Relationship between microstructure of the skin surface and surface reflection based on geometric optics

Dynamic model for the strain-modulated spectral reflectance of the human skin in vivo

Hyperspectral imaging (HSI) offers a wealth of information regarding human skin. In this study, we established a dynamic skin spectral reflectance model (DSSR) relating the reflectance to skin surface strain, considering multi physiological and physical parameters of the skin. Experimentally, by HSI, we measured the reflectance variance of the forearm skin in vivo caused by the surface strain, and assessed these key parameters. For the human skin in vivo, within the strain range covered in this paper, stretching increases spectral reflectance, while compression decreases it. Our proposed model provides a possibility for non-contact strain measurement and health monitoring on the skin in vivo based on HSI.

Improving and evaluating the adhesion and stability of make-up by enhancing the affinity between skin/make-up layer

PURPOSE

upMake-up clumps, bumps and collapses are the three factors that determine how well make-up has been performed. The purpose of this study is to reduce the three factors mentioned above by using amphiphilic substances to increase the affinity between the skin and the make-up layer. In addition, it aims to evaluate the improvement of the make-up layer by developing an objective make-up layer evaluation method.

METHODS

Experiments were performed in an attempt to increase the affinity between the skin and the make-up layer by minimizing the difference in surface energy between the two. Multiple types of artificial skin (leather and bio-skin) were used and treated to form the liquid foundation layer. Qualitative evaluation of the make-up layer was conducted by analyzing the surface, cross-section, and fracture area of the make-up layer, using the evaluation method proposed in this study.

RESULTS

After applying this method and taking measurements by 3D surface analysis, the surface roughness of the make-up layer reduced by 46%, and the maximum thickness of the make-up layer reduced by about 50% in comparison with the control group (method not applied). In the case of the make-up layer to which this method was applied, two-dimensional cross-sectional Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) image analysis confirmed that agglomeration was reduced, and the thickness of the make-up layer was also reduced by an average of 54%. According to this result, the technique of increasing the affinity between the skin and the make-up layer reduces the level of aggregation of make-up and encourages the formation of a uniform and thin make-up layer. Also, the fracture area after motion simulation was reduced by 33%. These results indicate that the method of increasing the affinity between skin/make-up membranes positively affects the formation of a uniform make-up layer.

CONCLUSION

Increasing the affinity by reducing the surface energy between the skin and the make-up layer plays an important role in forming a thin and uniform make-up layer by improving the problems of lifting, agglomeration, and collapse of the make-up. In addition, it has been confirmed that through this method, the quality of consumer experience related to make-up satisfaction can be improved. The results show that objective analyses of make-up help the understanding of the quality of consumer experience on make-up.

Review of light parameters and photobiomodulation efficacy: dive into complexity

Photobiomodulation (PBM) therapy, previously known as low-level laser therapy, was discovered more than 50 years ago, yet there is still no agreement on the parameters and protocols for its clinical application. Some groups have recommended the use of a power density less than 100  mW/cm2 and an energy density of 4 to 10  J/cm2 at the level of the target tissue. Others recommend as much as 50  J/cm2 at the tissue surface. The wide range of parameters that can be applied (wavelength, energy, fluence, power, irradiance, pulse mode, treatment duration, and repetition) in some cases has led to contradictory results. In our review, we attempt to evaluate the range of effective and ineffective parameters in PBM. Studies in vitro with cultured cells or in vivo with different tissues were divided into those with higher numbers of mitochondria (muscle, brain, heart, nerve) or lower numbers of mitochondria (skin, tendon, cartilage). Graphs were plotted of energy density against power density. Although the results showed a high degree of variability, cells/tissues with high numbers of mitochondria tended to respond to lower doses of light than those with lower number of mitochondria. Ineffective studies in cells with high mitochondrial activity appeared to be more often due to over-dosing than to under-dosing.

Concealing a shiny facial skin appearance by an Aerogel-based formula. In vitro and in vivo studies

OBJECTIVE

To explore, in vitro and in vivo, the potential interest of an Aerogel-based formula, in concealing a naturally shiny facial skin.

METHODS

In vitro, various formulae and ingredients were applied as a thin film onto contrast plates and studied through measuring the shine induced following pump spraying of a mixture of oleic acid and mineral water as a sebum/sweat mix model. In such a test, an Aerogel ingredient led to very positive results. In vivo, two different formulae with various concentrations of Aerogel were randomly tested on half side of the face vs. bare side of Chinese women, under some provocative environmental conditions, known to enhance facial shine. These conditions comprised a normal activity under a hot and highly humid summer time followed - or not - by a hamam session. Both studies included comparative evaluations using a half-face procedure (treated/untreated or vehicle). In the first case, evaluations were quantitatively carried out, whereas the second one was based on a quantitative self-evaluations from standardized full-face photographs RESULTS: In vitro, the tested Aerogel, incorporated at 1% or 2% concentration in a common O/W cosmetic emulsion, shows an immediate light scattering effect, thereby masking shine. Such effect appears of much higher amplitude than that of two other tested particulate ingredients (Talc and Perlite). A noticeable remanence of anti-shine effect was confirmed in vivo in extreme conditions. The latter was self-perceived by all participants in the second study. This result is likely related to the super hydrophobic behaviour of the Aerogel.

CONCLUSION

As cosmetic ingredient, this new Aerogel appears as a highly promising ingredient for concealing the facial skin shine, a source of complaint from many consumers living in hot and humid regions.