Topical delivery of retinyl ascorbate co-drug

Effect of massage on retinol skin penetration

Topical administration of active substances may be promoted by optimizing not only the vehicle formulation but also the application protocol. The formulation aspects are widely studied in the literature while a few works are dedicated to the development of application methods. In this context, we studied an application protocol usable as a part of skincare routine by investigating the effect of massage on the skin penetration of retinol. Retinol is a lipophilic molecule widely used as an anti-ageing firming agent in cosmetic formulations. Massage was applied to pig skin explants mounted to Franz diffusion cells after or before the deposit of the retinol-loaded formulation. Thetype of skin massage (roll or rotary type) and its duration were varied.The massage protocol had a significant influence on retinol skin penetration. Due to its highly lipophilic character, retinol accumulated into the stratum corneum but, depending on the massage protocol, a significant retinol concentration was obtained after 4 hours in epidermis and dermis layers. Results showed that the roll-type massage was significantly more efficient than the rotary process that exhibited little effect on retinol cutaneous penetration. Such results could be interesting for the development of massage devices in association with cosmetic formulations.

Stability and Applicability of Retinyl Palmitate Loaded Beeswax Microcapsules for Cosmetic Use : Material properties and stability of microencapsulated actives

In our previous study, retinyl palmitate was successfully encapsulated by melt dispersion using waxes as shell materials. Herein, the objective of the present research is to evaluate the shelf life and kinetic release of the developed microcapsules. The study was conducted by measuring actual loading capacity over a period of time using spectroscopic analysis. The transfer percentage of particles from nonwoven facial wipes to skin-like surfaces was also investigated by simulating the rubbing mechanism with a robotic transfer replicator. Although particles stored as powder form under room temperature showed only eight days of shelf-life, particles stored as a dispersion in a refrigerator maintained 60% of the theoretical loading capacity after one month. The kinetic release profile of the particles in ethanol with shaking at 100 rpm and 37±2°C showed an initial burst in the first half an hour, followed by a sustained release. It also showed that 98% of the retinyl palmitate content released within 4 h. Particles incorporated into wet nonwoven wipes gave approximately 22% transfer to skin-like fabric. Thus, the study shows potentials of delivering skincare properties by means of retinyl palmitate capsule loaded textile substrates.

Preparation and characterization of triamterene complex with ascorbic acid derivatives

The purpose of this study was to prepare solid dispersions of triamterene (TRT) with ascorbic acid (AA) or ascorbic acid 2 glucoside (AA2G) and to evaluate their physical properties. Solid dispersions were prepared by dissolving each sample in an organic solvent and evaporation (EVP). Powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD) revealed a halo pattern for EVP1 (AA/TRT = 1/1) and EVP2 (AA2G/TRT = 1/1). In differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), endothermic peaks due to the melting of TRT and AA disappeared for EVP1 (AA/TRT = 1/1), and the melting peaks of TRT and AA2G disappeared for EVP2 (AA2G/TRT = 1/1). Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy revealed broadened peaks for EVP1 (AA/TRT = 1/1) and EVP2 (AA2G/TRT = 1/1) due to the hydroxyl groups (-OH) of AA and the amino groups (-NH2) of TRT and also revealed a peak shift due to the pteridine skeleton (C = N) of TRT. In near-infrared absorption (NIR) spectroscopy, peaks due to the hydroxyl groups (-OH) of AA and AA2G were found for EVP1 (AA/TRT = 1/1) and EVP2 (AA2G/TRT = 1/1), respectively. A peak due to the amino groups (-NH2) was evident. This suggested the formation of an evaporation, in which TRT interacted with AA or AA2G. In the dissolution test, the dissolved fraction of TRT alone after 3 min was 30%, whereas the fractions were enhanced to approximately 90% for EVP1 (AA/TRT = 1/1) and EVP2 (AA2G/TRT= 1/1). Results confirmed that dissolution properties were improved as a result of complex formation. The above findings indicated improvement the dissolution properties of TRT.

