Natural surfactant-based topical vehicles for two model drugs: Influence of different lipophilic excipients on in vitro/in vivo skin performance

Emulsions with alkyl polyglucosides as carriers for off-label topical spironolactone - safety and stability evaluation

Androgens play an important role in the pathogenesis of acne. Being an anti-androgen drug with many side effects, spironolactone has recently been used in dermatology as a topical therapy for acne. Off-label drug use in dermatology is common, although those drugs are basically available as compounded formulations; the choice of a proper vehicle is often neglected in that case. Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a FDA certified class of polyethylene glycol (PEG)-free surfactants produced from the renewable resources. Following the preformulation tests, two different APG emulsifiers were used in this study to stabilize emulsions as carriers for topical spironolactone. Assessment of the physical stability of emulsions per se and after incorporation of 5% of spironolactone was performed using polarization microscopy, electrical conductivity and pH measurements. The skin irritation profile and moisturizing potential was assessed in vivo on human volunteers. APG-based emulsions per se and with 5% of spironolactone showed acceptable skin irritation profiles and significant potential for skin hydration, which is important in acne treatment. Good physical stability and satisfying preliminary safety profile of all investigated samples were also obtained showing that moisturizing APG-based emulsions could be promoted as vehicles for off-label topical spironolactone.

Systematic Investigation of the Effect of Non-Ionic Emulsifiers on Skin by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy-A Comprehensive Lipid Analysis

Non-ionic emulsifiers are commonly found in existing pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and have been widely employed to enhance the penetration and permeation of active ingredients into the skin. With the potential of disrupting skin barrier function and increasing fluidity of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, we herein examined the effects of two kinds of non-ionic emulsifiers on intercellular lipids of skin, using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with lipid signals on skin CRS spectrum. Non-ionic emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and sorbitan fatty acid esters were studied to obtain a deep understanding of the mechanism between non-ionic emulsifiers and SC lipids. Emulsifier solutions and dispersions were prepared and applied onto excised porcine skin. Water and sodium laureth sulfate solution (SLS) served as controls. SC lipid signals were analysed by CRS regarding lipid content, conformation and lateral packing order. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) sorbitan esters revealed no alteration of intercellular lipid properties while PEG-20 ethers appeared to have the most significant effects on reducing lipid content and interrupting lipid organization. In general, the polyoxyethylene chain and alkyl chain of PEG derivative emulsifiers might indicate their ability of interaction with SC components. HLB values remained critical for complete explanation of emulsifier effects on skin lipids. With this study, it is possible to characterize the molecular effects of non-ionic emulsifiers on skin lipids and further deepen the understanding of enhancing substance penetration with reduced skin barrier properties and increased lipid fluidity.

Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non-ionic emulsifier-CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin.

METHODS

Organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids-FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity-AA (using DPPH test) during 180 days. In vivo study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24 h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH after 28 days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7 days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Investigated cosmetic cream-CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico-chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25 ± 0.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. In vivo investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14 days ΔEC was 18.52 ± 11.51 and after 28 days of applications 16.52 ± 9.36) during 28 day-study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7 days ΔMI was -31.40 ± 16.50).

CONCLUSION

Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and/or treatment of oxidative stress-related skin changes and/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin. RÉSUMÉ: OBJECTIF Le but de l'étude était la caractérisation in vitro et in vivo d'une crème cosmétique contenant 6 % d'extrait normalisé de pomme sauvage, stabilisée par un émulsifiant non ionique conventionnel-CEW, afin de déterminer l'influence des émulsifiants (conventionnels vs biodégradables) sur les caractéristiques des crèmes et les effets sur la peau. MÉTHODES: Des analyses organoleptiques et physico-chimiques (pH et conductivité électrique) ont été effectuées, la détermination de la teneur en acides de fruits et en acides gras polyinsaturés (par CLHP), et l'estimation de sa teneur en activité antioxydante (AA) (à l'aide du test DPPH) pendant 180 jours. L'étude in vivo comprenait les examens suivants : dépistage du profil d'innocuité (après application de crèmes sous occlusion pendant 24 h sur la peau humaine); potentiel d'hydratation de la peau, perte d'eau transépidermique (PETE), pH de la peau après 28 jours d'application de la crème et efficacité de l'hypopigmentation après 7 jours d'application de la crème sur une hyperpigmentation de la peau induite artificiellement. RÉSULTATS: La crème cosmétique-CEW étudiée a montré des caractéristiques organoleptiques, physico-chimiques, une stabilité, une teneur en AG (0,13 %) et en AA (19,25 ± 0,67 % RSC) satisfaisantes après préparation, qui sont demeurées inchangées au cours de la période de l'étude. L'étude in vivo a révélé l'absence d'irritation cutanée après l'application de CEW sous occlusion. Une augmentation de l'hydratation de la peau (après 14 jours de DEC était de 18,52 ± 11,51 et après 28 jours d'applications de 16,52 ± 9,36) pendant l'étude de 28 jours, avec une PETE et des valeurs de pH cutané inchangées, a été démontrée. Une diminution de l'indice de mélanine a été mise en évidence également (après 7 jours, ΔMI était de 31,40 ± 16,50).

