Advanced chemical peels: Phenol-croton oil peel

Photoaging and cosmeceutical solutions in sun-overexposed countries: The experience of Australia and Brazil

Skin aging is the result of physiological changes determined by genetically driven processes and intrinsic factors, and exacerbated by a combination of multiple environmental factors, the main one being sun exposure. The effects of photoaging are particularly apparent on the face, where the appearance of aging signs can have a significant impact on the emotions conveyed and well-being. Photoprotection and facial skin care for managing photoaging signs are thus of particular importance for both physical and mental health. Countries, like Australia and Brazil, where the level of sun exposure is high and the populations have predominantly outdoor lifestyles, are particularly aware of the harms of photoaging and have implemented several measures to help reduce the risk of skin cancer in their populations. However, sun-seeking behaviours are difficult to change, and it takes time before interventions provide perceptible results. Australia still has some of the highest skin cancer incidence and mortality rates in the world. Solutions that target individuals can also be used for minimizing the clinical signs of facial aging and for improving skin quality, with the ultimate aim being not only to improve the appearance of the skin but also to mitigate the occurrence of pre-malignant and malignant lesions. This review summarizes the features of facial skin photoaging in photo-exposed populations, based on evidence gained from studies of Australian individuals, and discusses the various available solutions for skin photoaging, in particular those that are most popular in Brazil, which is a country with many years of experience in managing photoaged skin.

A 15% Trichloroacetic Acid + 3% Glycolic Acid Chemical Peel Series Improves Appearance of Hand Lentigines: An Evaluator-Blinded, Split-Hand Prospective Trial

BACKGROUND

Improving the appearance of lentigines on the hands is a key component to hand rejuvenation. Soft tissue fillers revolumize hands, but do not address pigmentary changes. OBJECTIVE: This study investigated the effiacy of a 15% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) + 3% glycolic acid (GA) combination peel in improvement of appearance of hand lentigines.

METHODS

A prospective evaluator-blinded, split-hand study was performed using a 15% TCA + 3% GA peel to treat patients with hand lentigines. Subjects received a total of 3 treatments at 4-week intervals on 1 hand, with the other hand serving as an untreated control. Final photographs were taken 12 weeks after the last treatment. Two blinded board-certified dermatologists graded improvement in hand lentigines using a 5-point scale.

RESULTS

Eighteen of 20 patients completed the study (90%). The mean age was 64.4 years (SE 1.6, range 51-71). The mean pain scores were 3.8 (SE 0.4) on a 10-point scale (1 = no pain, 10 = extremely painful). Blinded evaluators correctly identified the after-treatment photographs in 16 patients (88%). Physician and patient-graded mean improvement of lentigines was significant for treated versus control hands ( p < .01). No adverse events were noted.

CONCLUSION

A series of three 15% TCA + 3% GA peels are effective and safe in the treatment of hand lentigines.

Dermatological ultrasound in assessing skin aging

Ultrasonography (US) has emerged as a pivotal tool in Dermatology since its inaugural use in 1979. Its evolution encompasses technological advancements, higher frequencies, and diverse applications in clinical, surgical, and research aspects. The discussion centers on its crucial role in assessing skin aging through various parameters such as skin thickness, subepidermal low echogenicity band (SLEB) characterization, and echogenicity assessment. This analysis can help guide interventions in a more personalized manner for each patient and assess the effectiveness of cosmetics and procedures. Despite its widespread utility, challenges persist, including discrepancies in research outcomes, operator dependence, inability to detect minute lesions, and measurement variations throughout the day. Combining US with complementary methodologies is advocated for a better understanding of skin aging in vivo. The cost-effectiveness and non-invasiveness of the US emphasize its promising future in dermatology, but ongoing research remains imperative to enhance its accuracy and expand its applications.

Cosmetic Dermatology Concerns in Older Adults

It is important to understand that each layer of facial tissue, from the underlying facial skeleton to the overlying skin, undergoes significant changes during the aging process. Bony support is lost along the mandible and maxilla and the orbital aperture widens. Superficial and deep fat pads undergo volume loss and migration and the overlying skin begins to reveal signs of both intrinsic aging with skin laxity and fine rhytids as well as extrinsic aging in the form of coarse, deeper rhytids and dyspigmentation.

Update on Chemical Peels

Chemical peeling is a procedure used for cosmetic improvement of the skin or treatment of some medical skin disorders, by the application of chemical exfoliant. In spite of a long history of clinical use of chemical peels, understanding of the science behind the procedure is still evolving. In this article, we review new concepts, understandings, and publications in the field of chemical peels.

