A quantitative ethnobotanical survey of phytocosmetics used in the tropical island of Mauritius

Exploring traditional cosmetic flora from Comoros islands: An ethnobotanical survey in Mayotte

Mayotte is located in the Indian Ocean and is home to more than five languages, cultures and lifestyles. However, due to rapid urbanization, this traditional knowledge is at risk of extinction. Moreover, ethnobotanical studies on the pharmacopoeia and cosmetopoeia in Mayotte are almost nonexistent. This study was carried out to document the traditional knowledge of Mayotte's cosmetopoeia. The main objective of this study was to document the diversity of cosmetic plants used by the Mahoran community. We conducted field surveys from 2021 to 2022 in 14 communes of "Grande Terre", the largest of the two islands from Mayotte. A total of 35 experts (fundi) were interviewed in this study. Individual interviews with Mahoran informants using open questions were conducted, and voucher specimens were collected for each plant species cited. A total of 470 cosmetic formulations, representing a total of 1777 URs, were recorded. Each formulation contains 1 to 13 ingredients, with a predominance of single-ingredient recipes. In particular, hygiene, makeup, fragrance, hair and nails, and dermatology are the most cited cosmetic categories. A total of 83 plant species were identified and the five most cited plant species were, in decreasing order: Cocos nucifera (273 URs), Jasminum nummulariifolium (191 URs), Ocimum spp. (120 URs), Curcuma longa (105 URs), and Lawsonia inermis (101 URs). This study is one of the first to focus solely on the exploration of cosmetopoeia in Mayotte, contributing to the preservation of knowledge and the promotion of customs related to traditional cosmetics on this island. Further studies should be performed on some highly cited plant species endemic to the area (e.g., Jasminum nummulariifolium, Pandanus maximus) to confirm their interest for the cosmetic industry and thus contribute to the economic growth of Mahoran people.

Ethnobotany of traditional cosmetics among the Oromo women in Madda Walabu District, Bale Zone, Southeastern Ethiopia

Traditional cosmetics play a significant role in the cultural practices and personal hygiene of many ethnic groups worldwide. The Oromo, an indigenous community in Ethiopia, has a rich history of utilizing local plants for cosmetic purposes. However, the use of plants as traditional cosmetics has only been poorly investigated as more emphasis was given to traditional medicines. The study thus aimed to identify and document plant species, and parts used in traditional cosmetics and associated knowledge, and practices among Oromo women in the Madda Walabu district, Southeastern Ethiopia. A total of 150 Oromo women were interviewed to gather ethnobotanical information including the plant species used for cosmetics, their preparation methods, and their applications. Ethnobotanical indices were computed to determine the most important species used by the women. A total of 48 plant species belonging to 31 families used as sources of traditional cosmetics were recorded. Most of these plants were trees. Leaves were the most commonly used plant part in traditional cosmetics, and maceration and decoction were the most common preparation methods applied to prepare traditional cosmetics. Topical application of traditional cosmetics was the most common, while oral infusions were rarely reported type of administration. All categories had high informant consensus factor (ICF) values, ranging from 0.80 to 0.98. The highest ICF value was found for skin treatment, followed by the hair, and face mask. Overall, Commiphora habessinica, Gnidia stenophylla, Kalanchoe lanceolata, Mimusops kummel, Sesamothamnus rivae, Terminalia brownii, T. laxiflora, Acacia drepanolobium, A. mellifera, and Aloe citrina were the most frequently cited and culturally important plants by Oromo women for traditional cosmetics in the area. The study highlights the importance of local plant resources for maintaining cultural practices and personal hygiene. However, the cultural heritage associated with traditional cosmetics is facing threats from various factors. Therefore, a continuous effort to document and disseminate knowledge about traditional cosmetics practices to ensure their preservation and transmission and awakening younger generations about the importance of traditional cosmetics and their role in cultural heritage is crucial.

