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Jakupović L, Bačić I, Jablan J, Marguí E, Marijan M, Inić S, Nižić Nodilo L, Hafner A, Zovko Končić M. Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility. Antioxidants (Basel) 2023; 12:antiox12040855. [PMID: 37107230 PMCID: PMC10135191 DOI: 10.3390/antiox12040855] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/17/2023] [Revised: 03/28/2023] [Accepted: 03/30/2023] [Indexed: 04/05/2023] Open
Abstract
Two Helichrysum italicum extracts, OPT-1 (rich in phenolic acids) and OPT-2 (rich in total phenols and flavonoids), were prepared using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD)-assisted extraction. The prepared extracts were rich in phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids. GC-MS analysis of the extracts identified neryl acetate, neo-intermedeol, β-selinene, γ-curcumene, italidione I, and nerol as the main volatile components of the extracts, as well as plant sterols, γ-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. The antioxidant (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power, and a carotene linoleic acid assay) and cosmeceutical (anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-lipoxygenase, ovalbumin anti-coagulation, and a UV-absorption assay) activity of the extracts in most of the assays was better than the activity of the applied positive controls. Especially low were the IC50 values of the extracts in the anti-hyaluronidase (14.31 ± 0.29 μL extract/mL and 19.82 ± 1.53 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and the anti-lipoxygenase (0.96 ± 0.11 μL extract/mL and 1.07 ± 0.01 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) assays. The extracts were non-toxic to HaCaT cells in concentrations of up to 62.5 µL extract/mL assuring their status as excellent candidates for cosmeceutical product development appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products without solvent evaporation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Lejsa Jakupović
- Department of Pharmacognosy, University of Zagreb Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, A. Kovačića 1, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
| | - Ivana Bačić
- Forensic Science Centre “Ivan Vučetić”, Ilica 335, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
| | - Jasna Jablan
- Department of Analytical Chemistry, University of Zagreb Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, A. Kovačića 1, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
| | - Eva Marguí
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Sciences, University of Girona, C/M. Aurèlia Capmany 69, 17003 Girona, Spain
| | - Marijan Marijan
- Department of Pharmacognosy, University of Zagreb Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, A. Kovačića 1, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
| | - Suzana Inić
- Department of Analytical Chemistry, University of Zagreb Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, A. Kovačića 1, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
| | - Laura Nižić Nodilo
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, University of Zagreb Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, A. Kovačića 1, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
| | - Anita Hafner
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, University of Zagreb Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, A. Kovačića 1, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
| | - Marijana Zovko Končić
- Department of Pharmacognosy, University of Zagreb Faculty of Pharmacy and Biochemistry, A. Kovačića 1, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia
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Optimization of Cyclodextrin-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Helichrysum italicum for Preparation of Extracts with Anti-Elastase and Anti-Collagenase Properties. Metabolites 2023; 13:metabo13020257. [PMID: 36837876 PMCID: PMC9959134 DOI: 10.3390/metabo13020257] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/23/2023] [Revised: 02/06/2023] [Accepted: 02/07/2023] [Indexed: 02/12/2023] Open
Abstract
Helichrysum italicum is a plant traditionally used for skin-related disorders that is becoming an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetic products. In this work, a "green" ultrasound-assisted extraction method for H. italicum phenolics was developed using skin-friendly cyclodextrins (CDs). Extraction conditions needed for the greatest yield of target compounds (total phenolics, phenolic acids, and flavonoids) were calculated. The composition of the extracts was determined using LC-MS and spectrophotometric methods. Among the tested CDs, 2-hydroxylpropyl-beta-CD (HP-β-CD) was the best suited for extraction of target phenolics and used to prepare two optimized extracts, OPT 1 (the extract with the highest phenolic acid content) and OPT 2 (the extract with the highest total phenol and flavonoid content). The extracts were prepared at 80 °C, using 0.089 g of plant material/g solvent (0.6 mmol of HP-β-CD), with or without addition of 1.95% (w/w) lactic acid. The main metabolite in both extracts was 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid. It was found that the addition of lactic acid greatly contributes to the extraction of arzanol, a well-known anti-inflammatory agent. IC50 values of the anti-elastase (22.360 ± 0.125 μL extract/mL and 20.067 ± 0.975 for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and anti-collagenase (12.035 ± 1.029 μL extract/mL and 14.392 ± 0.705 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) activities of the extracts surpassed those of the applied positive controls, namely ursolic and gallic acids. This activity deems the prepared extracts promising ingredients for natural cosmetics, appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, removing the need for the evaporation of conventional solvents.
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