Phenol-Croton Oil Chemical Peeling Induces Durable Improvement of Constitutional Periorbital Dark Circles

BACKGROUND

Constitutional periorbital dark circles (PDC) are common in skin of color and represent a therapeutic challenge.

OBJECTIVE

To summarize the experience of the International Peeling Society on the safety and effectiveness of deep chemical peeling in the treatment of constitutional PDC.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Multi-institutional, retrospective case series (1990-2020) of constitutional PDC treated by deep chemical peeling. Descriptive analysis by age, sex, Fitzpatrick phototype, phenol-croton formula, degree and durability of improvement, and complications.

RESULTS

Fifty-five phenol-croton oil peels were performed in 52 patients: 3 patients received a second peel for periorbital rhytids 72 to 84 months after the first peel. 92% (48/52) of patients were women; the median age was 46 years (range, 23-68 years). 89% (46/52) of patients were Fitzpatrick III-IV. Most common formula included phenol 60% to 65% and croton oil 0.6% to 0.7%. 89% (49/55) of peels demonstrated >50% clinical improvement. The median duration of improvement was 24 months (range, 1.5-168 months), and 69% (36/52) of patients demonstrated ongoing improvement at the last follow-up. 4% (2/55) of peels exhibited complications of persistent erythema that resolved without scarring.

CONCLUSION

Based on its safety and effectiveness, deep chemical peels are a treatment of choice for constitutional PDC.

Chemical peels for atrophic acne scarring: Evolution of peel types and methods

Acne vulgaris is a common condition among those of adolescent age. Prolonged inflammation associated with the disease can result in substantial scaring which is detrimental to both the physical and psychological well-being of the patient. Chemical peels are a commonly used treatment modality for acne scarring that is widely available and can be administered with a low associated cost. This article aims to illustrate the current best practice and highlight new advances in chemical peeling in the treatment of acne scarring.

Helium Plasma Dermal Resurfacing With and Without Concurrent Aesthetic Surgery of the Face and Neck: A Retrospective Review

Background

Helium plasma dermal resurfacing (HPDR) is an emerging off-label use for an existing FDA-approved device.

Objectives

Retrospective evaluation of patient satisfaction and adverse events (AEs) following facial skin resurfacing with HPDR technology.

Methods

Single-site, retrospective review of 301 patient charts following HPDR treatment of the face. Patient satisfaction data were collected during review of medical records. AE data were analyzed to determine the effects of demographic, procedural, and posttreatment variables on the presence or absence of AEs.

Results

HPDR was performed concurrently with other facial/non-facial surgical procedures in 193 of 301 patients (64.1%) including over undermined facial skin in 58 patients (19.3%) during rhytidectomy. No serious AEs were observed. Nonserious AEs were noted, however, in 20 patients (7.3%) and included erythema/prolonged erythema, hyperpigmentation, milia, slow healing, and upper lip hypertrophic scar. Among the 288 patients returning for follow-up (mean 2 months postprocedure), satisfaction with HPDR treatment results was documented in 275 patients (95.5%); the remaining 13 patients' charts did not reference satisfaction or dissatisfaction, and no AEs were recorded for this patient subgroup.

Conclusions

This retrospective study supports the use and safety of HPDR technology for facial skin rejuvenation; no serious AEs and relatively few nonserious AEs were observed following either sole modality HPDR or HPDR with concurrent treatment of undermined skin tissue during rhytidectomy procedures. Patient satisfaction and observed results are comparable to full-field laser skin resurfacing treatments.

Level of Evidence 3

Botany, traditional uses, phytochemistry, pharmacological and toxicological effects of Croton tiglium Linn.: a comprehensive review

OBJECTIVES

Croton tiglium Linn. (Euphorbiaceae) is an ancient medicinal plant that has been used for a long time, which is widely distributed in tropical and subtropical regions. And it is widely used for defecation, induced labour, treatment of gastrointestinal diseases, headache, as well as rheumatoid arthritis.

KEY FINDINGS

Approximately 150 compounds have been isolated and identified from the seeds, stems, leaves and branches of C. tiglium, including fatty acids, terpenoids, alkaloids, the plants proteins and other types of components. Based on a wide range of biological properties, C. tiglium has a wide range of pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, anti-HIV, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects.

