1
|
Dallay C, Malhiac C, Picard C, Savary G. Fragrance in dermocosmetic emulsions: From microstructure to skin application. Int J Cosmet Sci 2024; 46:1-23. [PMID: 37622240 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12896] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/03/2023] [Revised: 08/21/2023] [Accepted: 08/22/2023] [Indexed: 08/26/2023]
Abstract
Fragrance is added to almost all dermocosmetic emulsions, as it has been found to be a key driver in consumer choice and contributes to the perception of product performance. Fragrance is a complex mixture of odorant chemicals at different concentrations. When incorporated into a formulation, the individual fragrance chemicals partition between the emulsion phases depending on their physicochemical properties, which can impact the structure, stability, texture and odour of the final product. On the other hand, it is well known in the food industry how the composition and structure of food emulsion matrices influence the release of aroma chemicals. Fragranced dermocosmetic emulsions have been studied to a lesser extent but it is interesting to apply findings from the food domain since emulsion structure, composition and aroma compounds share common features. This review aims to give an overview of the literature dealing with the interactions between fragrance and dermocosmetic emulsions. The effects of fragrance on emulsion microstructure, stability and texture are highlighted and discussed. The effects of composition and structure of emulsion on the release of fragrance molecules are also presented. Finally, the interactions between skin and fragranced emulsions are addressed.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
- Charlotte Dallay
- UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, Normandie Univ., Le Havre cedex, France
| | - Catherine Malhiac
- UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, Normandie Univ., Le Havre cedex, France
| | - Céline Picard
- UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, Normandie Univ., Le Havre cedex, France
| | - Géraldine Savary
- UNILEHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, Normandie Univ., Le Havre cedex, France
| |
Collapse
|
2
|
Li M, Zahi MR, Yuan Q, Tian F, Liang H. Preparation and stability of astaxanthin solid lipid nanoparticles based on stearic acid. EUR J LIPID SCI TECH 2015. [DOI: 10.1002/ejlt.201400650] [Citation(s) in RCA: 50] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/09/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Miaomiao Li
- State key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering; Beijing University of Chemical Technology, Beijing; P. R. China
| | - Mohamed Reda Zahi
- State key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering; Beijing University of Chemical Technology, Beijing; P. R. China
| | - Qipeng Yuan
- State key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering; Beijing University of Chemical Technology, Beijing; P. R. China
| | - Feibao Tian
- State key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering; Beijing University of Chemical Technology, Beijing; P. R. China
| | - Hao Liang
- State key Laboratory of Chemical Resource Engineering; Beijing University of Chemical Technology, Beijing; P. R. China
| |
Collapse
|
3
|
Li Y, Zhang Z, Yuan Q, Liang H, Vriesekoop F. Process optimization and stability of d-limonene nanoemulsions prepared by catastrophic phase inversion method. J FOOD ENG 2013. [DOI: 10.1016/j.jfoodeng.2013.06.001] [Citation(s) in RCA: 46] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
|
4
|
Shakeel F, Haq N, Alanazi FK, Alsarra IA. Self-nanoemulsifying performance of two grades of Lauroglycol (Lauroglycol-90 and Lauroglycol-FCC) in the presence of mixed nonionic surfactants. Pharm Dev Technol 2013; 19:799-805. [PMID: 23964928 DOI: 10.3109/10837450.2013.829099] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/13/2022]
|
5
|
Understanding Biorelevant Drug Release from a Novel Thermoplastic Capsule by Considering Microstructural Formulation Changes During Hydration. Pharm Res 2013; 31:194-203. [DOI: 10.1007/s11095-013-1152-y] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/15/2013] [Accepted: 07/16/2013] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
|
6
|
Abstract
Abstract
Water/propylene glycol/sucrose laurate/ethoxylated mono-di-glyceride/isopropylmyristate microemulsion systems were formulated and investigated using electrical conductivity and small angle X-ray scattering. The solubilization capacity of water in oil is dependent on the surfactants mixing ratio (w/w). The free energy of solubilization (ΔGo
s) values for water-in-oil microemulsions were calculated and found to decrease with water content in the water-in-oil microemulsions, they decreased with increasing ethoxylated mono-di-glyceride content in the mixed surfactants. The activation energy of conductive flow was estimated and a percolation phenomenon was revealed in these systems. Small angle X-ray scattering results indicate that the periodicity increases linearly with the increase in the water volume fraction in these microemulsions. The correlation length increases with the increase in the water volume fraction to a certain value then decreases.