CONCLUSION

La crème cosmétique stabilisée par un émulsifiant conventionnel a montré un meilleur potentiel antioxydant et des effets d'hydratation et d'hypopigmentation plus faibles par rapport à la crème de même composition mais stabilisée par des émulsifiants biodégradables. D'après les données précédentes, la crème cosmétique étudiée pourrait être considérée comme un produit cosmétique moderne, stable, sûr et efficace dans la prévention et/ou le traitement des changements et/ou dommages cutanés liés au stress oxydatif, pour l'hydratation de la peau sèche, voire irritée, ainsi que pour éclaircir la peau hyperpigmentée.

Lamellar liquid crystals maintain keratinocytes' membrane fluidity: An AFM qualitative and quantitative study

Despite extensive investigations of lamellar liquid crystals for dermal application, the effects of these systems at the cellular level are still not well elucidated. The key aim of this study was to determine the elasticity and morphological features of keratinocytes after exposure to a lamellar liquid crystal system (LLCS) using atomic force microscopy (AFM) as the method of choice. Prior to AFM assessment, a cell proliferation test and light plus fluorescence imaging were applied to determine the sub-toxic concentration of LLCS. According to the AFM results, slightly altered morphology was observed in the case of fixed keratinocytes, while an intact morphology was visualized on live cells. From the quantitative study, decreased Young's moduli were determined for fixed cells (i.e., 8.6 vs. 15.2 MPa and 1.3 vs. 2.9 MPa for ethanol or PFA-fixed LLCS-treated vs. control cells, respectively) and live cells (i.e., ranging from 0.6 to 2.8 for LLCS-treated vs. 1.1-4.5 MPa for untreated cells), clearly demonstrating increased cell elasticity. This is related to improved membrane fluidity as a consequence of interactions between the acyl chains of cell membrane phosphatidylcholine and those of LLCS. What seems to be of major importance is that the study confirms the potential clinical relevance of such systems in treatment of aged skin with characteristically more rigid epithelial cells.

Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy

We report a novel Raman technique that allows fast and reliable ex vivo assessment of the irritability of personal care cleansing products to the skin in terms of the molecular-level effects such as retention of water by corneocytes, change in the packing order and content of intercellular lipids, and the structure of keratin. We test this technique for the single surfactants (dodecyl glucoside, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, lauramidopropyl betaine) that are typically used in personal care, as well as on three types of commercial soap bars (“superfat”, “syndet”, and “combar”). We find that soaking of the skin for prolonged time in pure water can cause unfolding of keratin, which is commonly considered as a signature of “harshness” when dealing with the surfactant formulations. Moreover, molecular-level signatures of irritability of the test surfactants and soaps at brief (10 min) exposure times do not follow the trend expected from their critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and collagen swelling. In particular, dodecyl glucoside has positive impact on the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) and apparent detergency properties (solubilizes lipids without affecting their packing order). We also find that two qualitatively different soap bars (“superfat” and “syndet”) are similarly mild under the conditions studied, while the “combar” soap has detergency properties. These results demonstrate that to improve methodology of predicting irritability of a surfactant-based formulation, we need to study more systematically the molecular-level responses of the SC to exposure.

Standardized extract of wild apple fruit in alkyl-polyglucoside-based cosmetic cream - estimation of stability, safety, antioxidant activity and efficiency

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of wild apple fruit water extract, containing 3.5% of alpha-hydroxyacids-AHAs and polyphenolic compounds, stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers.