Untargeted metabolomics-based molecular networking for chemical characterization of selected Apiaceae fruit extracts in relation to their antioxidant and anti-cellulite potentials

Stress, obesity, hormonal changes, and aging have been connected to cellulite aggravation resulting in skin dimpled appearance, a very common painless skin disorder with a female preponderance. Several Apiaceae plants have been traditionally used for cosmetic applications. However, their screening for anti-cellulite potential has not been deeply investigated. In this work, UPLC-HRMS/MS coupled with molecular networking was employed to glean a holistic overview of the chemodiversity of the metabolome of nine Apiaceae fruits. Additionally, the extracts were screened for in vitro antioxidant and anti-cellulite activities. Apium graveolens and Petroselinum crispum revealed excellent free radical scavenging activity, remarkably increased lipolysis, and decreased adipogenesis. Furthermore, apigenin and its glycosides were identified to be the major components in both extracts, which might be responsible for the antioxidant activity and anti-cellulite potential. Conclusively, these results signify the potent antioxidant and anti-cellulite properties of A. graveolens and P. crispum fruit extracts, holding potential for the development of plant derived products for cellulite management.

Synergistic effect of Aloe vera flower and Aloe gel on cutaneous wound healing targeting MFAP4 and its associated signaling pathway: In-vitro study

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Aloe vera (L.) Burm. f. (Liliaceae family) is a well-known traditional medicinal plant, that has been used to treat a variety of illnesses, for decades ranging from cancer to skin disorders including wounds. It has been included in the traditional and herbal healthcare systems of many cultures around the world, as well as the pharmacopeia of different countries. Several in vitro and in vivo studies have also confirmed its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing activities, etc. in the consistency of its historical and traditional uses. However, most studies to date are based on the A. vera gel and latex including its wound-healing effects. Very few studies have been focused on its flower, and rarely with its effects on cutaneous wound healing and its molecular mechanism.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to report on the synergistic effect of the A. vera flower (AVF) and Aloe gel (PAG) on cutaneous wound-healing, as well as revealing its molecular mechanism targeting microfibril-associated glycoprotein 4 (MFAP4) and its associated signaling pathway.

METHODS

To investigate the synergistic effect of A. vera flower and Aloe gel in cutaneous wound healing, cell viability, and cell migration, as well proliferation assay was performed. This was followed by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction and Western blot analyses in wounded conditions to check the effects of this mixture on protein and mRNA levels in normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cells. Moreover, small interfering RNA (siRNA) -mediated knockdown of MFAP4 in NHDF cells was performed followed by migration assay and cell cycle analysis, to confirm its role in cutaneous wound healing. Additionally, HaCaT cells were included in this study to evaluate its migratory and anti-inflammatory effects.

RESULTS

Based on our obtained results, the PAG and AVF mixture synergistically induced the proliferation, migration, and especially ECM formation of NHDF cells by enhancing the expression of MFAP4. Other extracellular components associated with MFAP4 signaling pathway, such as fibrillin, collagen, elastin, TGF β, and α-SMA, also increased at both the protein and mRNA levels. Subsequently, this mixture initiated the phosphorylation of the extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and AKT signaling pathways, and the S-phase of the cell cycle was also slightly modified. Also, the mixture induced the migration of HaCaT cells along with the suppression of inflammatory cytokines. Moreover, the siRNA-mediated knockdown highlighted the crucial role of MFAP4 in cutaneous wound healing in NHDF cells.

CONCLUSION

This study showed that the mixture of PAG and AVF has significant wound healing effects targeting MFAP4 and its associated signaling pathway. Additionally, MFAP4 was recognized as a new potential biomarker of wound healing, which can be confirmed by further in vivo studies.

Herb-drug interactions and toxicity: Underscoring potential mechanisms and forecasting clinically relevant interactions induced by common phytoconstituents via data mining and computational approaches

Herbals in the form of medicine are employed extensively around the world. Herbal and conventional medicine combination is a potentially dangerous practice mainly in comorbid, hepato insufficient and frail patients leading to perilous herb-drug interactions (HDI) and toxicity. This study features potential HDI of 15 globally famous plant species through data mining and computational methods. Several plant species were found to mimic warfarin. Phytochemicals from M. charantia induced hypoglycemica. M. chamomila and G. biloba possessed anticoagulant activities. S. hispanica reduces postprandial glycemia. R. officinalis has been reported to inhibit the efflux of anticancer substrates while A. sativum can boost the clearance of anticancer agents. P. ginseng can alter blood coagulation. A cross link of the biological and in silico data revealed that a plethora of herbal metabolites such as ursolic and rosmarinic acid among others are possible/probable inhibitors of specific CYP450 enzymes. Consequently, plant species/metabolites with a given pharmacological property/metabolizing enzyme should not be mixed with drugs having the same pharmacological property/metabolizing enzyme. Even if combined with drugs, herbal medicines must be used at low doses for a short period of time and under the supervision of a healthcare professional to avoid potential adverse and toxic effects.

