isomerization of sphingadienine determines the specific interactions at the ligand-binding site of Nrp1.

Risk assessment of benzalkonium chloride in cosmetic products

A risk assessment of benzalkonium chloride (BAC) was conducted based upon its toxicological profile and exposure evaluation. Since 1935, BAC has been used in a wide variety of products such as disinfectants, preservatives, and sanitizers. It is well-established that BAC is not genotoxic nor does it display tumorigenic potential, but safety concerns have been raised in local usage such as for ocular and intranasal applications. The Foundation of Korea Cosmetic Industry Institute (KCII) reported that in a hair conditioner manufactured as a cosmetic or personal product in South Korea, BAC was present at concentrations of 0.5-2%. The systemic exposure dosage (SED) was determined using the above in-use concentrations and a risk assessment analysis was conducted. The Margin of Safety (MOS) values for hair conditioners were calculated to be between 621 and 2,483. The risk of certain personal and cosmetic products was also assessed based upon assumptions that BAC was present at the maximal level of regulation in South Korea and that the maximal amount was used. The MOS values for the body lotion were all above 100, regardless of the application site. Collectively, data indicate that there are no safety concerns regarding use of products that contain BAC under the current concentration restrictions, even when utilized at maximal permitted levels. However, a chronic dermal toxicity study on BAC and comprehensive dermal absorption evaluation needs to be conducted to provide a more accurate prediction of the potential health risks to humans.