Vitamin C-squalene bioconjugate promotes epidermal thickening and collagen production in human skin

Vitamin C (Vit C) benefits to human skin physiology notably by stimulating the biosynthesis of collagen. The main cutaneous collagens are types I and III, which are less synthesized with aging. Vit C is one of the main promotors of collagen formation but it poorly bypasses the epidermis stratum corneum barrier. To address this challenge, we developed a lipophilic version of Vit C for improving skin diffusion and delivery. Vit C was covalently conjugated to squalene (SQ), a natural lipid of the skin, forming a novel Vit C-SQ derivative suitable for cream formulation. Its biological activity was investigated on human whole skin explants in an ex vivo model, through histology and protein and gene expression analyses. Results were compared to Vit C coupled to the reference lipophilic compound palmitic acid, (Vit C-Palmitate). It was observed that Vit C-SQ significantly increased epidermal thickness and preferentially favored collagen III production in human skin after application for 10 days. It also promoted glycosaminoglycans production in a higher extent comparatively to Vit C-Palmitate and free Vit C. Microdissection of the explants to separate dermis and epidermis allowed to measure higher transcriptional effects either in epidermis or in dermis. Among the formulations studied, the strongest effects were observed with Vit C-SQ.

An Efficient Approach for Lipase-Catalyzed Synthesis of Retinyl Laurate Nutraceutical by Combining Ultrasound Assistance and Artificial Neural Network Optimization

Although retinol is an important nutrient, retinol is highly sensitive to oxidation. At present, some ester forms of retinol are generally used in nutritional supplements because of its stability and bioavailability. However, such esters are commonly synthesized by chemical procedures which are harmful to the environment. Thus, this study utilized a green method using lipase as a catalyst with sonication assistance to produce a retinol derivative named retinyl laurate. Moreover, the process was optimized by an artificial neural network (ANN). First, a three-level-four-factor central composite design (CCD) was employed to design 27 experiments, which the highest relative conversion was 82.64%. Further, the optimal architecture of the CCD-employing ANN was developed, including the learning Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm, the transfer function (hyperbolic tangent), iterations (10,000), and the nodes of the hidden layer (6). The best performance of the ANN was evaluated by the root mean squared error (RMSE) and the coefficient of determination (R²) from predicting and observed data, which displayed a good data-fitting property. Finally, the process performed with optimal parameters actually obtained a relative conversion of 88.31% without long-term reactions, and the lipase showed great reusability for biosynthesis. Thus, this study utilizes green technology to efficiently produce retinyl laurate, and the bioprocess is well established by ANN-mediated modeling and optimization.

Antioxidant-based topical formulations influence on the inflammatory response of Japanese skin: A clinical study using non-invasive techniques

Cutaneous irritants exposure induces an excess of ROS in the skin and can ensue an inflammatory response. Topical antioxidant-based formulations can help to counteract ROS generation. This study evaluated the influence of antioxidant-based topical formulations on the inflammatory response of skin, using a combination of in vivo real-time non-invasive techniques. Nine test areas were defined on each volar forearm of the 25 Japanese volunteers. Measurements were performed before and after treatment with 15μL of a 5% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution and 15μL of the same based formulation or the vehicle with 1% of the antioxidants. Volunteers without antioxidant treatment showed more pronounced erythematous areas. Transepidermal water loss of areas treated with green tea polyphenol (GTP)-based formulation showed fully recovered skin. Skin barrier damage caused by repeated applications of SDS showed characteristic alterations, detectable by in vivo confocal microscopy such as desquamation, spongiosis and inflammatory infiltrates. The majority of confocal microscopy inflammation signs were found in skin without treatment followed by the vehicle. Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Coenzyme Q₁₀, GTP- and Resveratrol-based formulations reduced the anti-inflammatory cytokines release and attenuated inflammatory signs. The combination of techniques provides results that highlight the importance of antioxidant-based formulations for rapid skin recovery.