METHODS

In vitro characterization of cream included organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis, antioxidant activity-AA estimation (using DPPH test) during 180 days of storage at 22±2°C and determination of cosmetic active substances content-AHAs (using HPLC analysis). In vivo estimation of skin irritation potential after creams application under occlusion during 24h was investigated employing the biophysical methods on 12 healthy volunteers; hydration efficiency, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH, erythema-EI and melanin index-MI on 10 healthy volunteers after 28 days of cream application and bleaching efficiency on 10 healthy volunteers after 7 days of cream application after artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Investigated cosmetic cream was pale beige color, odorless, semi-solid consistency and homogeneous, with pH values of 6.53±0.14, electrical conductivity above 50 μS/cm and AA of 24.96%RSC after preparation and these characteristics were stable during investigated period. In vivo measurements revealed absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion, which was part of it's safety profile. Increase of skin hydration after 14 days of cream application was 17.28±12.23 and after 28 days 21.19±7.59. In addition, in performed experiment TEWL and skin pH values during cream application remained unchanged. Cream application after artificial hyperpigmentation induced decrease of MI (∆MI after 7 days was -45.30±18.55) CONCLUSION: Formulated cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit water extract and stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers demonstrated good stability, acceptable level of in vitro antioxidant activity, absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion and positive effects of cream on human skin after application (hydrating and bleaching effects). All mentioned properties make the cream suitable for possible usage as cosmetic product for preventing the skin damages caused by oxidative stress, for moisturizing the dry skin and bleaching of skin hyperpigmentation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Critical quality attributes, in vitro release and correlated in vitro skin permeation-in vivo tape stripping collective data for demonstrating therapeutic (non)equivalence of topical semisolids: A case study of "ready-to-use" vehicles

This work aimed to prove the ability of "ready-to-use" topical vehicles based on alkyl polyglucoside-mixed emulsifier (with/without co-solvent modifications) to replace the conventionally used pharmacopoeial bases (e.g., non-ionic hydrophilic cream) in compounding practice. For this purpose, considering the regulatory efforts to establish alternative, scientifically valid methods for evaluating therapeutic equivalence of topical semisolids, we performed a comparative assessment of microstructure, selected critical quality attributes (CQAs) and in vitro/in vivo product performances, by utilizing aceclofenac as a model drug. The differences in composition between investigated samples have imposed remarkable variances in monitored CQAs (particularly in the amount of aceclofenac dissolved, rheological properties and water distribution mode), reflecting the distinct differences in microstructure formed, as partially observed by polarization microscopy and confocal Raman spectral imaging. Although not fully indicative of the in vivo performances, in vitro release data (vertical diffusion vs. immersion cells) proved the microstructure peculiarities, asserting the rheological properties as decisive factor for obtained liberation profiles. Contrary, in vitro permeation results obtained using pig ear epidermis correlated well with in vivo dermatopharmacokinetic data and distinguished unequivocally between tested formulations, emphasizing the importance of skin/vehicle interactions. In summary, suggested multi-faceted approach can provide adequate proof on topical semisolids therapeutic equivalence or lack thereof.

An Overview of Novel Surfactants for Formulation of Cosmetics with Certain Emphasis on Acidic Active Substances

Novel surfactants which are nowadays available for incorporation into various formulations of personal care and cosmetic products are numerous, implying a permanent need for their classification. This overview provides essential information relating to synthesis, basic physicochemical characteristics, application and other relevant data on surfactants currently used in cosmetic products. In the second part of the paper an outline of acidic active substances with significant application in cosmetic products is given, as well as the problems that arise during preparation/manufacture of the containing formulations, accompanied with the review of scientific publications and other available reliable data dealing with the incorporation of these actives in the cosmetic formulations stabilized with novel (mainly natural) surfactants.

The influence of microemulsion structure on their skin irritation and phototoxicity potential

The purpose of this study was to examine skin irritation and phototoxicity potentials of several microemulsions (ME), all comprising approximately the same percentage of surfactant mixture, but varying oil/water content and consequently inner structure being either droplet-like (o/w ME, o/w ME carbomer, w/o ME and w/o ME white wax) or lamellar (gel-like ME). Two different in vitro methods were used: MTT assay (performed either on reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) or NCTC 2544 cells) and pig ear test. Neither assay revealed the difference among ME with droplet-like structure. Then again, pig ear test and MTT assay performed on RHE indicated that gel-like ME is more irritant compared to other tested ME, whereas no difference among formulations were observed by MTT assay on NCTC 2544 cells. The reasonable explanation is destruction and consequently uniform structure of ME upon dilution that is inevitable for testing on cell cultures. The results of phototoxicity test again indicated the increased potential of gel-like ME to cause adverse effects on skin. It can be concluded that for ME consisting of the same amount of identical surfactants but having different structure the latter represent a crucial factor that determines their dermal toxicity.