Collapse
|
7
|
Santana RC, Perrechil FA, Cunha RL. High- and Low-Energy Emulsifications for Food Applications: A Focus on Process Parameters. FOOD ENGINEERING REVIEWS 2013. [DOI: 10.1007/s12393-013-9065-4] [Citation(s) in RCA: 108] [Impact Index Per Article: 9.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
|
8
|
Jeirani Z, Mohamed Jan B, Si Ali B, Mohd Noor I, See CH, Saphanuchart W. Prediction of water and oil percolation thresholds of a microemulsion by modeling of dynamic viscosity using response surface methodology. J IND ENG CHEM 2013. [DOI: 10.1016/j.jiec.2012.09.027] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
|
9
|
Stillhart C, Cavegn M, Kuentz M. Study of drug supersaturation for rational early formulation screening of surfactant/co-solvent drug delivery systems. J Pharm Pharmacol 2012; 65:181-92. [DOI: 10.1111/j.2042-7158.2012.01586.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/15/2012] [Accepted: 08/12/2012] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
Abstract
Objectives
To advance in vitro screening of surfactant/co-solvent formulations in early development by considering drug supersaturation and the mechanism of solubilization upon aqueous dilution.
Methods
Two surfactant/co-solvent model systems were studied at practically relevant aqueous dilution ratios. Precipitation of the model drug fenofibrate was characterized by focused beam reflectance measurement, X-ray diffraction, and Raman spectroscopy. We calculated drug supersaturation in diluted systems and introduced a theoretical model to study the role of excipient interaction in the process of drug solubilization. Finally, vehicle phase changes upon dilution were examined using dynamic light scattering and ultrasound analysis.
Key Findings
Phase changes occurred at low dilution levels, while more extensive dilution barely led to further structural changes. In undiluted formulations, ethanol–surfactant domains were responsible for fenofibrate solubilization. In dispersed formulations, however, the co-solvent partitioned out of the surfactant microstructure, leading to drug solubilization by independent micellization and co-solvency. This loss of excipient interaction caused formulation-specific supersaturation, which was indicative for the risk of drug precipitation.
Conclusions
Experimental protocols of in vitro formulation screening should include both low and high dilution levels of physiological relevance. The study of excipient interaction and estimation of supersaturation allows the identification of formulations that are prone to drug precipitation.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
- Cordula Stillhart
- Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Basel, Basel, Switzerland
- Institute of Pharma Technology, University of Applied Sciences and Arts Northwestern Switzerland, Muttenz, Switzerland
| | - Martin Cavegn
- Institute of Pharma Technology, University of Applied Sciences and Arts Northwestern Switzerland, Muttenz, Switzerland
| | - Martin Kuentz
- Institute of Pharma Technology, University of Applied Sciences and Arts Northwestern Switzerland, Muttenz, Switzerland
| |
Collapse
|
10
|
Jeirani Z, Mohamed Jan B, Si Ali B, Mohd Noor I, Chun Hwa S, Saphanuchart W. Prediction of Water Percolation Threshold of a Microemulsion Using Electrical Conductivity Measurements and Design of Experiments. Ind Eng Chem Res 2012. [DOI: 10.1021/ie300107j] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Zahra Jeirani
- Department of Chemical
Engineering,
Faculty of Engineering, University of Malaya, 50603 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
| | - Badrul Mohamed Jan
- Department of Chemical
Engineering,
Faculty of Engineering, University of Malaya, 50603 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
| | - Brahim Si Ali
- Department of Chemical
Engineering,
Faculty of Engineering, University of Malaya, 50603 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
| | - Ishenny Mohd Noor
- Department of Chemical
Engineering,
Faculty of Engineering, University of Malaya, 50603 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
| | - See Chun Hwa
- BCI Chemical Corporation Sdn. Bhd., Lot 7, Jalan BS 7/22, Taman Perindustrian
Bukit Serdang, Seksyen 7, 43300 Seri Kembangan, Selangor Darul Ehsan,
Malaysia
| | - Wasan Saphanuchart
- BCI Chemical Corporation Sdn. Bhd., Lot 7, Jalan BS 7/22, Taman Perindustrian
Bukit Serdang, Seksyen 7, 43300 Seri Kembangan, Selangor Darul Ehsan,
Malaysia
| |
Collapse
|
11
|
de Castro Santana R, Fasolin LH, da Cunha RL. Effects of a cosurfactant on the shear-dependent structures of systems composed of biocompatible ingredients. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2012. [DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2012.02.009] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
|
12
|
Rao J, McClements DJ. Lemon oil solubilization in mixed surfactant solutions: Rationalizing microemulsion & nanoemulsion formation. Food Hydrocoll 2012. [DOI: 10.1016/j.foodhyd.2011.06.002] [Citation(s) in RCA: 107] [Impact Index Per Article: 8.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/18/2022]
|
13
|
Fanun M. Reprint of “Properties of microemulsions with mixed nonionic surfactants and citrus oil”. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2011. [DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2011.04.020] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/16/2022]
|
14
|
Fanun M. Properties of microemulsions with mixed nonionic surfactants and citrus oil. Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 2010. [DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2010.08.028] [Citation(s) in RCA: 25] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
|