Nanostructured lipid carriers loaded with tributyrin as an alternative to improve anticancer activity of all-trans retinoic acid

OBJECTIVES

All-trans retinoic acid (ATRA) is one of the most successful examples of differentiation agents and histone deacetylase inhibitors, such as tributyrin (TB), are known for their antitumor activity and potentiating action of drugs, such as ATRA. Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) represent a promising alternative to the encapsulation of lipophilic drugs such as ATRA. This study aims to develop, characterize and evaluate the cytotoxicity of ATRA-TB-loaded NLC for cancer treatment.

METHODS

The influence of in situ formation of an ion pairing between ATRA and a lipophilic amine (benethamine) on the characteristics of NLC (size, zeta potential, encapsulation efficiency) was evaluated. TB, a butyric acid donor, was used as a component of the lipid matrix. In vitro activity on cell viability and distribution of cell cycle phases were evaluated for MCF-7, MDA-MB-231, HL-60 and Jurkat cell lines.

RESULTS

The presence of the amine significantly increased the encapsulation efficiency of ATRA in NLC. Inhibition of cell viability by TB-ATRA-loaded NLC was more pronounced than the free drug. Analysis of the distribution of cell cycle phases also showed increased activity for TB-ATRA-loaded NLC, with the clear effect of cell cycle arrest in G0/G1 phase transition. The presence of TB played an important role in the activity of the formulation.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, these findings suggest that TB-ATRA-loaded NLC represents a promising alternative to intravenous administration of ATRA in cancer treatment.

Stability, cutaneous delivery, and antioxidant potential of a lipoic acid and α-tocopherol codrug incorporated in microemulsions

The aim of this study was to assess the skin penetration, stability, and antioxidant effects of a α-tocopherol-lipoic acid codrug. To enhance penetration, we evaluated three microemulsions varying in water content and composition of the oil phase (isopropyl myristate with either monocaprylin or oleic acid). The codrug was incorporated at 1% (w/w). Codrug hydrolysis in the microemulsion increased with increases in time (up to 48 h) and formulation water content (10%-30%, w/w). Microemulsions increased the codrug delivery into viable layers of porcine ear skin by 2.9-7.8-fold compared with a control formulation (20% monocaprylin in isopropyl myristate) after 24 h. Penetration enhancement was influenced by the oil phase, with the formulation containing monocaprylin displaying the most pronounced effect. Antioxidant activity, assessed in skin bioequivalents using the thiobarbituric acid-reactive substances (TBARS) assay, demonstrated that TBARS levels decreased by 39% after treatment with the codrug-containing microemulsion compared with the unloaded formulation. In addition to the codrug, tocopherol (8.2 ± 0.6 μg/cm(2)) was detected in the viable bioequivalent tissues, suggesting that the codrug was partly hydrolyzed after 12 h. Taken together, these results support the potential of nanodispersed formulations containing a tocopherol-lipoic acid codrug to improve skin antioxidant activity.

Nanocarrier with self-antioxidative property for stabilizing and delivering ascorbyl palmitate into skin

The concept of a nanocarrier with a self-antioxidative property to deliver and stabilize a labile drug while at the same time providing a free radical scavenging activity is demonstrated. Curcumin was grafted onto a poly(vinyl alcohol) [PV(OH)] chain, and the nanocarriers fabricated from the obtained curcumin-grafted PV(OH) polymer [CUR-PV(OH)] showed a good free radical scavenging activity. Ascorbyl palmitate (AP) could be effectively loaded into the CUR-PV(OH) at 29% by weight. The CUR-PV(OH)-encapsulated AP was 77% more stable than the free (unencapsulated) AP, and 47% more stable than AP encapsulated in the control nanocarrier with no antioxidative property [cinnamoyl-grafted PV(OH); CIN-PV(OH)]. Although coencapsulation of curcumin and AP into CIN-PV(OH) showed some improvement on the AP stability, AP was more stable when encapsulated in CUR-PV(OH). Compared with the free AP, encapsulated AP within the CUR-PV(OH) nanocarriers showed not only a better penetration into pig skin dermis via hair follicle pathway followed by the release and diffusion of the AP, but also a greater AP stability after skin application. Although a proof of principle is shown for CUR-PV(OH) and AP, it is likely that other carriers of the same principal could be designed and applied to different oxidation-sensitive drugs.