Overcoming the cutaneous barrier with microemulsions

Microemulsions are fluid and isotropic formulations that have been widely studied as delivery systems for a variety of routes, including the skin. In spite of what the name suggests, microemulsions are nanocarriers, and their use as topical delivery systems derives from their multiple advantages compared to other dermatological formulations, such as ease of preparation, thermodynamic stability and penetration-enhancing properties. Composition, charge and internal structure have been reported as determinant factors for the modulation of drug release and cutaneous and transdermal transport. This manuscript aims at reviewing how these and other characteristics affect delivery and make microemulsions appealing for topical and transdermal administration, as well as how they can be modulated during the formulation design to improve the potential and efficacy of the final system.

Natural polymer-stabilized multiple water-in-oil-in-water emulsions: a novel dermal drug delivery system for 5-fluorouracil

Objectives

The aim of this study was to create multiple water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions with an increased long-term stability as skin delivery systems for the hydrophilic model drug 5-fluorouracil.

Methods

Multiple W/O/W emulsions were prepared in a one-step emulsification process, and were characterized regarding particle size, microstructure and viscosity. In-vitro studies on porcine skin with Franz-type diffusion cells, tape stripping experiments and attenuated total reflectance-fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) were performed.

Key findings

The addition of Solagum AX, a natural polymer mixture of acacia and xanthan gum, led to multiple W/O/W emulsions with a remarkably increased long-term stability in comparison to formulations without a thickener. The higher skin diffusion of 5-fluorouracil from the multiple emulsions compared with an O/W-macroemulsion could be explained by ATR-FTIR. Shifts to higher wave numbers and increase of peak areas of the asymmetric and symmetric CH2 stretching vibrations confirmed a transition of parts of the skin lipids from an ordered to a disordered state after impregnation of porcine skin with the multiple emulsions.

Conclusions

Solagum AX is highly suitable for stabilization of the created multiple emulsions. Moreover, these formulations showed superiority over a simple O/W-macroemulsion regarding skin permeation and penetration of 5-fluorouracil.

Alkyl Poly Glucosides (APGs) Surfactants and Their Properties: A Review

Alkyl polyglucosides are non-ionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophilic saccharide moiety and a hydrophobic fatty alkyl chain. They are synthesized from renewable raw materials and have excellent ecotoxicological profiles and are readily biodegradable. The alkyl polyglucosides are mixtures of homologues, anomers and isomers. The alkyl polyglucosides with a longer alkyl chain biodegrade faster than those with a shorter one. The short to medium alkyl chain containing alkyl polyglucosides are water soluble. They exhibit favorable wetting and surface tension reduction, electrolyte and hard water tolerance, great stability in wide pH range, synergism with other surfactants and act as hydrotropes and dispersants. The dermatological, toxicological, mildness and high compatibility to skin make alkyl polyglucosides superior to all other existing surfactants. They show good functionality in various applications like detergents, food emulsifiers, cosmetic surfactants, industrial emulsifiers and pharmaceutical granulating agents.

Cutaneous delivery of α-tocopherol and lipoic acid using microemulsions: influence of composition and charge

OBJECTIVES

To assess whether the composition and charge of microemulsions affect their ability to simultaneously deliver α-tocopherol and lipoic acid into viable skin layers.

METHODS

α-Tocopherol and lipoic acid were added (1.1 and 0.5% w/w, respectively) to decylglucoside-based microemulsions containing mono-dicaprylin. Microemulsions containing surfactant : oil : water (w/w/w) at 60 : 30 : 10 (ME-O) and 46 : 23 : 31 (ME-W), as well as a cationic form of ME-W containing 1% phytosphingosine (ME-Wphy) were characterized, and their ability to disrupt the skin barrier and deliver the antioxidants in vitro in the skin was evaluated. Antioxidant activity in ME-Wphy-treated skin was assessed using the thiobarbituric acid-reactive substances (TBARS) assay.