Herbal-Based Cosmeceuticals and Economic Sustainability among Women in South African Rural Communities

Access to natural resources in the immediate environment is an essential factor that contributes to livelihood in many rural areas. In the current study, we explored the economic potential(s) of the natural herbal-based cosmetic and cosmeceutical enterprise for the welfare of the Vhavenda women. A purposive sampling technique was used to collect data from 79 Vhavenda women and analysed with descriptive and inferential statistics (Tobit regression) as well as budgeting analysis. The majority (61%) of the participants were married with an average household size of five members. Additionally, 39% of the participants were already ageing with an average age-group of 56–70 years. The majority (44%) of the participants were not formally employed while the monthly average total income of R1841.01 (107.37 USD) was recorded with an average per capital expenditure of R1438.42 (83.89 USD). A budgeting cost ratio of 1.28 was recorded, which indicates that for every R1.00 (0.057 USD) invested in the herbal-based cosmetic and cosmeceutical production, an expected return of R1.28 (0.073 USD) was forecasted. Tobit regression results indicated that the determinants of the income of participants were experience level (p < 0.01), religion affiliation (p < 0.05) and consumption expenditure (p < 0.01) among others. Thus, a conscious, introspective and intentional look into this marginalised herbal-based cosmetic and cosmeceutical enterprise as a panacea for improved income and welfare of rural South Africans should be considered.

Natural resources used as folk cosmeceuticals among rural communities in Vhembe district municipality, Limpopo province, South Africa

BACKGROUND

Skin-related diseases affect every individual irrespective of age, gender or social status. Since time immemorial, humans have explored natural resources from their environment for the maintenance of the skin. This explorative survey was conducted to document the natural resources (plant and non-plant materials) used for folk cosmeceuticals by rural communities in Vhembe district municipality, Limpopo province, South Africa.

METHODS

The research was conducted in six communities namely: Tshakuma, Shigalo, Tshamutilikwa, Luvhimbi (Masikhwa), Khakhanwa, and Folovhodwe in Vhembe district. Random and convenient sampling was used to access the target population. Semi-structured questionnaires were used to interview 71 participants that comprised traditional practitioners, herbalists and laypeople from the study area. Collected data were analysed using both quantitative (for e.g. frequency, use-value and relative frequency of citation) and qualitative (thematic) analytical methods.

RESULTS

A total of 52 plants from 27 families and 22 non-plant materials were used as folk cosmeceuticals in the study area. The most cited plants included Dicerocaryum zanguebarium (Pedaliaceae), Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae) and Helinus integrifolius (Rhamnaceae). Trees and shrubs were the most common plant-life form while leaves were the most popular plant part. Pig fats, red ochre (Luvhundi soil) and ashes were the most cited non-plant materials. These documented natural resources are frequently prepared by crushing and mostly used to heal wounds.

CONCLUSION

Traditional knowledge concerning folk cosmeceuticals is mostly held by elders. The high number of natural resources documented is an indication that Vhembe district is rich in ethnopharmacological knowledge. Scientific investigation of the efficacies and safety of these natural resources is highly recommended as a drive aimed at innovations with benefits to the rural communities who are the custodians of this valuable knowledge.

