A novel AFM based method for force measurements between individual hair strands

Effects of surfactant adsorption on the wettability and friction of biomimetic surfaces

The properties of solid-liquid interfaces can be markedly altered by surfactant adsorption. Here, we use molecular dynamics (MD) simulations to study the adsorption of ionic surfactants at the interface between water and heterogeneous solid surfaces with randomly arranged hydrophilic and hydrophobic regions, which mimic the surface properties of human hair. We use the coarse-grained MARTINI model to describe both the hair surfaces and surfactant solutions. We consider negatively-charged virgin and bleached hair surface models with different grafting densities of neutral octadecyl and anionic sulfonate groups. The adsorption of cationic cetrimonium bromide (CTAB) and anionic sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) surfactants from water are studied above the critical micelle concentration. The simulated adsorption isotherms suggest that cationic surfactants adsorb to the surfaces via a two-stage process, initially forming monolayers and then bilayers at high concentrations, which is consistent with previous experiments. Anionic surfactants weakly adsorb via hydrophobic interactions, forming only monolayers on both virgin and medium bleached hair surfaces. We also conduct non-equilibrium molecular dynamics simulations, which show that applying cationic surfactant solutions to bleached hair successfully restores the low friction seen with virgin hair. Friction is controlled by the combined surface coverage of the grafted lipids and the adsorbed CTAB molecules. Treated surfaces containing monolayers and bilayers both show similar friction, since the latter are easily removed by compression and shear. Further wetting MD simulations show that bleached hair treated with CTAB increases the hydrophobicity to similar levels seen for virgin hair. Treated surfaces containing CTAB monolayers with the tailgroups pointing predominantly away from the surface are more hydrophobic than bilayers due to the electrostatic interactions between water molecules and the exposed cationic headgroups.

Nanoscale friction of biomimetic hair surfaces

We investigate the nanoscale friction between biomimetic hair surfaces using chemical colloidal probe atomic force microscopy experiments and nonequilibrium molecular dynamics simulations. In the experiments, friction is measured between water-lubricated silica surfaces functionalised with monolayers formed from either octadecyl or sulfonate groups, which are representative of the surfaces of virgin and ultimately bleached hair, respectively. In the simulations, friction is monitored between coarse-grained model hair surfaces with different levels of chemical damage, where a specified amount of grafted octadecyl groups are randomly replaced with sulfonate groups. The sliding velocity dependence of friction in the simulations can be described using an extended stress-augmented thermally activation model. As the damage level increases in the simulations, the friction coefficient generally increases, but its sliding velocity-dependence decreases. At low sliding velocities, which are closer to those encountered experimentally and physiologically, we observe a monotonic increase of the friction coefficient with damage ratio, which is consistent with our new experiments using biomimetic surfaces and previous ones using real hair. This observation demonstrates that modified surface chemistry, rather than roughness changes or subsurface damage, control the increase in nanoscale friction of bleached or chemically damaged hair. We expect the methods and biomimetic surfaces proposed here to be useful to screen the tribological performance of hair care formulations both experimentally and computationally.

Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition

OBJECTIVE

The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits.

METHODS

Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3 ), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2 ) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM).

RESULTS

Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water.

CONCLUSION

Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.

Automated Measurement of Spatially Resolved Hair-Hair Single Fiber Adhesion

The adhesion force between individual human hair fibers in a crosshair geometry was measured by observing their natural bending and adhesive jumps out of contact, using optical video microscopy. The hair fibers' natural elastic responses, calibrated by measuring their natural resonant frequencies, were used to measure the forces. Using a custom-designed, automated apparatus to measure thousands of individual hair-hair contacts along millimeter length scales of hair, it was found that a broad, yet characteristic, spatially variant distribution in adhesion force is measured on the 1 to 1000 nN scale for both clean and conditioner-treated hair fibers. Comparison between the measured adhesion forces and adhesion forces modeled from the hairs' surface topography (measured using confocal laser profilometry) shows they have a good order-of-magnitude agreement and have similar breadth and shape. The agreement between the measurements and the model suggests, perhaps unsurprisingly, that hair-hair adhesion is governed, to a first approximation, by the unique surface structure of the hairs' cuticles and, therefore, the large distribution in local mean curvature at the various individual contact points along the hairs' lengths. We posit that haircare products could best control the surface properties (or at least the adhesive properties) between hairs by directly modifying the hair surface microstructure.

