Indoor Bouldering-A Prospective Injury Evaluation

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing

Introduction

Climbing has evolved from an obscure outdoor sport to a predominantly indoor sport with the rise of mainstream climbing on artificial walls. Reported climbing-related injuries were predominantly chronic and may be avoided with proper planning of training. All climbers, regardless of age and gender, are training on the same routes and perform similar movements; however, few studies have investigated gender-specific injuries in climbing.

Objectives

Assess the distribution of chronic climbing injuries in an international population with gender-specific analyses and assess the impact of the person's training focus or aim of training on those injuries.

Methods

A cross-sectional survey using a web-based item-driven questionnaire was created and promoted using social media and several climbing media stakeholders. All climbers engaged in either sport climbing, bouldering or traditional climbing were included.

Results

The survey received 1513 responses (877 men, 427 women and 9 not reporting gender), of which 50.3% (n=665; 51.4% men and 48.0% women) had experienced an injury in the past 12 months. There were significant differences in injuries in feet/ankle (p=0.014), neck (p=0.03), head (p=0.0001), shoulder (p=0.001), elbow (p=0.021) and fingers (p=0.003).

Conclusion

Over 50% of the climbers experienced an injury in the past 12 months. The most common injuries were to the shoulders (women) and fingers (men). There were significant differences between the genders regarding injury site and prevalence. The gender differences may be affected by the aim for training and the style of climbing.

"Run-and-jump failure": new injury patterns in indoor bouldering

In recent years, professional and non-professional bouldering have seen a fundamental change in movement patterns towards complex movement sequences. This is associated with increased demands on the musculoskeletal system, especially the lower extremities, which can lead to new injury patterns. In the course of our clinical work, we have already seen an increasing number of lower extremity injuries after run-and-jump sequences, with a severe one being highlighted in this case report.

Analyzing Injury Patterns in Climbing: A Comprehensive Study of Risk Factors

Climbing, a sport with increasing popularity, poses diverse risks and injury patterns across its various disciplines. This study evaluates the incidence and nature of climbing-related injuries, focusing on how different disciplines and climbers' personal characteristics affect these injuries. Data on injury incidence, severity, and consequences, as well as climbers' personal attributes, were collected through a questionnaire and analyzed using generalized linear models and generalized linear mixed models, Cochran-Armitage tests, and multivariate analysis. Our findings indicate a direct correlation between time spent on bouldering and lead climbing and increased injury frequency, while injury incidence decreases with time in traditional climbing. Interestingly, personal characteristics showed no significant impact on injury incidence or severity. However, distinct patterns emerged in individual disciplines regarding the recent injuries in which age and weight of climbers play a role. While the phase of occurrence and duration of consequences show no significant variation across disciplines, the intensity of the required treatment and causes of injury differ. This research provides insights into climbing injuries' complex nature, highlighting the need for tailored preventive strategies across climbing disciplines. It underscores the necessity for further investigation into the factors contributing to climbing injuries, advocating for more targeted injury prevention and safety measures in this evolving sport.

Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review

Introduction

Climbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers.

Methods

This systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies.

Results

Out of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a "crimp" grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting.

Discussion

This review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs.

Systematic Review Registration

https://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).

A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury

INTRODUCTION

Strength training has proved to be an effective way to prevent injuries, but the evidence of the impact of strength training on finger injuries is lacking. A fingerboard is a sport-specific tool used by climbers for strength training of fingers. In this study, we searched for associations between fingerboard training and finger injuries in climbers with different lengths of climbing experience and levels of performance.

METHODS

A web-based survey was used to collect information on self-perceived pain or injury in fingers (SPIIF) and regular fingerboard training (RFT). The survey was administered to the Finnish climbing community. Data were analyzed using contingency tables; chi-square was used to evaluate statistical significance.

RESULTS

No significant correlations between SPIIF and RFT were found when analyzing all the participants (n=434) together. In climbers with 6 y or more in the sport, SPIIF was not common and RFT was negatively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=200]=4.57; P=0.03). In contrast to this, in male climbers who had been climbing for less than 6 y and had advanced to 7a level or higher (French lead/Font bouldering), SPIIF was common and RFT was positively associated with SPIIF (χ2 [1, n=75]=4.61; P=0.03).