Formation of ion pairing as an alternative to improve encapsulation and anticancer activity of all-trans retinoic acid loaded in solid lipid nanoparticles

This work aims to develop solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) loaded with retinoic acid (RA) to evaluate the influence of two lipophilic amines, stearylamine (SA) and benethamine (BA), and one hydrophilic, triethylamine (TA), on drug-encapsulation efficiency (EE) and cytotoxicity in cancer cell lines. The SLNs were characterized for EE, size, and zeta potential. The mean particle size decreased from 155 ± 1 nm (SLNs without amine) to 104 ± 4, 95 ± 1, and 96 ± 1 nm for SLNs prepared with SA, BA, and TA, respectively. SA-RA-loaded SLNs resulted in positively charged particles, whereas those with TA and BA were negatively charged. The EEs were significantly improved with the addition of the amines, and they increased from 36% ± 6% (without amine) to 97% ± 2%, 90% ± 2%, and 100% ± 1% for SA, TA, and BA, respectively. However, stability studies showed higher EE for BA-RA-loaded SLNs than TA-RA-loaded SLNs after 30 days. The formulations containing SA loaded or unloaded (blank SLNs) with RA were cytotoxic in normal and cancer cell lines. In contrast, the blank SLNs containing TA or BA did not show cytotoxicity in human breast adenocarcinoma cells (MCF-7), while RA-loaded SLNs with the respective amines were significantly more cytotoxic than free RA. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity of BA-RA-loaded SLNs was significantly higher than TA-RA-loaded SLNs. These findings are in agreement with the data obtained in the evaluation of subdiploid DNA content and cell-cycle analysis, which showed better anticancer activity for BA-RA-loaded SLNs than TA-RA-loaded SLNs and free RA. Taken together, these findings suggest that the BA-RA-loaded SLN formulation is a promising alternative for the intravenous administration of RA in the treatment of cancer.

In vitro human skin permeation and cutaneous metabolism of catechins from green tea extract and green tea extract-loaded chitosan microparticles

Catechins are major antioxidants in green tea (Camellia sinensis or Camellia assamica), but because they do not permeate the skin well, the application of green tea in cosmetic products has so far been limited. This study aims to evaluate the cutaneous absorption of catechins from an extract of green tea and from a green tea extract-loaded chitosan microparticle. The catechin skin metabolism was also examined. The results suggest that chitosan microparticles significantly improve the ability of catechins to permeate skin. The cutaneous metabolism of the catechins significantly affected their permeation profiles. Epicatechin (EC) and epigallocatechin (EGC) penetrated the skin more than epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and epicatechin gallate (ECG). The galloyl groups in EGCG and ECG were enzymatically hydrolysed to EGC and EC, respectively. Dehydroxylation of catechins was also observed. Chitosan microparticles effectively prevented enzymatic changes of the catechins; therefore, chitosan microparticles are here found to be the promising carriers for enhancing the skin permeation.

Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety

Aging of skin is an intricate biological process consisting of two types. While intrinsic or chronological aging is an inevitable process, photoaging involves the premature aging of skin occurring due to cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Chronological and photoaging both have clinically differentiable manifestations. Various natural and synthetic retinoids have been explored for the treatment of aging and many of them have shown histological and clinical improvement, but most of the studies have been carried out in patients presenting with photoaged skin. Amongst the retinoids, tretinoin possibly is the most potent and certainly the most widely investigated retinoid for photoaging therapy. Although retinoids show promise in the treatment of skin aging, irritant reactions such as burning, scaling or dermatitis associated with retinoid therapy limit their acceptance by patients. This problem is more prominent with tretinoin and tazarotene whereas other retinoids mainly represented by retinaldehyde and retinol are considerably less irritating. In order to minimize these side effects, various novel drug delivery systems have been developed. In particular, nanoparticles have shown a good potential in improving the stability, tolerability and efficacy of retinoids like tretinoin and retinol. However, more elaborate clinical studies are required to confirm their advantage in the delivery of topical retinoids.