SUMMARY

The review aims to provide a critical and comprehensive evaluation of the botany, phytochemistry, pharmacology and toxicity of C. tiglium, with a vision for promoting further pharmaceutical research to explore its complete potential for better clinical application. The tigliane diterpenoids have been the most studied compounds isolated from C. tiglium, which showing a variety of biological activities, but there is insufficient evidence to explain the mechanism of action. In addition, C. tiglium may have potential toxic effects, and it is necessary to reduce the toxic effects to ensure the safety of clinical medication, which may promote the discovery and development of new drugs.

Cosmetic dermatology in menopause

ABSTRACT

Skin changes that accompany aging lead many to seek treatments that restore a more youthful appearance. Common issues of concern include skin tone, wrinkles, skin thinning, sagging, laxity and decreased elasticity, and hollowing of the face. This work discusses these concerns and their anatomic bases and highlights evidence for a causal role played by menopause-associated hormonal changes where such evidence exists. In addition, treatment options are discussed, with an emphasis on minimally invasive approaches. A variety of modalities are discussed, including botulinum toxins, fillers, multiple types of lasers, radiofrequency devices, focused ultrasound, chemical peels, and thread lifts. These interventions, often in combination, can achieve goals of patients seeking aesthetic rejuvenation.

Characterization of the Activity of Croton tiglium Oil in Hetter's Very Heavy Phenol-Croton Oil Chemical Peels

BACKGROUND

Croton oil (CO) is used by dermatologists and plastic surgeons in deep chemical peels. It is mixed with phenol, water, and a soap in Baker-Gordon's or Hetter's formulas. There is controversy as to whether CO or phenol is the active agent in the dermal effect of deep chemical peels.

OBJECTIVE

To better clarify the role of CO in deep peels, by identification of active compounds in commercially available CO in the United States and biological effects in vivo.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry on CO and a domestic pig model experiment using 3 different formulas: G1: 5% Septisol (SEP), G2: 1.6% croton oil in 35% phenol with 5% SEP, and G3: 35% phenol with 5% SEP.

RESULTS

Liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry indicated the presence of phorbol esters. G1 was null overall. Extent of the coagulative necrosis: G2 > G3. Vascular ectasia: G2 > G3. Inflammation pattern: intense neutrophilic inflammatory band in G2 versus mild, sparse, perivascular mononuclear cell infiltrate in G3. Neocollagenesis: pronounced in G2, negligible in G3.

CONCLUSION

Coagulative necrosis of the epidermis, superficial fibroblasts, and vasculature can be attributed to the action of phenol. Phorbol esters on CO could be responsible for the dense deep acute inflammation and the distinctive neocollagenesis.

Skin Preparation for Photodynamic Therapy, Chemexfoliation, and Ablative Laser Resurfacing: a Systematic Literature Review

BACKGROUND

Photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing are common practices for dermatologists, yet no formal protocols exist regarding preprocedural skin preparation.

OBJECTIVE

To review and summarize the skin preparation protocols for photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing available in the literature.

METHODS

Data Sources A systematic review of English and non-English articles using the PubMed database was performed. A manual search of bibliographies from relevant articles was also performed to collect additional studies. Study Selection Only articles in the English language with full texts available that pertained to skin preparation for photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing were included. Data Extraction Article selection was performed by one author, and relevant sources were verified by other authors using predefined inclusion and exclusion criteria.

RESULTS

There is a paucity of scientific research regarding efficacy and safety of dermatologic preprocedural skin preparation agents. Only 2 studies have compared various cleansing agents for these measures. Yet, strong statements regarding the importance of degreasing are published without supportive data.

CONCLUSION

Consensus guidelines for preprocedural protocols are lacking for photodynamic therapy, chemexfoliation, and ablative laser resurfacing. Further studies are warranted to explore the efficacy and safety of various preprocedural cleansing agents.

Medium-depth Trichloroacetic Acid and Deep Phenol-Croton Oil Chemical Peeling for Facial Rejuvenation: An Update

ABSTRACT

Face-lift is an established rejuvenation modality; however, when performed alone, it lacks the ability to improve the appearance of fine wrinkles and dyschromias that are an important component of facial rejuvenation. Although it is only natural to be attracted by the latest technologically advanced innovative skin resurfacing techniques, chemical peeling has been proven to be a simple and effective method with a relatively good safety profile. Unfortunately, the practice of chemical peeling has relied for a long time on dogmas perpetuated by early reports without any real scientific basis. Moreover, application of peels has been hindered by difficult estimation of penetrance and control of depth. Three decades ago, a shift has occurred from early dogmatic empirical application to better understanding of the peeling formulations and mechanism of action together with appreciation of the interaction between the various components of the peeling formulations in addition to better estimation of clinical end points and peel depth. Given the increasing demand for none or minimally invasive cosmetic procedures, the current review is aimed at highlighting the recent applications of available medium-depth and deep chemical peels for optimal facial rejuvenation and for the treatment of photo-related aging skin changes.