CONCLUSIONS

We suggest that doing RFT may prevent SPIIF in climbers with a long background in the sport as fingerboard training can help build stronger fingers and thereby stronger tendons and ligaments. Climbers with fewer years in the sport and less adaptation to the fingers should be cautious with their training loads and RFT to avoid finger injuries and pain.

Wrist Injuries in Climbers

BACKGROUND

Acute and chronic injuries to the wrist are among the most common sport-related complaints of climbing athletes but have not been extensively evaluated in this population. Therefore, it is important to categorize climbing injuries to the wrist, analyze risk factors, and assess treatment outcomes.

PURPOSE

To evaluate the distribution, outcomes, and influencing factors of wrist injuries in climbers.

STUDY DESIGN

Case series; Level of evidence, 4.

METHODS

Climbing athletes with wrist injuries who presented to our specialized sports medical center over the course of 4 years (2017-2020) were selected. All had prospectively completed questionnaires including their climbing-specific background (years of training, climbing level, training methods, etc). Injuries were analyzed (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation [UIAA] grade and diagnosis), and treatment methods and outcomes were retrospectively assessed with a minimum follow-up of 2 years. Parameters included the climbing score, visual analog scale for pain score, Patient-Rated Wrist Evaluation (PRWE) score, and shortened version of the Disabilities of the Arm, Shoulder and Hand (QuickDASH) score including the sport component (DASH-Sport) score before and after treatment as well as time to return to climbing.

RESULTS

A total of 69 patients (25 female, 44 male) with 78 wrist injuries were identified and analyzed. Of these, 7 injuries were bilateral, occurring at the same time, and 2 injuries were independent reinjuries to either the same or the contralateral side. In addition, 24 injuries (30.8%) were acute, while 54 (69.2%) were chronic. Overall, 2 injuries had a UIAA grade of 3; all others had a UIAA grade of 2. The most frequent injuries were synovitis of the ulnocarpal recess, ulnar impaction, bone marrow edema of the lunate, wrist sprains (joint capsular pain with stress, with no pathological finding on magnetic resonance imaging), and wrist ganglion cysts. Nonoperative treatment was performed for 61 of the injuries, while 17 were treated surgically. In 51 cases (65.4%), injuries healed without consequences; in 27 cases (34.6%), discomfort remained. The visual analog scale pain score decreased from 4.8 ± 1.9 before treatment to 0.7 ± 1.0 after treatment (P < .001), the PRWE score decreased from 53.6 ± 24.9 to 10.3 ± 13.1 (P < .001), the QuickDASH score improved from 53.0 ± 16.6 to 20.0 ± 20.2 (P < .001), and the DASH-Sport score improved from 82.0 ± 16.1 to 38.1 ± 23.5 (P < .001). The climbing score improved from 2.5 ± 1.1 to 4.3 ± 1.0 points (P < .001). The patient-reported number of days with pain was negatively correlated with changes in the PRWE score (r = -0.351; P < .001), QuickDASH score (r = -0.316; P = .007), and climbing score (r = -0.264; P = .025) as well as the number of days without climbing (r = -0.266; P = .025). The number of days without climbing was positively correlated with changes in the PRWE score (r = 0.369; P < .001).

CONCLUSION

Wrist injuries in climbers constituted a diverse set of diagnoses. Ulnar-sided injuries were most common, and many patients had >1 diagnosis. Outcomes for all treatment methods (surgery and nonoperative care) were favorable, but approximately one-third of climbers had persistent wrist discomfort after treatment, underscoring the need for accurate diagnoses and acute and expert care.

Self-Reported Injuries in Indoor Gym-Based Rock Climbers: A Retrospective Study of Predictors of Prolonged Injury and Seeking Medical Care

INTRODUCTION

Indoor climbing injuries are often related to overuse, and climbers choose between self-management and seeing a medical practitioner. This study evaluated predictors of prolonged injury and seeking medical care for indoor climbing injuries.

METHODS

A convenience sample of adult climbers from 5 gyms in New York City was interviewed about injuries over the past 3 y, because of which they stopped climbing for at least a week or saw a medical practitioner.