KEY FINDINGS

The internal phase diameters of microemulsions ranged between 42 and 55 nm; phytosphingosine addition and pH adjustment to 5.0 increased zeta potential from -4.3 to +29.1 mV. ME-O displayed w/o structure, whereas ME-W and ME-Wphy were consistent with o/w. Microemulsions affected skin electrical resistance and transepidermal water loss, but did not affect lipoic acid penetration. α-Tocopherol delivery increased following the order ME-O < ME-W < ME-Wphy. ME-Wphy presented suitable short-term stability. The antioxidants delivered by ME-Wphy decreased TBARS cutaneous levels.

CONCLUSIONS

Even though microemulsion structure only affected tocopherol penetration, delivered levels of both antioxidants were sufficient for a decrease in TBARS, supporting their use for enhanced protection.

Lamellar liquid crystalline phases for cutaneous delivery of Paclitaxel: impact of the monoglyceride

PURPOSE

To develop liquid crystalline phases with monoglycerides, and assess whether the monoglyceride type favors cutaneous over transdermal paclitaxel delivery.

METHODS

BRIJ-based lamellar phases were prepared with 0.5% paclitaxel and 20% of either monocaprylin (LP-MC), monomyristolein (LP-MM) or monoolein (LP-MO). Skin electrical resistance, drug release and cutaneous delivery in vitro and in vivo were assessed. Viability of skin equivalents and release of IL-1α were assessed as indexes of irritation potential.

RESULTS

An inverse relationship between monoglyceride acyl chain length and amount of paclitaxel delivered was observed. Although the largest paclitaxel amounts were delivered by LP-MC, all formulations delivered higher levels of drug in the skin (56-64-fold) than across the tissue. The superiority of LP-MC seems related to a stronger decrease in skin resistance (as an index of permeability), and not to increased drug release. LP-MC displayed similar penetration-enhancing ability in vivo, and a much lower irritation potential than Triton-X100 (a moderate irritant), leading to 3-fold higher skin equivalent viability and release of 60-fold less IL-1α.

CONCLUSIONS

Even though LP-MC delivered the largest amounts of paclitaxel, all formulations provided similar cutaneous/transdermal delivery ratios, suggesting that changing the monoglyceride acyl chain length did not affect the balance between cutaneous and transdermal delivery.

Decylglucoside-based microemulsions for cutaneous localization of lycopene and ascorbic acid

Cutaneous delivery of combinations of antioxidants offers the possibility of enhanced protection against UV-radiation. In this study, we investigated the potential of sugar-based microemulsions containing monoglycerides to promote simultaneous cutaneous delivery of lycopene and ascorbic acid, and increase tissue antioxidant activity. Lycopene and ascorbic acid were incorporated (0.04% and 0.2% (w/w), respectively) in decylglucoside-based microemulsions containing isopropyl myristate mixed with monocaprylin (ME-MC), monolaurin (ME-ML) or monoolein (ME-MO) as oil phase. The microemulsions increased lycopene delivery into porcine ear skin by 3.3- to 8-fold compared to a drug solution. The effect of microemulsions on ascorbic acid cutaneous delivery was more modest (1.5-3-fold), and associated with an approximately 2-fold increase in transdermal delivery. According to their penetration-enhancing ability, the microemulsions were ranked ME-MC>ME-MO>ME-ML. This superiority of ME-MC coincided with a stronger effect in decreasing skin electrical resistance. After 18 h of treatment, the viability of bioengineered skin treated with ME-MC was 2.2-times higher compared to Triton-X100 (moderate irritant), demonstrating that ME-MC is less cytotoxic. Skin treatment with ME-MC containing both antioxidants increased the tissue antioxidant activity by 10.2-fold, but no synergism between the antioxidants was observed.

Behavior of the amphiphile CHAPS alone and in combination with the biopolymer inulin in water and isopropanol-water media

Self-aggregation of the zwitterionic surfactant 3-[(3-cholamidopropyl)dimethylammonio]-1-propanesulfonate (CHAPS) in water and isopropanol-water media, and interaction of the amphiphile with the biopolymer inulin in these media were investigated. The micellar properties of the zwitterionic surfactant and its associated interfacial and bulk properties along with the related energetic, and aggregation number were determined. The different stages of interaction of the CHAPS-inulin combines were identified and assessed. The complexes were formed and aggregated in solution at different stages of their molecular compositions. The aggregated sizes were determined by dynamic light scattering study and the morphology in the solvent removed states were examined using scanning electron microscope and transmission electron microscope techniques. The results witnessed formation of ensembles of varied and striking patterns.