Protective effects of mycosporine-like amino acid-containing emulsions on UV-treated mouse ear tissue from the viewpoints of antioxidation and antiglycation

Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.

Therapeutic Antiaging Strategies

Aging constitutes progressive physiological changes in an organism. These changes alter the normal biological functions, such as the ability to manage metabolic stress, and eventually lead to cellular senescence. The process itself is characterized by nine hallmarks: genomic instability, telomere attrition, epigenetic alterations, loss of proteostasis, deregulated nutrient sensing, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell exhaustion, and altered intercellular communication. These hallmarks are risk factors for pathologies, such as cardiovascular diseases, neurodegenerative diseases, and cancer. Emerging evidence has been focused on examining the genetic pathways and biological processes in organisms surrounding these nine hallmarks. From here, the therapeutic approaches can be addressed in hopes of slowing the progression of aging. In this review, data have been collected on the hallmarks and their relative contributions to aging and supplemented with in vitro and in vivo antiaging research experiments. It is the intention of this article to highlight the most important antiaging strategies that researchers have proposed, including preventive measures, systemic therapeutic agents, and invasive procedures, that will promote healthy aging and increase human life expectancy with decreased side effects.

Oral Supplementation with Z-Isomer-Rich Astaxanthin Inhibits Ultraviolet Light-Induced Skin Damage in Guinea Pigs

The effect of oral supplementation with astaxanthin of different Z-isomer ratios on ultraviolet (UV) light-induced skin damage in guinea pigs was investigated. Astaxanthin with a high Z-isomer content was prepared from the all-E-isomer via thermal isomerization. Intact (all-E)-astaxanthin and the prepared Z-isomer-rich astaxanthin were suspended in soybean oil and fed to guinea pigs for three weeks. The UV-light irradiation was applied to the dorsal skin on the seventh day after the start of the test diet supplementation, and skin parameters, such as elasticity, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and pigmentation (melanin and erythema values), were evaluated. The accumulation of astaxanthin in the dorsal skin was almost the same after consumption of the all-E-isomer-rich astaxanthin diet (E-AST-D; total Z-isomer ratio = 3.2%) and the Z-isomer-rich astaxanthin diet (Z-AST-D; total Z-isomer ratio = 84.4%); however, the total Z-isomer ratio of astaxanthin in the skin was higher in the case of the Z-AST-D supplementation. Both diets inhibited UV light-induced skin-damaging effects, such as the reduction in elasticity and the increase in TEWL level. Between E-AST-D and Z-AST-D, Z-AST-D showed better skin-protective ability against UV-light exposure than E-AST-D, which might be because of the greater UV-light-shielding ability of astaxanthin Z-isomers than the all-E-isomer. Furthermore, supplementation with Z-AST-D resulted in a greater reduction in skin pigmentation caused by astaxanthin accumulation compared to that of E-AST-D. This study indicates that dietary astaxanthin accumulates in the skin and appears to prevent UV light-induced skin damage, and the Z-isomers are more potent oral sunscreen agents than the all-E-isomer.