Chemical characterization, antioxidant, cytotoxicity, Anti-Toxoplasma gondii and antimicrobial potentials of the Citrus sinensis seed oil for sustainable cosmeceutical production

There are growing concerns about the chronic and acute effects of synthetic additives such as antibacterial, fragrances, colourants and stabilizing agents used in the production of various household products. Many household products and materials including cosmetic products are reportedly suspected to be carcinogenic with some acting as endocrine disruptors among other effects. Thus, environmental-friendly alternatives such as products that are rich in bioactive phytochemicals are becoming consumers' preferred choice especially in the beauty and cosmetic sector. 'Green' preparation of medicinal soaps devoid of any synthetic additives was made from underutilized tropical seed of Citrus sinensis seed oil and some natural additives comprising of natural honey, Ocimum gratissimum leaves extract, Moringa oleifera seed oil and coconut oil. Precisely, the seed oil of the underexplored C. sinensis was obtained via soxhlet extraction and saponified with natural lye solution at different ratios to produce soaps of varying characteristics. The incorporation of honey and Ocimum gratissimum leaf extract provided additional antimicrobial, antioxidant and fragrance properties. Physico-chemical parameters of the oil and soaps were determined following standard procedures while the fatty acid profile of the trans-esterified oil was determined using GC-MS. The antimicrobial potential of the oil and soaps were assessed using agar diffusion method at concentrations 200 mg/mL and below. Linoleic acid (36%) and oleic acid (27%) were the most prominent in C. sinensis seed oil. The soap had antimicrobial potential comparable to commercial product. The soap samples recorded highest anti-bacteria activities (22.0 ± 1.0-23.0 ± 1.0) against Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus subtilis and notable anti-fungi activities (18.0 ± 1.0) against Penicillium notatum and Candida albicans. Additionally, the oil showed moderate anti-parasite (anit-toxoplasma gondii) activity (EC50 ≤ 500 μg/mL) but with improved selectivity that precludes oxidative stress while the prepared medicinal soaps exhibited remarkable antioxidant property. The utilization of these locally sourced resources will prevent the daily introduction of synthetic antimicrobial and antioxidant chemicals into the environment. The initiative avail a sustainable production of environmentally-benign cosmetic products besides conversion of waste to wealth agrees which aligns with the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

Medicinal plants brought by Indian indentured immigrants: A comparative review of ethnopharmacological uses between Mauritius and India

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Mauritius is famous for its floricultural diversity and traditions practiced across the island by various ethnic groups. During the British rule in the 1835s, Indian indentured labourers migrated to Mauritius and played a very important role in shaping the Mauritian culture. They brought along their high heritage of traditional knowledge of certain medicinal herbs and spices. Nonetheless, there has been no comparative study to investigate whether these past traditional knowledge are still preserved in Mauritius and India.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To document and compare the traditional uses of medicinal herbs and spices brought by Indian indentured labourers with their current uses in Mauritius and India, and to review pharmacological studies of such plants.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Locally published textbooks, research dissertations, and relevant records from the 'Mauritiana' section of the University of Mauritius library were scrutinised for possible early records of such herbs and spices brought by Indian indentured immigrants. Field trips and site visits to Mauritius Herbarium and The National Folk Museum were conducted to gather data on their traditional uses as practiced by the Indian indentured immigrants. A literature search was performed to gather the current ethnomedicinal uses of these plants in Mauritius and India using key databases such as ScienceDirect and PubMed, as well as thesis from local university website. Pharmacological studies on these plants were also reviewed in an attempt to compare the ethnomedicinal uses against reported ailments.

RESULTS

Indian labourers brought 18 medicinal plants for medicinal purposes as documented at the folk museum of Indian Immigration. Piper betle L., Azadirachta indica A. Juss., and Curcuma longa L. were common plants used by Indian indentured immigrants against a wide range of ailments. Data obtained from recent ethnomedicinal surveys revealed that A. indica and C. longa were the most traditionally used plants in India, while in Mauritius, C. longa was the most popular plant followed by Allium sativum L. and Ocimum tenuiflorum L. It was also found that all these plants are currently being used against a wide range of diseases in both countries. In addition, several studies have highlighted the pharmacological properties such as analgesic, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-pyretic, and anti-diabetic for some plants.

CONCLUSION

This investigation can be considered as a first attempt to document and compare traditional knowledge of medicinal plants brought by Indian immigrants. We observed that some of these knowledge are preserved and still practiced in Mauritius. It is anticipated that this study will revive the interest in safeguarding and promoting the ancestral knowledge on the uses of such plants.