RESULTS

In total, 122 of 284 (43%) participants had at least 1 injury, for a total of 158 injuries. Fifty (32%) were prolonged, lasting at least 12 wk. Predictors of prolonged injury included older age (odds ratio [OR], 2.28, per 10-y increase; 95% CI, 1.31-3.96), hours per week spent climbing (OR, 1.14, per 1-h increase; 95% CI, 1.06-1.24), climbing difficulty (OR, 2.19, per difficulty group increase; 95% CI, 1.31-3.66), and years of climbing experience (OR, 3.99, per 5-y increase; 95% CI, 1.61-9.84). Only 38% of injuries were seen by a medical practitioner. Predictors of seeking care included prolonged injury (OR, 3.04; 95% CI, 1.39-6.64) and rope climbing preference (OR, 1.98; 95% CI, 1.02-3.82). The most common theme for seeking care was serious pain or interference with climbing or daily activities.

CONCLUSIONS

Despite prolonged injuries being common, especially in older, more experienced, and higher-level climbers, only a third of climbers with injuries seek medical care. Outside of injuries causing minimal pain or limitation, those who self-managed reported receiving advice from other climbers or online research as a prominent reason for that choice.

Pectoralis Major Tendon Rupture While Bouldering

Pectoralis major tendon ruptures are rare injuries. We present a case of a pectoralis major tendon rupture incurred while bouldering that required surgical repair. The diagnosis of pectoralis major tendon rupture relies predominantly on clinical examination. Among athletes, outcomes after surgical repair are superior to those after nonoperative therapy in most cases of complete tendon rupture. Although infrequent, pectoralis major tendon ruptures can occur while climbing, and early recognition and expedited surgical treatment are paramount to maximize functional recovery.

A Guide to Indoor Rock Climbing Injuries

ABSTRACT

Rock climbing is an increasingly popular indoor sport with a sizable risk of overuse injuries. Yet, many medical practitioners have little familiarity with evaluating and treating climbing injuries because of the terminology, biomechanical demands, mechanisms of injury, and return to sport counseling needed, unique to the sport. This review seeks to educate practitioners on these aspects. Upper extremity injuries occur more frequently than lower extremity injuries, with finger injuries being most prevalent. Pulley injuries, consisting of rupture of the A2 or A4 annular pulleys are the most common type of injury. Other finger injuries include tenosynovitis of the flexor tendons, as well as lumbrical muscle tears. Elbow injuries occur frequently, with medial epicondylopathy being most common. Brachialis injuries are seldom seen outside of climbing. Lower-extremity injuries are typically more acute in nature, including ankle injuries from falls and knee injuries from strenuous climbing moves.

Characteristics of bouldering injuries based on 430 patients presented to an urban emergency department

INTRODUCTION

Bouldering is a climbing sport that has been attracting a greater number of recreational and professional athletes over recent decades, which has led to an increase in sport-related injuries. The aim of this study was to determine the characteristics and the types of acute injuries caused by bouldering. Further athlete-specific factors and covariates for the trauma types were investigated.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In this retrospective analysis, all patients presented to the level 1 trauma center at the hospital of the Technical University of Munich after an acute trauma related to bouldering were identified via the hospital documentation system. The period of observation was ten years, from 2010 until 2020. Epidemiological and injury-specific information as well as the initial treatment were registered. In a second step, the affected patients were invited to participate in an online survey in order to collect information about their skills, experience, and details about the trauma.

RESULTS

A total of 430 patients with 447 acute injuries were identified. There were 244 injuries among female and 203 injuries among male patients. The most common anatomical region affected was ankle (36.7%), knee (16.8%), elbow (12.3%), spine (7.2%) and shoulder (6.3%). The majority of 273 (61.1%) injuries were located at the lower extremities. The most frequent types of injury were sprains (53.0%), fractures (22.8%) or joint dislocations (11.9%). Surgical treatment was necessary for 89 (19.9%) patients. A return to bouldering was more likely in male patients 50 (75.8%) than in females 47 (59.5%) (p = 0.038). Subjectively, inexperienced boulderers were also less likely to return to the sport than advanced boulderers with greater experience (p = 0.001) CONCLUSION: The incidence of bouldering injuries is rising. Typical bouldering injuries could be identified and quantified at least for those patients who were presented to a hospital emergency department. Injuries in this setting do differ from the injury types known from rock climbing injuries as they are located on the lower extremity more often. Injuries of the fingers and hand, which are common climbing injuries, have been barely encountered in the emergency center.