Identification of candidate medicinal herbs for skincare via data mining of the classic Donguibogam text on Korean medicine

Background

Korean cosmetics are widely exported throughout Asia. Cosmetics exploiting traditional Korean medicine lead this trend; thus, the traditional medicinal literature has been invaluable in terms of cosmetic development. We sought candidate medicinal herbs for skincare.

Methods

We used data mining to investigate associations between medicinal herbs and skin-related keywords (SRKs) in a classical text. We selected 26 SRKs used in the Donguibogam text; these referred to 626 medicinal herbs. Using a term frequency-inverse document frequency approach, we extracted data on herbal characteristics by assessing the co-occurrence frequencies of 52 medicinal herbs and the 26 SRKs.

Results

We extracted the characteristics of the 52 herbs, each of which exhibited a distinct skin-related action profile. For example Ginseng Radix was associated at a high-level with tonification and anti-aging, but Rehmanniae Radix exhibited a stronger association with anti-aging. Of the 52 herbs, 46 had been subjected to at least one modern study on skincare-related efficacy.

Conclusions

We made a comprehensive list of candidate medicinal herbs for skincare via data mining a classical medical text. This enhances our understanding of such herbs and will help with discovering new candidate herbs.

The rise of Chemical Peeling in 19th-century European Dermatology: emergence of agents, formulations and treatments

BACKGROUND

Considering the increasing number of chemical peeling applications, also the interest in the history of chemical peelings and agents, has grown in dermatology. Research ascribes the first use of phenol as a chemical peeling agent to William Tilbury Fox (1836-1879) in 1871. Furthermore, Ferdinand von Hebra (1847-1902) is said to describe the properties of various peeling agents in 1874, and Paul Gerson Unna (1850-1929) adds resorcinol and trichloroacetic acid in 1882.

OBJECTIVE

To identify the first mentions of chemical peeling applications and agents in 19th-century dermatology.

METHODS

Nineteenth-century dermatologists were identified by an examination of literature of the last 30 years on the history of chemical peeling. Systematic examination of the medical textbooks of Hebra, Fox and Unna was conducted. It was proved whether the mentioned agents were used for chemical peeling applications.

RESULTS

The skin peeling property of phenol was already discovered by its first describer, the chemist Friedlieb Ferdinand Runge (1795-1867) in 1834. The Viennese dermatologist Hebra described phenol as a chemical peeling agent in 1860. Hebra and his associate Moriz Kaposi (1837-1902) stated that 'Lotio carbolica' was already used in London. Fox used phenol mostly as a disinfectant and not for chemical peelings since 1869. Unna described the chemical peeling property of salicylic acid in 1882 and gave the most comprehensive account of chemical peels of the 19th century in 1899. Unna also introduced the Gutta-percha plaster with salicylic acid and phenol. Around 1900, Unna was famous for his peeling paste with resorcinol in Germany.

CONCLUSIONS

A new chronology of the introduction of chemical peeling in dermatology can be drawn from the results. The German-speaking dermatology pioneered the treatment of skin diseases with chemical peelings as well as for aesthetical purposes 21 years earlier than hitherto known.

Depth Map for Face and Neck Deep Chemical Peel Resurfacing

BACKGROUND

Chemical peels are applied to the face and neck to improve rhytides and the photoaged appearance of the skin. Peels can be applied to different skin depths depending on the types of chemicals, the volume of solution, and the amount of pressure or friction applied. If a peel is applied too superficially, rhytides will not be removed. If a peel is applied too deeply, scarring or hypopigmentation could occur.

OBJECTIVE

To create face and neck depth maps for chemical peeling, which can guide safety when removing rhytides and improving the skin's appearance.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A multicenter retrospective review of records was conducted of patients who underwent phenol-croton oil peeling, from January 1, 2018, to December 31, 2018. Information was collected on facial and neck cosmetic units peeled, peel formula and strength used, outcomes, and complications.

RESULTS

A total of 410 patients received deep peels. Two depth maps were created that corresponded to the most common patterns of deep chemical peel applications.

CONCLUSION

Different areas of the face and neck are treated with different chemical peel application depths to safely improve rhytides and appearance. Depth maps are created to balance safety and efficacy.