Human skin penetration and distribution of nimesulide from hydrophilic gels containing nanocarriers

The objective of this work was to study the in vitro skin penetration of a drug model (nimesulide) from semi-solid topical formulations containing nanospheres, nanocapsules or nanoemulsion. Nanoprecipitation, interfacial deposition and spontaneous emulsification methods were used to prepare the nanostructured suspension. The hydrodynamic diameters were 252nm for the nanoemulsion, 277nm for the nanocapsules and 202nm for the nanospheres containing nimesulide. The different nanocarrier systems were incorporated in the hydrophilic gels and their ability of delivering the drug into the human skin were investigated using stripping technique and Franz-type diffusion cells. The amount of nimesulide released into the stratum corneum (SC) from the gel containing nanocapsules (GNM-NC) and the gel containing nanospheres (GNM-NS) was similar. On the other hand, for the gel containing nanoemulsion (GNM-NE), the nimesulide was not quantified in SC, but it has been directly permeated for the dermis. The penetration of the nimesulide using the gel containing nanocapsules (GNM-NC) was larger in the deeper skin than using the gel containing nanospheres (GNM-NS) or the one containing nanoemulsion (GNM-NE). The gels containing nanocarriers (GNM-NC, GNM-NS and GNM-NE) were able to release the drug in the viable layer of the skin, comparing to a non-particulated nimesulide-loaded formulation at the same concentration.

Physiological Role of Retinyl Palmitate in the Skin

The skin is similar to other organs in how it absorbs, stores, and metabolizes vitamin A. However, because of the anatomical location of skin and the specialized physiological roles it plays, there are ways in which the skin is rather unique. The stratified structure of the epidermis results from the orchestration of retinoid-influenced cellular division and differentiation. Similarly, many of the physiological responses of the skin, such as dermal aging, immune defense, and wound healing, are significantly affected by retinoids. While much is known about the molecular events through which retinoids affect the skin's responses, more remains to be learned. Interest in the effects of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and other retinoids on the skin, fueled in part by the promise of improved dermatologic and cosmetic products, will undoubtedly make the effects of retinoids on skin a subject for continued intense investigation.

Topical Delivery of Retinyl Ascorbate Co-Drug

Chemical and enzymatic hydrolysis of the co-drug of retinoic acid (vitamin A) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) - retinyl ascorbate (RA-AsA)--have been studied. Firstly, the amount of protein and ester hydrolysis activity was determined in crude cellular extracts from freshly excised porcine ear skin (<3 h) and stored porcine ear skin (frozen >6 months) using ethyl butyrate as model substrate. The stability of RA-AsA was then determined in the crude cell extracts with and without additional antioxidants. Lastly, the enzymatic hydrolysis of RA-AsA and retinyl-2-carboxy-2-hydroxy-ethanoate were determined by incubating with porcine liver esterase - retinol palmitate and ascorbyl palmitate were included for comparison. Freshly excised skin contained higher amounts of active proteins than previously frozen skin. RA-AsA underwent hydrolytic reduction causing the AsA moiety to disintegrate due to the presence of free radicals in the media. An intermediate was produced that seemed to be cleaved by enzymes. Addition of ascorbic acid, as antioxidant, to the media of crude protein extracts decelerated the hydrolysis rate. This was supported when RA-AsA and retinyl-2-carboxy-2-hydroxy-ethanoate were incubated separately with pure esterase. There was approximately 5-fold more soluble protein per ml of cytosol in the fresh skin compared to the stored skin. Therefore, the amount of protein present within approximately 1.5 cm(2) of skin (average diffusion area in the Franz cells used in our skin penetration studies) was 0.06 mg cm(-2) and 0.01 mg cm(-2) for fresh and stored extracts, respectively.