Hydrogel Microparticles as Sensors for Specific Adhesion: Case Studies on Antibody Detection and Soil Release Polymers

Adhesive processes in aqueous media play a crucial role in nature and are important for many technological processes. However, direct quantification of adhesion still requires expensive instrumentation while their sample throughput is rather small. Here we present a fast, and easily applicable method on quantifying adhesion energy in water based on interferometric measurement of polymer microgel contact areas with functionalized glass slides and evaluation via the Johnson–Kendall–Roberts (JKR) model. The advantage of the method is that the microgel matrix can be easily adapted to reconstruct various biological or technological adhesion processes. Here we study the suitability of the new adhesion method with two relevant examples: (1) antibody detection and (2) soil release polymers. The measurement of adhesion energy provides direct insights on the presence of antibodies showing that the method can be generally used for biomolecule detection. As a relevant example of adhesion in technology, the antiadhesive properties of soil release polymers used in today’s laundry products are investigated. Here the measurement of adhesion energy provides direct insights into the relation between polymer composition and soil release activity. Overall, the work shows that polymer hydrogel particles can be used as versatile adhesion sensors to investigate a broad range of adhesion processes in aqueous media.

Nanomechanical properties of human skin and introduction of a novel hair indenter

The mechanical resistance of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin, to deformation has been evaluated at different length scales using Atomic Force Microscopy. Nanomechanical surface mapping was first conducted using a sharp silicon tip and revealed that Young׳s modulus of the stratum corneum varied over the surface with a mean value of about 0.4GPa. Force indentation measurements showed permanent deformation of the skin surface only at high applied loads (above 4µN). The latter effect was further demonstrated using nanomechanical imaging in which the obtained depth profiles clearly illustrate the effects of increased normal force on the elastic/plastic surface deformation. Force measurements utilizing the single hair fiber probe supported the nanoindentation results of the stratum corneum being highly elastic at the nanoscale, but revealed that the lateral scale of the deformation determines the effective elastic modulus.This result resolves the fact that the reported values in the literature vary greatly and will help to understand the biophysics of the interaction of razor cut hairs that curl back during growth and interact with the skin.

Phototunable surface interactions

Photoresponsive polymer brushes constitute an attractive platform for tuning surface properties and functionality. Since the degree of photoconversion can be controlled by the light dose, functional states with intermediate properties between those of the nonexposed and fully exposed brushes are accessible. Here we investigate the light-modulated interfacial, adhesion, and frictional properties of photosensitive polymer brushes with a methacrylate backbone and ionizable -COOH side groups modified with the photoremovable group 6-nitroveratryloxycarbonyl (NVOC). The original brush (PNVOCMA) gradually changes into a charged poly(methacrylic acid) (PMAA) brush upon exposure to ultraviolet light due to the photoremoval of the chromophore and generation of free COOH groups. We show how the physical properties of the brush can be gradually tuned with the exposure dose using condensation microscopy, atomic force microscopy (AFM), force mapping, and friction force spectroscopy.

New insight on the friction of natural fibers. Effect of sliding angle and anisotropic surface topography

The friction anisotropy of human hair has been investigated as a function of angle using AFM fiber probe measurements to evaluate the role of cuticle alignment. It is found that friction hysteresis, the difference in friction coefficients between sliding with or against the cuticle direction, is essentially nonexistent for native human hair. For damaged human hair, however, a clear friction hysteresis is observed, which appears to be a periodic function of the angle between the fibers. The implication is that antiparallel sliding is not in itself sufficient for friction isotropy but that lifting of the cuticle edges is required. A methodology to perform friction analysis independently for trace and retrace was therefore developed, which is applicable to any type of AFM lateral force measurement. It explicitly accounts for roll, noncircular cross section, and off-axis alignment as well as baseline drift, which allows real anisotropy in the friction coefficient to be deconvoluted from these artifacts.