Influence of poly(ethylene glycol)-α-cyclodextrin complexes on stabilization and transdermal permeation of ascorbic acid

The present study was conducted to investigate the effect of poly(ethylene glycol)-alpha-cyclodextrin (alpha-CD) complexes on stabilization and cutaneous permeation of ascorbic acid from specially prepared transdermal patches. Poly(ethylene glycol) citrate (6-armPEG) and its inclusion complex with alpha-CD were prepared and used for preparation of the transdermal patches. Duro-Tak 87-2979 was taken as an adhesive matrix in combination with ascorbic acid. A diffusion cell with an artificial membrane was used to evaluate the absorption of ascorbic acid from the patches. The influence of drug release of alpha-CD and two types of its PEG complexes (as the novel permeation enhancers) was tested. The 6-armPEG-alpha-CD complex consisting of a PEG-citric acid ester at a concentration of 0.08-0.1% (w/v) is a suitable stabilizer for ascorbic acid during UV assay. The release studies showed that the type of enhancer is important in diffusion of the drug across membrane. Furthermore, the diffusion of ascorbic acid was considerably enhanced in the presence of 6-armPEG-alpha-CD complex. Inclusion complexes of 6-armPEG with alpha-CD at a concentration of 0.08-0.1% (w/v) is a suitable stabilizer for UV method of assay. The present data suggest that 6-armPEG-alpha-CD complex is also useful in enhancing the release of ascorbic acid from the acrylic type pressure sensitive adhesives.

Optical investigations to avoid the disturbing influences of furrows and wrinkles quantifying penetration of drugs and cosmetics into the skin by tape stripping

Furrows and wrinkles, as typical structures of human skin, represent a reservoir for topically applied substances. This reservoir can influence penetration experiments of topically applied substances into the stratum corneum by tape stripping. Optical methods such as laser-scanning microscopy, optical coherent tomography, and the microscopical investigation of histological sections obtained by biopsies were used to check a special protocol, which avoids these potential disturbances. The use of a transparent adhesive film with high flexibility and the realization of an intense contact to the stretched skin by pressing the tape with a roll, moved laterally on the tape, are the prerequisites to obtain correct data. The application of this experimental technique and the performance of tape stripping allow the determination of the horny layer profile and the local distribution of topically applied substance, undisturbed by the characteristic structure of the natural skin. These results demonstrate that the presented tape stripping procedure is a valuable tool to determine, quantitatively, the penetration and the bioavailability of drugs and cosmetics inside the human stratum corneum, in relation to the horny layer profile.

Topical Delivery of Retinyl Ascorbate Co-Drug

Retinyl ascorbate (RA-AsA), an ester co-drug of vitamins A (RA) and C (AsA), is proposed as a topical antioxidant/cell division regulator for reducing UV-induced generation of free radicals and disrupted dermal cell growth. The efficacy of dermatological agents is influenced by their retention within the skin, which is increased by the interaction with skin components. Keratin is the major protein (approximately 95%) in the skin, and this paper reports the binding of RA-AsA, RA, AsA, retinol, ascorbic acid palmitate and retinol palmitate to three tissues-human callus, pig ear skin and bovine horn keratin. Tissue samples were incubated with solutions of compounds and the uptake measured as the ratio of bound/free compound at equilibrium. Binding to keratin was assessed using delipidised tissue, and was much higher for the polar compounds, suggesting dipolar/H-bonding interaction. Binding strength was ranked as human > porcine > bovine, but there was no distinction for highly lipophilic compounds. The binding characteristic of native tissues was complicated by lipid content of the tissues. There seemed to be a dual effect. The binding of very lipophilic materials increased with lipid content, implying that a substantial amount is dissolved in the lipid matrix. For highly polar AsA, lipid content decreased the binding, suggesting that the lipid reduced the strong polar interactions with skin protein/keratin.